Traditional Apparel Research Articles

Implementation of design approach in traditional attire Bodo Dokhona for the sustainability of apparel culture

Purpose The purpose of this study is to empower a tradition Bodo attire Dokhona skilled artisan for their livelihoods and preserve cultural and historical legacy by using new themes influenced by Bodo items. Design/methodology/approach To revive the traditional Bodo artefacts by adapting a varied form of motifs inspired from Bodo artefacts which showcases Bodo identity. Findings Motifs implemented in apparel (e.g. Dokhona) inspired from Bodo traditional tools and musical instruments, signifying Bodo identity. Such apparels could be purchased by Bodo consumers as they are very keen to sustain their culture and heritage through motifs weaved in their traditional apparel. This study also proves that Dokhona designed with novel motifs developed from traditional artefacts are better than currently available designs of Dokhona as these were more aesthetic and contemporary in look. Social implications The motif adapted from traditional artefacts would motivate the weavers to weave innovative motif designs in their apparel bringing some newness in the Bodo traditional attire Dokhona, leads to business and women empowerment. Originality/value This study showed the way to create innovative ideas for designing apparel (e.g. Dokhona) from cultural artefacts and helps prospective textile and apparel designers to design sustainable Dokhona.

Inclusion Ethics in AI: Use Cases in African Fashion

This paper addresses the ethics of inclusion in artificial in-telligence in the context of African fashion. Despite the proliferation of fashion-related AI applications and da-tasets global diversity remains limited, and African fash-ion is significantly underrepresented. This paper docu-ments two use-cases that enhance AI's inclusivity by in-corporating sub-Saharan fashion elements. The first case details the creation of a Senegalese fashion dataset and a model for classifying traditional apparel using transfer learning. The second case investigates African wax textile patterns generated through generative adversarial net-works (GANs), specifically StyleGAN architectures, and machine learning diffusion models. Alongside the practi-cal, technological advances, theoretical ethical progress is made in two directions. First, the cases are used to elabo-rate and define the ethics of inclusion, while also contrib-uting to current debates about how inclusion differs from ethical fairness. Second, the cases engage with the ethical debate on whether AI innovation should be slowed to prevent ethical imbalances or accelerated to solve them.

​​VIRTUAL SIMULATION-BASED REFORM OF APPAREL CURRICULUM​

With the rapid development of modern science and technology, computer technology has been widely used in various industrial fields of society, and the education industry is no exception. The application of virtual reality technology in clothing design has greatly improved the efficiency of designers in the redesign process and perfected the wearing effect of clothing. In the face of the future demand for innovative design talents, cultivating talents who meet the requirements of clothing design is an important issue and task for university teaching. At present, there are problems in the teaching of clothing design profession such as single traditional teaching mode, weak creativity of students' works, disconnection between teaching content and practice, imperfect teaching resources and imperfect teaching details. In this paper, virtual reality technology is introduced to reform the curriculum system of the clothing profession through a mixed research approach, using experimental project-based teaching combined with quantitative research methods. Through practice, it is proven that the integration of virtual technology into apparel teaching creates a simulation effect for teachers and students that cannot be matched in the traditional apparel design teaching process and enhances students' interest in learning. The application of virtual reality technology is a new and efficient teaching method that has emerged in recent years with the development of computers, combining technology and art, and based on the teaching of clothing design projects, which greatly improves learning efficiency and teaching effectiveness and can effectively improve students' innovation ability, and has a broad development prospect.

Factors Affecting Purchase Intention of Hanfu: Considering Product Identification, Cultural Motivation, and Perceived Authenticity.

With the trend of national cultural confidence and the growing appreciation for aesthetic diversity, traditional apparel from different countries or regions has become a driving force in the clothing industry. Hanfu, an emerging trend that industrializes traditional culture, has garnered increasing attention from consumers. Thus, with the objective of exploring the psychological antecedents of Hanfu consumers' purchase intentions from the perspectives of product identification, cultural motivation, and consumers' perceived authenticity, the present study was empirically conducted with a sample of 823 respondents. Partial least squares-structural equation modeling (PLS-SEM) was employed to examine the proposed research model. The results demonstrate that consumers' identification with Hanfu and cultural motivation positively influence object-based and existential authenticity, as well as purchase intention. Furthermore, the mediating effect of perceived object-based authenticity is confirmed, indicating its significance in shaping consumers' purchase intentions, while the mediating effect of existential authenticity is found to be insignificant. Research findings could contribute to the understanding of the psychological mechanisms driving consumers' purchase intentions towards traditional clothing and highlight the importance of consumers' perceived object-based authenticity in the market of traditional cultural clothing.

Personal Microenvironment Management by Smart Textiles with Negative Oxygen Ions Releasing and Radiative Cooling Performance.

In recent years, significant strides have been made in the development of smart clothing, which combines traditional apparel with advanced technology. As our climate and environment undergo continuous changes, it has become critically important to invent and refine sophisticated textiles that enhance thermal comfort and human health. In this study, we present a "wearable forest-like textile". This textile is based on helical lignocellulose-tourmaline composite fibers, boasting mechanical strength that outperforms that of cellulose-based and natural macrofibers. This wearable microenvironment does more than generate approximately 18625 ions/cm3 of negative oxygen ions; it also effectively purifies particulate matter. Furthermore, our experiments demonstrate that the negative oxygen ion environment can slow fruit decay by neutralizing free radicals, suggesting promising implications for aging retardation. In addition, this wearable microenvironment reflects solar irradiation and selectively transmits human body thermal radiation, enabling effective radiative cooling of approximately 8.2 °C compared with conventional textiles. This sustainable and efficient wearable microenvironment provides a compelling textile choice that can enhance personal heat management and human health.

한복의 사전적 정의 검토

This study examines the definitions of hanbok from the following dictionaries: Standard Korean Language Dictionary; Encyclopedia of Korean Culture; Encyclopedia of Korean Folk Culture; A Dictionary of Korean Traditional Apparel; Oxford English Dictionary; The Collins Dictionary; Urban Dictionary, and one from a webpage on Korean culture promotion by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of the Republic of Korea (ROK). The examination brings to light the problematic wordings and further discusses why they are problematic. Describing the attributes of hanbok as timeless and static, the definitions do not reflect the historical development of hanbok in dynamism. The discussion contends the following. First, hanbok is a collective noun that refers to the category of traditional clothing of Korea, not only a costume for men and women. Second, given that the term hanbok was coined at the turn of the 20th century, its concept and historical timeline are part of Korea’s modern fashion history, not that of pre-modern, from the ancient to Joseon (1392-1910). Third, the trajectory of hanbok shows its evolution in the contexts of being modernized, hybridized, and culturally authenticated, rather than remaining “traditional” and “authentic.” Fourth, hanbok has served as ethnic dress for ethnic Koreans across the globe and national dress of the ROK. Fifth, as the ROK increasingly becomes a multi-ethnic country in the 21st century, the word “uri (lit. our/we),” which is commonly used to describe the ethnic Korean community as a single entity, should be changed to a third-person perspective. Sixth, the elements of clothing that are subject to change, such as stylistic characteristics, occasions for wearing, and construction methods, must be inclusively described. The arguments presented here are anticipated to contribute to revision of the definitions of hanbok in dictionaries and conceptualization of hanbok as an academic keyword in dress/fashion studies.

Understanding customer-perceived values for apparel retailing in India

PurposeInfrastructural revolution, intense competition and customer attraction towards organised apparel retailing in India are potentially affecting traditional retailing. The authors seek to identify the factors that customers perceive during shopping in organised apparel retail store. This study also investigates the indirect effects of identified factors on behavioural outcomes such as loyalty.Design/methodology/approachThe study randomly selected the customers immediately after shopping to minimise the experience's carryover effects. A sample of 648 customers was collected. Data were analysed using multivariate analysis of covariance.FindingsThe study has found that in-store logistics is the second order factor with ease of return, on-shelf availability, product accessibility, shopping convenience, and product information as the variables. The result shows that in-store logistics, store environment, store communication, merchandise assortment, perceived price and employee attribute influence customer satisfaction. As expected, these factors indirectly influence the loyalty.Research limitations/implicationsThis study focused on organised multi-brand apparel retailing, and the survey was conducted in a tier-II city of India only. Hence, any attempt to generalise the findings must be undertaken with caution.Practical implicationsIn the context of multi-brand retailing, competition is fierce. New entrants and traditional apparel retailers hesitate to adopt organised apparel retailing. The findings of this study can be helpful for new entrants and traditional apparel retailers to adopt organised apparel retailing.Originality/valuePrevious studies in the field of multi-brand retailing have mainly focused on the marketing aspect of retail stores. This study contributes to the operations aspect and tests the impact of operational function (in-store logistics) on customer satisfaction.

Service Experience and Customer Satisfaction in Offline and Online Services: A Study on Traditional Apparel Retail in Odisha

This study reconnoitres the possibilities of any relationship shift in customer service and customer satisfaction within a new space of the young generations’ involvement in buying traditional apparel in Odisha. This study addresses the possible inputs for discrepancies while purchasing the traditional dress. It involves the marketing mix elements as the inputs to assess the consumer service and further consumer satisfaction as the outputs. Structural Equation Modelling has been applied to determine consumers’ responses to service experience and customer satisfaction within the theoretical inclusion of traditional apparel in Odisha. The study found that service experience does not drive the customers’ satisfaction, and the marketing mix elements do not equally affect the service experience. The findings of this study are relevant for future research on a hybrid buying situation where the traditional products are marketed within young generations’ expectations and aspirations. The study will guide marketers to revisit the roles of the marketing mix in dealing with overall consumer experience and satisfaction.

Redesign of Functional <i>Kaba</i> (Blouse) Apparel for Ghanaian Breastfeeding Mothers

Kaba is considered to be a kind of traditional apparel worn by the women in Ghana. Though, it’s worn to accentuate female modesty, chastity and elegance among the women folks. The modern day woman faces a lot of physical and emotional challenges when it comes to breastfeeding. There is a need to redesign and improve upon the kaba apparel for breastfeeding purposes. This study, therefore, sought to redesign functional kaba apparel for breastfeeding mothers. Based on the apparel design framework of Lamb and Kallal, design requirements were identified from breastfeeding mothers and incorporated into the designed apparel. Five prototype designs were made and tested by three selected mothers towards effective breastfeeding. Findings revealed that the prototype apparels made of fasteners and openings in the horizontal, diagonal and vertical directions with zippers and buttons were said to be suitable, comfortable to use and hence acceptable for implementation. This added functional part of the apparel boosted the comfort and confidence of the mother without compromising on their expressive values.

Measuring user experiences with e-sourcing platforms: the development of the e-sourcing experience index

PurposeGrounded in two primary theories such as (1) the triangular alignment model and (2) the technology–organization–environment framework, this paper aims to develop appropriate scales to measure the e-sourcing experience index (EEI).Design/methodology/approachThe sample includes a total of 630 e-sourcing platform users in the US and India who have already utilized e-commerce platforms. Item response theory and factor analysis were used for the psychometric analysis. Measurement invariance was established between the Indian and US participants, indicating similar conceptualization of the items across the two cultures.FindingsThe study's results demonstrated that users have a better experience when online sourcing platforms provide adequate resources for making sourcing decisions, finding potential buyers and managing sourcing activities more efficiently. From the perspective of e-sourcing platforms, suppliers' performance and users' experiences can be improved when businesses address the concerns indicated in the five factors.Research limitations/implicationsThe study's objective was to develop the EEI in order to assess suppliers' experiences with e-sourcing platforms. Due to the diffusion of innovation theory (DOI), different stages of adaptation may cause varied experiences and relationships with buyers.Originality/valueFrom a theoretical perspective, this study is one of the few to combine triangular alignment model (TAM) and technology–organization–environment (TOE) theories and to develop a reliable and valid scale (EEI) for user experiences with online sourcing platforms. Based on the previous scales, the EEI was found to be well in line with the established theories on traditional apparel sourcing, and, at the same time, considered the particulars of e-sourcing practices.

Millennial Generation Purchasing Behavior in Kupang: Tenun Ikat NTT

Tenun Ikat NTT as traditional apparel hasn't attracted the youth market yet especially millennial genera-tion. The millennial generation is a potential market that profitable for Tenun Ikat NTT industry. This re-search tries to answer the questions about attitude and repurchase intention of the millennial generation to buy Tenun Ikat NTT. The author predicts positive attitude and positive norm subjective effect repurchase intention of millennial generation toward Tenun Ikat NTT. This research uses a non-random sampling method (convenience sampling) in order to collect data. One hundred ten young people in Kupang were used as respondents (born in 1982-2000). Data were collected using a questionnaire (google form). This study uses SEM analyze to test the data. The result suggested model fully conforms to theory reasoned ac-tion, attitude and subjective norm had effect toward repurchase intention, fashion involvement and product personality had an effect toward attitude. The study result could be taken to count any policies that link all of the characteristics used in this study.

Research on Garment Mass Customization Architecture for Intelligent Manufacturing Cloud

The deep integration of Internet, intelligent manufacturing and big data technology has promoted the development of products to be networked, digital, intelligent and personalized. The rapid iteration and differential segmentation of consumer demand has spawned new personalized consumer demand, transforming the traditional manufacturing model into a service-oriented manufacturing model. This paper analyses the large-scale customized operation mode of domestic and foreign clothing custom brands. In view of the transformation of traditional clothing industry, this paper proposes a solution to establish a large-scale custom clothing architecture under the vision of intelligent manufacturing cloud platform technology. This paper uses data mining and cloud computing and other methods to build an “Internet + manufacturing” innovation model with rapid collaboration under the umbrella of big data, and propose an architecture for mass customization of clothing, providing effective solutions and strategy recommendations for the transformation and upgrading of the traditional apparel industry.

传统服装企业大规模定制研究

传统服装企业大规模定制研究

FACTORS DRIVING CONSUMERS TO PURCHASE ETHNIC APPAREL: THE CASE OF HANFU

The purpose of this study was to identify the relationship between perceived value, ethnic identity and purchase intention of ethnic apparel. This study examines how Hanfu (traditional costume of the Han Ethnic Group of China) customers perceive certain types of values (emotional value, social value, uniqueness value, conditional value and perceived value). Then this study determined how customers’ perceptions of these values and ethnic identity were correlated with perceived value, and intention to buy Hanfu. Findings from this study indicated that perceived value and ethnic identity were generally associated with purchase intention of ethnic apparel. Hence, ethnic identity moderated the relationship between perceived value and purchase intention. Finally, compared to emotional value, social value, and uniqueness value, conditional value showed the most influential impact on the perceived value. The findings provide an insight in recognizing factors which play an important role in wearing ethnic apparel. More specifically this research provides insight for traditional apparel marketers to design apparel products and reposition the existing products.

Are seminars on export promotion effective? Evidence from a randomised controlled trial

AbstractThis paper investigates the impacts of informational and motivational seminars on export promotion targeting small and medium enterprises in the traditional apparel and textile clusters in Vietnam. To control for biases due to self‐selection, we conducted a randomised controlled trial and invited randomly selected firms to participate in 1‐day seminars. Because only some of the invited firms participated in the seminars, we employ an instrumental variable approach in which the dummy variable for a random invitation is used as an instrument for quantifying the effects of participation. We find that seminar participants were more likely to sense the difficulties of the export procedures and were, on average, unlikely to start exporting in the short run. However, the seminars encouraged large firms, which possibly embody higher productivity and absorptive capacity, to start exporting shortly after the seminars. This effect was not sustained in the long term without additional stimuli. We have also identified spillover effects of participants on non‐participants through informal information networks within the cluster. Overall, the results suggest that the provision of information about export is useful only to adequately productive larger firms with a sufficient absorptive capacity.

Social manufacturing for high-end apparel customization

Social manufacturing (SM), a novel distributed, collaborative and intelligent manufacturing mode, is proposed and developed for high-end apparel customization. The main components of SM cloud are designed, and its research topics are summarized. Then, SM's key technologies are studied. 3D technologies for apparel customization, like 3D modeling, 3D fitting mirror and 3D customization, are developed to improve the customization precision and user experience. Information based collaborative management is realized to share, communicate, and handle the information efficiently among all groups and individuals of SM cloud. Suppliers' evaluation mechanism is designed to support the optimal decisions making. Next, SM cloud is constructed in five layers for high-end apparel customization. By using SM cloud based crowd-sourcing, social resources can be allocated rationally and utilized efficiently, consumer can customize the product in any processes like innovation, design, making, marketing and service, and traditional apparel enterprise can be upgraded into SM mode for keeping it competitive in the future customization markets.

A Collaborative Cloud Service Platform for Realizing Sustainable Make-To-Order Apparel Supply Chain

As fashion mass customization has been developing rapidly in the recent decade, supply chain in apparel industry was required to be more flexible for meeting the need of quick response toward the dynamic changes in the fashion market. Forecast-based make-to-stock production strategy was not suitable anymore. Make-to-order strategy was employed by more and more apparel companies. However, there were still many defects in traditional make-to-order apparel supply chain, e.g., sustainability is still at a low level. In this study, we proposed a collaborative cloud service platform to develop a novel model of sustainable make-to-order apparel supply chain. A service provider selection heuristic was designed for this platform to optimally select suppliers corresponding to each received demand. Multi-agent-based simulation technology was utilized to build the proposed platform and to evaluate the new sustainable supply chain model. Experiment was conducted in the simulation to compare our new model to traditional apparel make-to-order model and model with outsourcing mechanism. Based on simulation results, the remarkable improvement in terms of sustainability of the proposed platform and corresponding supply chain model was demonstrated.

The four faces of apparel consumers: Identifying sustainable consumers for apparel

The aims of this study are to identify apparel consumer segments based on consumer attributes related to sustainability-related factors and traditional apparel shopping-related factors and to profile the identified segments in consumer characteristics. Using a sample of 754 US consumers, a factor analysis, a cluster analysis, χ2 test, and ANOVA were used in identifying and profiling the segments for sustainable consumers for apparel. Four consumer segments were identified: Concerned Shoppers, Holistic Shoppers, Traditionals, and Apathetic Shoppers. Each consumer segment exhibited significant differences in sustainability-related attributes (i.e. sustainability knowledge, sustainability consciousness), traditional shopping-related attributes (i.e. fashion consciousness, price sensitivity, product quality), behavioral outcomes (i.e. ecologically-conscious apparel consumer behavior, socially-conscious apparel consumer behavior, purchase intention of fast fashion products), and demographic characteristics (i.e. gender, age). The results provide marketing suggestions for each consumer segment.

Exploring US Millennial consumers’ consumption values in relation to traditional and social cause apparel product attributes and purchase intentions

Millennial consumers, born between 1980 and 2000, are one of the largest consumer groups, yet there is limited knowledge about their apparel product purchasing intentions. Millennials are said to make sustainability-based decisions and to have a strong social and environmental consciousness. This study explores US Millennial consumers’ consumption values in relation to social cause product attributes of environment, labor, and traceability along with 12 more traditional attributes such as fit or style. Consumption values include the perceived importance of functional, monetary, emotional, social, and epistemic benefits derived from the apparel products. Online survey data were collected from 307 students attending a major western US university. The research hypotheses are tested using regression analyses with jeans as the apparel product category. Results suggest that traditional attributes remain a stronger influence on consumption values than social cause attributes, and that social cause product attributes, while influencing four consumption values, did not influence the social consumption value. Consumption values influence US Millennial consumers’ purchase intentions and these mediate the influence of traditional and social cause attributes on purchase intentions. Further investigation is suggested for clarifying the discrepancy between what is reported regarding Millennial consumers’ convictions and their intended apparel purchase behavior.

Study Chinese operas named after the names of traditional Chinese apparel and accessories

Study Chinese operas named after the names of traditional Chinese apparel and accessories