Stratum Corneum Lipid Content Research Articles

Confocal Raman spectroscopy at different laser wavelengths in analyzing stratum corneum and skin penetration properties of mixed PEGylated emulsifier systems

Emulsifier mixtures are widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceutics and thus, brought extensive studies for their performances on skin applications. PEG-20cetyl ether (C20) is recently proposed to induce skin irritation and is of interest to study its skin interactions when mixed with other emulsifiers. PEG-2oleyl ether (O2) and PEG-20stearyl ether (S20) are selected and in specific, 50 mM of C20, O2, S20 as well as Mix1 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM O2) and Mix2 (50 mM C20 mixed with 50 mM S20) solutions were applied on skin samples. Confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) analyses of stratum corneum (SC) thickness and SC lipid content were performed after 4 h skin treatments. In parallel, skin penetration properties were also evaluated via CRS by applying procaine solutions with/without emulsifiers on skin samples for 24 h. In terms of the CRS measurements, two excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm are both utilized in this study and we secondly aimed to compare their results and suitability in SC and skin analyses. Based on the experimental observations, comparable results are obtained by using both excitation wavelengths of 532 nm and 785 nm demonstrating their suitability in analyzing SC and skin samples. Thereinto, 785 nm laser wavelength shows the advantage of deeper skin penetration and allows the measurements of fluorescent skin samples; 532 nm laser wavelength enables simple measurement performance without substrate and coverslip interference. With regards to the results of emulsifier mixtures, the addition of S20 and O2 reduced the skin interactions and penetration enhancing ability of C20, giving us the hint to build milder systems with emulsifier mixtures. Besides, the CRS results of stronger skin interruption were also correlated with the higher critical micelle concentration (CMC) values of emulsifiers and their mixtures, which may provide evidence in explaining the interactions between emulsifiers and skin.

Three New Dexpanthenol-Containing Face Creams: Performance and Acceptability after Single and Repeated Applications in Subjects of Different Ethnicity with Dry and Sensitive Skin

Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) were conducted with healthy adults of three ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) with dry/sensitive skin. Effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC lipid content, and skin elasticity were quantified by established noninvasive methods during the 4-week studies. After single and repeated once-daily applications of the face creams, facial hydration significantly increased from baseline. On day 28, the mean increments in skin hydration amounted to 27%, 26%, and 27% (p < 0.0001 each) for DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC, respectively. Favorable effects of DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC on facial moisturization were observed in all three ethnic groups. The enhancements in SC hydration were not paralleled by improvements in skin elasticity parameters but lipid analyses showed significant increases in SC cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramide levels. All three face creams were well tolerated and achieved a high product satisfaction and acceptability by study participants. Our findings support the once-daily use of the face creams in adults of different ethnicities with dry and sensitive skin.

Impact of Alkanediols on Stratum Corneum Lipids and Triamcinolone Acetonide Skin Penetration.

Alkanediols are widely used as multifunctional ingredients in dermal formulations. In addition to their preservative effect, considering their possible impact on drug penetration is also essential for their use. In the present study, the influence of 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol on the skin penetration of triamcinolone acetonide from four different semisolid formulations was investigated. Furthermore, confocal Raman spectroscopy measurements were performed to examine the influence of the alkanediols on stratum corneum lipid content and order. Alkanediols were found to increase the penetration of triamcinolone acetonide. However, the extent depends strongly on the formulation used. In certain formulations, 1,2-pentanediol showed the highest effect, while in others the penetration-enhancing effect increased with the alkyl chain length of the alkanediol used. None of the tested alkanediols extracted lipids from the stratum corneum nor reduced its thickness. Notwithstanding the above, the longer-chained alkanediols cause the lipids to be converted to a more disordered state, which favors drug penetration. This behavior could not be detected for the shorter-chained alkanediols. Therefore, their penetration-enhancing effect is supposed to be related to an interaction with the hydrophilic regions of the stratum corneum.

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy as an alternative method to investigate the extraction of lipids from stratum corneum by emulsifiers and formulations

The purpose of this study was to investigate the impact of emulsifiers and formulations on intercellular lipids of porcine stratum corneum (SC) and evaluate confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) as an alternative method in this research context. To this end, four different formulations were used: three conventional creams that contained ionic and/or non-ionic emulsifiers and one surfactants-free emulsion stabilized by a polymeric emulsifier. Additionally, all emulsifiers were tested in aqueous solution/dispersion in the respective concentrations as present in the formulations. CRM and HPTLC were used to analyse changes in SC lipid content after treatment. Furthermore, lipid extraction was visualized by fluorescence staining and SC thickness was measured by CRM and light microscopy. Various emulsifiers and emulsifier mixtures showed different impact on SC lipid content and SC thickness, while none of the tested formulations had any effect on SC lipids. Emulsifiers and their mixtures that reduced the lipids content also reduced SC thickness, indicating lipid extraction is the reason for SC thinning. Results from CRM and conventional methods showed a strong positive correlation for both lipid content and SC thickness measurements. With easy sample preparation and fast analytical readout, CRM has the potential to be a standardized analytical method for skin lipids investigation.

Transdermal Protein Delivery Using Choline and Geranate (CAGE) Deep Eutectic Solvent.

Transdermal delivery of peptides and other biological macromolecules is limited due to skin's inherent low permeability. Here, the authors report the use of a deep eutectic solvent, choline and geranate (CAGE), to enhance topical delivery of proteins such as bovine serum albumin (BSA, molecular weight: ≈66 kDa), ovalbumin (OVA, molecular weight: ≈45 kDa) and insulin (INS, molecular weight: 5.8 kDa). CAGE enhances permeation of BSA, OVA, and insulin into porcine skin ex vivo, penetrating deep into the epidermis and dermis. Studies using tritium-labeled BSA and fluorescein isothiocyanate labeled insulin show significantly enhanced delivery of proteins into and across porcine skin, penetrating the skin in a time-dependent manner. Fourier transform IR spectra of porcine stratum corneum (SC) samples before and after incubation in CAGE show a reduction in peak area attributed to SC lipid content, suggesting lipid extraction from the SC. Circular dichroism confirms that CAGE does not affect insulin's secondary conformation. In vivo studies in rats show that topical application of 10 U insulin dispersed in CAGE (25 U kg-1 insulin dose) leads to a highly significant 40% drop in blood glucose levels in 4 h that is relatively sustained for 12 h. Taken together, these studies demonstrate that CAGE is a promising vehicle for transdermal delivery of therapeutic proteins; specifically, as a noninvasive delivery alternative to injectable insulin for the treatment of diabetes.

A plant oil-containing pH 4 emulsion improves epidermal barrier structure and enhances ceramide levels in aged skin.

Xerosis is a serious problem among the very old. It is a dermatological challenge caused by significant alterations in stratum corneum (SC) function and structure. Two negative changes in aged skin are (i) the enhanced skin surface pH and (ii) the altered SC lipid content, composition and ordering. Therefore, we investigated the way in which an acidic skin care product with different plant oils affects SC function, structure and lipid profile in older subjects with dry skin. Before and after a 3-week application period, different biophysical measurements were performed: transepidermal water loss, SC hydration and skin surface pH. In addition, the SC lipid matrix was evaluated by analysis of the intercellular lipid lamellae and the SC lipid profile. After treatment, a significant increase in lipid lamellae in the intercellular space of the SC was observed in the area treated with the test product compared to the untreated area. Furthermore, the ceramide level was found to be increased, although ceramides were not provided by the acidic test formulation. In summary, topical application of a pH 4.0 product containing plant oils improves epidermal barrier formation and SC lipid ordering and ratio in aged dry skin.

Raman spectroscopy: feasibility of in vivo survey of stratum corneum lipids, effect of natural aging

The main function of the stratum corneum (SC) is for protection against external aggression. This is described as the barrier function. It mainly depends on the presence of a lipid matrix composed of ceramides, free fatty acids, cholesterol and its derivatives in the intercellular spaces. Previous studies have reported the application of Raman spectroscopy to reveal the organization of SC lipids and the state of their barrier functions. Several spectral features are directly informative about the lateral packing and the conformational order. In this work, in vivo Raman spectroscopy is used to asses the state of the SC lipid content and thus its barrier function, directly on the skin. To study the effect of natural aging on the organization of these lipids, spectra were collected from the internal side of the forearms of twenty volunteers aged from 22 to 64. Multivariate data processing enabled separation of the in vivo spectra according to the volunteers' ages. Spectral signatures show small variations, indicating a slight change in the lateral packing of SC lipids with aging of the skin.

Comparison of rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) with intact human skin: Lipid composition and thermal phase behavior of the stratum corneum

The present report is a part of our continuing efforts to explore the utility of the rat epidermal keratinocyte organotypic culture (ROC) as an alternative model to human skin in transdermal drug delivery and skin irritation studies of new chemical entities and formulations. The aim of the present study was to compare the stratum corneum lipid content of ROC with the corresponding material from human skin. The lipid composition was determined by thin-layer chromatography (TLC) and mass-spectrometry, and the thermal phase transitions of stratum corneum were studied by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). All major lipid classes of the stratum corneum were present in ROC in a similar ratio as found in human stratum corneum. Compared to human skin, the level of non-hydroxyacid-sphingosine ceramide (NS) was increased in ROC, while α-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramide (AP) and non-hydroxyacid-phytosphingosine ceramides (NP) were absent. Also some alterations in fatty acid profiles of ROC ceramides were noted, e.g., esterified ω-hydroxyacid-sphingosine contained increased levels of oleic acid instead of linoleic acid. The fraction of lipids covalently bound to corneocyte proteins was distinctly lower in ROC compared to human skin, in agreement with the results from DSC. ROC underwent a lipid lamellar order to disorder transition ( T 2) at a slightly lower temperature (68 °C) than human skin (74 °C). These differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and the thermal phase transitions may explain the minor differences previously observed in drug permeation between ROC and human skin.

Feasibility of rapid quantitation of stratum corneum lipid content by Fourier transform infrared spectrometry

The permeability barrier of skin resides in the stratum corneum, and its properties are mediated by a series of lipid multilayers, enriched in ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids, segregated within the stratum corneum (SC) interstices. SC lipid content is usually determined by gravimetric methods in conjunction with high performance thin layer chromatography, but these methods are time‒consuming and involve hazardous solvents. The objective of the present study was to develop a method of measuring SC lipid content by Fourier transform infrared spectrometry (FTIR) that is fast and requires no solvents. The IR spectra of isolated porcine SC sheets were recorded using a FTIR spectrometer. SC lipid content was determined by gravimetric methods using chloroform–methanol extraction. The peak area of both the CH2symmetric (2850 cm−1) and asymmetric (2920 cm−1) stretching bands in the IR spectra of progressively solvent‒extracted porcine SC sheets decreased with increasing amount of SC lipids removed. When spectral analysis was performed by curve‒fitting using GRAMS/32 software between 3000 to 2800 cm−1, peak area ratios of CH2to CH3asymmetric stretching bands in the IR spectra of 46 isolated porcine SC samples were correlated to SC lipid content (R2=0.90), with the standard error of measurement of 1.91%. The study demonstrated the feasibility of using FTIR technique to rapidly and accurately measure SC lipid content.

PH-Induced Modifications to Stratum Corneum Lipids Investigated Using Thermal, Spectroscopic, and Chromatographic Techniques

The effects of nonphysiological pH on stratum corneum lipid content and structure have been studied. Human stratum corneum samples were soaked in solutions at pH 1, 2, 6, 11, or 12 for up to 24 h. After removal of the stratum corneum, the buffer solutions were analyzed for lipid composition using thin-layer chromatography analysis and the stratum corneum sheets were examined using differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The results demonstrate that only buffers of pH 11 or higher affect the stratum corneum lipids. No large difference in the contents of ceramides and cholesterol extracted by buffers of varying pH was observed. In contrast, free fatty acid extraction was pH dependent; amounts removed by 24-h treatment with pH 11 or 12 buffers were comparable, and were similar to amounts extracted with a methanol-chloroform mixture for 15 min. No appreciable changes in DSC and FTIR spectra were detected between untreated stratum corneum and stratum corneum samples treated with buffers at pHs in the range 1–6. For tissue treated with pH 11 and 12, the position of the endothermal melting peak T2 shifted from 72 to 74°C on the DSC thermograms. Small changes in the broadness of spectral peaks at 2855 cm−1 [attributable to u(CH2) stretching of stratum corneum lipids and 1655 cm−1u(C=O) stretching amide I band] can be seen in the FTIR spectra from the treated stratum corneum samples, although no shifts in peak positions were observed. Intensity changes in peaks from extraneous lipids [u(C=O) stretching mode at 1735 cm−1] were observed after buffer treatments. The changes provoked by the alkaline buffers are not dramatic and it may be concluded that the stratum corneum appears remarkably resilient to extended exposure in both highly acidic (pH 1) and highly alkaline (pH 12) environments.

Effect of barrier disruption by acetone treatment on the permeability of compounds with various lipophilicities: Implications for the permeability of compromised skin

The permeability of compromised skin barrier was investigated in vitro using acetone‐disrupted hairless mouse skin as a model membrane. The effect of compound lipophilicity was studied using sucrose, caffeine, hydrocortisone, estradiol, and progesterone as model compounds. The results demonstrated that permeability barrier disruption by acetone treatment significantly enhanced the permeability of the skin to both hydrophilic and amphipathic compounds, including sucrose, caffeine and hydrocortisone. This effect was more prominent with caffeine and hydrocortisone at different transepidermal water loss (TEWL) levels. Acetone treatment, however, didn't appear to alter the percutaneous penetration of highly lipophilic compounds, such as estradiol and progesterone. The characteristics of skin permeability were described by parabolic relationships between log PWS (permeability coefficient of whole skin) and log KO/W (octanol/water partition coefficient) at different degrees of permeability barrier disruption. The optimal log KO/W of compounds for skin penetration appeared to decrease with an increase in TEWL levels. The maximal permeability achieved was similar through skin displaying different TEWL levels. In an attempt to explore the underlying mechanisms for the changes in skin permeability, the stratum corneum/normal saline partition coefficients of water, caffeine, and hydrocortisone either decreased or remained unaffected with an increase in TEWL. Electron microscopic examinations have revealed reductions in stratum corneum lipid content and alterations in intercellular membrane structures as a result of acetone treatment, whereas negligible changes in the number of horny layers were observed by safranin staining of the stratum corneum. We have concluded that the enhancement in skin permeability to both hydrophilic and amphipathic compounds by acetone treatment arose mainly because of the increase in stratum corneum diffusivity at higher TEWL levels. The results imply the possibility of using both TEWL and drug lipophilicity to predict alterations in skin permeability and hence the dose adjustment of topically applied medication for patients with impaired skin barrier function. © 2001 Wiley‐Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmaceutical Association J Pharm Sci 90:1242–1254, 2001

Inter- and Intra-Individual Differences in Human Stratum Corneum Lipid Content Related to Physical Parameters of Skin Barrier Function In Vivo

For a full understanding of the properties of the human skin barrier, physical macroscopic parameters of barrier function must be correlated to the structural organization of the barrier on a molecular level. This study was undertaken to relate differences in the relative composition of the three main lipid classes of human stratum corneum, i.e., free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides, to differences in transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum electrical impedance, and corneometer value. A new high performance liquid chromatography/light scattering detection-based analysis method recently developed was used for collection of quantitative lipid data in conjunction with gas chromatography/mass spectrometry/flame ionization detection measurements on the free fatty acid fraction. After subtraction of contaminating lipid fractions we have estimated the molar ratio of the human skin barrier lipid composition to be, respectively, 15% cholesterol esters, 16% saturated long chain free fatty acids, 32% cholesterol, and 37% ceramides. The inter-individual difference in the relative amount of free fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides, respectively, can be >100% in the individual case. It was found that the relative amount of ceramides to cholesterol is larger in the wrist area, paralleled by a higher transepidermal water loss and corneometer value as well as different skin electrical impedance values as compared with the upper forearm area. We conclude that the site-dependent differences in the stratum corneum lipid composition are small compared with the large inter-individual variation. Interestingly, in the individual case, no correlation was registered between relative ceramide content and barrier properties.

Glucocorticoids accelerate fetal maturation of the epidermal permeability barrier in the rat.

The cutaneous permeability barrier to systemic water loss is mediated by hydrophobic lipids forming membrane bilayers within the intercellular domains of the stratum corneum (SC). The barrier emerges during day 20 of gestation in the fetal rat and is correlated with increasing SC thickness and increasing SC lipid content, the appearance of well-formed lamellar bodies in the epidermis, and the presence of lamellar unit structures throughout the SC. Because glucocorticoids accelerate lung lamellar body and surfactant maturation in man and experimental animals, these studies were undertaken to determine whether maternal glucocorticoid treatment accelerates maturation of the epidermal lamellar body secretory system. Maternal rats were injected with betamethasone or saline (control) on days 16-18, and pups were delivered prematurely on day 19. Whereas control pups exhibited immature barriers to transepidermal water loss (8.16 +/- 0.52 mg/cm2 per h), glucocorticoid-treated pups exhibited competent barriers (0.74 +/- 0.14 mg/cm2 per h; P < 0.001). Glucocorticoid treatment also: (a) accelerated maturation of lamellar body and SC membrane ultrastructure; (b) increased SC total lipid content twofold; and (c) increased cholesterol and polar ceramide content three- to sixfold. Thus, glucocorticoids accelerate the functional, morphological, and lipid biochemical maturation of the permeability barrier in the fetal rat.

Preservation of Permeability Barrier Ontogenesis in the Intrauterine Growth-Retarded Fetal Rat

The epidermal permeability barrier is provided by intercellular lipids forming multiple membrane bilayers in the stratum corneum. In the fetal rat, the barrier to transepidermal water loss forms during the 20th d of gestation and is accompanied by 1) increasing stratum corneum thickness; 2) increasing stratum corneum lipid content, particularly nonpolar ceramide and cholesterol content; and 3) the formation of lamellar unit structures throughout the stratum corneum interstices. In this report, we demonstrate that among pups of 20 d gestational age increasing barrier competence is correlated with increasing fetal weight. It has been previously demonstrated that fetal rats subjected to intrauterine growth retardation (IUGR) exhibit a thinner stratum corneum and decreased content of differentiation-specific epidermal structural proteins. To determine whether IUGR fetal rats also exhibit immaturity of barrier function and the barrier membrane system, maternal rats underwent unilateral uterine vessel ligation on d 17 or 18 of gestation and IUGR and control littermates were harvested on d 20, 21, or 22 of gestation for determination of transepidermal water loss. Despite significant somatic growth retardation and a thinner stratum corneum, barrier function in IUGR fetal rats did not significantly differ from that in control littermates at any gestational age. In both IUGR and control fetal rat epidermis at 21 d gestational age, lipids were deposited in a membrane pattern as visualized by nile red fluorescence microscopy and formed lamellar unit membrane structures throughout the stratum corneum intercellular domains as observed by electron microscopy.(ABSTRACT TRUNCATED AT 250 WORDS)

Reversal Effects of Topical Retinoic Acid on the Skin of Kidney Transplant Recipients Under Systemic Corticotherapy

The systemic long-term corticosteroid treatment administered to kidney graft recipients (KGR) within the framework of the required immunosuppressive therapy induces an atrophy of the skin, from the sixth month onwards. We studied the effect of topical all-trans retinoic acid (0.05%; Galderma Labs.) applied to the forearms of 27 KGR (14 men, 13 women) over a 6-month period. Twenty-four subjects completed the trial. The following results were obtained in the treated forearm versus the untreated forearm (excipient alone): clinically, an increase in skin thickness; by noninvasive techniques, an increase in skin thickness, skin elasticity, skin conductance, and TEWL, and a reduction in the size of the corneocytes. No change in stratum corneum lipid content was observed. A sex-related difference was noted in the response to treatment under our experimental conditions, the female patients responding better. A punch biopsy (4 mm) was performed on both forearms of four patients after the 6-month period. Histologic and ultrastructural examination revealed epidermal and dermal changes evoking increased cellular metabolism in the retinoic acid-treated forearms.

The role of protein and lipid domains in the uptake of solutes by human stratum corneum.

The uptake of a series of hydrocortisone esters varying in lipophilicity from water into untreated and delipidized human stratum corneum has been determined. The partition coefficients of solutes into fully hydrated stratum corneum are postulated to represent the separate contributions of three structurally distinct domains--the extractable lipids, protein, and the solvent domain. The solvent domain was assumed to have the properties of bulk water. The relative affinities of the protein and lipid domains of stratum corneum for solutes varying in structure were determined by comparing solute uptake in untreated and delipidized stratum corneum. Partitioning into the extracted lipids was also examined. Solute uptake into stratum corneum may be governed by the protein domain, the lipid domain, or a combination of the two, depending on solute lipophilicity. Due to differences in the selectivity of the two domains, a change in uptake mechanism occurs with increasing solute lipophilicity from protein-dominated uptake for hydrophilic solutes to lipid domain-dominated uptake for lipophilic solutes. The stratum corneum lipid content, which varies dramatically from individual to individual (3-46% in this study), is an important determinant of the affinity of the stratum corneum for highly lipophilic solutes but has no effect on the uptake of hydrophilic solutes.