Hair Surface Research Articles

Transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins with strong hair conditioning properties.

With the constant upgrading of healthcare concepts, silicone-free hair products have attracted more attention among consumers. In the present study, transparent silicone-free shampoo containing proteins was successfully fabricated by mixing mild non-sulphate surfactants, compound cationic conditioners, natural silicone oil substitutes, protein conditioners, thickeners, and other auxiliary ingredients. The effects of the type of surfactants, hair conditioners and thickeners, the type and content of proteins, and the mass ratio of compound proteins on the hair foaming performance, hair grooming performance, and penetration performance were investigated. The basic formulation framework for transparent silicone-free shampoo was established at first. Then, various hydrolyzed proteins were further added to the basic formulation in the form of single use or compound use to prepare transparent silicone-free shampoo containing different proteins. The morphology of hair samples and penetration of protein in hair were evaluated with a scanning electron microscope and laser confocal fluorescence microscopy, respectively. And the hair grooming performance was also determined by a dynamic combing tester. The compound proteins of Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD and Gluadin® Kera-PLM with mass ratios of 1:9 and 1:1 at 2 wt% total protein content added to the silicone-free shampoo brought a higher contact angle and a lower frictional coefficient than commercial silicone-free shampoo without proteins. In addition, the compound proteins also have the dual effect of adsorbing the hair surface and penetrating deep into the interior of the hair. The combination of cationic modified hydrolyzed protein (e.g., Croquat WKP PE-LQ-WD) and hydrolyzed protein with low molecular weight (e.g., Gluadin® Kera-P LM) at an appropriate mass ratio exhibited a strong synergistic effect on hair conditioning properties. It could provide a significant reference for developing silicone-free hair products with more benefits.

Effects of temperature, humidity, light, and soil on drug stability in hair: a preliminary study for estimating personal profiles using micro-segmental analysis of corpse hair

PurposeMicro-segmental hair analysis (MSA), which enables detailed measurement of the distribution of drugs in a single hair strand, is useful for examining the day of death and drug use history of a person. However, corpses are often found in severe environments, such as soil and freezers, which affect the drug contents in hair. Therefore, we examined the effects of temperature, humidity, light, and soil on drug stability in hair as a preliminary study to estimate personal profiles using MSA of corpse hair.MethodsFour hay-fever medicines (fexofenadine, epinastine, cetirizine, and desloratadine) were used as model drugs to evaluate drug stability in hair. Reference hair strands consistently containing the four medicines along the hair shaft were collected from patients with hay-fever who ingested the medicines daily for 4 months. The hair strands were placed in chambers with controlled temperatures (− 30 to 60 °C) and relative humidities (ca. 18 % and > 90 %), exposed to light (sunlight and artificial lights) or buried in soil (natural soil and compost).ResultsSunlight and soil greatly decomposed the hair surfaces and decreased the drug contents in hair (up to 37 %). However, all analytes were successfully detected along the hair shaft, reflecting the intake history, even when the hair was exposed to sunlight for 2 weeks and buried in the soil for 2 months.ConclusionsAlthough the exposure to sunlight and storage in soil for long times made drug-distribution analysis difficult, MSA could be applied even to hair strands collected from corpses left in severe environments.

Development and Characterization of Thiolated Cyclodextrin-Based Nanoparticles for Topical Delivery of Minoxidil.

The aim of this research was to prepare adhesive nanoparticles for the topical application of Minoxidil (MXD). Thiolated β-CDs were prepared via conjugation of cysteamine with oxidized CDs. MXD was encapsulated within thiolated and unmodified β-CDs. Ionic gelation method was used to prepare nanoparticles (Thio-NP and blank NP) of CDs with chitosan. Nanoparticles were analyzed for size and zetapotential. Inclusion complexes were characterized via FTIR. Drug dissolution studies were carried out. An in vitro adhesion study over human hair was performed. An in vivo skin irritation study was performed. Ex vivo drug uptake was evaluated by using a Franz diffusion cell. Thiolated β-CDs presented 1804.68 ± 25 μmol/g thiol groups and 902.34 ± 25 μmol/g disulfide bonds. Nanoparticles displayed particle sizes within a range of 231 ± 07 nm to 354 ± 13 nm. The zeta potential was in the range of -8.1 ± 02 mV, +16.0 ± 05 mV. FTIR analyses confirmed no interaction between the excipients and drug. Delayed drug release was observed from Thio-NP. Thio-NP retained over hair surfaces for a significantly longer time. Similarly, drug retention was significantly improved. Thio-NP displayed no irritation over rabbit skin. Owing to the above results, nanoparticles developed with MXD-loaded thiolated β-CDs might be a potential drug delivery system for topical scalp diseases.

A Prospective Study of Dermoscopic and Ultrastructural Features of Vitiligo-Associated Leukotrichia.

Dermoscopic and ultrastructural features of vitiligo-associated leukotrichia (VAL) have not been well studied. This study is aimed at the dermoscopic and ultrastructural features of VAL. We present a cross-sectional study of VAL-related dermoscopic signs and their relationship with disease stages and duration of leukotrichia. Characteristics of hair surface and finer details including melanosomes, macrofibrils, and remnant nucleus were observed under Electron Microscopy (EM). One hundred and forty samples on distinct sites from 100 patients were collected. Among 75 VAL from the scalp, the prevalence of diameter diversity of leukotrichia (52.6% vs 8.1%), Pohl-Pinkus constrictions (34.2% vs 0), and depigmented hair roots signs (34.2% vs 8.1%) in patients with progressive vitiligo was much higher than that in patients with stable vitiligo (all P<0.05). The EM result of VAL showed that melanosomes were smaller with vesicles formation, reduced counts, and incomplete shape, and macrofibrils were irregularly arranged with widened spaces and vesicles formation. No conclusions about the histopathologic characteristics or dermoscopic-histopathologic correlation of the VAL. The dermoscopic signs of diameter diversity of leukotrichia, Pohl-Pinkus constrictions, and depigmented hair roots are related to progressive vitiligo. The process of melanin synthesis and formation of VAL are impaired at the early stage of VAL under Electron microscopy.

Community diversity and co-occurrence patterns of keratinophilic microorganisms in hospital garden soils

The hospital area is an important component of the urban ecosystem and a densely populated place. Hospital garden soil may act as a potential pool of keratinophilic taxa, which are the common skin disease-causing microorganisms in humans. However, the community diversity, co-occurrence properties and keratinophilic groups of soil microorganisms in hospital gardens remain poorly understood. Here, Illumina MiSeq high-throughput sequencing after the addition of a keratin-rich substrate (i.e., chicken feathers) to hospital garden soils was used to assess keratinophilic taxa in hospital (i.e., people’s hospital, traditional Chinese medicine hospital, and orthopedic hospital) garden soils from southern China (i.e., Jiangsu Province, Guizhou Province, and Hainan Province). Feather addition significantly decreased the soil microbial diversity, but increased the relative abundance of the dominant phyla. Keratinophilic microorganism such as Paenibacillus, Paenisporosarcina, Sporosarcina, Lysobacter, and Cellulosimicrobium, increased through feather enrichment. The relative abundances of Bacillus and Streptomyces (keratinophilic bacteria) and Chrysosporium (keratinophilic fungi) increased by 51–98 % in feather enrichment compared to control soils. However, Arthrobacter (keratinophilic bacteria) and Trichoderma (keratinophilic fungi) decreased by 76 % and 90 %, respectively. Co-occurrence network analysis revealed that the number of nodes, edges, average degree, and clustering coefficients of bacterial and fungal were decreased after feather enrichment treatment. The feather enrichment significant decreased the pH and C:N rates, but increased the carbon, nitrogen, and phosphorus contents of the hospital garden soil. Linear mixed model and correspondence analyses showed that pH, total nitrogen and soil organic carbon were the main factors responsible for changes in community diversity and structure. We then speculate that the keratinophilic microbial taxa are enriched by exposure to higher concentrations of keratin substrates such as human hair and skin surfaces. We suggest that future research should focus on keratinophilic taxa in some specialized habitats, particularly in hospitals.

Engineering metalized surface of single hair via electroless Cu-plating strategy for self-supported nonenzymatic glucose sensor

Engineering metalized surface of single hair via electroless Cu-plating strategy for self-supported nonenzymatic glucose sensor

Screening for elevated blood lead levels using single hair strands: Accounting for external contamination

Hair has long been explored as a potential biomarker of lead exposure since lead is readily adsorbed into hair's keratinous matrix; however, the utility of hair as a biomarker for lead exposure is hampered by its susceptibility to external contamination: lead particles attach to the exposed hair surface, confounding estimates of endogenous concentrations. This study describes the development of a hair screening tool, in which the confounding influence of external contamination are mitigated by focusing on the unexposed hair root, to predict elevated blood lead levels (BLLs). This tool requires a single strand of scalp hair, which is analyzed using laser ablation inductively coupled plasma mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). Forty-four (44) workers with high potential for lead exposure, and 63 reference individuals (with no known lead exposure) volunteered for the study. Hair lead level (HLL) thresholds were developed using methods from clinical assessment to screen exceedances of BLL thresholds at 10 and 15 µg/dL. Hair from both groups showed significantly lower lead concentrations in below-scalp portions compared to above the scalp (above-scalp was 11.2 times higher in workers, and 3.7 times higher in reference group). Hair lead concentrations below the scalp in workers significantly predicted BLLs. HLL thresholds for screening BLLs were 0.60 mg/kg and 0.75 mg/kg for BLLs of 10 µg/dL and 15 µg/dL, respectively. These HLL thresholds yielded high sensitivity (>85%), and slightly lower specificity (67% and 33%, for BLL thresholds of 10 µg/dL and 15 µg/dL, respectively). This study provides reference HLLs in non-contaminated portions of hair (<0.097 mg/kg), shows the significance of external contamination on exposed portions of hair even in a reference population, and assesses the effectiveness of below-scalp hair as a biomarker of elevated lead exposure. This hair screening tool effectively predicted BLL exceedances and could be considered as a non-invasive alternative to blood sampling.

Effect of a keratin coupling agent on the mechanical properties of a bovine hair-thermoplastic starch composite

A coupling agent (CA) was obtained through chemical modification of bovine hair. For that purpose, hair waste was treated using two concentrations of potassium hydroxide (KOH), 0.15 and 0.25 N. Treated and untreated hair waste was characterized. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectra showed that alkali treatment caused the formation of thiols (773 cm−1) and sulfonate groups (1063 cm−1 and 1041 cm−1) as a consequence of disulfide bond breakage. Furthermore, the keratin structure was disorganized (1697 cm−1), and functional groups –NH2 (1574 cm−1) were exposed. The vibrational analysis confirmed S–S bond cleavage to form S–H groups. Thermogravimetric analysis indicated an important disorganization of the keratin molecule. Additionally, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) analysis corroborated the protein denaturation due to decomposition of the α-helix. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) showed a clear effect on hair surface integrity, which promotes its interaction with the polymer matrix. Water absorption assays showed that alkaline treatment produces higher absorption due to a greater presence of polar functional groups. With the aim of assessing the CA's ability to act as a compatibilizer in a composite material, it was mixed with thermoplastic cornstarch (TPS) as a polymeric matrix and untreated hair fiber (UHF) as a reinforcing agent. The composites were processed by extrusion and injection molding. Young's modulus, tensile strength, and elongation at break were evaluated, showing higher values for the first two when the percentage of CA was increased.

Formulation and evaluation of conditioning safflower oil shampoo

Frequent use of synthetic hair care products and overuse of grooming results in damaged hair. This leads to growing demand for natural hair care products. Many synthetic harsh chemicals in liquid shampoo leads to dry and damaged hair. An attempt was made to formulate a conditioning shampoo bar with safflower oil. The nutrient rich, weightless oil imparted good conditioning and smoothness to rough hair surface indicated by SEM studies of treated hair with conditioning shampoo bar containing 5% oil. Formulated shampoo bars are found to have various desirable properties like moisturizing, conditioning and nourishing effect on the dry and damaged hair with good grooming, luster, manageability and shine.

The surface and internal features of pubic hair: A comparative study with those of scalp hair.

Although pubic hair has been a subject of public interest, little is known about its structure or characteristics beyond its curly and coarse appearance. In this study, we investigated the surface and internal features of pubic hair from Korean males and compared them to those of scalp hair from the same donors. Our findings indicate that the cuticle layer of pubic hair has a greater number of scales than that of scalp hair, resulting in a thicker cuticle layer overall. Fourier-transform infrared (FT-IR) spectroscopy analysis showed that the protein in the cortex layer of pubic hair was less affected by exposure to urine or ammonia than the protein in the cortex layer of scalp hair. This suggests that the cuticle layer of pubic hair, which is thicker and composed of more scales, acts as a physical barrier that protects the hair's internal structure. Furthermore, we observed that the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin in the pubic hair cuticle layer are essentially different from those in scalp hair. Based on these findings, we hypothesize that the thickened cuticle layer in pubic hair may have evolved as a defence mechanism against chemical damage from urine, urea and ammonia.

Analysis of Morphological Changes on the Hair Surface by Heat Perm Treatment Method

Frequent chemical treatments, such as dyeing and permanent waving, as well as the widespread use of heat-based hair styling devices, like flat irons and curling irons, can cause significant damage to hair fibers, leading to various adverse effects, such as dryness, breakage, split ends, and frizziness. Recently, there has been a trend towards using direct heat perms because they are time-saving, shorter in duration, and less complicated. However, as the damage to hair caused by direct perms increases, this study compares and analyzes the degree of damage to hair fibers caused by both direct heat perms and softening heat perms. Moreover, by comparing, analyzing, and evaluating the morphological changes to the hair surface and cross-section after each type of perm treatment based on hair condition, this study aims to objectively understand the effects of heat perms on hair and provide basic data for further research in this field.

Enzymatic oxidation of tyrosine enantiomers into biomimetic pigments with enhanced performance for hair dyeing

Most natural biomolecules have two enantiomeric forms and can exist in either of them. Despite the L-type homochirality of natural biopolymers composed of amino acids, a great deal of effort has been devoted to the systems in which chirality dictates molecular self-assembly and corresponding properties. Previously, we demonstrated that chemical pre-modification of tyrosine (L-Tyr) inspired by natural eumelanin can obtain colorful pigments and surface coatings, but their characteristics like stability still have development space. Here, the racemic reaction systems of tyrosine derivatives (L/D-Tyr, Boc-L/D-Tyr and Cbz-L/D-Tyr) were designed, and we proved that substrate molecular chirality can affect the reaction rate of the oxidation process, change the intermolecular force and arrangement during assembly, thus influencing the morphology, structures, and properties of the biomimetic pigment materials. At the same time, we found that L + D-tyrosine derivatives can be oxidized and deposited on hair surfaces to obtain the color effect of black and red-brown series, and achieve green-safe biological hair dyeing. Compared with previous studies, it has faster coloring speed, higher color saturation, stronger color fixation stability, good mechanical strength and biocompatibility, providing a new idea for the manufacture of chiral-inspired advanced materials with bio-nanotechnology applications.

Exploring the Effects of Wetting and Free Fatty Acid Deposition on an Atomistic Hair Fiber Surface Model Incorporating Keratin-Associated Protein 5-1.

The complex development of cosmetic and medical formulations relies on an ever-growing accuracy of predictive models of hair surfaces. Hitherto, modeling efforts have focused on the description of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA), the primary fatty acid covalently attached to the hair surface, without explicit modeling of the protein layer. Herein, the molecular details of the outermost surface of the human hair fiber surface, also called the F-layer, were studied using molecular dynamics (MD) simulations. The F-layer is composed primarily of keratin-associated proteins KAP5 and KAP10, which are decorated with 18-MEA on the outer surface of a hair fiber. In our molecular model, we incorporated KAP5-1 and evaluated the surface properties of 18-MEA through MD simulations, resulting in 18-MEA surface density, layer thickness, and tilt angles in agreement with previous experimental and computational studies. Subsequent models with reduced 18-MEA surface density were also generated to mimic damaged hair surfaces. Response to wetting of virgin and damaged hair showed rearrangement of 18-MEA on the surface, allowing for water penetration into the protein layer. To demonstrate a potential use case for these atomistic models, we deposited naturally occurring fatty acids and measured 18-MEA's response in both dry and wet conditions. As fatty acids are often incorporated in shampoo formulations, this work demonstrates the ability to model the adsorption of ingredients on hair surfaces. This study illustrates, for the first time, the complex behavior of a realistic F-layer at the molecular level and opens up the possibility of studying the adsorption behavior of larger, more complex molecules and formulations.

Hair surface interactions against different chemical functional groups as a function of environment and hair condition.

The nature and magnitude of molecular interactions on hair surfaces underpin the design of formulated products, of which the application involves a competitive adsorption process between cationic surfactants, fatty alcohols and surface actives such as silicone. The knowledge of molecular interaction with hair surface will not only provide insight on the surface binding affinity but also offer an effective methodology in characterizing surface deposits. Untreated and chemically treated hair samples were treated with either conditioner chassis alone (gel network) or conditioner chassis plus silicone (chassis/TAS). Hair surface interactions against four different chemical functional groups, namely methyl (-CH3 ), acid (-COOH), amine (-NH2 ) and hydroxyl (-OH), were quantified in both ambient and aqueous environment using Chemical Force Microscopy, a method based on atomic force microscopy (AFM). Surface adhesion on hair in ambient is dominated by capillary force that is determined by both the wettability of hair fibre (hydrophobic vs. hydrophilic), presence of any deposits and the chemical functionality of the AFM cantilever. Capillary force is diminished and replaced by electrostatic interaction when polar groups are present on both hair and AFM cantilever. A distinctively different force, hydrophobic interaction, plays a major role when virgin hair and hydrophobic functionalized AFM cantilever make contact in water. Results acquired by AFM cantilevers of different functional groups show that hydrophobic interaction is a key driver for deposition on virgin hair, whilst electrostatic interaction is the most important one for bleached hair. Interfacial conformation of chassis components upon deposition is determined by the hair surface properties. Our study highlights the possibility of a range of polar groups, not necessarily negatively charged, on the damaged hair. Unlike conventional surface chemical analysis method, it is possible to quantitatively evaluate the interfacial conformation of deposited surface actives on hair, which identifies the target moieties for conditioning products on different types of hair.

The Effect of Improving Demaged Hair by Bleaching Treatment with Adansonia digitata Seed Oil

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata&lt;/i&gt; seed oil on hair damaged by bleaching. Experimental materials were prepared by treating damaged hair that had been bleached 3 times in the following 4 ways. 1) Treatment base (T0), 2) 3% &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata&lt;/i&gt; seed oil treatment (T3), 3) 7% &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata&lt;/i&gt; seed oil treatment (T7), 4) 3% silicone oil treatment (S3). The effect analysis before and after treatment of bleached hair was carried out in the following way. First, to measure the damaged hair, that is, to measure the porosity, the hair to be damaged was placed in a methylene blue solution. Second, to test the dynamic properties of hair, tensile strength and yield strength were measured. Finally, to observe the changes in the morphological structure of the hair surface, electric field emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM) images were employed. The absorbance measurement using methylene blue showed a decrease in the average in hairs dyed with 3% and 7% of &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata&lt;/i&gt; seed oil, indicating that there was a hair improvement effect in hairs dyed with &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata&lt;/i&gt; seed oil. As a result of studying whether the hair bleached containing &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata seed&lt;/i&gt; oil has the effect of improving hair quality, the absorption strength decreased and the tensile strength increased. In addition, absorbance measurement, gloss measurement, and FE-SEM experiments were conducted. As a result, It was confirmed that there is an effect of improving hair quality in terms of the constant arrangement of cuticles on the hair surface and increasing the gloss of the hair. It was found that &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata&lt;/i&gt; seed oil, a natural ingredient, has a high effect on improving hair quality of dyed hair in order to minimize damage to bleached hair. As a result of this research, it is expected that various products will be developed using &lt;i&gt;Adansonia digitata&lt;/i&gt; seed oil.

Interactions of cationic surfactant-fatty alcohol monolayers with natural human hair surface: Insights from dissipative particle dynamics

Fatty alcohols (CnFAs) combined with cationic surfactants are common ingredients of lamellar-phase personal care liquids. We employ mesoscopic modelling to study.how surfactant-CnFA monolayers originating from the corresponding bilayers of the personal care liquids interact with the human hair surface above and below the fluid-gel transition temperature as well as in- and out-of-equilibrium. For the monolayer model, we consider the single-tail cationic surfactant cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC) and an excess of CnFAs with their alkyl tail length equal to or longer than the CTAC alkyl tail length. The hair surface mimics keratin surface proteins covered by a film of lipid chains covalently bonded to the proteins. Our modelling shows the formation of a dense adsorbed layer due to the interactions of the CTAC and CnFA alkyl tails with the hydrophobic hair surface. The adsorption and the behaviour of the adsorbed layer is different under fluid and gel conditions. The differences are related to the structure of the adsorbed layer as characterised by density profiles across the adsorbed layer and the orientational order parameters of the chains within the adsorbed layer. Under steady-state shearing (an approximation of real, non-equilibrium conditions), increasing the shear rate above a threshold leads to continuous or abrupt desorption of the CTAC and CnFA chains under fluid or gel conditions, respectively; the desorbed chains can then form various self-assembled structures in the bulk solution. The underlying mechanism of CTAC and CnFA desorption from the adsorbed layers is closely related to the corresponding adsorption mechanism.

Polyphenols Coordinated with Cu (II) in an Aqueous System Build Ion-Channel Coatings on Hair Surfaces.

Recently, developments in the field of cosmetics have led to a renewed interest in hair dyeing. However, damage to the hair during the dyeing process has increased hesitation in attempting hair dyeing. As a result, hair dyes with minimal side effects have been in constant demand, and are being developed. In this study, natural-extract polyphenols, pyrogallol, and gallic acid are coordinated by CuCl2 in a NaCl aqueous solution to form an oligomer, which creates an ion-channel coating on the hair surface to protect it. This work attempts to develop fast, simple, and damage-free hair-dye ingredients based on pyrogallol and gallic acid. The morphology and elements of polyphenols coated on hair are characterized. The results reveal that the hair is dyed with the polyphenol-based dye reagent successfully. Moreover, the thickness of the dyed hair continuously rises ten times after dyeing. The tensile strength of the dyed hair is also measured, showing an upward and downward trend. These results reflect the fact that pyrogallol and gallic acid are considered to be the essential and functional polyphenols, and can build ion blocks on hair, which can create new multifunctional coating materials.

Induction of autophagy improves skin and hair conditions in dogs with underlying diseases.

Autophagy was reported to play a crucial role in maintaining general and skin health. The study used a synthesized autophagy inducer (AI) (Aquatide™ cospharm Inc.; Daejeon, Korea), for evaluating the effects of autophagy on skin and hair in dogs. Twenty-two dogs with poor skin and hair which were diagnosed with canine atopic dermatitis (CAD) or pituitary-dependent hyperadrenocorticism (PDH) were included. Clinical scores using Canine Atopic Dermatitis Extent and Severity Index-04 (CADESI-04), Pruritus Visual Analog Scale (PVAS) and skin barrier function using measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) were evaluated and canine keratinocytes were also used in vitro investigation of pro-inflammatory cytokines after AI treatment. In the AI group, clinical scores and skin barrier function were improved at week 8 significantly compared to in the other groups. In particular, the AI significantly improved the hair surface damage at 8 weeks compared to the baseline. In vitro, the AI reduced pro-inflammatory cytokines by activating the 78-kDa glucose-regulated protein (GRP78). AI improve skin barrier function and hair damage and reduce pro-inflammatory cytokines by inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS) production in dogs.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models.

Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes. Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber. To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution. Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

Physico-chemical challenges on the self-assembly of natural and bio-based ingredients on hair surfaces: towards sustainable haircare formulations

Polymers and surfactants are used in many technological and industrial applications such as the manufacture of functional materials and coatings, personal care and pharmaceutical products, food science, paints or tertiary oil recover.