Stratum Corneum Lipid Model Research Articles

Palmitoylation enhances short polar peptide permeation across stratum corneum lipid bilayer: A molecular dynamics study

Designing chemical molecules that target the skin for non-invasive transdermal drug delivery is of significant interest for both wound healing and skincare applications. These skin-targeting molecules must permeate the outermost protective layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), which consists of dead corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix, to fulfill their biological functions. Adsorption onto and diffusion through the lipid matrix in the SC represent two key steps for the successful permeation of a skin-targeting molecule across the SC into the underlying skin layers. Here we compare the effects of cyclization and palmitoylation on the adsorption and diffusion of a short polar peptide across a model SC lipid bilayer using molecular dynamics simulations. The cyclized peptide showed slightly better binding to the SC lipid bilayer and similar interaction energies with SC lipids compared to the unmodified peptide. In contrast, the palmitoylated peptide exhibited much stronger interaction with SC lipids via insertion of its attached fatty acid tail into the SC lipid bilayer. The average diffusivity of the cyclized peptide across the SC lipid bilayer was approximately twice that of the unmodified peptide, whereas the palmitoylated peptide’s diffusivity was about 2.7 times higher. Thus, palmitoylation appears to be a promising strategy for enhancing the binding and permeability of short polar peptides across the SC lipid matrix.

Mechanisms of the Drug Penetration Enhancer Propylene Glycol Interacting with Skin Lipid Membranes.

Very few drugs have the necessary physicochemical properties to cross the skin's main permeability barrier, the stratum corneum (SC), in sufficient amounts. Propylene glycol (PG) is a chemical penetration enhancer that could be included in topical formulations in order to overcome the barrier properties of the skin and facilitate the transport of drugs across it. Experiments have demonstrated that PG increases the mobility and disorder of SC lipids and may extract cholesterol from the SC, but little is known about the molecular mechanisms of drug permeation enhancement by PG. In this work, we have performed molecular dynamics (MD) simulations to investigate the molecular-level effects of PG on the structure and properties of model SC lipid bilayers. The model bilayers were simulated in the presence of PG concentrations over the range of 0-100% w/w PG, using both an all-atom and a united atom force field. PG was found to localize in the hydrophilic headgroup regions at the bilayer interface, to occupy the lipid-water hydrogen-bonding sites, and to slightly increase lipid tail disorder in a concentration-dependent manner. We showed with MD simulation that PG enhances the permeation of small molecules such as water by interacting with the bilayer interface; the results of our study may be used to guide the design of formulations for transdermal drug delivery with enhanced skin permeation, as well as topical formulations and cosmetic products.

A Stratum corneum lipid model as a platform for biophysical profiling of bioactive chemical interactions at the skin level

Stratum Corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammalian skin, provides the first and most challenging barrier to skin permeation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical compounds. SC barrier function relies primarily on the complex structure and organization of the intercellular lipid matrix. This matrix consists mainly of ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol) in an equimolar ratio, forming a multilamellar structure with short- and long-periodicity phases. Along with permeation studies, it becomes paramount the molecular investigation of the interaction between the lipid matrix and the compounds, towards a comprehensive picture of their biophysical impact, including lipid packing impairment, which can result in skin damage, and in consequences for their permeation and mechanism of action. In this study, a lipid-based model (CER[EOS]:CER[AP]:Chol:FFA) was developed to accurately resemble the barrier properties of the intercellular lipid matrix. In a monolayer assembly, this SC lipid model was characterized and applied as an in vitro platform to explore interactions with model compounds – caffeine and testosterone – following OECD recommendations. The SC model successfully mimicked different barrier properties of the SC’s lipid matrix, and its interactions with the model compounds were discussed closely aligned with existing data, including in vitro permeation studies using human and animal membranes. This SC model can be a step forward towards the development of new in vitro platforms for investigating the skin barrier function and the interactions with external molecules. Moreover, the composition of these platforms can be easily modified to mimic impaired lipid matrices to study different skin conditions, providing valuable insights for both cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

Effect of sphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramide ratio on lipid arrangement and barrier function in skin lipid models

The lipids in the uppermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), play an important role in the skin barrier function. The three main subclasses in the SC lipid matrix are ceramides (CER), cholesterol, and free fatty acids. In inflammatory skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, the SC lipid composition is modulated compared to the composition in healthy SC. One of the main alterations is the molar ratio between the concentration of CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-sphingosine (CER NS) and CER N-(tetracosanoyl)-phytosphingosine (CER NP), which correlated with an impaired skin barrier function. In the present study, we investigated the impact of varying the CER NS:CER NP ratios on the lipid organization, lipid arrangement, and barrier functionality in SC lipid model systems. The results indicate that a higher CER NS:CER NP ratio as observed in diseased skin did not alter the lipid organization or lipid arrangement in the long periodicity phase encountered in SC. The trans-epidermal water loss, an indication of the barrier functionality, was significantly higher for the CER NS:CER NP 2:1 model (mimicking the ratio in inflammatory skin diseases) compared to the CER NS:CER NP 1:2 ratio (in healthy skin). These findings provide a more detailed insight into the lipid organization in both healthy and diseased skin and suggest that in vivo the molar ratio between CER NS:CER NP contributes to barrier impairment as well but might not be the main factor.

Cholesterol sulfate fluidizes the sterol fraction of the stratum corneum lipid phase and increases its permeability

Desulfation of cholesterol sulfate (CholS) to cholesterol (Chol) is an important event in epidermal homeostasis and necessary for stratum corneum (SC) barrier function. The CholS/Chol ratio decreases during SC maturation but remains high in pathological conditions, such as X-linked ichthyosis, characterized by dry and scaly skin. The aim of this study was to characterize the influence of the CholS/Chol molar ratio on the structure, dynamics, and permeability of SC lipid model mixtures. We synthesized deuterated CholS and investigated lipid models with specifically deuterated components using 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25°C to 80°C. Although the rigid acyl chains in ceramides and fatty acids remained essentially rigid upon variation of the CholS/Chol ratio, both sterols were increasingly fluidized in lipid models containing higher CholS concentrations. We also show the X-ray repeat distance of the lipid lamellar phase (105 Å) and the orthorhombic chain packing of the ceramide’s acyl chains and long free fatty acids did not change upon the variation of the CholS content. However, the Chol phase separation visible in models with high Chol concentration disappeared at the 50:50 CholS/Chol ratio. This increased fluidity resulted in higher permeabilities to model markers of these SC models. These results reveal that a high CholS/Chol ratio fluidizes the sterol fraction and increases the permeability of the SC lipid phase while maintaining the lamellar lipid arrangement with an asymmetric sterol distribution.

Cholesterol sulfate fluidizes stratum corneum lipid models and induces higher permeability

The stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis and protects the body from excessive water loss and xenobiotics. It is composed of corneocytes embedded in a continuous lipid matrix. This matrix is mandatory for the barrier function of the skin and consists of mainly crystalline free fatty acids, ceramides and cholesterol/-esters in a 1:1:1 molar ratio. Cholesterol sulfate (CSO4) as the most abundant ester of cholesterol (Chol) with up to 15 mol% of the total amount of sterols presents a lipid with a big polar headgroup in contrast to most of the other lipids in the SC.

Cerosomes as skin repairing agent: Mode of action studies with a model stratum corneum layer at liquid/air and liquid/solid interfaces

The stratum corneum (SC) is the largest physical barrier of the human body. It protects against physical, chemical and biological damages, and avoids evaporation of water from the deepest skin layers. For its correct functioning, the homeostasis of the SC lipid matrix is fundamental. An alteration of the lipid matrix composition and in particular of its ceramide (CER) fraction can lead to the development of pathologies such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis. Different studies showed that the direct replenishment of SC lipids on damaged skin had positive effects on the recovery of its barrier properties.In this work, cerosomes, i.e. liposomes composed of SC lipids, have been successfully prepared in order to investigate the mechanism of interaction with a model SC lipid matrix. The cerosomes contain CER[NP], D-CER[AP], stearic acid and cholesterol. In addition, hydrogenated soybean phospholipids have been added to one of the formulations leading to an increased stability at neutral pH. For the mode of action studies, monolayer models at the air-water interface and on solid support have been deployed. The results indicated that a strong interaction occurred between SC monolayers and the cerosomes. Since both systems were negatively charged, the driving force for the interaction must be based on the ability of CERs head groups to establish intermolecular hydrogen bonding networks that energetically prevailed against the electrostatic repulsion. This work proved for the first time the mode of action by which cerosomes exploit their function as skin barrier repairing agents on the SC.

Moisturizing mechanism of glycerol and diglycerol on human stratum corneum studied by synchrotron X-ray diffraction.

Polyols are moisturizers used in cosmetics. Using X-ray diffraction, we studied the moisturizingmechanism of polyol solutions in the stratum corneum (SC). We examined whether glycerol disrupts the ordered hydrocarbon chain packing structure in isolated SC, as previously proposed in an SC lipid model. The SC samples were prepared by treatment with water and aqueous solutions of glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol. To examine the differences in the water-retention efficiency of polyols, using a solution cell, we performed dynamic X-ray diffraction to analyse the structural changes that occurred during water removal from the hydrated samples by a stream of dry nitrogen gas. We focused on two structures, the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure in the intercellular lipids and the soft keratin in the corneocytes where most of the water is stored. The spacing formed by the soft keratin in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of water and diglycerol solution decreased rapidly by water removal. In contrast, it decreased gradually in the corneocytes immersed in a solution of glycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, indicating that the glycerol-containing solutions maintained the hydrated state of the corneocytes for longer. Furthermore, the characteristic change of the spacing in the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure over time was observed during the drying process. The hydrated state was maintained longer, in water, followed by glycerol, diglycerol and glycerol/diglycerol, in increasing order. This is the first study to report such characteristic properties that could be indicators of the capacity of the SC to regulate water. The dynamic X-ray diffraction experiment on the structure of the soft keratin and the orthorhombic hydrocarbon chain packing structure during the drying of the hydrated SC provides an insight into the moisturizing mechanism of the polyol solutions in the SC. The results show that the glycerol/diglycerol solution functions as an effective SC moisturizer at the molecular level. Further, it was confirmed that the behaviour of glycerol in the isolated SC varies from that proposed in the SC lipid model, wherein glycerol was proposed to prevent the formation of a regular hydrocarbon chain packing structure.

Long and very long lamellar phases in model stratum corneum lipid membranes

Membrane models of the stratum corneum (SC) lipid barrier, either healthy or affected by recessive X-linked ichthyosis, constructed from ceramide [Cer; nonhydroxyacyl sphingosine N-tetracosanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerNS24) alone or with omega-O-acylceramide N-(32-linoleyloxy)dotriacontanoyl-d-erythro-sphingosine (CerEOS)], FFAs(C16-24), cholesterol (Chol), and sodium cholesteryl sulfate (CholS) were investigated. X-ray diffraction (XRD) revealed a previously unreported polymorphism of the membranes. In the absence of CerEOS, the membranes formed a short lamellar phase (SLP; the repeat distance d = 5.3 nm), a medium lamellar phase (MLP; d = 10.6 nm), or very long lamellar phases (VLLP; d = 15.9 and 21.2 nm). An increased CholS-to-Chol ratio modulated the membrane polymorphism, although the CholS phase separated at ≥ 7 weight% (of total lipids). The presence of CerEOS led to the stable long lamellar phase (LLP) with d = 12.2 nm and prevented VLLP formation. Our XRD results agree well with recently published cryo-electron microscopy data for vitreous skin sections, while also revealing new structures. Thus, lamellar phases with long repeat distances (MLP and VLLP) may be formed in the absence of omega-O-acylceramide, whereas these ultralong Cer species likely stabilize the final SC lipid architecture of LLP by riveting the adjacent lipid layers.

Probing the role of ceramide hydroxylation in skin barrier lipid models by 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy and X-ray powder diffraction

In this work, we studied model stratum corneum lipid mixtures composed of the hydroxylated skin ceramides N-lignoceroyl 6-hydroxysphingosine (Cer[NH]) and α-hydroxylignoceroyl phytosphingosine (Cer[AP]). Two model skin lipid mixtures of the composition Cer[NH] or Cer[AP], N-lignoceroyl sphingosine (Cer[NS]), lignoceric acid (C24:0) and cholesterol in a 0.5:0.5:1:1 molar ratio were compared. Model membranes were investigated by differential scanning calorimetry and 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy at temperatures from 25 °C to 80 °C. Each component of the model mixture was specifically deuterated for selective detection by 2H NMR. Thus, the exact phase composition of the mixture at varying temperatures could be quantified. Moreover, using X-ray powder diffraction we investigated the lamellar phase formation. From the solid-state NMR and DSC studies, we found that both hydroxylated Cer[NH] and Cer[AP] exhibit a similar phase behavior. At physiological skin temperature of 32 °C, the lipids form a crystalline (orthorhombic) phase. With increasing temperature, most of the lipids become fluid and form a liquid-crystalline phase, which converts to the isotropic phase at higher temperatures (65–80 °C). Interestingly, lignoceric acid in the Cer[NH]-containing mixture has a tendency to form two types of fluid phases at 65 °C. This tendency was also observed in Cer[AP]-containing membranes at 80 °C. While Cer[AP]-containing lipid models formed a short periodicity phase featuring a repeat spacing of d = 5.4 nm, in the Cer[NH]-based model skin lipid membranes, the formation of unusual long periodicity phase with a repeat spacing of d = 10.7 nm was observed.

Evidence of hydrocarbon nanodrops in highly ordered stratum corneum model membranes

The stratum corneum (SC), the top layer of skin, dictates the rate of both water loss through the skin and absorption of exogenous molecules into the body. The crystalline organization of the lipids in the SC is believed to be a key feature associated with the very limited permeability of the skin. In this work, we characterized the organization of SC lipid models that include, as in native SC, cholesterol, a series of FFAs (saturated with C16-C24 chains), as well as a ceramide bearing an oleate chain-linked to a very long saturated acyl chain [N-melissoyl-oleoyloxy hexacosanoyl-D-erythro-sphingosine (Cer EOS)]. The latter is reported to be essential for the native SC lipid organization. Our 2H-NMR, infrared, and Raman spectroscopy data reveal that Cer EOS leads to the formation of highly disordered liquid domains in a solid/crystalline matrix. The lipid organization imposes steric constraint on Cer EOS oleate chains in such a way that these hydrocarbon nanodroplets remain in the liquid state down to −30°C. These findings modify the structural description of the SC substantially and propose a novel role of Cer EOS, as this lipid is a strong modulator of SC solid/liquid balance.

Effect of Ceramide Tail Length on the Structure of Model Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers

Lipid bilayers composed of non-hydroxy sphingosine ceramide (CER NS), cholesterol (CHOL), and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are components of the human skin barrier, are studied via molecular dynamics simulations. Since mixtures of these lipids exist in dense gel phases with little molecular mobility at physiological conditions, care must be taken to ensure that the simulations become decorrelated from the initial conditions. Thus, we propose and validate an equilibration protocol based on simulated tempering, in which the simulation takes a random walk through temperature space, allowing the system to break out of metastable configurations and hence become decorrelated from its initial configuration. After validating the equilibration protocol, which we refer to as random-walk molecular dynamics, the effects of the lipid composition and ceramide tail length on bilayer properties are studied. Systems containing pure CER NS, CER NS + CHOL, and CER NS + CHOL + FFA, with the CER NS fatty acid tail length varied within each CER NS-CHOL-FFA composition, are simulated. The bilayer thickness is found to depend on the structure of the center of the bilayer, which arises as a result of the tail-length asymmetry between the lipids studied. The hydrogen bonding between the lipid headgroups and with water is found to change with the overall lipid composition, but is mostly independent of the CER fatty acid tail length. Subtle differences in the lateral packing of the lipid tails are also found as a function of CER tail length. Overall, these results provide insight into the experimentally observed trend of altered barrier properties in skin systems where there are more CERs with shorter tails present.

SAMPA: A free software tool for skin and membrane permeation data analysis

Skin and membrane permeation experiments comprise an important step in the development of a transdermal or topical formulation or toxicological risk assessment. The standard method for analyzing these data relies on the linear part of a permeation profile. However, it is difficult to objectively determine when the profile becomes linear, or the experiment duration may be insufficient to reach a maximum or steady state. Here, we present a software tool for Skin And Membrane Permeation data Analysis, SAMPA, that is easy to use and overcomes several of these difficulties. The SAMPA method and software have been validated on in vitro and in vivo permeation data on human, pig and rat skin and model stratum corneum lipid membranes using compounds that range from highly lipophilic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons to highly hydrophilic antiviral drug, with and without two permeation enhancers. The SAMPA performance was compared with the standard method using a linear part of the permeation profile and a complex mathematical model. SAMPA is a user-friendly, open-source software tool for analyzing the data obtained from skin and membrane permeation experiments. It runs on a Microsoft Windows platform and is freely available as a Supporting file to this article.

Synthesis of specific deuterated derivatives of the long chained stratum corneum lipids [EOS] and [EOP] and characterization using neutron scattering.

The synthesis of specific deuterated derivatives of the long chained ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] is described. The structural differences with respect to the natural compounds are founded in the substitution of the 2 double bonds containing linoleic acid by a palmitic acid branched with a methyl group in 10-position. The specific deuteration is introduced both in the branched and in the terminal methyl group, which was realized by common methods of successive deuteration of carboxylic groups in 3 steps. These modified fatty acids resp. the corresponding ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] were prepared for neutron scattering investigations. First results of these investigations were presented in this manuscript showing that the deuterated compounds could be detected in the stratum corneum lipid model membranes. The deuterated ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] are valuable tools to investigate the influence of these long chained ceramide species on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipid model membranes.

Permeability and microstructure of model stratum corneum lipid membranes containing ceramides with long (C16) and very long (C24) acyl chains

The Stratum corneum (SC) prevents water loss from the body and absorption of chemicals. SC intercellular spaces contain ceramides (Cer), free fatty acids (FFA), cholesterol (Chol) and cholesteryl sulfate (CholS). Cer with “very long” acyl chains (for example, N-lignoceroyl-sphingosine, CerNS24) are important for skin barrier function, whereas increased levels of “long” acyl Cer (for example, N-palmitoyl-sphingosine, CerNS16) occur in patients suffering from atopic eczema or psoriasis. We studied the impact of the replacement of CerNS24 by CerNS16 on the barrier properties and microstructure of model SC lipid membranes composed of Cer/FFA/Chol/CholS. Membranes containing the long CerNS16 were significantly more permeable to water (by 38–53%), theophylline (by 50–55%) and indomethacin (by 83–120%) than those containing the very long CerNS24 (either with lignoceric acid or a mixture of long to very long chain FFA). Langmuir monolayers with CerNS24 were more condensed than with CerNS16 and atomic force microscopy showed differences in domain formation. X-ray powder diffraction revealed that CerNS24-based membranes formed one lamellar phase and separated Chol, whereas the CerNS16-based membranes formed up to three phases and Chol. These results suggest that replacement of CerNS24 by CerNS16 has a direct negative impact on membrane structure and permeability.

Synthesis of specifically deuterated ceramide [AP]-C18 and its biophysical characterization using neutron diffraction

The very heterogeneous group of ceramides is known to be mandatory for proper barrier functions of the outermost layer of mammalian skin, referred to as stratum corneum (SC). The synthesis of a specifically deuterated ceramide [AP]-C18 variant is described. The synthesized ceramide contains the racemic forms of the α hydroxy fatty acid. For the biophysical implementation, the received diastereomeric ceramide was applied in a neutron diffraction experiment. Therefore, a SC lipid model membrane was prepared containing the described ceramide (CER), cholesterol (CHOL), stearic acid (SA), and cholesterol sulfate (ChS) in a ratio of 55/25/15/5wt%. Thus, we were able to localize the deuterated molecule part within the bilayers. In the process, a short-periodicity phase (SPP) was observed with a unit cell scale of about 44Å. For the first time, we were able to confirm former ideas concerning the arrangement of the CER within this quaternary lipid model membrane.

The effect of non-deuterated and deuterated isopropyl myristate on the thermodynamical and structural behavior of a 2D Stratum Corneum model with Ceramide [AP

Isopropyl myristate (IPM) is a widely used penetration enhancer in pharmaceutical formulations, however, its mechanism of action on a molecular scale is still not completely understood. Previous work using a quaternary Stratum Corneum (SC) lipid model in bulk suggested the incorporation of isopropyl myristate into the SC lipid matrix, phase separation, and perturbation of the multilamellar lipid assembly. Here, we used 2D Langmuir monolayers of a ternary SC lipid model, containing ceramide AP C18:18, stearic acid and cholesterol in a molar ratio of [1:1:0.7], respectively, to shed light on the mechanism of action of this important lipophilic penetration enhancer. To do so, the synthesis of chain deuterated isopropyl myristate was successfully performed in order to study the different coupling possibilities between the hydrogenated and deuterated IPM and the alkyl chains of the SC molecules. Our results indicate that only a small portion of IPM is able to mix with our SC model leading to a limited fluidizing effect (small increase of the wavenumber of CH2 stretching vibration, increase of the SC layer flexibility), but will be squeezed out at higher lateral pressures. Furthermore, the deuteration of IPM enhances the miscibility with this SC model, probably due to a different coupling between the alkyl chains or the alkyl and deuterated chains. Additionally, using the pure D-form of CER[AP] in the SC model amplifies the obtained results.

Influence of the penetration enhancer isopropyl myristate on stratum corneum lipid model membranes revealed by neutron diffraction and 2H NMR experiments

The stratum corneum (SC) provides the main barrier properties in native skin. The barrier function is attributed to the intercellular lipids, forming continuous multilamellar membranes. In this study, SC lipid membranes in model ratios were enriched with deuterated lipids in order to investigate structural and dynamical properties by neutron diffraction and 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy. Further, the effect of the penetration enhancer isopropyl myristate (IPM) on the structure of a well-known SC lipid model membrane containing synthetically derived methyl-branched ceramide [EOS], ceramide [AP], behenic acid and cholesterol (23/10/33/33wt%) was investigated. IPM supported the formation of a single short-periodicity phase (SPP), in which we determined the molecular organization of CER[AP] and CER[EOS]-br for the first time. Furthermore, the thermotropic phase behavior of the lipid system was analyzed by additional neutron diffraction studies as well as by 2H solid-state NMR spectroscopy, covering temperatures of 32°C (physiological skin temperature), 50°C, and 70°C with a subsequent cooldown back to skin temperature. Both techniques revealed a phase transition and a hysteresis effect. During the cooldown, Bragg peaks corresponding to a long-periodicity phase (LPP) appeared. Additionally, 2H NMR revealed that the IPM molecules are isotopic mobile at all temperatures.

Phytosphingosine, sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine ceramides in model skin lipid membranes: permeability and biophysics

Ceramides based on phytosphingosine, sphingosine and dihydrosphingosine are essential constituents of the skin lipid barrier that protects the body from excessive water loss. The roles of the individual ceramide subclasses in regulating skin permeability and the reasons for C4-hydroxylation of these sphingolipids are not completely understood. We investigated the chain length-dependent effects of dihydroceramides, sphingosine ceramides (with C4-unsaturation) and phytoceramides (with C4-hydroxyl) on the permeability, lipid organization and thermotropic behavior of model stratum corneum lipid membranes composed of ceramide/lignoceric acid/cholesterol/cholesteryl sulfate. Phytoceramides with very long C24 acyl chains increased the permeability of the model lipid membranes compared to dihydroceramides or sphingosine ceramides with the same chain lengths. Either unsaturation or C4-hydroxylation of dihydroceramides induced chain length-dependent increases in membrane permeability. Infrared spectroscopy showed that C4-hydroxylation of the sphingoid base decreased the relative ratio of orthorhombic chain packing in the membrane and lowered the miscibility of C24 phytoceramide with lignoceric acid. The phase separation in phytoceramide membranes was confirmed by X-ray diffraction. In contrast, phytoceramides formed strong hydrogen bonds and highly thermostable domains. Thus, the large heterogeneity in ceramide structures and in their aggregation mechanisms may confer resistance towards the heterogeneous external stressors that are constantly faced by the skin barrier.

Localization of methyl-branched ceramide [EOS] species within the long-periodicity phase in stratum corneum lipid model membranes: A neutron diffraction study

The outermost layer of the mammalian skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is a very thin structure and realizes simultaneously the main barrier properties. The penetration barrier for xenobiotica is mostly represented by a complex lipid matrix. There is great interest in the subject of getting information about the arrangement of the lipids, which are mainly ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). SC lipid model membranes containing synthetically derived lipids in a non-physiological ratio were investigated. To compare the study to a former experiment, a methyl-branched ceramide [EOS] species in presence of the ultra-long chain CER[AP], CHOL and behenic acid (23/10/33/33, wt%) was applied. The membrane structure was studied using the very versatile technique of neutron diffraction. We were able to identify a long-periodicity phase (LPP) with a size of 114Å or 118Å with CER[EOS]-br in a ratio of >60wt% of the ceramides. Furthermore, we figured out two additional coexisting short-periodicity phases (SPP) with repeat distances of 48Å and 45Å, respectively. Partial deuterations of CER[EOS]-br and CER[AP] enabled the localization of the molecules within the multiphase system. CER[EOS]-d3 was present in the LPP, but absent in both SPP. CER[AP]-d3 was determined in both short phases but not localized within the LPP. Besides, we revealed influences of humidity and time with respect to the long-periodicity phase.