Traditional Clothing Research Articles

WOMEN'S CLOTHES AND DECORATIONS OF THE CITY OF NAKHCHIVAN

The land of Azerbaijan is divided into various historical and ethnographic regions in terms of their unique customs and traditions. One of such historical and ethnographic regions is Nakhchivan. In the XIX-XX centuries, this region consisted of two large cities - Nakhchivan and Ordubad. The article explores women's clothing, jewelry and decor items typical for the Nakhchivan region of Azerbaijan. National clothes are an important ethnographic phenomenon that characterizes, distinguishes and conveys the national aspect as a kind of material culture. Like other areas of material culture, clothing is also related to the socio-economic conditions of human life and clearly reflects the labor activity of people, artistic and aesthetic taste and class differences between social groups of society. In addition to religious beliefs, climatic, geographical and natural conditions also influence the style of clothing. The study of folk costumes in historical and ethnographic regions determines the general (similar) and local (different) characteristics of the Azerbaijani clothing culture and helps to closely monitor ethnocultural ties with the neighboring peoples of Azerbaijan. It is clear from research that although the clothing style of the 19th century is a logical continuation of the types of clothing formed in previous historical periods in accordance with the style method and sewing technique, it has undergone changes in accordance with the needs of the new period. This feature is most often found in urban and professional clothing. In particular, the deepening of the division of labor led to the creation of various types of professional clothing. The growth of trade union differences in society over time manifested itself in their clothing. Researchers note that in the 19th century, changes took place in Azerbaijani clothing, one of which was the gradual disappearance of military clothing and related types and their disappearance from the market over time. Only the dagger hanging from the belt and lead pockets on the side of the rope remain in addition to the clothes. After that, these elements partially lost their functional significance, which was preserved as a decorative element of decor Clothes are usually made from cloth. Fabric is one of the elements that reflect the culture of people. The patterns and colors of fabrics are important features that make the difference both between people and between rich and poor.   Since the middle of the 20th century, as in any clothing, national features began to disappear in women's clothing over time. Changes to the shape and features of clothing are now reflected in the style of clothing. Today, national clothes are practically not used among the townspeople. In particular, the media and the socio-economic structure form the basis of the dress change. In addition, the death of older people who wore traditional clothes and the interest of young people in today's fashion have led to the fact that national clothes are not in demand and are on the verge of extinction every day. To prevent this, it is necessary to create the necessary infrastructure for the transfer of these clothes to future generations.

Local Wisdom In The Use Sundanese Language of Early Childhood In Indihiang Sub-District Tasikmalaya City (Analytical Descriptive Study)

The basic problem of this research is related to the use of Indonesian language in the daily conversations of Sundanese children. This study aims to analyze descriptively and analytically the use of Sundanese language based on the local wisdom perspective of Sundanese culture about the importance of introducing the use of regional languages. This study involved a population of Kindergarten students in the Indihiang sub-district, Tasikmalaya City, West Java, amount 7 institutions and 120 students. The results of the study were obtained based on data collection techniques consists of observation, questionnaires, and interviews equipped with research instruments and the recording of research results concluded that the lack of use of the Early Chilhood Sundanese language both in the family environment, non-formal social environment (playmates) as well as the formal environment ( educational institutions). The solution to this problem; 1) The movement introduced the use of Sundanese in households, especially households consisting of couples from the same ethnic group. 2) Introducing Sundanese learning in official institutions. The ”Rabu Nyunda” program is not only a partial program limited to regional symbols such as the use of traditional clothing but must be comprehensive with other cultural components such as dance, music and Sundanese “unggah-ungguh”.
 Keywords: Culture, Language, Local, Sundanese, Wisdom

ANALISIS PERILAKU REMAJA PUTRI DI BALI TERHADAP PERKEMBANGAN GAYA BUSANA ADAT KE PURA

Bali is an archipelago in Indonesia that is the prima donna of foreign tourism. The natural beauty of the tropics and the cultural charm that is served is the main attraction for tourists. Communities on the island of Bali are mostly dominated by Hindus. One of the religious activities carried out by the Hindu-Balinese community is going to the temple to worship. Balinese Traditional Clothing that is used at the temple. However, along with the development of technology and the influence of globalization. Balinese Traditional Clothing began to experience deviations in terms of aesthetics and ethics. This study aims to analyze how the behavior of young women in Bali is dealing with the development of the style of dress in the temple in the present era. Research qualitative uses data analysis techniques and qualitative descriptive methods to reveal facts and material objects. This research is devoted to young women because they are considered to tend to follow contemporary dress styles that are supported by progress and easy access to information. The results show that fashionable traditional clothes resemble the Korean look and kamen subordinates that are sewn to resemble skirts have a lot of devotees and are often used for going to the temple. The conclusion is young women in Bali tend to easily follow the development of traditional dress styles to the temple. This is due to technological advances and the role of public figures in promoting traditional clothing.

Innovation of Motifs Inspired by Indian and Palestinian Traditional Clothing and Executing them in Designing Contemporary Fashion

Clothing decoration is one of the plastic arts that aim to give clothes a distinct artistic value that reflects the geographical, social, economic, professional and environmental reality of many countries of the world. If we look at the decoration in the clothes, we find that it reflects the life, heritage and culture of peoples. The main research problem is the lack of researches that combines traditional motifs in two different civilizations, and accordingly the research questions are: What is the possibility of merging Indian and Palestinian motifs to create new motifs? What is the possibility of applying integrated and innovative motifs in the designing contemporary fashion? The significance of the research appears in increasing the diversity of the motifs used in contemporary fashion, spreading the cultures of peoples through the motifs of traditional clothing. The research objectives are merging Indian and Palestinian motifs to create new innovative motifs, and then using these innovative motifs in designing contemporary fashion. The research hypotheses are: First: It is possible to create motifs inspired by traditional Indian and Palestinian clothing and applying them in contemporary fashion. Second: There are statistically significant differences between the opinions of the arbitrators for the proposed designs with Indian motifs, the proposed designs with Palestinian motifs, and the proposed designs with motifs integrated from both of them. The research methodology: it followed the descriptive approach in analyzing the motifs of traditional Indian and Palestinian clothing, as well as the experimental approach in the use of motifs incorporated in designing of modern women's clothing. The procedural steps of the research divided into three stages: First: Analyzing the motifs found in traditional Indian and Palestinian clothes separately. Second: Merging some decorative units of each culture with itself and then with each other to create new decorative units. Third: executing merged motifs in creation of innovative modern fashion. Twelve modern women clothing designs are been created. A questionnaire is designed consisting of four main axes, which deals with the aesthetic aspect, the functional aspect, the innovative aspect, and the general form. The questionnaire was presented to (20) arbitrators in the field of specialization to evaluate the proposed designs. Results are represented graphically and refer to achieving the seventh design the highest evaluation score. It also concluded that the designs executed with integrated Indian and Palestinian motifs together won the approval and appreciation of the arbitrators in most of the evaluation axes, followed by designs with integrated Indian motifs, then designs with integrated Palestinian motifs. With these results, the objectives of the research are achieved and its hypotheses are proven.

Methods of textiles valorization: from traditional to ecodesign

In this article, the author aimed to reflect the ways of valorization on traditional textiles at the current stage. The analysis of the degree of implementation of the artistic and technical peculiarities of traditional textiles in new design solutions, led to the identification of these techniques, outlining their theoretical value, and the exemplified projects denote the applicative value of the work. The importance and usefulness of the work is relevant by approaching design solutions (which are exposed to analysis) oriented to eco-design, while the valorization of the artistic values of traditional textiles and the corresponding techniques in this context proves to be optimal.

Kebijakan Pemerintah Daerah untuk Mengembangkan Industri Kreatif (Studi pada Industri Kecil Menengah di Bali)

Bali is an area that has traditional weaving crafts and still survives amid the globalization of textiles. This study describes the implementation of the policy of using traditional woven fabrics in encouraging the development of small and medium weaving industries (IKM) in Bali. The research was conducted with a qualitative approach. Data is collected through literature review, documents, and observation. Research through literature study utilizes online media, statistical data, books, articles in journals, government websites, and trusted online media. The implementation of the policy on the use of traditional Balinese woven or endek fabrics has gone according to the government's expectations, in the form of purchasing woven products, training for new woven craftsmen, providing looms, and establishing weaving centers. However, there are still a number of obstacles to be faced, namely in the upstream section, the availability of raw materials still relies on outside Bali. Generations of craftsmen who are still lacking to meet the sudden market demand.

Remembering the Herero-Nama Genocide in Namibia

Remembering the Herero-Nama Genocide in Namibia

PERANCANGAN BUSANA BERKELANJUTAN BAGI MARKET URBAN SEBAGAI UPAYA REVITALISASI TENUN SUMBA TIMUR

The local product of the Sumba region, namely woven cloth, is widely known to the public thanks to various efforts done by various agencies. However, from the various existing weaves, only ikat weaving that is wellknown for the wider community, while there is another woven, namely Lau Pahikung, which is also a specialty of the region. This research presents revitalization process of Lau Pahikung weaving through fashion design products aimed for urban communities. The research process uses a qualitative research approach with the ATUMICS and Trend Forecasting methods that being done in sustainable way. The product uses the main material of Lau Pahikung weaving which is processed in ecofriendly way so that the selection of material combinations also considered sustainable materials, namely denim material from the Badjatex label which already has an environmentally friendly fabric production certificate. The process resulting ready-to-wear fashion collection titled Denim Revolution, a collection which inspired from the basic form of Sumbanese traditional cloth using Lau Pahikung and other sustainable material for the preservation of Lau Pahikung woven. Keywords: ATUMICS, fashion, Lau Pahikung, Sumba, sustainability

KEJAWEN CLOTHES COMPLETED WITH KROMO JAVANESE ABLE PRESERVING THE CULTURE OF COURAGE IN THE SCHOOL ENVIRONMENT

<p>Kejawen clothing is part of the Central Javanese traditional clothing which consists of beskap and kebaya. Beskap is the clothes worn by men and kebaya is the traditional clothes worn by women. The various materials, patterns, and motifs used to make kejawen clothes are able to elevate the wearer's self-image. Kejawen clothing provides a new nuance in education circles in Central Java province which is worn every Thursday starting in 2015. Kejawen is worn by all teachers in schools equipped with Kromo Javanese both to fellow school residents and students during lessons. The Javanese language is currently a language that must be preserved considering that in the technological era, all use millennial languages. The Javanese Kromo language is an innovation carried out by the government in order to preserve eastern culture which prioritizes language politeness traditions. Javanese Kromo language is able to create a realm of communication that provides classification, conditions, socio-cultural background, and individual roles in life. The school environment is an important vehicle for providing real learning from role models regarding polite dress code and polite language procedures for students as the next generation of the nation. This research method uses qualitative, the validation uses theoretical triangulation, the analytical technique used is a qualitative descriptive study with an ethnographic approach. The results show that wearing traditional Kejawen clothing shows pride as a generation in preserving culture. Meanwhile, the use of Kromo Javanese can provide self-confidence, set an example for the next generation in the school environment, be able to adapt and uphold Kromo Javanese as an effort to realize the tradition of language politeness which is fading nowadays.</p><p><strong>Keywords</strong>: Javanese clothing, Kromo Javanese, politeness culture</p>

MXene-Decorated Smart Textiles with the Desired Mid-Infrared Emissivity for Passive Personal Thermal Management.

Multifunctional and long-term stable wearable heating systems have attracted extensive attention from experts, yet smart textiles that only rely on harvesting the body's heat without additional energy still face huge challenges in practical applications. Herein, we rationally prepared the monolayer MXene Ti3C2Tx nanosheets via an in situ hydrofluoric acid generation method, which was further employed to construct a wearable heating system of MXene @ polyester polyurethane blend fabrics (MP textile) for the passive personal thermal management through a simple spraying process. Owing to the unique two-dimensional (2D) structure, the MP textile presents the desired mid-infrared emissivity, which could efficiently suppress the thermal radiation loss from the human body. Notably, the MP textile with an MXene concentration of 28 mg/mL exhibits a low mid-infrared emissivity of 19.53% at 7-14 μm. Significantly, these prepared MP textiles demonstrate an enhanced temperature of more than 6.83 °C compared with those of favorably traditional fabrics, involving the black polyester fabric, pristine polyester polyurethane blend fabric (PU/PET), and cotton, suggesting a charming indoor passive radiative heating performance. The temperature of real human skin covered by MP textile is 2.68 °C higher than that covered by cotton fabric. Impressively, these prepared MP textiles simultaneously possess attractive breathability, moisture permeability, mechanical strength, and washability, which provide new insight into human body temperature regulation and physical health.

Celebrating Africa: Afro-Asian Nuances of Fashion

As African designers with vested interest in pushing the African fashion agenda on the world fashion stage, the design team undertook this project to purposively create a multi-ethnic-inspired costume for a Tanzanian member of the Diplomatic Corps. The occasion was to commemorate the celebration (the election and swearing into office) of the first ever Black woman of Asian descent, Kamala Harris as Vice President of the United States of America (USA), a historic period characterised by COVID 19 pandemic. Inspiration was from local resources including those from the celebrant’s varied background. The research design is a studio-based modelled on design-led concepts. The dress created reflects the Afro-Asian nuances of clothing traditions which speak of modesty, brightness, re-birthed and ancient costumes brewed in the African ‘pot.’

Intention to Purchase Eco-Friendly Handcrafted Fashion Products for Gifting and Personal Use: A Comparison of National and Foreign Consumers.

This study aims to examine consumer intention to purchase eco-friendly, handcrafted fashion products made from upcycled clothing and traditional Indonesian batik fabric. Data were collected via an online questionnaire with 289 participants, including both Indonesian and non-Indonesian consumers. The hypotheses were tested using structural equation modeling in SmartPLS 3. The results showed that fashion motivation and perceived value positively impacted the intention to purchase this type of product for personal use and for gifting. The perceived price had a positive effect on purchase intention for gifting. Altruistic motivations affected attitudes but not purchase intentions. Differences were identified between national and foreign consumers regarding the impact of price perception on attitudes and personal purchase intentions. The study provides practical implications for small businesses, artisan crafts, and entrepreneurs.

DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT OF ANDROID-BASED TRADITIONAL INDONESIAN CLOTHING IMAGE GUESSING GAME

In terms of cultural traditions, Indonesia is home to a wide variety of very diverse practices. As a result of different regions of the country, Indonesia is home to diverse cultural traditions. Traditional clothing is an important aspect of the Indonesian culture. The traditions and culture of each region are reflected in the clothes worn at traditional ceremonies; in addition, traditional clothing is a decisive feature of the culture of each region. Concern for the maintenance of national culture, which relates to the wearing of indigenous clothing, has been significantly reduced because of the passage of time. For example, one of the main reasons why people's interest in traditional clothing is not as strong as it used to be is because there is not enough socialization and presentation of Indonesian culture in society. The goal of this study project is to create a learning app for Android based on the guesswork of traditional Indonesian clothing. Research and Development techniques were selected as the proximity used for this investigation. Research and Development As a consequence of this research, an educational game that allows users to predict photos of traditional clothing from Indonesia will be produced on the Android platform. This game will also provide information to players about traditional musical instruments that can be found in Indonesia. It is hoped that educational video games will help in the process of exposing children to pre-existing cultures, and such games can also be seen as offering new perspectives to children. It is possible to draw the conclusion, based on the findings of tests conducted using the black box approach, that this application is capable of functioning in an appropriate way. Moreover, it can provide android smartphone customers with instructional games.

Research on cultural gene of Jing embroidery patterns of traditional clothing

In order to tap the modern value of Jing Embroidery, promote the living inheritance and activation innovation, the artistic and cultural elements of Jing Embroidery patterns are summarized. From the perspective of dress regulation, the cultural genes of Jing embroidery patterns are combed, and three cultural gene values are obtained: the belief power of advocating nature, the good wish of seeking good fortune and avoiding evil, and the order of superiority and inferiority that highlights status. The in-depth study of cultural genes provides a reference for the innovative design of Jing embroidery patterns.

Traces of Social History in Batu Bara Songket Traditional Crafts in Batubara Regency, North Sumatra Province

This study aims to describe the traces of social history in the traditional craft of Batubara songket in Batubara Regency. Songket Batu Bara woven fabric continues to evolve with the times, songket has even become a popular choice for traditional Malay wedding attire, especially in Batu Bara regency. This study uses a descriptive qualitative research method. Data collection was carried out by observation, document analysis, interviews, and literature studies. Qualitative descriptive data analysis techniques were used in this study. The results of this study indicate that the Batu Bara Malay songket woven fabric is a traditional woven fabric that has become a cultural heritage for the Batu Bara people. Batu Bara Malay Songket was already known during the reign of the Batu Bara Sultanate. The functions of the Malay Batu Bara woven songket include, as a reinforcement of identity, an expression of love, to maintaining the continuity and stability of Malay culture, when someone wears a Malay songket, they are already carrying out the function of the Malay songket woven fabric and also developing culture.

Character Education in Ranup Lampuan Dance: A Critical Study of Non-Verbal Communication

The Ranup Lampuan dance was created by Yuslizar in Banda Aceh in 1959. Yuslizar’s Ranup Lampuan dance is danced to honor and welcome guests officially. In the show, seven female dancers wear traditional clothes and dance with gentle movements while carrying a puan and betel as a sign of respect. This dance is full of meanings and values that reflect the uniqueness of the culture and customs of the Acehnese in honoring guests. This study will look at the meaning of non-verbal messages contained in the Ranup Lampuan dance through the choreography of the movements and clothing used. This research was conducted on the younger generation of dancers, musicians and dance fashion stylists of Ranup Lampuan. This research uses descriptive qualitative research with a phenomenological approach. The results show that the non-verbal message of the Ranup Lampuan dance movement, which is danced regularly, uniformly, gentle, and graceful with a beautiful smile throughout the performance, has a non-verbal meaning that implies “rumeh muka” which means friendly in welcoming guests, and implies cohesiveness and cooperation, as well as Islamic values related to procedures for honoring guests in every activity of Acehnese life. Non-verbal messages through the clothes worn can be seen from the choice of colors, uniformity of clothing, selection of dance accessories, and clothing equipment used in the Ranup Lampuan dance reflecting courage, cohesiveness, beauty, neatness, attractiveness and diversity and Islamic values in Acehnese.

Tarihî Çeşmeler ve Niğde Tarihî Kent Merkezi Çeşmeleri Üzerine Bir Araştırma

Throughout history, water has been one of the most valued resources for human beings, both as a source of life and with its visual beauty. All past societies gave great importance to water and developed different water structures such as wells, fountains and public fountains for its use. Among these structures, urban fountains are very important urban equipment because of their relationship with living spaces and the places where social communication takes place. The city of Niğde is an Anatolian city that has been under the domination of many great states from the Hittite to Rome, from the Anatolian Seljuk to the Ottoman Empire. These states have shown their influence on the traditional urban fabric as well as in the cultural life. There are many historical fountains from various periods in the city center of Niğde. The aim of this study; to emphasize the value of historical fountains for urban culture and to reveal how important it is to protect these fountains. The study also aimed to reveal the physical characteristics and cultural values of Niğde fountains from different periods. In this study, the typological features of the historical fountains in the city center of Niğde were revealed by quantitative measurement methods and a typological classification was made for these fountains. As a result of the study, the typological features of historical fountains were brought to the literature and the importance of these fountains for the city of Niğde, which is not very rich in terms of water resources, was emphasized.

Experimental investigation of self-cleaning behaviour of 3D-printed textile fabrics with various printing parameters

Self-cleaning of textile fabrics is defined as the ability that the pollutants particles can be removed from the fabric surface without any external source. The application of the technology is beneficial to the environment since it conserves water, energy and laundry costs. In the past, it is typically obtained by chemical coatings, which develop low surface energy and high roughness on the fabric surface, allowing the pollutant particles or droplets to float over the surface rather than adhesion. These chemical coating methods are effective for fabrics manufactured by traditional woven-based textile technology. However, the recent advancements in 3D printing technology have evolved the manufacturing of textile fabrics but with equal challenges in self-cleaning as previous chemical coating-based methods are not useful for printed fabrics. A recent study has successfully established a linear regression model to demonstrate the relationship between secondary 3D printing parameters and the self-cleaning properties of different polymeric fabrics. This paper is intended to analyse the impact of the primary printing parameters on the self-cleaning attributes, including infill rate (IR), flow rate (FR), printing temperature (PT), printing speed (PS), and printing acceleration (PA). The experimental results were used to construct a regression polynomial to quantify the self-cleaning behaviour of the selected thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) fabric. The models were validated experimentally to highlight the critical values of considered primary parameters for optimal self-cleaning behaviour. The obtained results indicated that FR was the most significant parameter, and all parameters affected the fabric's wettability almost equally.

Penerapan Media Pembelajaran Interaktif Berbasis Flash (Studi Kasus : Mata Pelajaran Kewarganegaraan pada Siswa Kelas 4)

This study aims to facilitate teaching and learning activities, so as to increase students' understanding of the introduction to traditional Indonesian clothing and houses delivered by educators. The introduction of traditional clothes and houses is considered to be a very big challenge, especially for the millennial generation who are less interested in learning Indonesian culture when compared to today's modern culture. This is one of the homework for educators. In the world of education, instructional media is often overlooked for reasons of limited time to make teaching preparations and it is difficult to find the right media, so that students experience difficulties and feel bored with civics subjects. The learning method used to overcome these problems is to create interactive learning media on civics subjects with material introduction to traditional Indonesian clothing and houses. This learning media starts from the needs analysis process that will be used in making flash-based interactive learning media and creating concepts or designs according to the results of the analysis. The results to be achieved in making this interactive learning media are that students can understand the material and increase the attractiveness of student learning towards the introduction of traditional Indonesian clothing and houses, so that the teaching and learning process becomes more effective. This interactive learning media is expected to help the school, especially teachers and students, in conveying or receiving material more clearly.

DESIGN INTERVENTION ON THE MOTIF PATTERNS OF “KAPDA GONDA” CRAFT OF DONGRIA KONDH TRIBE OF ORISSA

India is a country with rich heritage of traditional textiles. It is a cluster of art and crafts of various communities and tribes. Tribal textiles are distinguished by their one-of-a-kindness, which reflects racial feelings and cultural identity. “Dongria Kondh” is a tribe from Odisha, lives on the hills of Niyamgiri, particularly on Rayagadha district. The importance of this community is that their arts and crafts reflect the importance of the mountains strain. The triangular design on the walls of the village and the colourful cloth embroidery they wear called "Kapda Gonda”. The design for adornment of kapda gonda reflects with the ethnic identity. The research process includes ethnographic investigation to profile social and cultural importance of Kapda Gonda in the form of interview of artisans for the process and embroidery involved in “Kapda Gonda”. The main purpose of the study is to provide training to the artisans to explore new ways of design intervention in the patterns of traditional motifs of Kapda Gonda to create awareness of their own craft flexibility within their community. With design intervention in Kapda Gonda motifs the artisans could make wide range of motifs for the modern society.