Twill Fabrics Research Articles

Fibre fragment pollution: source directed intervention through design

This study analyses the difference in fibre fragment pollution generated during the laundering of woven and knit fabrics for clothing and the influence of fabric parameters on the amount of pollution released. 100% polyester single jersey knit and 2/2 twill woven fabrics were created and washed according to AATCC TM212-2021. Results indicated more tightly woven structures released over three times less pollution than looser knit structures, releasing 6.41 mg of fibre fragments per kg of woven fabric (mean ± 1.50 SD, n = 8) compared to 21.21 mg of fibre fragments per kg of knit fabric (mean ± 1.80 SD, n = 8). The first wash for both knit and woven fabrics shed significantly more fibre fragments than subsequent washes. By the fifth wash both fabrics released under a tenth of the amount of pollution released in the first wash. To mitigate fibre fragment pollution that is released by fabrics designed for clothing this work recommends designing out pollution using more tightly constructed fabrics. Furthermore, the implementation of technology in fabric and garment manufacturing processes (e.g. fibre catching devices) should be utilised specifically during first washes allowing pollution to be filtered from the wastewater to stem the flow of contaminants into the environment.

Unveiling the dynamics of seam performance: a regression analysis approach for predictive modeling

The performance of seams is crucial for the garment manufacturing industry's sustainability. This study delves into the factors impacting seam slippage, strength, and efficiency. By analyzing fabric specifications (weight and weave), machine settings (presser foot pressure and speed), and seam direction, the study uncovers their influence on seam properties. Samples of 100% cotton plain and twill fabrics, both of low (120 g/m2 to140 g/m2 ) and high (275 g/m2 to320 g/m2) weights, were chosen. Lock stitch type (301) and superimposed seam class were employed, with samples stitched in both weft and warp directions using the same stitch type, seam class, and substantial core spun sewing thread. An experimental design was created using variable parameters (fabric weight, weave, machine speed, and presser foot pressure), resulting in a 23 × 32 regression analysis. This design facilitated the development of 72 stitched samples. The regression analysis yielded an optimized solution, with square regressions indicating significant seam strength (85%) and efficiency (93%). In summary, this research provides insights into optimizing seam performance by understanding the interplay of fabric, machine, and stitching parameters, crucial for enhancing the quality and durability of garment seams.

Modelling Surface Roughness of 3/1 Twill Fabric Using Weft Yarn Count and Weft Thread Density

The surface roughness of fabric is one of the fabric properties that is used to evaluate the sensorial comfort of clothes. However, its objective evaluation requires sophisticated and expensive testing instruments and skilled testing expertise. Developing a predictive model is therefore an alternative approach to overcome such limitations. This study investigated a regression model to predict the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabric using weft yarn count and weft thread density. Nine samples were produced by varying the weft yarn count and weft thread density at three different levels, while their surface roughness was determined using a Kawabata instrument (KES-FB4) under standard testing conditions. A two-factor predictive model equation was developed using design expert software. Based on the results and findings, the effects of count and density on the roughness of 3/1 twill fabric were found to be statistically significant for the developed model at a confidence interval of 95%. The model was tested by correlating the measured and predicted surface roughness values of 100% cotton 3/1 twill fabric. The results of the model test indicate a significant correlation (R2 = 0.9644) between the measured and predicted surface roughness values of 3/1 twill fabric, with a 95% confidence interval. Model validation was performed, and the study showed that the measured and predicted values of the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabric have a 0.828 coefficient of determination (R2). This indicates that the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabric can be predicted well by weft yarn count and weft thread density. This model can be thus used in textile industries and by research institutes for predicting the surface roughness of 3/1 twill fabrics in the new product development process.

Influence of fabric structures and temperature on the mechanical properties of quartz braids

Herein, quartz fiber braids with different structures (plain, twill, satin, broken twill) were woven to explore the influence of structures on the performance of fabrics. The influences of high temperature and structure on the mechanical properties of quartz fiber braids were investigated in detail. As the temperature increased to 1000°C, the mechanical properties of quartz fiber decreased by around 90% due to its crystallization. Among the different fabric structures tested, quartz fabrics with satin and broken twill structures possessed good tensile properties (400 MPa) at room temperature. However, as the temperature and duration of heat treatment increased, the tensile performance of broken twill weave fabrics decreased by 50 MPa. In summary, the study demonstrates that quartz fibers and their fabrics possess significant potential for applications in high temperature environments, with the ability to withstand elevated temperatures for short durations, thereby enhancing their performance and extending their range of applications.

Designing out microplastic pollution released from textiles and apparel during laundering

Abstract The washing of synthetic materials has been named as the largest contributor of microplastic pollution to our oceans. With the consumption of petrochemical-based synthetic materials expected to grow, due to an increased demand, the release of microplastic fibres to our environments is expected to also accelerate. To combat microplastic fibre release, this study explores source-directed interventions within the design and manufacturing process of textiles to reduce the amount of pollution released from the surface and the edges of the fabric structure. Using standardised wash tests and polyester fabric swatches that were created in-house with systematic structural adjustments, single jersey knit fabrics were shown to release over three times more microplastic pollution than twill woven fabric. This illustrates that increasing the tightness of a fabric could be implemented within the design of fabrics for environmental benefits. Additionally, the laser cutting technique reduced microplastic fibres released by over a third compared to scissor cutting and overlock serging, showing that the edge of the fabric is a significant source of microplastic pollution released during laundering. This research highlights the adaptable and innovative eco-design approaches to clothing production which is necessary to help the sector reach international sustainability targets and regulations.

A viscoelastic-plastic model for the temperature-dependent creep and recovery behavior during dry fiber fabric compaction

The preforming process of dry fiber fabric usually involves compaction under constant pressure and specific temperature during fiber-reinforced composite manufacturing. The fabric exhibits time- and temperature-dependent considerable permanent deformation and creep/recovery behavior in compaction. A better understanding of these phenomena, combined with the ability to predict the behavior, will contribute to better control of fiber volume fraction and material composition. This study presented a universal viscoelastic-plastic model to represent the fabric’s visco-effect in compression and recovery stages. The proposed model consisted of a modified Burges element for time-dependent deformation and a plastic element for permanent deformation that occurs in all cases. It used only one set of equations and one set of parameters to characterize the cyclic loading/unloading and the compaction and relaxation phases. It could consider the material densification effect observed experimentally. The model was validated against experimental data for unidirectional (UD), plain woven, and twill woven fabrics. A reasonable match between experiments and prediction was achieved under different compression scenarios.

Application of Profilometric Measurements in an Assessment of Woven Fabrics Surface Geometry

ABSTRACT The surface roughness of the textile materials is one of the crucial features influencing the appearance and functionality of fabrics and products made of them. The surface roughness of textile materials can be measured using the contact or non-contact methods. In the presented work, the non-contact method using the MicroSpy® Profile profilometer was applied to assess the quality of surface of the cotton woven fabrics of plain and 3/1S twill weave. Determination of surface geometry parameters and functions was done using the Mark III software according to the DIN EN ISO 4287 standard. Results showed that the twill woven fabric is characterized by greater roughness than the plain woven fabric. The profiles created along the warp and weft have different shapes dependably on fabric weave. The autocorrelation function reflects the weave pattern of the woven fabrics. Performed investigations confirmed that the non-contact method of measurement of fabric surface geometry by means of the profilometer provides very detailed and complex data about the fabrics’ surface quality.

Enhancement of low and medium frequency sound absorption using fabrics and air gaps

Porous acoustic materials are among the most frequently employed acoustic materials. This paper evaluates the acoustic performance of porous materials concerning the addition of how the fabric layout and addition of an air gap influence sound absorption coefficient at low and medium frequencies. The acoustic measurements were performed on multilayers of woven fabrics formed from different weave structures and nonwoven fabrics using an impedance tube. The result indicates that due to the different geometrical structures of woven fabric and the layout designs of multilayer fabrics, significant improvements were observed in sound absorption performance at the frequency range from 160 Hz to 3150 Hz. The air gap with a multilayer of porous material enhanced low to medium-frequency sound absorption. Furthermore, the physical fabric properties analysis of porosity using X-ray tomography indicates that the surface of a single layer of plain fabric structures is more porous than that of sateen, rib, and twill woven fabrics. The correlation between the air permeability and sound absorption coefficient (α) results indicates an inverse relationship for multilayer porous fabrics.

Physical and Mechanical Characterizations of Hybrid Twill Fabrics Carbon/Glass and Carbon/Aramid

Physical and Mechanical Characterizations of Hybrid Twill Fabrics Carbon/Glass and Carbon/Aramid

Failure analysis of high-performance woven fabrics during quasistatic stabbing

In recent years, stab protection is getting increasing attention from the researchers and practitioners. Most of the stab protective vests are made of high-performance fibre based woven fabrics. However, unlike ballistic protection, the roles of fibre material, fabric structure, and test parameters on the failure mechanism during stabbing are still not well-understood. This study systematically examines the effects of fibre type, weave architecture and stabbing direction on the quasistatic stab resistance of woven fabrics. P-aramid (Kevlar®), aromatic polyester (Vectran®), and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (Spectra®) fibres were used to weave plain, 3/1 twill, and 2/2 twill fabrics of same areal density. All the fabrics were tested in warp, weft and bias directions using a P1 knife (NIJ 0115.0 standard). Among the fibres, Spectra® demonstrated the highest stab resistance followed by Vectran®. Plain woven fabric showed higher stab resistance than the other two weaves in bias direction. For all weaves, stab resistance was also found to be higher in bias direction followed by weft and warp. Statistical analysis (three-way ANOVA) revealed that fibre type, weave architecture and stabbing direction have significant roles (p < 0.05) in determining the stab resistance of woven fabrics. The outcome of this research will be useful for designing stab resistant vest using high-performance woven fabrics.

Effects of ZnO nanowire and silica coatings on the inter-yarn friction and ballistic properties of Kevlar fabrics

This paper focused on improving the ballistic performance of plain weave (PW) and twill weave (TW) Kevlar fabrics without affecting the weight. Single layers of fabrics were subjected to two different surface coatings, one with ZnO nanowires (ZnO NW) and other with Silica nanoparticles. Tensile, inter-yarn friction and ballistic properties of bare and surface coated fabrics were evaluated and compared with each other. All types of PW fabrics were found to have superior tensile strain energy, inter-yarn friction and ballistic energy absorption than corresponding TW fabrics. Both ZnO NW and Silica coatings were found to significantly improve the strain energy, inter-yarn friction and ballistic energy absorption of fabrics with only less than 8% increase in the areal density of the fabrics. Among the two surface treatments, Silica coating was found to provide maximum improvement in properties. It increased the strain energy, yarn pull-out energy and ballistic energy absorption in PW fabrics by 67%, 694% and at least 240%, respectively. Also, it increased the strain energy, yarn pull-out energy and ballistic energy absorption in TW fabrics by 42%, 1350% and 387%, respectively. The work demonstrated promising ways of improving the ballistic performance of Kevlar fabrics.

Antifouling nanofiltration membrane atop nanofibrous scaffold with periodical diagonal microprotrusion

Tuning the surface structure and roughness of selective layer is effective but a challenge to enhance the permeance and antifouling performance of nanofiltration membrane without sacrificing selectivity. In this work, we developed a novel method to engineer an aromatic polyamides (PA) selective layer atop nanofibrous scaffold with periodical diagonal microprotrusion, which inherits from the morphology of twill fabric. The hydrophilic nanofiber layer presents a compact feature (pore size: 100–300 nm) and high conformality towards the fabric support with twill morphology beneficial to the IP process. The generated PA nanofiltration membrane presented a hierarchical surface structure involving periodical diagonal microprotrusion (around 85 μm cell distance) and ridge-valley structure (∼100 nm). The resultant membrane exhibited not only a high permeance of 31.7 L m−2 h−1 bar−1 and a rejection rate of 97.5% to Na2SO4 solution, but also ameliorated antifouling performance with a high flux recovery rate larger than 96.5% in five filtration-washing tests. This is attributed to the synergistic effects between highly porous nanofiber scaffold and the eddy self-cleaning function derived from periodical diagonal microprotrusion of the fabric supported by the numerical simulation study. This work presents the superiority in designing high permeable membranes with excellent antifouling performance for advanced nanofiltration application.

Fire retardant properties enhancement of cotton twill fabric using pumpkin (Cucurbita maxima) extract

Health hazards and environmental pollution are major concerns in present world. So, it is high time to think about ecofriendly and sustainable production. In this study, pumpkin juice has been used as an ecofriendly flame retardant finish to enhance the functionality of cotton twill fabric. The pumpkin juice extracted from the fresh pumpkin without any chemicals. The cotton fabric was treated with pumpkin juice in exhaust method. The treated and untreated samples were characterized by TGA, FTIR, SEM, and EDX. The flame-retardant property of the samples were evaluated based on the LOI and vertical flame tester. The result demonstrated that the treated samples exhibited high fire-retardant properties after being finished with pumpkin juice. The LOI value of the treated samples increased to 29 from 19 after treatment. The main reason behind the increased flammability is the dehydration of pumpkin juice-treated fabric which was clarified from the TG analysis. Moreover, the FTIR, SEM, and EDX report ensured the presence of bound and unbound water molecules, different salt, and several atoms in the samples treated with pumpkin juice that enhanced the protection against the spreading of the fire and thus improved fire-retardant properties of the treated samples.

Load extension behavior of spun sewing threads on seam slippage

The present research is focused to develop the relationship between the seam slippage and mechanical properties of sewn fabric by considering the spun thread and fabric configuration in the stitched assembly. Plain and twill weave fabric was used for the sample development stitch with the spun thread while the sewing machine setting was kept constant to produce a balanced seam. Different stitched samples are prepared in warp and weft direction for investigation by considering superimposed, flat, and bound seam classes with multi-thread chain, lock, and cover stitches. Experiment findings highlight the optimum load of seam slippage in N at 6 mm seam opening at stitched assembly by employing mentioned seam classes and stitch types. The results showed that 189.97 N maximum load was found at 6 mm seam opening for plain weave fabric in warp direction at flat seam sample with a lock stitched while in weft direction 80.65 N minimum load at the bound seam with multi-thread chain stitch. For twill weave fabric 94.72 N minimum slippage load at a 6 mm seam opening was observed in the weft direction at the bound seam with multi-thread chain stitch while in the warp direction maximum slippage load of 200 N was reported at the superimposed, flat and bound seam with multi-thread chain, lock and cover stitches. Established findings have a significant coefficient of determination (R2 0.90) between sewing thread extension and seam slippage load at 6 mm seam opening in both directions. The present research provides the guidelines to select the spun sewing thread which was possessed the minimum extension (%) against the respective load (N) to overcome the seam slippage in the stitched garment.

Computer Geometric Modeling Approach with Filament Assembly Model for 2 × 1 and 3 × 1 Twill Woven Fabric Structures

Abstract A new computer geometric modeling approach for 2 × 1 and 3 × 1 twill woven fabric structures is proposed. The precise geometrical description is presented by taking the skewness property into account. In the 2 × 1 and 3 × 1 twill weaves, the twill fabrics are formed of asymmetric floatings in which the length of floating sections was not equal on both surfaces and therefore the equilibrium condition was different from symmetric floatings. The proposed algorithm has three main parts: the first part describes the two-dimensional model of yarn cross-section for twill woven fabric structure, the second part consists of a modeling method for a three-dimensional model in warp/weft yarn, and the third part contains the CAD model. Examples of this approach are demonstrated and compared with a single line of yarn path model and the filament assemble model that excludes the skewness property. The model simulated in this study can improve the visual simulation of the real twill woven fabric and also this geometric model necessary as an input to many computational models for the prediction of the properties of the fabrics.

Quasi-static modes I, II and mixed modes I/II fracture toughness of two laminate composites: Part II — micro-computerized tomography and numerical simulations

In Part I of this paper, quasi-static fracture toughness tests were reported which were carried out on two carbon fiber reinforced polymer materials. One laminate was unidirectional and the second was composed of plies fabricated from a twill fabric. In Part II, which is presented here, micro-computerized tomography was performed providing a relationship between the observed experimental behavior and the micromechanical structure of the materials. This was carried out for the double cantilever beam (DCB), mixed mode bending (MMB) and end-notched flexure (ENF) specimens. Load–displacement curves were simulated numerically by means of a cohesive zone model and the finite element method to obtain better insight into the failure mechanisms observed for DCB and ENF specimens.

Effect of Geometric Arrangement on Mechanical Properties of 2D Woven Auxetic Fabrics

Textiles-fibres, yarns and fabrics are omnipresent in our daily lives, with unique mechanical properties that fit the design specifications for the tasks for which they are designed. The development of yarns and fabrics with negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) is an area of current research interest due to their potential for use in high performance textiles (e.g., military, sports, etc.). The unique braiding technology of interlacement for preparation of braided helically wrapped yarns with NPR effect with later development of auxetic woven fabric made it possible to avoid the slippage of the wrapped component from the core. The applied geometrical configuration and NPR behaviour of the braided helical yarn structure with seven different angles comprising of monofilament elastomeric polyurethane (PU) core with two wrap materials that include multifilament ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) fibres were investigated and analysed. The mechanically stable 2D woven textile auxetic fabrics (AF) with various weave patterns such as 2/2 matt and 3/1 twill were developed from the auxetic yarn with PU elastomer core having maximum NPR effect of −1.70 using lower wrapped angle of 9° to study and compare their mechanical responses. The auxetic yarn was used in weft direction and multifilament UHMWPE yarn in warp direction, using semi-automatic loom. Auxeticity of AF was analysed and its various mechanical properties such tensile strength, impact energy absorption, in-plane, and out-of-plane auxeticity, and puncture resistance were studied. Higher energy absorption of 84 Nm for matt fabric was seen compared to twill fabric having an energy of 65 Nm. The puncture resistance capability of matt fabric was better than twill fabric. While twill fabric exhibited better auxetic effect in both in-plane and out-of-plane mode compared to matt fabric. In short, both the twill and matt design AF’s showed unique characteristics which are beneficial in making various protective textiles such as protective helmets, bullet proof shields, cut resistance gloves, blast resistant curtains, and puncture tolerant elastomeric composites.

Quasi-static modes I, II and mixed modes I/II fracture toughness of two laminate composites: Part I — Testing

In Part I of this study, fracture toughness tests were carried out in modes I, II and mixed modes I/II on two laminate composites. Both composites contain carbon fibers in an epoxy matrix. One laminate is unidirectional and the second is composed of plies fabricated from a twill fabric. The tests were carried out using double cantilever beam, end-notched flexure and mixed mode bending specimens according to ASTM and ISO standards. This is an extensive and complete study of the in-plane, quasi-static fracture toughness (both initiation and resistance) of two material systems. In Part II of this study, micro-computerized tomography carried out on some of the specimens is reported. On the basis of these images, the experimental behavior was related to the micromechanical structure of the materials. In addition, load–displacement curves were simulated numerically by means of a cohesive zone model and the finite element method to gain better insight into the failure behavior observed.

Fatigue damage evolution in woven composites with different architectures

The influence of the reinforcement architecture on the fatigue behaviour of woven composites is evaluated. Glass/epoxy laminates with stacking sequence UD-woven-UD were produced with the woven layer at 0/90° and ± 45°. Plain and twill fabrics with the same matrix and fibres were used. The damage evolution was monitored during tension-tension fatigue tests, leading to a comparison between laminates based on life to crack initiation, crack growth and crack density evolution. The fatigue behaviour in terms of life to crack initiation was found to be predicted through local stresses in the matrix of the bundles, calculated using a recent multi-scale model.

Hygienic Assessment of Personal Protective Equipment against Biological Hazards

Introduction: The professional use of personal protective equipment (PPE) eliminates occupational exposure of personnel to pathogens that cause infectious diseases, including COVID-19. Apart from the risk of exposure to biological hazards, healthcare workers are at risk of impaired work performance and work-related diseases posed by adverse health effects of PPE itself. Objective: To make a physiological and hygienic assessment of personal protective equipment against biological hazards used by healthcare professionals. Materials and methods: We evaluated the thermal state of the body in 13 volunteers under simulated conditions of the Tabai temperature and humidity chamber (Japan). The study design included a physiological and hygienic assessment of four variants of protective suits, all compliant with recommendations of the Federal Service for Surveillance on Consumer Rights Protection and Human Wellbeing (Rospotrebnadzor) for use when working with microorganisms of risk groups I and II. We studied the physiological response of the thermoregulatory system to heat exposures in terms of indicators characterizing the temperature of the “core”, the temperature of the “shell”, and their integral indicators (weighted mean skin and body temperatures). Changes in the fluid and electrolyte metabolism and the functional state of the cardiorespiratory system were assessed based on objective (sweat and heart rates) and subjective (heat sensation) indicators. Results: At the air temperatures of 25 and 30 °C, the maximum thermal exposure was registered in the volunteers wearing coveralls made of nonwoven material of the Tyvek type (China). A suit made of polyester fabric with a polyurethane membrane coating (Russia) had a less pronounced effect on the thermal state of the body. The minimum core and shell temperatures were noted for the suits made of polymer-viscose dustproof, water-repellent twill weave fabric (Russia) and Barrier 2X fabric (Russia). Conclusion: The excess of established values of the thermal state of the body during medium work was observed for all types of the studied suits both in permissible (25 °C) and harmful (30 °C) microclimate conditions. To prevent ill-being of medical personnel, it is necessary to schedule work taking into account the type of PPE used, the intensity of physical activity, and indoor microclimate parameters.