W HEN A FEW fashion-line gate-crashers in the fall of 1957 and several ore in the fall of 1958 dared to wear short skirts and an all-in-one garment variously called leotards, stretchees, long stretch-pants, or stretch tights, they attracted curiosity and started a nymphlet dressing rage that now has. become a 'must' for the pert and conventional sorority girl. In Seventeen, the fashion editor, after listing 'Tightsomania' as a 'case' among the nubile set, gives directions for wearing the new garments: 'But do you know how to put tights on for the best fit possible? Roll them like stockings, step in, then unroll gradually from the ankles up. They'll stay smooth all day.'1 Here, however, I am not so much interested in methods, nor in the reasons why the stretchies have become so popular. The sociologists, 'the astonished muses,' and the anthropologists can attend to that, although from a humanist's point of view it is rather curious that big girls affect these relatively innocent Lolita-like, Susie-long-leg clothes. Perhaps men can be blamed, too, for the perverse little-girl styles. My interest in the new phenomenon is, if no less perverse, certainly more pedantic. Leotard is a common-noun form of the name of Jules L6otard, the original 'daring young man on the flying trapeze,' who created a tight-fitting gymnastic garment without legs but with wrist-length sleeves. He used this garment in his practice sessions, presumably to avoid rope burns on his arms.2 Until recently, leotard was used only as the name of this tight-fitting upper garment worn by trapeze artists, gymnasts, acrobats, dancers, and ski jumpers. The first printed mention that I can find of a change in the meaning of leotard in the United States occurs in a corset advertisement. The sketch accompanying the ad pictures a saucy French mademoiselle clad in black tights and a white corset. The garment is 'Leotard... the shape they said could never be built into a corselette.'3 This corset is a one-piece garment that has over-theshoulder straps. Meanwhile, tights had been given public recognition through the magazine American Fabrics.4 Leotards are not mentioned, but the garment is pictured. Other spreads feature skin-tight coveralls, tapered pants, and 'slim jims' that cover the hips and the legs down to the ankles. The time was ripe for fashion
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Jan 1, 1985
Shari J Welch + 1
