Melanin Transfer Research Articles

Enhanced skin benefits of EGCG loaded in nonapeptide-1-conjugated mesoporous silica nanoparticles to reverse skin photoaging

Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG), a catechin present in green tea, has been studied extensively for its potential as a cosmetic ingredient due to its various biological properties. However, the low stability and bioavailability of EGCG have hindered its effective utilization in cosmetic applications. This study, to improve the stability and bioavailability of EGCG for reversing skin photo-aging, nonapeptide-1-conjugated mesoporous silica nanoparticles (EGCG@NP-MSN) were fabricated to load EGCG. MSNs can regulate the EGCG release and provide ultraviolet light (UV) protection to possess excellent photostability. Nonapeptide-1 exhibits melanin transfer interference properties and reduces the melanin content in treated skin areas. In vitro and in vivo results confirmed that the EGCG-loaded MSNs retained antioxidant properties, effectively scavenged the melanin and significantly reduced the deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage in skin cells exposed to UV irradiation. The melanin inhibition rate is 5.22 times and the tyrosinase inhibition rate is 1.57 times that of free EGCG. The utilization of this innovative platform offers the potential for enhanced stability, controlled release, and targeted action of EGCG, thereby providing significant advantages for skin application.This delivery system combines the advantages of antioxidant, anti-aging, and anti-UV radiation properties, paving the way for the cosmetics development with improved efficacy and better performance in promoting skin health and appearance.

Establishment of an invitro cell coculture model for investigating the whitening mechanism of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil.

In vitro single-cell experiments may yield inconsistent results compared to clinical trials. To enhance the reliability of cosmetic active ingredient screening, a coculture model of B16F10-HaCaT cells was established invitro based on the structural characteristics of human skin, thereby improving the credibility of experimental outcomes. Currently, most cosmetic whitening additives primarily target simple efficacy goals such as inhibiting tyrosinase activity or melanin transfer. Therefore, investigating novel and efficient whitening additives has become a prominent research focus. The aim is to establish an invitro cell coculture model for more reliable experimental results and investigate the mechanism by which Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil inhibits melanin production and transfer. The impact of different concentrations of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on cocultured cell proliferation rate was assessed using cck8 assay. Tyrosinase inhibition ability in cocultured cells was tested using levodopa as a substrate. Melanin production inhibition ability in coculture cells was evaluated by lysing cells with sodium hydroxide. The effect of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on dendrite-related gene expression levels was examined through qPCR analysis. Additionally, Western blotting was employed to study the effect of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on dendrite-related protein expression levels. Different concentrations of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil did not affect the proliferation activity of cocultured cells. A specific concentration of α-MSH increased cell tyrosinase activity, cellular melanin content, as well as Rac1, Cdc42, and PAR-2 gene and protein expression related to dendritic formation. Treatment with a certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil resulted in decreased tyrosinase activity and melanin content in cells along with downregulated expression levels of Rac1, Cdc42, and PAR-2 genes and proteins associated with dendritic formation. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil at specific concentrations exhibits the ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity, decrease melanin content, and possesses the potential to impede melanin transfer.

P39 Using single-cell transcriptomics to investigate the potential role of the human hair follicle dermal papilla in controlling hair fibre pigmentation

Abstract Introduction and aims The human dermal papilla (DP) is a population of cells located at the base of the hair follicle, which signals to surrounding matrix cells facilitating their incorporation into the layers of the hair fibre and the hair follicle. The DP controls the process of hair follicle induction, reflecting its critical role in orchestrating processes integral in hair growth. We hypothesize that distinct functional subgroups exist within the structure, which would mean that there are different types of DP cells within each follicle. Methods To begin testing this, we reanalysed the single-cell RNA sequencing (RNA-Seq) dataset of the human anagen hair follicle used in the 2022 study by Shim et al. To expand on this, we are now generating single-cell RNA-Seq datasets of patient-matched pigmented and nonpigmented hair follicles (n = 4 patients). These datasets will be used to explore heterogeneity in the human DP, and to investigate which subpopulations are potentially changed in the case of pigmentation loss. This will allow us to explore a potentially undiscovered role of the DP in controlling hair fibre pigmentation. Results We found four distinct subpopulations in the DP with statistically significant marker genes in the Shim dataset. This confirms transcriptional heterogeneity in the human DP, hinting at clusters of DP cells with specialized functions within each hair follicle. One subcluster, which expressed S100B, endothelin-3 and bone morphogenetic protein (BMP)4, was of particular interest and gene ontology analysis of the genes in this cluster revealed terms associated with skeletal development and BMP signalling. We hypothesize that this DP cluster regulates melanin transfer from bulbar melanocytes to neighbouring keratinocytes, owing to the known involvement of the mentioned genes in both melanogenesis and melanin transfer. Conclusions The human DP is a heterogeneic structure, with a potentially unexplored role in controlling hair fibre pigmentation.

Extracellular vesicles released by keratinocytes regulate melanosome maturation, melanocyte dendricity, and pigment transfer

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) facilitate the transfer of proteins, lipids, and genetic material between cells and are recognized as an additional mechanism for sustaining intercellular communication. In the epidermis, the communication between melanocytes and keratinocytes is tightly regulated to warrant skin pigmentation. Melanocytes synthesize the melanin pigment in melanosomes that are transported along the dendrites prior to the transfer of melanin pigment to keratinocytes. EVs secreted by keratinocytes modulate pigmentation in melanocytes [(A. Lo Cicero et al., Nat. Commun. 6, 7506 (2015)]. However, whether EVs secreted by keratinocytes contribute to additional processes essential for melanocyte functions remains elusive. Here, we show that keratinocyte EVs enhance the ability of melanocytes to generate dendrites and mature melanosomes and promote their efficient transfer. Further, keratinocyte EVs carrying Rac1 induce important morphological changes, promote dendrite outgrowth, and potentiate melanin transfer to keratinocytes. Hence, in addition to modulating pigmentation, keratinocytes exploit EVs to control melanocyte plasticity and transfer capacity. These data demonstrate that keratinocyte-derived EVs, by regulating melanocyte functions, are major contributors to cutaneous pigmentation and expand our understanding of the mechanism underlying skin pigmentation via a paracrine EV-mediated communication.

Loss of Dicer in Newborn Melanocytes Leads to Premature Hair Graying and Changes in Integrin Expression

Premature hair graying occurs owing to the depletion of melanocyte stem cells in the hair follicle, which can be accelerated by stress caused by genetic or environmental factors. However, the connection between stress and melanocyte stem cell loss is not fully understood. MicroRNAs are molecules that control gene expression by regulating mRNA stability and translation and are produced by the enzyme Dicer, which is repressed under stress. In this study, using 2 mouse genetic models and human and mouse cell lines, we found that the inactivation of Dicer in melanocytes leads to misplacement of these cells within the hair follicle, resulting in a lack of melanin transfer to keratinocytes in the growing hair and the exhaustion of the melanocyte stem cell pool. We also show that miR-92b, which regulates ItgaV mRNA and protein levels, plays a role in altering melanocyte migration. Overall, our findings suggest that the Dicer-miR92b-ItgaV pathway serves as a major signaling pathway linking stress to premature hair greying.

Functional and long-lived melanocytes from human pluripotent stem cells with transient ectopic expression of JMJD3

BackgroundMelanocytes are an essential part of the epidermis, and their regeneration has received much attention because propagation of human adult melanocytes in vitro is too slow for clinical use. Differentiation from human pluripotent stem cells to melanocytes has been reported, but the protocols to produce them require multiple and complex differentiation steps.MethodWe differentiated human embryonic stem cells (hESCs) that transiently express JMJD3 to pigmented cells. We investigated whether the pigmented cells have melanocytic characteristics and functions by qRT-PCR, immunocytochemical analysis and flow cytometry. We also investigated their biocompatibility by injecting the cells into immunodeficient mice for clinical use.ResultWe successfully differentiated and established a pure culture of melanocytes. The melanocytes maintained their growth rate for a long time, approximately 200 days, and were functional. They exhibited melanogenesis and transfer of melanin to peripheral keratinocytes. Moreover, melanocytes simulated the developmental processes from melanoblasts to melanocytes. The melanocytes had high engraftability and biocompatibility in the immunodeficient mice.ConclusionThe robust generation of functional and long-lived melanocytes are key to developing clinical applications for the treatment of pigmentary skin disorders.

Melanin's Journey from Melanocytes to Keratinocytes: Uncovering the Molecular Mechanisms of Melanin Transfer and Processing.

Skin pigmentation ensures efficient photoprotection and relies on the pigment melanin, which is produced by epidermal melanocytes and transferred to surrounding keratinocytes. While the molecular mechanisms of melanin synthesis and transport in melanocytes are now well characterized, much less is known about melanin transfer and processing within keratinocytes. Over the past few decades, distinct models have been proposed to explain how melanin transfer occurs at the cellular and molecular levels. However, this remains a debated topic, as up to four different models have been proposed, with evidence presented supporting each. Here, we review the current knowledge on the regulation of melanin exocytosis, internalization, processing, and polarization. Regarding the different transfer models, we discuss how these might co-exist to regulate skin pigmentation under different conditions, i.e., constitutive and facultative skin pigmentation or physiological and pathological conditions. Moreover, we discuss recent evidence that sheds light on the regulation of melanin exocytosis by melanocytes and internalization by keratinocytes, as well as how melanin is stored within these cells in a compartment that we propose be named the melanokerasome. Finally, we review the state of the art on the molecular mechanisms that lead to melanokerasome positioning above the nuclei of keratinocytes, forming supranuclear caps that shield the nuclear DNA from UV radiation. Thus, we provide a comprehensive overview of the current knowledge on the molecular mechanisms regulating skin pigmentation, from melanin exocytosis by melanocytes and internalization by keratinocytes to processing and polarization within keratinocytes. A better knowledge of these molecular mechanisms will clarify long-lasting questions in the field that are crucial for the understanding of skin pigmentation and can shed light on fundamental aspects of organelle biology. Ultimately, this knowledge can lead to novel therapeutic strategies to treat hypo- or hyper-pigmentation disorders, which have a high socio-economic burden on patients and healthcare systems worldwide, as well as cosmetic applications.

Effect of polymorphisms in the 5’-flanking sequence of MC1R on feather color in Taihang chickens

MC1R plays an important role in the regulation of the formation, transfer, and deposition of melanin in animals and is important for determining coat color. Many studies have reported on single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) in the coding sequence of MC1R. However, few studies have investigated the polymorphisms in the 5’-flanking sequence of MC1R. In this study, we sequenced 2000 bp of the 5’-flanking sequence of MC1R in 300 Taihang chickens with brown feathers (MTH) and 300 Taihang chickens with black feathers (HTH). The sequencing results showed that 4 SNPs (MC1R g.18838722 G > C, g.18838624 T > C, g.18838694 G > A, and g.18838624 C > T) were located in the 5’-flanking sequence of MC1R between the MTH and HTH groups. Association analysis showed that there was a significant correlation between the 4 SNPs and feather color in Taihang chickens. The correlation between MC1R g.18838624 T >C and feather color of Taihang chicken was 100%, of which the CC (E1) genotype is MTH and the TT (E2) genotype is HTH. Furthermore, there was a significant correlation between MC1R g.18838624 T > C and egg production at 302 d. E1 (184.14 ± 0.674) was significantly higher than that in E2 (181.75 ± 0.577) (P < 0.05). Luciferase reporter assays were used to detect the transcriptional activity of MC1R with different SNP genotypes. The results showed that the luciferase activity of E2 was significantly higher than that of E1 (P < 0.05). In addition, transcription factor-binding site predictions showed that E2 creates a new binding site for ZEB1. RT‒qPCR results revealed that the expression of MC1R in E2 was significantly lower than that in E1 (P < 0.05), and the expression of ZEB1 in E2 was significantly higher than that in E1 (P < 0.05). Overexpression and shRNA experiments demonstrated that ZEB1 regulates the expression of MC1R in DF1 cells. ZEB1 has a negative regulatory effect on the transcriptional activity of MC1R; it inhibits the expression of MC1R and affects the feather color of Taihang chickens. This study provides new insight into the molecular mechanism of feather color formation and the transcriptional regulation of MC1R in Taihang chickens.

Melanin accumulation in dermal stem cells deteriorates their exosome-mediated skin basement membrane construction in solar lentigo.

Solar lentigo (SL) is a hyperpigmented macule that occurs in sun-exposed areas and is characterized by the accumulation of melanin pigment in the epidermis. On the contrary, melanin-incorporated macrophages have also been identified in the dermis, which is thought to be caused by melanin transfer due to disruption of the basement membrane, but the detailed mechanism remains unclear. In this study, we analysed SL lesions by pathological methods and examined the mechanism of melanin accumulation in the dermis using cultured skin models in vitro. First, we observed a significant decrease in type IV collagen (COL4), a major component of the basement membrane, in SL lesions. The basement membrane is known to be formed by the interaction of keratinocytes and dermal cells. Therefore, we constructed skin models containing fibroblasts or dermal stem cells and examined their effects on basement membrane formation. The results showed a markedly enhanced production of COL4 mediated by dermal stem cell-derived exosomes. The analysis of melanin localization in the SL dermis revealed that CD163-positive macrophages and CD271-positive dermal stem cells both took up melanin pigment. Exosomes of dermal stem cells incorporating melanosomes were less effective in promoting COL4 expression. These findings suggest that while the promotion of COL4 production in keratinocytes by dermal stem cell-derived exosomes is important for maintaining basement membrane homeostasis, this mechanism is disrupted in SL lesions, leading to chronic melanin accumulation in the dermis.

Dual Antimelanogenic Effect of Nicotinamide-Stabilized Phloretin Nanocrystals in Larval Zebrafish.

Melanin is a kind of dark insoluble pigment that can cause pigmentation and free-radical clearance, inducing melasma, freckles, and chloasma, affecting the quality of life of patients. Due to poor water solubility and low safety, the absorption of poorly water-soluble drugs is limited by the hinderance of a skin barrier. Therefore, it is necessary to develop new, safe, and highly efficient drugs to improve their transdermal absorption efficiency and thus to inhibit the production of melanin. To address these issues, we developed a new nicotinamide (NIC)-stabilized phloretin nanocrystals (PHL-NCs). First, NC technology significantly increased the solubility of PHL. The in vitro release results indicated that at 6 h, the dissolution of the PHL-NIC-NCs was 101.39% ± 2.40% and of the PHL-NCs was 84.92% ± 4.30%, while that of the physical mixture of the two drugs was only 64.43% ± 0.02%. Second, NIC acted not only as a stabilizer to enlarge the storage time of PHL-NIC-NCs (improved to 10-day in vitro stability) but also as a melanin transfer inhibitor to inhibit melanin production. Finally, we verified the melanin inhibition effect of PHL-NIC-NCs evaluated by the zebrafish model. It showed that 0.38 mM/L PHL-NIC-NCs have a lower tyrosinase activity at 62.97% ± 0.52% and have less melanin at 36.57% ± 0.44%. The inhibition effect of PHL-NCs and PHL-NIC-NCs was stronger compared to the positive control arbutin. In conclusion, the combination of NIC and PHL achieves better inhibition of tyrosinase and inhibition of melanin production through synergism. This will provide a direction to the subsequent development of melanin-inhibiting drugs and the combined use of pharmaceutical agents.

RAB3A Regulates Melanin Exocytosis and Transfer Induced by Keratinocyte-Conditioned Medium

Skin pigmentation is imparted by melanin and is crucial for photoprotection against UVR. Melanin is synthesized and packaged into melanosomes within melanocytes and is then transferred to keratinocytes (KCs). Although the molecular players involved in melanogenesis have been extensively studied, those underlying melanin transfer remain unclear. Previously, our group proposed that coupled exocytosis/phagocytosis is the predominant mechanism of melanin transfer in human skin and showed an essential role for RAB11B and the exocyst tethering complex in this process. In this study, we show that soluble factors present in KC-conditioned medium stimulate melanin exocytosis from melanocytes and transfer to KCs. Moreover, we found that these factors are released by differentiated KCs but not by basal layer KCs. Furthermore, we found that RAB3A regulates melanin exocytosis and transfer stimulated by KC-conditioned medium. Indeed, KC-conditioned medium enhances the recruitment of RAB3A to melanosomes in melanocyte dendrites. Therefore, our results suggest the existence of two distinct routes of melanin exocytosis: a basal route controlled by RAB11B and a RAB3A-dependent route, stimulated by KC-conditioned medium. Thus, this study provides evidence that soluble factors released by differentiated KCs control skin pigmentation by promoting the accumulation of RAB3A-positive melanosomes in melanocyte dendrites and their release and subsequent transfer to KCs.

Melanocore uptake by keratinocytes occurs through phagocytosis and involves protease-activated receptor-2 internalization.

In the skin epidermis, melanin is produced and stored within melanosomes in melanocytes, and then transferred to keratinocytes. Different models have been proposed to explain the melanin transfer mechanism, which differ essentially in how melanin is transferred—either in a membrane‐bound melanosome or as a melanosome core, that is, melanocore. Here, we investigated the endocytic route followed by melanocores and melanosomes during internalization by keratinocytes, by comparing the uptake of melanocores isolated from the supernatant of melanocyte cultures, with melanosomes isolated from melanocytes. We show that inhibition of actin dynamics impairs the uptake of both melanocores and melanosomes. Moreover, depletion of critical proteins involved in actin‐dependent uptake mechanisms, namely Rac1, CtBP1/BARS, Cdc42 or RhoA, together with inhibition of Rac1‐dependent signaling pathways or macropinocytosis suggest that melanocores are internalized by phagocytosis, whereas melanosomes are internalized by macropinocytosis. Interestingly, we found that Rac1, Cdc42 and RhoA are differently activated by melanocore or melanosome stimulation, supporting the existence of two distinct routes of melanin internalization. Furthermore, we show that melanocore uptake induces protease‐activated receptor‐2 (PAR‐2) internalization by keratinocytes to a higher extent than melanosomes. Because skin pigmentation was shown to be regulated by PAR‐2 activation, our results further support the melanocore‐based mechanism of melanin transfer and further refine this model, which can now be described as coupled melanocore exo/phagocytosis.

Reconstructed human pigmented skin/epidermis models achieve epidermal pigmentation through melanocore transfer.

The skin acts as a barrier to environmental insults and provides many vital functions. One of these is to shield DNA from harmful ultraviolet radiation, which is achieved by skin pigmentation arising as melanin is produced and dispersed within the epidermal layer. This is a crucial defence against DNA damage, photo‐ageing and skin cancer. The mechanisms and regulation of melanogenesis and melanin transfer involve extensive crosstalk between melanocytes and keratinocytes in the epidermis, as well as fibroblasts in the dermal layer. Although the predominant mechanism of melanin transfer continues to be debated and several plausible models have been proposed, we and others previously provided evidence for a coupled exo/phagocytosis model. Herein, we performed histology and immunohistochemistry analyses and demonstrated that a newly developed full‐thickness three‐dimensional reconstructed human pigmented skin model and an epidermis‐only model exhibit dispersed pigment throughout keratinocytes in the epidermis. Transmission electron microscopy revealed melanocores between melanocytes and keratinocytes, suggesting that melanin is transferred through coupled exocytosis/phagocytosis of the melanosome core, or melanocore, similar to our previous observations in human skin biopsies. We, therefore, present evidence that our in vitro models of pigmented human skin show epidermal pigmentation comparable to human skin. These findings have a high value for studies of skin pigmentation mechanisms and pigmentary disorders, whilst reducing the reliance on animal models and human skin biopsies.

Identification of Melanin in the Mantle of the Pacific Oyster Crassostrea gigas

The Pacific oyster, Crassostrea gigas, is widely distributed and is substantially important to shellfish cultivation. Oysters with melanin-colored shells and soft parts are increasingly popular and are of high economic value. However, the distribution and synthesis of melanin in C. gigas remains unclear and there have been only few relevant studies on it. In this study, transmission electron microscopy (TEM) was used to observe melanin in the epidermis of dark mantle tissue. Melanocytes containing melanosomes were observed below the epidermis, suggesting the possibility of a gradual transfer of melanin from the mantle tissue to the epithelium. The frozen section technique and three melanin staining methods were used to confirm the presence of melanin. The results suggest that enzyme identification (DOPA) is a suitable method of melanin staining in the mantle tissues of C. gigas. This study preliminarily identified the existence of melanin in the mantle tissues of C. gigas and is a foundation for the study of melanin synthesis. Furthermore, it provides new insights into the mechanism of shell color formation.

Research on antioxidant performance of diglucosyl gallic acid and its application in emulsion cosmetics.

Diglucosyl gallic acid is a whitening active with powerful whitening function. When it acts on human skin, microorganisms on the skin surface and part of the stratum corneum produce α-glucosidase to sever the glucose bond of diglucosyl gallic acid, thereby converting part of diglucosyl gallic acid into gallic acid, acting on the skin and exerting the excellent effects of diglucosyl gallic acid and gallic acid at the same time. Diglucosyl gallic acid has high stability and water solubility, it can reduce free radical generation, inhibit tyrosinase generation, prevent melanin transfer, and control skin inflammation. The present study investigates the in vitro tyrosinase inhibition activity, antioxidant capacity of diglucosyl gallic acid as well as its clinical efficacy as a cosmetic ingredient. Taking VC and gallic acid as controls, the pH = 6.8, 0.05 mmol/L Na2HPO4-NaH2PO4 buffer solution was prepared to test the tyrosinase inhibitory activity and antioxidant capacity of diglucosyl gallic acid respectively. Using arbutin and nicotinamide, two common cosmetic raw materials as controls, 20 volunteers (aged 20-35 years old) were selected for the test. (2 ± 0.1) mg/cm2 take the lotion to be tested and apply it to the test part evenly, twice a day, volunteers are not allowed to use sunscreen or other sunscreen products during the study period. The results show that diglucosyl gallic acid has a stronger ability to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase compared with VC, and its IC50 value is 2.68 mg/ mL. Their potential antioxidant activities are further evaluated by the DPPH (α, α-diphenyl-β-picrylhydrazyl) method and the ABTS [2,2´-azinobis-(3-ethylbenz othiazoline-6-sulphonate)] radical cation (ABTS+) method, in which the gallic acid demonstrates a better performance than the traditional antioxidant vitamin C (VC), while the diglucosyl gallic acid shows poorer performance. As to the reducing ability, VC has the best performance, much better than gallic acid and diglucosyl gallic acid. Furthermore, through clinical experiments, it is shown the application of the diglucosyl gallic acid as a cosmetic ingredient can considerably improve the brightness of the skin and meanwhile reduce the area of ultraviolet spots, melanin and erythema over time. The above in vitro and in vivo studies on diglucosyl gallic provide the basis for its future application development in cosmetics.

A unique case of borderline lepromatous leprosy presenting with both hypopigmented and hyperpigmented macules

Primary hyperpigmentation is rare in leprosy. We report a patient with borderline lepromatous (BL) leprosy who presented with both hypopigmented and hyperpigmented macules. Histopathology with Masson Fontana staining and immunohistochemistry with HMB 45 revealed decreased melanin granules in keratinocytes of basal and superficial layers in hypopigmented macules when compared to hyperpigmented macules. It appears that hypopigmentation in leprosy lesions may be due to defective transfer of melanin into keratinocytes.

Functional Characterization of Melanin Decolorizing Extracellular Peroxidase of Bjerkandera adusta.

Melanin pigmentation in the human skin results from complicated cellular mechanisms that remain to be entirely understood. Uneven melanin pigmentation has been counteracted by inhibiting synthesis or transfer of melanin in the skin. Recently, an enzymatic approach has been proposed, wherein the melanin in the skin is decolorized using lignin peroxidase. However, not many enzymes are available for decolorizing melanin; the most studied one is lignin peroxidase derived from a lignin degrading fungus, Phanerochaete chrysosporium. Our current study reveals that versatile peroxidase from Bjerkandera adusta can decolorize synthetic melanin. Melanin decolorization was found to be dependent on veratryl alcohol and hydrogen peroxide, but not on Mn2+. The degree of decolorization reached over 40% in 10 min at 37 °C and a pH of 4.5. Optimized storage conditions were slightly different from those for the reaction; crude enzyme preparation was the most stable at 25 °C at pH 5.5. Since the enzyme rapidly lost its activity at 50 °C, stabilizers were screened. As a result, glycerol, a major component in several cosmetic formulations, was found to be a promising excipient. Our results suggest that B. adusta versatile peroxidase can be considered for future cosmetic applications aimed at melanin decolorization.

Kaempferol, the melanogenic component of Sanguisorba officinalis, enhances dendricity and melanosome maturation/transport in melanocytes

Kaempferol, a representative flavonoid constituent of Sanguisorba officinalis, promotes melanogenesis, but the underlying mechanisms remain unknown. Here, we evaluated the effects of kaempferol on melanocytes morphology and behavior and determined the mechanisms regulating kaempferol-induced pigmentation. We observed that kaempferol increased melanin contents and dendritic length and stimulated melanocyte migration both in vitro and vivo. It significantly enhanced the expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and downstream enzymes of melanin biosynthesis—tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein (TRP-1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT). It also induced melanosome maturation (increased stage III and IV melanosomes) and melanin transfer to dendritic tips; this was evidenced as follows: kaempferol-treated melanocytes exhibited the perimembranous accumulation of HMB45-positive melanosomes and increased the expression of Rab27A, RhoA, and Cdc42, which improved melanosome transport to perimembranous actin filaments. These results jointly indicated that kaempferol promotes melanogenesis and melanocyte growth. Additionally, kaempferol stimulated the phosphorylation of P38/ERK MAPK and downregulated p-PI3K, p-AKT, and p-P70s6K expression. Pre-incubation with P38 (SB203580) and ERK (PD98059) signaling inhibitors reversed the melanogenic and dendritic effects and MITF expression. PI3K/AKT inhibitor augmented kaempferol-induced melanin content and dendrite length. In summary, kaempferol regulated melanocytes’ dendritic growth and melanosome quantity, maturation, and transport via P38/ERK MAPK and PI3K/AKT signaling pathways.

Enzymatic Synthesis of a Series of Thioglycosides: Analogs of Arbutin with Efficient Antipigmentation Properties

AbstractArbutin, a natural glycoside, is well known as a commercial tyrosinase inhibitor, and thus, to prevent pigmentary disorders of skin. In fact, tyrosinase is involved in the biosynthesis of melanin, the skin main pigment. However, arbutin is subject to hydrolysis, which limits its bioactivity. In general, thioglycosides are known to be very resistant to both chemical and enzymatic hydrolysis, which increases the interaction time with their biological targets. A biocatalytic approach allowed us to access to thioglycosidic analogs of arbutin in a green approach with good to excellent yields. Such compounds have then been tested as tyrosinase inhibitors as well as inhibitors of melanin transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes. This latter mechanism takes place via lectin (or lectin‐like) receptors present on the cells surface. p‐Aminophenyl β‐D‐thiogalactopyranoside appears to be an excellent candidate thanks to its tyrosinase inhibitory activity comparable to arbutin, while having the ability to interact with glycan receptors allowing to reduce melanin transfer.

Melanin Transfer and Fate within Keratinocytes in Human Skin Pigmentation.

Human skin and hair pigmentation play important roles in social behavior but also in photoprotection from the harmful effects of ultraviolet light. The main pigments in mammalian skin, the melanins, are synthesized within specialized organelles called melanosomes in melanocytes, which sit at the basal layer of the epidermis and the hair bulb. The melanins are then transferred from melanocytes to keratinocytes, where they accumulate perinuclearly in membrane-bound organelles as a "cap" above the nucleus. The mechanism of transfer, the nature of the pigmented organelles within keratinocytes, and the mechanism governing their intracellular positioning are all debated and poorly understood, but likely play an important role in the photoprotective properties of melanin in the skin. Here, we detail our current understanding of these processes and present a guideline for future experimentation in this area.