Apparel Textiles Research Articles

The European standard for sun‐protective clothing: EN 13758

Clothing is considered one of the most important tools for sun protection. Contrary to popular opinion, however, some summer fabrics provide insufficient ultraviolet (UV) protection. The European Committee for Standardization (CEN), has developed a new standard on requirements for test methods and labelling of sun-protective garments. This document has now been completed and is published. Within CEN, a working group, CEN/TC 248 WG14 'UV protective clothing', was set up with the mission to produce standards on the UV-protective properties of textile materials. This working group started its activities in 1998 and included 30 experts (dermatologists, physicists, textile technologists, fabric manufacturers and retailers of apparel textiles) from 11 European member states. Within this working group, all medical, ethical, technical and economical aspects of standardization of UV-protective clothing were discussed on the basis of the expertise of each member and in consideration of the relevant literature in this field. Decisions were made in consensus. The first part of the standard (EN 13758-1) deals with all details of test methods (e.g. spectrophotometric measurements) for textile materials and part 2 (EN 13758-2) covers classification and marking of apparel textiles. UV-protective cloths for which compliance with this standard is claimed must fulfill all stringent instructions of testing, classification and marking, including a UV protection factor (UPF) larger than 40 (UPF 40+), average UVA transmission lower than 5%, and design requirements as specified in part 2 of the standard. A pictogram, which is marked with the number of the standard EN 13758-2 and the UPF of 40+, shall be attached to the garment if it is in compliance with the standard. The dermatology community should take cognizance of this new standard document. Garment manufacturers and retailers may now follow these official guidelines for testing and labelling of UV-protective summer clothes, and the sun-aware consumer can easily recognize garments that definitely provide sufficient UV protection.

A hybrid sales forecasting system based on clustering and decision trees

Competition and globalization imply a very accurate production and sourcing management of the Textile–Apparel–Distribution network actors. A sales forecasting system is required to respond to the versatile textile market and the needs of the distributors. Nowadays, due to the specific constraints of the textile sales (numerous and new items, short life time), existing forecasting models are generally unsuitable or unusable. We propose a forecasting system, based on clustering and classification tools, which performs mid-term forecasting. Performances of our models are evaluated using real data from an important French textile distributor.

A global forecasting support system adapted to textile distribution

Competition and globalization imply a very accurate production and sourcing management of the Textile–Apparel–Distribution network actors. A sales forecasting system is required to respond to the versatile textile market and the needs of the distributor. Nowadays, the existing forecasting models are generally unsuitable to the textile industry. We propose a forecasting system, which is composed of several models and performs forecasts for various horizons and at different sales aggregation levels. This system is based on soft computing techniques such as fuzzy logic, neural networks and evolutionary procedures, permitting the processing of uncertain data. Performances of our models are then evaluated using the real data from an important French textile distributor.

Structural mechanics of knitted fabrics for apparel and composite materials

The importance of fabric biaxial extension, in‐plane compression, shear and bending properties, have been widely recognised by textile scientists and engineers for the evaluation of the three‐dimensional formability and drape of textile materials in apparel products and three‐dimensional preforms. In contrast to woven fabrics where bending and shear properties determine the fabric formability, knitted fabrics have very high formability as a direct result of their easy biaxial extension properties. This ability to form three‐dimensional shapes using the biaxial extensibility of knitted structures enables these knitted textile materials to be utilised for a wide variety of close fitting apparel garments and shaped composite preforms. Some representative biaxial extension curves for the plain knitted structure are described in this paper. These curves illustrate an unusual shape for the load‐extension curve of a textile material arising from the pre‐tension or pre‐stress. The pre‐stress yields an initial high tensile modulus for the structure in contrast to the very low initial modulus characteristic of apparel textiles. Accordingly, for knitted textile materials, it is shown how biaxial extension of the fabric introduces a fabric pre‐stress to maximise the three‐dimensional fabric formability especially when subjected to transverse compression by the resin or matrix in a composite material. Typical uniaxial and biaxial tensile stress–strain curves for knitted fabrics are compared.

In vitro measurement of the ultraviolet protection factor of apparel textiles

The effect that ultraviolet radiation has on skin is a topic of growing interest. Textiles protect against ultraviolet radiation, but the protection provided is often not sufficient. The aim of the present review article is to clarify some basic concepts regarding the in vitro measurement of the protection factor against ultraviolet radiation provided by apparel textiles, paying special attention to the factors that are taken into account to measure it. The conditions for correct and reproducible measurement are described. The peculiarities of current standards and the details for their correct interpretation are also explained, including sample preparation and statistical calculations to determine measurement error and the adjustment of the results.

Protection against ultraviolet radiation by commercial summer clothing: need for standardised testing and labelling.

BackgroundThe use of clothing as a means of sun protection has been recommended in recent education campaigns. Contrary to popular opinion, however, some fabrics provide insufficient ultraviolet (UV) protection.Material and methodsWe investigated 236 apparel textiles of the spring/summer collections 2000 and 2001. In accordance with the forthcoming European standard the UV protection factor (UPF) of the fabrics was determined spectrophotometrically.ResultsSeventy-eight (33%) fabrics had UPF < 15, 45 (19%) had UPF = or > 15 and < 30, and 113 (48%) had UPF = or > 30 (30+). More than 70% of the wool, polyester, and fabric blends, and only less than 30% of the cotton, linen, and viscose fabrics had UPF values of 30+. Fabrics with black, navy-blue, white, green, or beige colours provided most frequently UPF values of 30+.ConclusionsIt is difficult for the sun-aware consumer to choose the 'right' garment, with a third of summer clothing providing insufficient UV protection and only half of the fabrics having UPF 30+, the UPF recommended by the European standard. Therefore, apparel summer fabrics should be measured and labelled in accordance with a standard document.

Structural Mechanics of Knitted Fabrics for Apparel and Composite Materials

The importance of fabric biaxial extension, in-plane compression, shear and bending properties has been widely recognised by textile scientists and engineers for the evaluation of the three-dimensional formability and drape of textile materials in apparel products and three-dimensional preforms. In contrast to woven fabrics where bending and shear properties determine the fabric formability, knitted fabrics have very high formability as a direct result of their easy biaxial extension properties. This ability to form three-dimensional shapes using the biaxial extensibility of knitted structures enables these knitted textile materials to be utilised for a wide variety of close fitting apparel garments and shaped composite preforms. Some representative biaxial extension curves for the plain knitted structure are described in the paper. These curves illustrate an unusual shape for the load–extension curve of a textile material arising from the pre-tension or pre-stress. The pre-stress yields an initial high tensile modulus for the structure in contrast to the very low initial modulus characteristic of apparel textiles. Accordingly, for knitted textile materials, it is shown how biaxial extension of the fabric introduces a fabric pre-stress to maximise the three-dimensional fabric formability especially when subject to transverse compression by the resin or matrix in a composite material. Typical uniaxial and biaxial tensile stress–strain curves for knitted fabrics are compared.

Alternative marketing systems for the apparel wool textile supply chain: filling the communication vacuum

Analysis of secondary data and information gathered from interviews with downstream wool supply chain members suggests that problems exist with the sourcing of raw wool for the apparel textile industry. Specific problems relate to ‘hard’ attributes, such as contaminated fibres and fibre diameter, as well as ‘soft’ attributes, such as origin of the wool and the nature of wool production systems. These problems may arise due to inadequate communication of quality attributes between chain members. The authors argue that more effective communication in the apparel wool supply chain requires the removal of ‘functional silos’, where supply chain members fail to look outside (upstream and/or downstream) their specific sectoral interests, and the continued dominance of the auction as the primary marketing system. The authors conclude that the apparel wool industry needs to co-operate to compete in dynamic, global markets increasingly dominated by synthetic fibres, in which vertically co-ordinated supply chains are the norm, auctions non-existent and communication is seen as a strength, rather than a weakness.

Information Technology for Managing the Textile Apparel Chain: Current Use, Shortcomings and Development Directions

Information technology (IT) is a critical factor in textile apparel supply chain management. This paper seeks to offer a contribution to help understand both the applications and the problem areas of the IT portfolio within the textile apparel industry, in the light of the key competitive factors for the chain. Adopting a perspective that takes into account the whole textile apparel chain, the study reported here sought to identify users' requirements and perceptions and their awareness of three fundamental processes: design; production planning and order cycle; and process control. The study was based on data and opinions gathered by the authors from 38 Italian firms selected from among those in the forefront of IT adoption. It was found that quality improvement and lead time reduction are the key competitive factors for all the actors within the chain. Current use, shortcomings and possible future uses of IT differ in relation to the three processes considered and to the chain phase. However, IT systems are commonly seen as the means through which greater integration between the operations of the different firms active in this sector can be achieved.

Time compression in production and distribution within the textile‐apparel chain

This paper offers a framework in order to examine the temporal sequences of the activities and decisions of the textile apparel chain and to present the prospects for improvement initiatives throughout the various production and distribution chain phases, whether in terms of technology or of organisation and management. This paper focuses on the methods, techniques and approaches that could be adopted throughout the entire chain in order to obtain a set of coherent improvements to achieve quick response (QR). The fundamental improvement stages are considered to be: reduction of lead times in supplying fabric; reduction of lead times in producing a garment; and innovative relationships with the distributors. The structural and infrastructural changes required for a QR approach are also analysed, and the need for a systemic view of the chain is highlighted.

An analytical scheme for the change of the apparel design process towards quick response

Proposes models of a descriptive and interpretative type which examine the temporal sequences of the activities and decisions taken in the textile apparel chain with reference to design. Examines the opportunities for improvement and also identifies the obstacles that interfere with the realization of quick response (QR) in design. Analyses, using the proposed models, the possible interventions along the chain as regards design activities and interaction between these and the production and sales activities. Highlights the following: the reduction of design lead time, through the parallelization of fabric and garment design and through the use of information technology; the reduction of the variety of production input without penalizing the variety perceived by the final consumer; and the acquisition, during design, of preliminary information on future sales, in order to rationalize the offer and carry out the initial assortment of production input.

West African Apparel Textiles Depicted in Selected Magazines from 1960 to 1979: Application of Cultural Authentication

The purpose of the study was to determine the extent of West African influence on apparel textiles in the United States during the 1960s and 1970s and whether the concept of cultural authentication could be applied to the borrowing of West African textiles for use in the United States. A small number of West African and West‐African‐influenced apparel textiles were found. More illustrations of these textiles were found in Ebony in the 1960s than in other magazines, whereas Mademoiselle had slightly more illustrations in the 1970s. West African textiles were some‐times used in fashionable U.S. garments, an example of selection, one stage of cultural authentication. No evidence of characterization or incorporation was discovered. Illustrations were found of contemporary U.S. styles made from textiles inspired by West African textiles; this may be the fourth stage of cultural authentication, transformation where an original idea has been transformed into a new product.

印象語によるチェック柄分類の試み

We propose a method for grouping apparel graphis patterns making use of impression terms to express sensitivity faculty. For the purpose of proving effectiveness of this method, we applied it to apparel checked patterns. As a result of the examination, 11 kinds of representative terms have been selected. And eighteen monochromatic textile patterns have been classified to 6 kinds of groups and 4 kinds of patterns, using impression terms collected from questionnaires.In this method, impression terms are objectified, and a relation between a pattern group and impression terms is simplified. Creating a user interface for retrieval tool of apparel pattern data base with this method, user would be able to search required apparel textile patterns correctly using some impression terms.

特集 繊維産業のシステム化 １ 繊維産業におけるマーケティングシステム

特集 繊維産業のシステム化 １ 繊維産業におけるマーケティングシステム

Changing Times for the Softgoods Suppliers

Softgoods, a bulwark of retailing, is a $50 billion business at the wholesale level. The softgoods pipeline starts with the cotton farmers and synthetic fiber producers and leads up through the textile mills and apparel manufacturers. Within the pipeline, the profit prospects for textile and apparel industries are undergoing a marked change. The apparel manufacturers enjoyed a position of relative strength in the past decade due primarily to an increasing flow of low-priced textile imports that created domestic overcapacity and low prices in fabrics. Since 1971, however, a more realistic valuation of the dollar relative to other major currencies has eliminated much of foreign textile producers' price advantage. More recently, world shortages and higher prices of both natural and synthetic fibers have widened the raw materials cost advantage of domestic textile producers to the point where imports generally sell at a premium to U.S.-produced fabrics. While these circumstances would, under normal conditions, have generated substantial increases in domestic spinning and weaving capacities to meet the resulting increase in demand, the existence of price controls, originally imposed during a period of depressed textile industry conditions, has held back the workings of the free market mechanism. Thus mills are now having to run at high operating rates to meet even relativity weak softgoods demand at the consumer level. Although price controls are likely to be abandoned soon, the business uncertainties now developing will probably discourage the textile expansion that relaxation of price controls would formerly have invited. What will this mean to the textile and apparel industries? Over the near term, earning performance of both groups could be unfavorable if depressed consumer confidence causes a drawn out recession. Under such conditions, eventual inventory liquidation at the retail level will back up the pipeline at both the apparel and textile stages. But even then, the capacity bottlenecks at the textile manufacturing level would cause the industry's results to hold up relatively well in comparison to those of the apparel industry. When consumer confidence returns, tight fabric supplies will result in firmer price structures and higher and more stable earnings growth for the textile producers and greater relative earnings volatility for the apparel manufacturers. To those familiar with the historic extreme cyclicality of the textile business, relative stability and favorable growth of the textile companies' earnings should be an eye-opener. On the other hand, the apparel companies, whose earnings have grown strongly over the past decade with relatively minor setbacks in the 1970 and 1967 economic downturns, are likely to turn in a relatively disappointing performance. These are the major reasons for the change in the relative positions of the textile and apparel industries: currency exchange rates, agricultural policies and price controls.

Protective Lubrication of Packaging Machinery

MANAGEMENT is vitally concerned with effective and protective lubrication of packaging machinery because of the potential relationship in the preparation of commodities for the market. The range of products is widespread, dealing with foodstuffs, wearing apparel and other textiles, cosmetics and cleansing materials and drugs. Demand requires that their production usually must be continuous; only can this be maintained when the machinery functions dependably.

The Contribution of Apparel and Household Textiles to Burning Accidents

The Contribution of Apparel and Household Textiles to Burning Accidents

Fabric Evaluations Based on Physiological Measurements of Comfort

Physiological factors such as body surface temperature, electrical conductivity of the skin, rate of sweating, total sweat cost, and heart rate were measured as criteria for evaluating in warm and hot environments the comfort afforded human test subjects by textile apparel. To correlate the physiological parameters with individual impressions of comfort and to assess the contributing psychological factors, expressions of subjective opinion of the different fabrics were solicited.

Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles, II

Portion of a research program on the Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles sponsored by the Office of The Quartermaster General and the National Research Council, and conducted by the Textile Division of the Massachusetts Institute of Tech nology, Cambridge, and the Fabric Research Laboratories, Inc., Boston, Massachusetts. Part I, "Tests of Military Fabrics on Quartermaster Combat Course," appeared in the September, 1946, issue.

Wear-Resistance of Apparel Textiles, I

Portion of a research program on the Wear Resistance of Apparel Textiles, sponsored by the Office of The Quartermaster General and the National Research Council, and conducted by the Textile Division of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, and the Fabric Research Laboratories, Inc., Boston, Massachusetts. Part II, "Laboratory Evaluation of Military Fabrics and Correlation with Com bat Course Tests," will appear in a later issue.