Abstract
Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) were conducted with healthy adults of three ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) with dry/sensitive skin. Effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC lipid content, and skin elasticity were quantified by established noninvasive methods during the 4-week studies. After single and repeated once-daily applications of the face creams, facial hydration significantly increased from baseline. On day 28, the mean increments in skin hydration amounted to 27%, 26%, and 27% (p < 0.0001 each) for DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC, respectively. Favorable effects of DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC on facial moisturization were observed in all three ethnic groups. The enhancements in SC hydration were not paralleled by improvements in skin elasticity parameters but lipid analyses showed significant increases in SC cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramide levels. All three face creams were well tolerated and achieved a high product satisfaction and acceptability by study participants. Our findings support the once-daily use of the face creams in adults of different ethnicities with dry and sensitive skin.
Highlights
Xerotic skin is accompanied by impaired quality of life and reduced self-esteem, when the face is involved [1,2]
We observed a significant increase in stratum corneum (SC) cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramides upon prolonged use of day face cream (DFC), DFC-sun protection factor (SPF), and night face cream (NFC)
The results of our trials indicate that all three face creams studied are suitable for the daily face care of dry skin sufferers with different ethnic backgrounds (African, Asian, Caucasian)
Summary
Xerotic skin is accompanied by impaired quality of life and reduced self-esteem, when the face is involved [1,2]. The skin of the face is continuously exposed to environmental challenges (e.g., cold/hot weather, pollution, UV rays) [2,4] This makes the skin on the face prone to dryness [5]. A study in healthy young female volunteers representing four ethnic groups showed that skin hydration is greatest for Black Africans, followed by Indians, Caucasians, and Chinese [10]. It is, not surprising that the performance of facial moisturizers may reveal ethnic differences. It has been suggested that the latter is related to underlying skin biochemistry and/or ethnic differences in product application [3], with the caveat that there is a general paucity of data from intrastudy comparisons on the effects of moisturizers on facial skin hydration in different ethnic groups
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