Sun Protection Factor Research Articles

Photoprotective Cosmetic Emulsions Based on Brazilian Smectite Clays

Photoprotective cosmetic emulsions have gained significant attention in the cosmetic industry due to their ability to protect against harmful ultraviolet radiation (UV). In this work, photoprotective cosmetic emulsions were prepared by adding 5% natural (Branca and Verde Inferior) and commercial (Brasgel and Cloisite) Brazilian clays to different photoprotective emulsions with and without UVA and UVB chemical filters (EB, EB1 and EB2). All clays were benefited (crushed, milled and sieved) and characterized (X ray fluorescence and X ray diffraction). Additionally, a thermal treatment (120 °C by 24 h) was accomplished in the natural clays, aimed at decontamination. The emulsions were characterized for their organoleptic properties, centrifugation test, viscous behavior, pH values and in vitro sun protection factor (SPF). The cosmetic emulsions prepared without any addition of UV chemical filters presented the lowest in vitro and UVB absorption values because the clays used (Cloisite and Branca) did not have the potential to absorb UV radiation. Although some of the cosmetic emulsions prepared from EB1 and EB2 photoprotective emulsions presented phase separation, all of them presented in vitro SPF values according to the Brazilian standard (above 6), indicating that they have the potential to be used in the cosmetic industry.

Construction of photo-responsive lignin as a broad-spectrum sunscreen agent

Lignin has potential to serve as promising sunscreen agents as it has good ultraviolet (UV) absorption and antioxidant properties. However, the weak absorption capacity of lignin in the long-wave UV region (UVA, 320–400 nm) limits its further development. In this work, a spiropyran-modified lignin (DLSP) with photo-responsive property was prepared by in-situ construction of spiropyran (SP) structure in the demethylated lignin (DL). Due to the presence of SP moiety, the absorption of DLSP in the UVA region was significantly improved. Under UV irradiation, its absorption peak was redshifted as unconjugated SP form isomerized to conjugated merocyanine (MC) form, and the UVA/UVB ratio increased from 0.62 to 0.74. The free-radical scavenging ability of lignin could protect SP from photodegradation, which provided DLSP excellent fatigue resistance. DLSP were blended into creams to investigate its sunscreen performance. Results indicated that DLSP exhibited radiation-enhanced sunscreen performance, the sun protection factor (SPF) of cream containing 10 wt% of DLSP improved from 20 to 67 after 8 h of UV irradiation. Moreover, DLSP showed low skin penetration and good biocompatibility. These results provide a useful guideline for the rational design of sunscreens with special functionalities.

New formulation technology to boost sun protection.

As every skin type worldwide is concerned by photoprotection, with consumers preferring cosmetic elegant and efficient sunscreen products, we aim at developing the most performant and desirable sun care products. We selected an interesting polymer, abbreviated AAHCP and designed scanning electron cryomicroscopy (cryoSEM), small angle and wide angle X-ray scattering and confocal laser scanning microscopy studies to understand its behaviour in solution and in simplex sun care formulations. This allowed us to develop innovative sunscreen formulation technology that was demonstrated by in vitro and in vivo photoprotection methods. Comprehensive photoprotection evaluations were made on the fully developed sun protection product. We observed the polymer oil structuring properties as well as its ability to form small and stable droplets in simplex emulsions. In vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) measurements demonstrated the sun protection boosting efficacy of AAHCP polymer in several emulsions or as a stand-alone emulsifier. This formulation technology also allowed to filtering system concentration optimization. Use-test performed on a fully developed AAHCP-based sunscreen validated its optimal performances as well as its ideal cosmetic features, with non-sticky, non-greasy perception and invisible skin result. For the first time, thanks to a new specific polymer creating a new type of emulsion, we succeed in reconciliate in a single sun care product maximal SPF efficacy, resistance to numerous stresses and optimal sensoriality.

Metabolite bioprospection and expression analysis of patchoulol synthase gene in different in vitro systems of Pogostemon cablin: An important medicinal aromatic plant

Pogostemon cablin (patchouli) is one of the most prized medicinal herbs cultivated worldwide. However, with changes in the bioclimatic patterns and nematode infections in its root, the availability of quality planting material for essential oil extraction has become a challenging task in recent times. In the present research, a synergistic effort based on the identification of the optimal gene expression level of the patchoulol synthase (PS) along with fresh weight (FW), an effective strategy was formulated for the bioprospection of specialized metabolites of patchouli via plant tissue culture based in vitro approaches. The comparative expression levels of the PS gene in various tissues grown in semisolid as well as suspension cultures provided vital insights into its role in the biosynthesis of patchoulol and its associated compounds. Comparatively, cell suspension derived biomass exhibited better efficacy in terms of antioxidant activity (IC50 = 27.88 μg/ml), sun protection factor (SPF = 4.49–20.20), accumulation of both volatile and non-volatile metabolites profiled through ultra performance liquid chromatography and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) along with up regulated PS gene activity (5.01 FC). Interestingly, semisolid culture media derived callus extract also exhibited potent activities establishing the novelty of the approach. The findings illustrate the utilization of aromatic cytokinin – meta-Topolin as a potent elicitor in synergy with conventional elicitors like methyl jasmonate and synthetic growth regulators such as thidiazuron. The current approach also provides vital, reproducible, sustainable and cost-effective method for the bioprospection of prized metabolites in the callus and cell suspension cultures with the goal of up-scaling to pilot scale via coordinated use of next generation bioreactor approaches.

Opuntia ficus-indica seed pomace extracts with high UV-screening ability in a circular economy approach for body lotions with solar protection

Opuntia ficus-indica seed pomace, a by-product of seed oil extraction, was investigated due to its richness of phytochemical compounds and high antioxidant capacity. The pomace was subjected to hydrothermal extraction using water under subcritical conditions to solubilize various compounds. Different final heating temperatures 120 to 220 °C were applied, and the resulting filtered extracts were analyzed using HPLC and HPSEC to determine the monosaccharide profile and molecular weight of the oligomers. Notably, extractions performed at temperatures between 120 and 180 °C yielded extracts characterized by elevated levels of glucuronic acid and exhibited higher molecular weights. In contrast, extractions conducted at 200 and 220 °C were distinguished by their enriched xylose content and relatively low molecular weights, falling below 23.6 kDa. The extracts were tested for total phenolic compounds, as well as antioxidant activity using spectrophotometric methods such as TEAC, DPPH, and FRAP. Results showed that increasing temperature led to a corresponding increase in phenolic compounds (from 7.7 to 13.7 gGAE/100 g) and antioxidant activity, with the maximum observed at 200 °C. These phenolic compounds enriched extract were used to produce a body lotion with sun protection factor of 8, with rheological behavior similar to that of commercially available products but without the need for additional UV filters and antioxidants. The lotion was shown to be safe for topical use and did not cause skin irritation. This study highlights the potential of O. ficus-indica seed pomace as a valuable source of phytochemical compounds and demonstrates the feasibility of using hydrothermal extraction to produce eco-friendly commercially interesting compounds.

Evaluasi Mutu Fisik dan Penentuan Nilai Sun Protecting Factor (SPF) Sediaan Lotion Ekstrak Etanol Daun Matoa (Pometia pinnata)

Indonesia has high sun exposure, and most people work outdoors, so they need skin protection. One plant with the potential as a sunscreen is matoa leaf (Pometia pinnata). This study aimed to determine the physical quality and the Sun Protecting Factor (SPF) value of matoa leaf ethanol extract lotion, which were analyzed in vitro. Physical quality evaluation included organoleptic tests, homogeneity, pH, adhesion and spreadability, and SPF values obtained by the UV-Vis spectrophotometry method. Mansur Formula was used to calculate the SPF value. The results of the study showed FI (0.5%), FII (1%), and FIII (1.5%) obtained an average SPF value of 13.99 ± 1.45 (maximum protection), 22.27 ± 2.06 (ultra protection), 27.42 ± 0.54 (ultra protection). All formulas had good physical quality and had potential as sunscreens. Key words: lotion; matoa leaves; SPF; sunscreen

Optimization of Sunscreen Cream Formulation Containing Ethanolic Extract of Avocado Leaves (Persea americana Mill.) or Mangosteen Rind (Garcinia mangostana L.) Combined with Octyl Methoxycinnamate

Background: Most sunscreens contain chemicals that can cause health and environmental problems. Natural actives can be an alternative to minimize the use of chemicals. Avocado leaves (Persea americana Mill.) and mangosteen peel (Garcinia mangostana L.) contain active compounds that have UV absorption. Objective: In this study, the optimal composition of a mixture of ethanol extracts of avocado leaves or mangosteen peel with octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) was determined based on the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and adhesive properties using Response Surface Methodology (RSM). Material and method: The optimal formula calculated with RSM was then made and underwent a series of tests, including a hedonic test with a scale of 0-9 on 30 respondents, a freeze-thaw stability test, and an accelerated stability test with the Arrhenius equation. Results: The RSM analysis showed that the optimal concentration of extract and OMC was 10% and 0.75% (avocado leaves) & 0.65% (mangosteen peel). The optimized formula resulted in adhesive properties and SPF of 7.41±0.03 and 16.52±0.16 (avocado leaves) & 7.43±0.04 and 15.84±0.15 (mangosteen peel) respectively. Both optimized formulations were physically stable against freeze-thaw and had a t90 of 29 minutes (avocado leaves) and 17 minutes (mangosteen peel). The average hedonic scale obtained was 7.8 (avocado leaves) and 7.9 (mangosteen peel), indicating that both optimized formulations were preferred by the respondents. Conclusions: The sunscreen formulation with an optimized combination of active ingredients from avocado leaf extract or mangosteen peel extract with OMC using RSM results in preparation with SPF value and physical properties that meet the requirements.

Repurposing consumer sunscreen habits and practices survey data to guide the development of UV filter environmental exposure models and risk assessments.

A key factor that is deficient in most environmental emissions assessments for UV filters is a keen understanding of consumer habits and practices that can inform realistic exposure assessments. This study utilized a large volunteer survey (>11 000 persons) that captured many factors that affect consumer-based loadings to aquatic environments. The purpose of this study was to utilize this large survey to identify factors that affect the amount of sunscreen products used by consumers. Correlations among more than 20 variables were used to provide an understanding of the overall dataset and identify factors that may be related to the amount of sunscreen product applied to the body (i.e., application thickness). Forward multiple linear regressions were used to identify the relative importance of each of these factors alone and in combination with others in predicting the amount of applied sunscreen. The proportion of body surface area (BSA) covered by sunscreen was the primary factor related to application thickness, followed by body surface area of the survey participant, seasonal usage, Fitzpatrick skin type and the sun protection factor, respectively. Each of the five regression models examined was statistically highly significant. Comparisons to recommendations from the National Academies of Science, Engineering and Medicine parameters illustrated sufficient differences so as to encourage the development of future consumer habits and practice surveys that include factors beyond the scope of this study (e.g., activities, time of day, year, location, etc.) that can lead to improved exposure and risk assessments.

Phytochemical Study, Biotechnological Applications and Experimental Evaluation of the Pharmacological Quality of Tamarix Africana Stems Fractions

Since antiquity, phytomedicine played a crucial role and many comprehensive texts documenting the medicinal impact of plants were discovered during many civilization eras, suggesting folk medicine is the foundation of modern medicine. This work look into the phytochemical composition, as well as the pharmacological properties, of Tamarix Africana stems organic fractions. The phytochemical study was carried out using phytochemical screening method while phenolic, flavonoids, condensed and hydrolysable tannins contents by spectrophotometric approach. The antioxidant assay was measured using five approaches. Anti-diabetic capacity was investigated with two assays. Furthermore, the cytotoxicity of the extracts was tested against Artemia Salina nauplii and the photoprotective test was assessed using sun protection factor measurement (SPF). Data revealed that both extracts contained phenolic substances, the EA fraction had the highest proportion of phenolics, flavonoids, condensed and hydrolysable tannins (825.47±2.34 μg GAE/mg), (238.4±2.11 μg QE/mg), (8.44±1.05 μg CE/mg), (508.23±3.65 μg TAE/mg) respectively. The antioxidant, antidiabetic, and cytotoxicity of these extracts evolved in dose-dependent manner. EA activity was higher than MeOH extract in antioxidant tests. A moderate antidiabetic effect was expressed by EA extract, while this effect was higher for MeOH extract. A significant cytotoxic and photoprotective effects was observed for both MeOH and EA extracts when compared to the corresponding standards. This study suggests that Tamarix Africana stems has certain pharmacological effects, especially to cure disorders linked to oxidative stress, glycemia perturbation, dermatopathology and some cancers.

Optimization of pressurized ethanol extraction for efficient recovery of hyperoside and other valuable polar antioxidant-rich extracts from Betula pendula Roth leaves

Silver birch (Betula pendula Roth) leaves, known for their long-standing uses in traditional medicine, are bioactive compound-rich by-products of the birch logging industry, abundantly available throughout the northern hemisphere. Considering the current demands for the sustainable valorization of various plant materials and their processing by-products, this study aimed to optimize pressurized ethanol extraction (PLE-EtOH) parameters in order to produce hyperoside and other valuable polar antioxidant-rich extracts from silver birch leaves. A central composite design along with response surface methodology (CCD-RSM) was used to optimize the temperature and time of PLE-EtOH for yield, total phenolic (TPC) and flavonoid (TFC) content, Trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity (TEAC) measured in oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC), cupric ion reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) assays, and hyperoside content measured by ultraperformance liquid chromatography-electrospray tandem mass spectrometry (UPLC-ESI/MS2) analysis. The optimal PLE-EtOH conditions were 86 °C and 39 min, which produced an extract with 32.2% yield, high TPC (97.3 mg gallic acid equivalents/g), TFC (37.3 mg quercetin equivalents/g) and proanthocyanidin (301.2 mg catechin hydrate equivalents/g) content, also strong in vitro antioxidant capacity in ORAC, CUPRAC and ABTS assays (999.3, 297.0 and 392.3 mg Trolox equivalents/g, respectively). Hyperoside (54.1 mg/g), betuloside (18.3 mg/g) and chlorogenic acid (11.5 mg/g) were the prime phenolic compounds in the PLE-EtOH extract. Additionally, a high sun protection factor (37.4 at 1 mg/mL) was determined by in vitro method for this extract. Such products from B. pendula leaves have potential cosmetical, nutraceutical, and pharmaceutical applications.

Uji Antioksidan Ekstrak Dan Formulasi Sediaan Krim Tabir Surya Kulit Delima Putih (Punica Granatum L.) Dengan Metode DPPH Dan Penentuan Nilai SPF

White Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) is a plant that is efficacious as an antioxidant which functions as a natural antioxidant to prevent free radicals from harming the body because it contains flavonoid compounds including flavones and flavonols which are known as natural antioxidants. This study aims to determine the IC50 value of extracts and formulations of white pomegranate skin sunscreen cream (Punica granatum L.) along with its SPF value. The extract was prepared by maceration using 96% ethanol. Testing the antioxidant activity of white pomegranate peel extract (Punica granatum L.) using UV-Vis spectrophotometry with the DPPH method (1,1-Diphenyl-2-Picrylhyrdazyl), the test results showed that white pomegranate peel extract (Punica granatum L.) had an IC50 value of 92,76 ppm in the strong category. Sunscreen cream was made into four formulas, namely F0, FI, FII and FIII with extract concentrations of 5%, 10% and 15% respectively. The physical evaluation was tested, including organoleptic test, homogeneity test, cream type test, spreadability test, adhesion test, pH test, viscosity test and organoleptic stability test which showed that the four formulas met the requirements of the physical evaluation test for sunscreen cream preparations. The four sunscreen cream formulas, an antioxidant activity test was carried out using the DPPH method (1,1-Diphenyl-2-Picrylhyrdazyl) at F0, FI, FII and FIII and obtained IC50 values of 146,9 ppm (weak), 98,22 ppm (strong), 81,37 ppm (strong) and 76,88 ppm (strong). Determination of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) value was carried out using the mansyur equation method using UV-Vis spectrophotometry at a wavelength of 290-320 nm. The results obtained for the SPF values in the four formulas F0, FI, FII and FIII were 6,02 (extra), 14,39 (maximum), 22,98 (ultra) and 27,60 (ultra).

Development of herbal skin care formulations from the hydro-alcoholic extract of Leucas zeylanica (L.) W.T.Aiton

Introduction: Leucas zeylanica (L.) W.T.Aiton is a plant used in traditional medicine as a remedy against several dermatological conditions. The high UV-filtering potential observed for the aqueousmethanolic extract of this plant suggests its suitability to develop herbal skin care agents. Therefore, this study was undertaken to develop herbal skin care formulations from the aqueous methanolic (hydro-alcoholic) extract of the whole plants of L. zeylanica and evaluate the photoprotective efficacy. Methodology: Three formulations were prepared by incorporating different concentrations (25%, 50%, and 75%) of the extract into an aqueous cream base. Thereafter, the UV filtering potential and sun protection factor (SPF) were determined. Results: The formulation comprised of 75% of the extract displayed the highest UV absorbance as well as the highest SPF value (26.76±3.82). All formulations in general exhibited good photostability profiles. The anti-tyrosinase assay revealed very mild tyrosinase inhibitory potential of the aqueous methanolic extract of L. zeylanica. Therefore our formulations do not interfere with the biosynthesis of melanin, the natural photoprotectant molecule in the skin, unlike most commercial sunscreens. Conclusion: The strong and broad-range UV-filtering potential, high SPF and photostability profiles observed for the sunscreen formulation comprised of 75% of the extract suggest the potential utility of L. zeylanica extract for the development of herbal skin care formulations in a commercial scale.

A new isoflavonoid derivative, evaluation of the antioxidant capacity and phenolic content of Genista lobelii DC

The phytochemical investigation of both chloroform and ethyl acetate extracts of Genista lobelii DC from an Algerian endemic plant led to the isolation of a new isoflavonoid Aspalathoidin compound (1) and nine known compounds (laburnetin, isokaempferide, retamasin B, ephedrodin, sakuretin, isoprunetin, genistein −7-O-β-glucoside, derrone-4′-O-methyl ether and eriodictyol-7,3′-dimethylether). Twelve phenolic compounds were identified in ethyl acetate and n-butanol extracts through a qualitative investigation of phenolic compounds using HPLC. Finally, both extracts were estimated for their phenolic and flavonoid contents as well as the evaluation of their antioxidant activity using five different assays DPPH, CUPRAC, ABTS, GOR and the sun protection factor SPF was determined as an index of the photoprotective capacity of the G.lobelii DC extracts. The extract of chloroform and ethyl acetate has good antioxidant and includes significant levels of phenolic and flavonoid components.

Quality by Design-Optimized Glycerosome-Enabled Nanosunscreen Gel of Rutin Hydrate.

Sunburn is caused by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun, resulting in redness of the skin as well as tenderness, swelling, and blistering issues. During the healing process, it can cause peeling, irritation, and some long-term effects, including premature aging, pigmentation, and a high risk of skin cancer. Rutin has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, which could potentially reduce inflammation and soothe sunburned skin. The objective of the current proposal is to develop and create carbopol gel-encased glycerosomes for the treatment of sunburn. The Design of Expert (DoE) technique was used to optimize the proposed formulation and was subjected to various characterization parameters such as nanovesicles size, polydispersity index (PDI), surface charge, entrapment efficiency (EE), and surface morphology. The optimized rutin-loaded glycerosomes (opt-RUT-loaded-GMs) were further characterised for drug release, 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). The formulation showed sustained release, greater permeation into the skin, and good antioxidant activity. The dermatokinetic study of opt-RUT-loaded-GMs confirms that the Rutin hydrate had better retention in the epidermis as compared to the dermis, owing to its potential for long lasting protection after topical application. It was observed that the prepared formulation was stable, highly safe, and had good sun protection factor (SPF) values that could be used as a suitable option for topical drug administration to maximize the therapeutic efficacy of the drugs.

In vivo method for evaluating sunscreen protection against high-energy visible light.

Overexposure to sunlight can have many harmful biological effects on the skin, leading to skin cancer and photoaging. As ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been identified as a cause of DNA damage and oxidative stress in the skin, the photoprotection provided by sunscreens is evaluated through their ability to filter UV light, using the sun protection factor (SPF). However, recent data have shown that high-energy visible (HEV) light can also cause biological skin damage. To develop a new in vivo method for evaluating the protection provided by sunscreens across a broad range of wavelengths, including the HEV band, based on multispectral image analysis. This study evaluated the absorption properties of six commercially available sunscreens (five SPF 50+ products containing organic UV filters, and one product containing the wide spectrum filter, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine [TriAsorB™]) and of a control product containing no filter. Multispectral images were acquired from the skin on the forearms of healthy volunteers, before and after application of the test products. Images taken with LEDs emitting light at wavelengths ranging from UV to infrared were used to generate light reflectance maps for each product. The levels of absorbance of light in the UV and visible bands were then calculated. The product containing the wide spectrum filter exhibited significantly higher absorbance over the HEV band (380-450 nm) than the control product and the other commercial sunscreens. All the sunscreens tested showed the same level of absorbance at 365 nm (UVA). Multispectral imaging provides a simple and reliable in vivo method for assessing the real-world protection provided by sunscreens against all forms of photo-induced skin damage, including that induced by HEV radiation.

Efficacy of sunscreen gel infused with giant tiger prawn (Penaeus monodon) head extract

Excessive sunlight exposure can lead to various minor skin disorders, including sunburn and the development of chronic skin malignancies. One effective preventive measure against these adverse effects is the use of sunscreen. Sunscreen can be derived from natural sources, such as the astaxanthin compound in giant tiger prawns (Penaeus monodon). This study aimed to formulate a sunscreen gel from giant tiger prawn head extract that meets good physical gel standards. Additionally, the study sought to determine the sun protection factor (SPF), erythema transmission level (%TE), and pigmentation transmission level (%TP) through in-vitro testing. The extraction process involved using coconut oil as a solvent using the maceration method. The resultant extract was then evaluated for SPF, %TE, and %TP values and subsequently formulated into gel variants with extract concentrations ranging from 1% to 10%. The findings of this investigation revealed that the giant tiger prawn head extract exhibited SPF, %TE, and %TP values of 8.0±0.11, 18.8±0.25%, and 21.7±0.73%, respectively, categorizing it as providing maximum protection, facilitating fast tanning, and acting as a sunblock. The gel formula containing 8% giant tiger prawn head extract demonstrated the highest sunscreen potential. In conclusion, this study highlights the promising potential of giant tiger prawn head extract as a natural sunscreen ingredient and identifies the optimal gel formula for effective sun protection.

Arbuscular mycorrhizae increase but vermicompost decrease the sun protection factor (SPF) in leaves of Hymenaea martiana Hayne seedlings

This study aimed to select the most efficient combination of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi (AMF) and substrate to increase the photoprotective and in vitro antioxidant activities in Hymenaea martiana Hayne leaves. Hymenaea martiana seedlings were grown in soil with or without 10% vermicompost and inoculated with three AMF species: Acaulospora longula, Gigaspora albida, and Claroideoglomus etunicatum. Seedlings grown in soil without vermicompost or AMF inoculation served as controls. After 148 days of growth in a greenhouse, the photoprotective and antioxidant activities, and the production of some phenolics in the leaves were evaluated. Vermicompost supplementation reduced the photoprotective and antioxidant effects in extracts compared to the control. However regardless of the vermicompost treatment, mycorrhizal colonization resulted in a 40% increase in photoprotective activity compared to control; this enhancement was correlated with the increased concentration of proanthocyanidins in mycorrhizal plants. AMF inoculation improves the quality of H. martiana phytomass, dispensing the application of vermicompost in the cultivation substrate. This is the first report on the potential of AMF and vermicompost to increase the sun protection factor in H. martiana leaves.

Recent developments in tuning the efficacy of different types of sunscreens.

Due to recent global warming threats, the changes in the atmosphere have caused significant ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure, primarily emitted by the sun, which creates more awareness of photoprotection. Sunscreen development has been a convenient and crucial approach to photoprotection against ultraviolet radiation. Due to high demand, upgrading the quality of sunscreen products and certifying methods are necessary to guarantee the safety of commercial sunscreen products for use. Sunscreen products should have a satisfactory amount of sun protection factor (SPF), ultraviolet A protection factor, as well as the photostability of the sunscreens for them to be considered effective and safe for use. A rigorous study on the effectiveness of the sunscreen components and their safety standards is essential for the productive use and further improvement of the available sunscreen materials. This article summarizes the effects and issues, protective measures of sunscreen usage, and its components, mainly ultraviolet filters.

Identification of polyphenols using UPLC-QTOF MS/MS, in-vitro photoprotective and antiaging activities of brown macroalga Padina tetrastromatica

Brown algae produce several bioactive compounds including unique secondary metabolites like polyphenols, which are known for various pharmacological activities. The present study focused on the cosmeceutical properties of polyphenol-rich fraction from brown macroalga (Padina tetrastromatica). Two fractions (ethyl acetate and aqueous) were obtained by liquid-liquid purification. Total phenolic and phlorotannin contents were assessed by in-vitro methods (Folin-Ciocalteu test and 2,4-dimethoxybenzaldehyde assay). Antioxidant properties were assessed through 2,2-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity, nitric oxide radical scavenging activity, and ferric-reducing antioxidant power assay. Ethyl acetate fraction showed high radical scavenging activity and was used for in-vitro photoprotective assays, cell viability tests, and anti-aging related enzyme inhibition tests (anti-tyrosinase, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase). Ethyl acetate fraction showed potential ultraviolet A absorption and a strong sun protection factor (SPF) value and was not toxic to the human skin cell line up to a concentration of 100 μg mL−1. Interestingly, this fraction also showed a strong tyrosinase inhibition and a significant inhibition of elastase and collagenase enzymes. Major polyphenols including phlorotannins present in the fraction were identified using Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, Ultra pressure liquid chromatography (UPLC)-quadrupole-time of flight (QTOF) mass spectrometry (MS) and NMR spectroscopy. The findings suggest the ethyl acetate fraction of P. tetrastromatica as a promising source for cosmetic use with photoprotection and anti-aging properties.

Sun protection factor and tyrosinase inhibitory activity of several plant secondary metabolites

Severe exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays leads to skin damage, including hyperpigmentation, freckles, melanoma, age spots, and melasma, all of which are related to the skin pigment enzyme, tyrosinase. Prevention can be achieved by avoiding harsh UV rays and inhibiting tyrosinase catalytic activity. Many compounds have been developed for the treatment of such conditions; however, most come with unwanted side effects. The purpose of this study was to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) value and tyrosinase enzyme inhibitory activity of plant secondary metabolites with high antioxidant activity, namely rutin, catechin, niazirin, piperine, quercetin, and quercitrin, as potential alternatives. Both tests were carried out using UV-Vis spectrophotometry. SPF determination was performed by observing the absorbances across a wavelength range of 290 to 320 nm. The determination of anti-tyrosinase activity was conducted by measuring dopachrome at 490 nm after enzymatic reactions and calculating the IC50 value. In the SPF assay, benzophenone-3 was used as the standard, and piperine, rutin, quercetin, and quercitrin exhibited high protective abilities with SPF values above 30 at 500 µg/mL. In the tyrosinase inhibition assay, kojic acid as the standard showed a strong potential for inhibition with an IC50 of 33.65 µg/mL, while quercetin, rutin, and piperine exhibited weaker inhibitory potential with IC50 values of 178.44, 271.73, and 347.62 µg/mL, respectively. On the other hand, quercitrin and niazirin showed little to no tyrosinase inhibition activity. However, catechin demonstrated more catalytic activity towards the enzyme. In conclusion, quercetin, rutin, and piperine have the potential to be developed as active ingredients to protect the skin from UV-induced damage due to their satisfactory SPF values and tyrosinase inhibition activity.