Abstract The history of one firm dedicated to the development, manufacture and sale of false teeth might not immediately seem relevant to current topics and concerns within the study of fashion and beauty. ‘Good’ teeth have become important aesthetically and practically, in ‘real’ life and in media imagery. They pervade the catwalk, the media and the beauty industry. The ‘falseness’ of false teeth is not just a matter of utility but also of looking good, and has become part of the necessary toolkit of a person who knows how to take care of themselves, and look attractive. False teeth must look ‘real’ but also perfect (better than real), since they represent both the desire for physical perfection and for enhancement that is not detectible as false. Alongside prosthetics and cosmetic surgery, false teeth have come to be legitimate tools of bodily enhancement. The term ‘Hollywood smile’ partly refers to that ideal of flawless perfection. This article is an analysis of ‘naturalization’ in several senses, involving migration of knowledge, technological advances, skills and capital between differing legislative, business and political environments – from Eastern Europe and the United States towards the end of the nineteenth century, and between Philadelphia and Palestine shortly after World War I. This historical investigation traces the aspirations, ideals and political motivations of a family, its founder and the firm they built up – the American Porcelain Tooth Company (APTC) – which became internationally renowned after its relocation from Philadelphia to Tel Aviv in Palestine, then under the British Mandate, after World War I. The specific history and context of this company aims to shed new light on issues of globalization that are key to contemporary concerns in the fashion and beauty industries but are not captured by the study of technological inventions, marketing strategies or consumer preferences. The article interrogates the complex political negotiations and adaptations involved in such a migration. It proposes that beyond the specific historical context of the case examined here, attention paid to political aspects provides an essential methodological component and an added dimension to our understanding of the dynamics of the fashion and beauty market.
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