KNEW that Henry Fielding died in Lisbon and that it was Byron s first stop on his way to the Levant, the journey he recorded in Childe Harold's Pilgrimage. But I didn't go to Lisbon to chase after ghosts, literary or otherwise. My reasons for leaving Madrid, where I was living for the summer, involved a girl. Elena and I had parted ways in early June back in the states. Yet, up to the day of my departure for Spain, I had planned on her visiting me, and memories of our two years together curled around me. Parks, cafes, plazas all evoked experiences that we could and, in my darker moods, should have shared. When I visited museums I missed her company more than I admired the paintings. At the Prado I wandered by El Grecos, Velasquezes, and Goyas, but pictured her standing beside me. She stood a certain way: with her arms folded across her chest and one leg bent so that the opposite hip splayed outward, a posture uniting stillness and energy, concentration in contrapposto. Then with a nimble pivot she would turn to the next canvas. I realized that I needed to escape Madrid with all its ghostly reminders. And so I left for Lisbon at the end of June. I would spend five days in the capital followed by three in Lagos, a beach and bar town in the Algarve. After an overnight bus trip I arrived in Lisbon at seven in the morning. My pension was located steps from the neoclassical plaza Praga Dom Pedro iv, the city's focal point. The clerk led me through a lounge in which a man in a crumpled suit slept in a chair, a blanket draping his lower body, and down a dim corridor to my room. I ditched my belongings and left. In Praga Dom Pedro iv I huddled against a chilling wind and looked around. Lisbon's central districts form a saddle. Baixa is the seat, flanked to the west by Barrio Alto and east by Alfama. The Rio Tejo, or Tagus River, passes to the south. A grid of streets meeting at right angles, Baixa pivots around Praga Dom Pedro iv and the far larger Praga Do Comercio located along the waterfront. Barrio Alto, its narrow alleys lined by bars and restaurants, springs to life in the
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