Sustainable Textile Production Research Articles

An eco-friendly droplet-wet spinning technology for producing high-quality hemp/cotton blend yarn

In recent years, hemp textiles have gained attention as a sustainable alternative to cotton. However, the uneven fineness and length of hemp fibers, along with their stiffness, adversely affect spinnability and exacerbate yarn evenness and hairiness, particularly due to short fibers. This study introduces a modified sustainable droplet-wet spinning technology aimed at enhancing hemp yarn quality, with a primary focus on reducing yarn hairiness. Implemented on a ring spinning machine, the technology utilizes a syringe connected to an adjustable-speed pump, delivering water onto the front top roller. This innovative approach enhances hemp yarn in two ways: firstly, the cohesive force of water promotes the consolidation of short fibers on both sides of the fiber bundle towards the center, thereby condensing the spinning triangle. Consequently, the fibers on both sides of the fiber bundle are more readily drawn into the spinning triangle and twisted to form yarn; secondly, wet hemp fibers possess a lower modulus, rendering them softer and more deformable, facilitating their embedding into the yarn, thereby enhancing yarn tenacity and reducing yarn hairiness. The study systematically investigates the relationship between droplet-wet spinning parameters (water droplet rate, hemp fiber content of the roving, and yarn twist multiplier) and hemp yarn quality. Experimental results reveals that optimal droplet-wet spinning lead to a 22% increase in yarn tenacity and about 50% reduction in hairiness. A higher hemp fiber content in the roving contributes to better performance of droplet-wet spinning technology in enhancing yarn quality. Moreover, droplet-wet spinning enables the production of high-quality hemp yarn at lower twist multipliers, thereby reducing electricity consumption during yarn production. Subsequently, the performance of knitted fabrics made from conventional ring-spun yarn and droplet-wet spun yarn was compared and analyzed. The results indicate that fabric made from droplet-wet spun yarn exhibits an approximately 8% increase in bursting strength and a one-level improvement in pilling resistance. This research highlights the potential of droplet-wet spinning technology to enhance hemp yarn quality and promote sustainable textile production.

Down flow jet-loop reactor with NF-RO membrane system for the treatment of textile wastewater

Textile industries are significant consumers of fresh water, extensively using it for washing and dyeing processes. The effluent from these operations contains various chemicals, including complex synthetic dyes, NaCl and Na2SO4 necessitating efficient treatment before discharge into water bodies. Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) technology facilitates complete water recovery but leads to substantial solid waste accumulation, which poses challenges for reutilization. This study introduces an innovative approach using a Downflow Jet Loop Reactor combined with ozone and activated carbon to effectively remove color and Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD) from textile effluent. Furthermore, a combination of Nanofiltration (NF) and Reverse Osmosis (RO) membrane systems ensures comprehensive purification by effectively separating inorganic salts. Experimental results demonstrated a maximum color removal of 81.25 % from the textile effluent. The fabricated PSF/PVDF NF membrane exhibited exceptional capacity for rejecting divalent salts. Additionally, the RO reject, which is a concentrated solution of salts and contaminants, was successfully reused in a dye bath for cotton fabric dyeing. This approach highlights the practicality, sustainability, and resource conservation potential within the textile production cycle. It underscores the importance of a comprehensive water treatment strategy for achieving sustainable textile production.

Optimizing yarn properties through response surface methodology: Finding the ideal flax and cotton fiber proportion in blended yarns by using design‐expert software

AbstractThe textile industries are looking forward to sustainable textile products. The bio‐based products are very important for protecting the environment, reducing carbon emissions, eliminating chemical pollution, and preserving the resources. These products provide economic advantages and strengthen communities with customer expectations for environmentally friendly items. In addition, sustainable practices encourage innovation and contribute to a healthier and adaptable environment, making them an essential textile product. Here the natural flax fiber plays a vital role due to its eco‐friendly behavior. Cotton‐flax blended yarns are manufacturing for perfect use of natural fibers and getting the better quality yarn than single product yarn. Here in this work it was trying to find out the perfect blending ratio by using Design‐Expert software. Because different blended ratio contain different characteristics. So it was trying to find out a perfect blending solution from the thirteen different ratios by using Design‐Expert software. This software analyses the blended ratios through statistical analysis. This study focuses on the unevenness (U%), imperfection index (IPI), hairiness (H%), tenacity (cN/tex) and elongation at break of the blended yarn. During the analysis the actual and predicted values were checked and it shows good significance, the correlation and regression analysis highlight the results of the samples summary. The findings of the study have great impact on the quality of cotton‐flax blended yarn, which impact on the quality of textile products. This work not only helps to understand cotton‐flax blending using Design‐Expert software, but it also highlights the possibility of using the perfect blended ratio by giving a solution.Highlights To identify the perfect blended ratio of flax and cotton fiber for producing blended yarn. Design‐Expert software has been used to find out the perfect response through yarn properties surface methodology. Thirteen experimental runs were trailed to find the perfect result.

Investigation of Dyeing Synthetic Fabrics by Using Bacterial Colorants for More Sustainable Textile Production

Polyester and polyamide fibers are the most commonly used textile fibre globally. For this reason, studies conducted on the production and dyeing of synthetic fabrics, especially polyester fabrics, have a significant environmental impact. In this study, it was aimed to put forward a more sustainable way to dye synthetic fabrics. Even if plant dyes are a good alternative for sustainable dyeing in the absence of synthetic dyestuff, the usage amount of plant dyestuffs is high and consistency is low. Bacterial dyeing can be a good alternative for more sustainable synthetic fabric dyeings due to consistent production and free of petroleum-based dyestuffs. Within the scope of this study, 100% polyester and %100 polyamide woven fabric were dyed using 3 different receipts with 3 different bio-colors, the most suitable dyeing methods were determined for both polyester and polyamide fabric. Quality control parameters were checked regarding color depth, washing and rubbing fastness. The findings reveal that polyamide fabrics have higher K/S values compared with polyester fabrics while dyeing with the same receipt and process. pH adjustment and adding salt are necessary to get better results for dyeing pink and brown polyester. Only adding dyestuff to the dyeing bath is enough to dye polyester in blue color. On polyamide fabrics, most suitable dye bath includes salt and pH is 4 to dye pink and brown. But for the blue color, adding salt and adjusting pH to 4 gives better results in polyamide fabric.

Zero-Waste Plant Dyeing: A Feasibility Study on Utilizing Agricultural Waste for Sustainable Textile Production in the Lingnan Region

This research delves into the zero-waste plant dyeing concept, emphasizing the utilization of agricultural waste for dyeing materials to curtail expenses and foster a sustainable natural cycle. The study's objective is to innovate product designs using plant dyes and agricultural waste in a zero-waste dyeing framework. The Lingnan region, renowned for its traditional textile dyeing methods, serves as a case study to assess the dyeing method's efficacy through experiments. The agricultural waste materials encompass crop residues, fruit peels, shells, and more, which are used alongside traditional plant dyes for dyeing various textiles. The textiles are then evaluated on color fastness, intensity, and other dyeing attributes. The findings indicate that agricultural waste dyes are not only sufficient but also yield results that are on par with or surpass those of traditional plant dyes. The adoption of zero-waste plant dyeing not only reduces costs but also supports a circular economy through a closed-loop system. The research concludes that zero-waste plant dyeing is viable in the Lingnan area for creating sustainable product designs, minimizing waste, and reducing costs. The dyeing experiment offers significant insights into the efficiency and effectiveness of agricultural waste as dyeing materials, underscoring the sustainability of this approach for textile production.

Physicochemical Characteristics and Dyeing Properties of Novel Cellulosic Fibers Derived from Sustainable Agricultural Waste

Development of new innovative sustainable fibres from agricultural waste are in great demand these days. For the expansion of these fibres at commercial level, understanding about physicochemical properties of these fibres and specifically their dyeing behavior is essential. In this consequence, in the present study, a natural lignin-cellulosic fibers were extracted by a simplistic route, from lotus silk. The fibers were turn in to yarn by hand twisting and then natural as well as chemical dyeing was performed by the standard dyeing method established for cotton dyeing. Natural henna dye, C.I Reactive blue and indigo dye was used in the present study. Physico chemical properties and dyeing mechanism of the prepared fibers were studied and analyzed in detail in comparison with cotton cellulosic fibres. The lotus fibers were described for their organic construction and morphology by FT-IR spectroscopy and Scanning Electronic Microscopy respectively. Tensile strength, moisture regain and elongation percentage at break were also evaluated. The outcomes revealed that lotus fibers are cellulosic in nature same as cotton but with higher moisture absorption and lower crystallinity as compared to cotton fibers. Lotus fibers revealed higher color strength and color co-ordinates when compared to cotton fibers dyeing. Hollow and irregular fiber surface of lotus fibers along with higher moisture absorption and low crystallinity are the major reasons for higher chemical reactivity and absorption of dyes. The tensile strength and elongation observed in lotus fibers are suitable to be used these fibers in textile products. Lotus fibres from the agricultural waste can be a new source of sustainable textile products for future applications.

Bulk industrial production of sustainable cellulosic printing fabric using agricultural waste to reduce the impact of climate change

In this research paper, a novel process was developed for reactive printing of cotton fabric, with the objective of producing a high-quality printed fabric that is sustainable, eco-friendly, and low-cost which will ultimately reduce the impact of climate change. The study incorporated substituted tamarind polysaccharide (STP) obtained from agricultural waste, trichloro-ethanoic acid (TCEA), and polyethylene glycol (PEG-400) in the reactive printing paste. Tamarind starch was extracted from the seeds having 72 % yield, and substitution was performed to use it as a thickener in the printing paste. The conventional printing system was formulated with sodium alginate, urea, and sodium bicarbonate at dose levels of 2 %, 15 %, and 2.5 %, respectively, while the modified recipe was formulated with STP and TCEA at 5 % and 3 % dose levels, respectively along with varying doses of PEG-400 (0 %, 1 %, and 2 %) in novel prints. Various factors such as shade comparison, penetration, staining on the white ground, washing, rubbing, light and perspiration fastness, sharpness of edges, and fabric hardness were evaluated for all the recipes. The study demonstrated that the optimal outcomes were obtained with a 2 % PEG-400 dose level. This study represents a significant contribution to sustainable textile production, as tamarind agriculture waste was used as a raw material, which is an environmentally friendly alternative of sodium alginate that reduces the wastewater load. Additionally, PEG-400 was utilized as a nitrogen-free solubilizing moisture management substitution of urea for printing, while TCEA dissociated at high temperature to make alkaline pH during curing of the printed fabric to replace sodium bicarbonate. This research is a novel contribution to the printing industry, as these three constituents have not been previously used together other than this research group, in the history of reactive printing.

Identification of six genomic regions associated with pigment intensity in alpacas

Context Currently, there is a growing consumer demand for more ecologically sustainable practices in the textile industry. Fabric dyeing is highly pollutive, and one way to avoid dyeing is to use naturally coloured fibres. Alpacas exhibit a wide range of fleece colours, thereby making them a good source of fibre for sustainable textile production. Our understanding of the colour genetics of alpacas is improving, but there is still no explanation for all the variation seen in alpaca coat colours. Aims To identify a region or regions in the alpaca genome that contribute to differences in pigment intensity. Methods Colorimetric analysis using L*a*b* colourspace of fibre from white and black alpacas, that had been genotyped using the Neogen Australasia alpaca coat colour test, was used to classify the samples into intense and dilute groups for each colour. Illumina short-read genotyping by sequencing of the DNA from these alpacas was used to identify single nucleotide polymorphisms that were subsequently used in a case–control genome-wide association study (GWAS) comparing the extreme dilute and intensely pigmented animals. Key results Intense eumelanic fibre is darker (P = 0.0003), less red (P = 0.004), and more blue (P = 0.001) than is dilute eumelanic fibre. Intense pheomelanic fibre is darker (P = 1 × 10−7), more red (P = 3 × 10−20), and more yellow (P = 2 × 10−6) than is dilute pheomelanic fibre. The GWAS showed six regions of genome-wide significance. After manual inspection of these six regions, the best candidate region was upstream of KITLG, a gene previously associated with pigment intensity in dogs. Conclusions In combination with ASIP genotype, a regulatory mutation in a region upstream of KITLG in alpacas potentially has a major effect on pigment intensity in the species. Implications Successful identification of a marker for pigment intensity will allow breeders to select more precisely for breeding and production animals that will assist them in supplying the desired fibre colours to the textile industry.

A decision support system for sustainable textile product assessment

Given the significant scale of the textile industry, there has been rising global concern over the sustainability of this sector. Consumers’ satisfaction with textile materials plays a pivotal role in sustainable textile products in competitive markets. There have been limited studies on understanding customers preferences and the selection criteria for sustainable textile products in developing countries, where the uncertainties of demand and supply abound. The sustainability impact of textile products in developing countries has not been thoroughly investigated in previous studies. This study aims to examine sustainability criteria to evaluate the selection of sustainable textile products. Thus, using a case study of the textile industry in Nigeria, this paper provides a fuzzy decision support system to analyze the selection of sustainable textile products in the country's textile industry. The study employed an integrated fuzzy best-worst method and fuzzy inference systems to evaluate textile products. The fuzzy best-worst method was used to calculate the weight of each criterion while a fuzzy inference system was employed to select the best product. The proposed method was utilized in a real-world case study, and some managerial implications were determined. Based on three distinctive evaluative assessments, the proposed method was shown to be valid and robust.

Characterization of Textile Grade Novel Bauhinia Vahlii Fiber

ABSTRACT Increasing demand for bio-degradable, eco-friendly, and sustainable textile products to confront environmental pollution accelerates the research on natural fibers. Researchers are also in search of novel natural fibers to be used in different textile products. The present study attempts to extract textile-grade novel Bauhinia vahlii fibers (BVFs) from the Bauhinia vahlii (BV) plant bark. Textile grade BVFs were obtained by treating the BV plant bark with 15% (w/w) sodium hydroxide solution (NaOH) at 95°C for 2 h, followed by manual fiber extraction. The extracted BVFs were analyzed for physical, chemical, morphological, structural, mechanical, and thermal characteristics. Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy and chemical analysis revealed that the extracted fiber contains 75.8% holocellulose and 13.7% lignin. The physical analysis demonstrated that BVFs have 10.5% moisture content, 1.47 gm/cm3 fiber density, and 15.77 microns average fiber fineness. X-ray diffraction (×RD) confirmed that BVFs have 56% crystallinity. Thermogravimetric study revealed that the BVFs could be thermally stable up to 233.4°C. Outcomes of all the analyzes indicate that the extracted fiber can be used to convert them into yarn by blending with some short-staple fiber.

NATURAL DYEING OF BULDAN HANDWOVEN FABRICS WITH PLANT SHELL EXTRACTS: A STEP TOWARDS SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE

Sustainable textile production has become widespread among the world due to high consumption of energy and water in the conventional textile methods. Traditional handwoven Buldan fabrics may be one of the alternatives as sustainable textile products which may be also naturally colored with the environmentally friendly natural dye sources. This study has been performed to reveal that handwoven naturally colored Buldan fabrics with different plant extracts such as walnut, acorn shell and onion skin may provide satisfying tensile and fastness properties. According to the test results; The fabric tenacity results indicated that a prominent deterioration was not observed with the natural dyeing process among the fabric samples. Tear strength results varied regarding to the fabrics’ raw material but did not vary significantly according to applied natural dye extract. A slight decrement for washing, water and perspiration fastness results was observed when the undyed samples were compared with their dyed counterparts. Samples dyed with onion skins generally revealed lower washing, water and perspiration fastness results compared to those dyed with walnut and acorn shell for each fabric type. Dry rubbing fastness results were more satisfying than wet rubbing fastness results.

Application of the Optimized Pre-ozonation Treatment for Potential Resource Recovery from Industrial Textile Effluent

ABSTRACT Treatment of the textile effluent becomes complex due to the high color, organic load, dissolved solids content, and toxicity of the textile effluents. An optimized pre-ozonation treatment has been proposed, aimed at the maximum color and organics removal leading to possible resource recovery at the field-scale. The standalone ozonation at optimum conditions of pH, salinity, and dye concentration resulted in the color removal and chemical oxygen demand (COD) removal of 96.13% and 67.40%, respectively, for synthetic textile effluent. The percentage removal of individual dyes from synthetic textile effluent was also analyzed. The standalone ozonation treatment of real textile effluent at optimum conditions resulted in 94.6% color removal and 67.4% COD removal. The pre-ozonation treatment followed by a sequential batch reactor proved effective in the removal of color (98.6%) and organic load (91.6%) of the real textile effluent. Pre-ozonation enhanced the biodegradability of the textile effluent, as observed by the 81.8% increase in biodegradability index and 126.2% increase in specific oxygen uptake rate. The proposed industrial textile effluent scheme, when applied to the industry producing 3500 kg fabric per day, presented a potential recovery of 157 m3 effluent and 375 kg salt per day, which can result in the net annual saving of about INR 3.7 million, including additional treatment cost. The proposed treatment scheme significantly contributes to sustainable textile production.

How Hands-on Experimentation in Mechanical Textile Recycling Influences Existing Waste Management Systems

A multi-layered critical reflection on how the concept of mechanical textile recycling and hands-on experiments can lead to a more sustainable textile future and at the same time leads to an adaptation of existing systems within the textile value chain. How can a new valuable raw material be obtained from post-consumer textile waste (PCTW)? How can this material be processed and integrated into the textile production chain, and what kind of products can emerge out of it? The discussed applied research project, called Texcycle, was organised by the Product & Textile Research Group at the Lucerne University of Applied Sciences and Arts. The research questions mentioned above were approached step by step with the industry, and new solution strategies were sought in the individual process steps with the partners. The main partners were a textile recycling and sorting company, TEXAID Textilverwertungs AG and the wholesaler Coop Genossenschaft. As the project proceeded, a wool spinner, a nonwoven specialist, and a carpet manufacturer joined for prototyping the products. Texcycle is an Innosuisse financed project that promotes knowledge-based innovation in the interest of the economy and society and supports the collaboration of research institutions and the Swiss industry. Therefore, sustainable textile products produced from local waste streams can act as vehicles for change in the textile industry. The development of products from waste streams is highly complex. In addition to the traditional stakeholder of the textile industry, it also concerns new actors such as the waste and sorting industry, which have to acquire knowledge about the processing of used fibres. The proposed solutions are based on new insights about material composition in the waste stream due to the investigation of fibre content in existing key sorting categories. As a result, new material-orientated sorting categories are proposed, not yet established in the market since the main focus is on types and quality. Due to hands-on material design and development with PCTW, requirements and material properties to replace the virgin stock in the textile production chain were identified. The executed development of yarn and nonwovens in this project demonstrates, on the one hand, feasible future applications and is also a proof of concept from a design and market perspective. The resulting artefacts are key for future adaptation in sorting and production facilities yet an initial change in this complex system. This article focuses on the Soft Systems Methodology (SSM) described by its developer Peter Checkland in relation to the material-led design research project Texcycle dealing with post-consumer textile waste. With its origins in system thinking, the soft-system methodology allows an analysis of complex interlinked structures and further uses models of activity to set up a debate about change.

Using textile industrial sludge, sewage wastewater, and sewage sludge as inoculum to degrade recalcitrant textile dyes in a co-composting process: an assessment of biodegradation efficiency and compost phytotoxicity.

Recalcitrant dyes found in textile wastewater represent a threat for sustainable textile production due to their resistance to conventional treatments. This study assessed an alternative co-composting system for the treatment of recalcitrant textile dyes where textile industrial sludge, sewage wastewater, or sewage sludge were used as microbial compost inocula. The biodegradation efficiency of bioreactor trials and compost quality of the co-composting system were assessed by visible spectrophotometry and by a phytotoxicity test. The co-composting system (dry weight (dw) basis) consisted of 200 g of restaurant organic residues + 200 g sewage sludge (or 100 mL sewage wastewater, or 200 g textile sludge) + 100 mL of a 10% dye solution (Reactive Red 195, or Synolon Brown, or Orange Remazol, or Yellow Synozol, or Reactive Orange 122, or Reactive Black 5). After 60 days of composting, all dyes were biodegraded according to spectrophotometric data, with efficiency varying from 97.2 to 99.9%. Inoculum efficiency ranking was textile sludge > sewage sludge > sewage wastewater. Regarding compost quality, a phytotoxicity study with lettuce showed no toxicity effect. Thus, co-composting can be a low-cost and efficient method for recalcitrant textile dye biodegradation and for managing textile sludge in terms of waste recycling, contributing to environmental sustainability.

Recent Trends in Sustainable Textiles and Apparel Production

Human life is sustainable with food, cloth, and shelter as a basic need. The global textile industry is bound to be huge, as it fulfills the second basic requirement of human. In recent years ecological issues have become more important in the textile and apparel industry, an industry known as a polluting industry despite having a natural and environmentally friendly base. Every textile item releases toxic substances that are harmful to the environment. The traditional textile industry consumes large amounts of natural resources and pollutes the environment by involving a huge amount of toxic chemical substances during the production and wet treatment processes. Sustainability has become an essential attribute of today’s textile industry. The process of transforming the textile industry into a more sustainable one is very sensitive, needs a lot of knowledge, skills, and commitment. This paper reviews the importance, recent trends, and role of governing bodies in sustainable textile production.

Three Futures Scenarios of Policy Instruments for Sustainable Textile Production and Consumption as Portrayed in the Finnish News Media

This research uses futures studies as background methodology and presents three scenarios for sustainable textile production and consumption based on the data of the Finnish news media. The scenarios extend to 2050, and the emphasis is on recognising policy instruments that can potentially support sustainable textile production and consumption. The first data set included 214 news articles from 2019 that were analysed using theory-guided qualitative content analysis. The second data set consisted of five textile experts’ evaluations of the probability and preferability of claims based on the first data set. As a result, a table of futures scenarios was created, including descriptions of the current state and preferable, threatening and probable textile futures. The data show that textile and fashion sustainability issues are strongly presented in the media as part of the comprehensive climate-change-driven criticism of consumerism. The data emphasised a need for a holistic change in production and consumption. The most likely forms of policy instruments appear to be stronger corporate responsibility legislation (regulatory), environmental taxation of goods and services (economic), and eco-labelling of goods and services (information). These help in reaching the preferable scenario for 2050, which suggests a carbon-neutral textile production based on a circular economy.

The Effects of Health Consciousness on Environmentally Sustainable Textile Furnishing Product Purchase

The environmental and health issues in using textile furnishing products have grown, but previous studies have not investigated health‐related antecedents that influence consumers’ purchase intentions of environmentally sustainable textile furnishing products (ESTFP). This study examined the antecedent role of health consciousness influencing consumers’ attitudes, subjective norms, perceived behavioral control, and purchase intention regarding ESTFP. Analysis of data from an Internet‐based survey of 302 US shoppers indicated that consumers with a higher level of health consciousness were likely to have more favorable attitudes, stronger subjective norms, greater perceived behavioral control, and consequently stronger purchase intentions toward ESTFP. The results support the effect of consumers’ health consciousness on ESTFP and extend the application of the theory of planned behavior to the purchase of textile furnishing products.

Eco-friendly dyeing of cellulosic fabric using Direct Red 28 and Direct Blue 15 dyes

<p>Sustainability in textiles is now a day’s key demand of consumers and traders, where the process with zero effluent emission or less emission has been considered for aim to utilize the ecofriendly process in direct dyeing of cotton to minimize effluent load. For this purpose, variable amount of Table salt and Glauber salt has been used to achieve maximum exhaustion during direct cotton dyeing. Different dyeing variables have been employed, shade made at the optimum conditions were assessed according to ISO standards. It has been found that 3g/100mL of table salt for Direct dyeing of cotton using 40mL of DR 28 (8pH) at 65oC for 45 min, whereas using 40mL of DB 15 (8pH) for dyeing of cotton at 65 °C for 45min containing 3g/100mL of Glauber slat has given acceptable color characteristics. The reduction in dyeing variable using low salt amount has proved that this method is cost, time and energy efficient process, which can be utilized for dyeing of natural fabrics using various classes of dyes to obtain sustainable textile products.</p>

Modification of Adapter in Auto Cone Winding Machine for Better Performance

The economy of Bangladesh is largely depending on textile and garments industries at this moment. In this industry the overall demand of quality and cost reduction is increasing constantly along with steadily growing production capacities. For these reasons backward linkage industry like spinning plays a vital role for sustainable textile production in Bangladesh. Winding machine plays a significant role in quality of ring spun yarn in a spinning factory. Modification of adapter used in winding machine is accomplished in this work. Two diameter of adapter such as 58 mm and 68 mm was produced from nylon fibre and attached to the Muratec 21C winding machine. By using these two modified and one conventional metallic adapter three different fineness of yarn such as 30’s Ne cotton, 40’s Ne PC, and 50’s Ne cotton was produced by ring spinning machine in the same processing parameters. Those yarns were wound with 900, 1100, 1300, 1400 & 1500 m/min with original and modified adapters. After winding of yarn different quality parameters like unevenness (%), imperfection index (-), hairiness (-), Count Strength Product (CSP) were tested through Uster Evenness Tester 5 and Ele Stretch XT tester accordingly and compared them. Power consumption was measured by TRINITY (NF29) energy meter. It was found from the analysis of all test results that adapter of 58 mm performed the best; 68 mm made from nylon fibre the better among three along with cost savings is also possible in using nylon adapter.

THE FIBER APPRECIATED AGAIN IN SUSTAINABLE TEXTILE DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: HEMP

Günümüzde çevre dostu yaklaşımların artmasıyla birlikte organik, ekolojik, etik tekstillerin üretimi de yaygınlaşmaya başlamıştır. Bu kapsamda biyobozunur özelliğe sahip bir lif olan kenevir yeniden gündeme gelmiştir. Çevre dostu pek çok özelliği nedeniyle kenevir lifinin sürdürülebilir tekstil tasarım ve üretiminde kullanılması, yavaş moda ve ekolojik moda kapsamında değerlendirilmesini de sağlamaktadır. Ülkemizde de kenevir tarımına izin verilmesi ve desteklenmesi sayesinde hem ekolojik hem ekonomik açıdan yeniden fayda sağlayacak olan kenevir, moda açısından da pek çok avantajı beraberinde getiren bir liftir. Bu çalışmada, kenevir lifinin geçmişteki ve günümüzdeki durumu güncel gelişmeler ışığında ele alınmış, önemli özellikleri ve kullanım alanlarından söz edilmiştir. Dünya üzerindeki aktivistler tarafından daha bilinçli bir tüketici grubu yaratmak amacıyla kurulmuş olan organik ve ekolojik kenevir üretimi yapan işletmeler örneklendirilmiştir. Ülkemizde de tekstil üretimi ve tasarımında değeri yeniden anlaşılan bir lif olan kenevir ile neler yapılabileceği üzerinde durulmuştur. Ayrıca, bu konudaki potansiyeli ortaya koyarak endüstriyel üreticiler, tasarımcılar ve tüketicilerin dikkatinin çekilmesi amaçlanmıştır.