Stratum Corneum Components Research Articles

Optimisation and Characterisation of Improved Nanoemulsion Formulations Containing Ceramide 3

AbstractCeramide3 (Cer3) is one of the important components of stratum corneum (SC) lipids with good moisturizing and repairing properties. However, it suffers from (a) poor solubility, (b) easy crystallization and precipitation, and (c) strong polarity and difficulty in transdermal application. This study aimed to load Cer3 into nanoemulsions (NEs) to overcome these mentioned defects. The optimized NEs formulation was prepared by high pressure homogenization method and characterized by several methods. The optimized ceramide3 nanoemulsions (Cer3‐NEs) exhibited a good physico‐chemical stability over 3 months under different conditions, with droplet size of 103.1 nm, PDI of 0.178, zeta potential of −39.09 mV, pH of 6.20 and encapsulation efficiency of 96.39 %. Turbiscan results showed that formulations containing Cer3‐NEs have better stability than those containing free Cer3. The dermal delivery ability of Cer3‐NEs was assessed by Franz diffusion and confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRM). In vitro and in vivo penetration studies showed that Cer3‐NEs serum have almost 2–3 times higher retention in the skin and permeation in the receptor solution compared to serum with free Cer3. The findings show NE is a promising carrier of Cer3 for topical administration in the treatment of dryness and barrier damage due to higher stability and better skin permeability.

Longitudinal Correlations between Molecular Compositions of Stratum Corneum and Breast Milk Factors during Infancy: A Prospective Birth Cohort Study.

Breast milk contains numerous factors that are involved in the maturation of the immune system and development of the gut microbiota in infants. These factors include transforming growth factor-β1 and 2, immunoglobin A, and lactoferrin. Breast milk factors may also affect epidermal differentiation and the stratum corneum (SC) barrier in infants, but no studies examining these associations over time during infancy have been reported. In this single-center exploratory study, we measured the molecular components of the SC using confocal Raman spectroscopy at 0, 1, 2, 6, and 12 months of age in 39 infants born at our hospital. Breast milk factor concentrations from their mothers' breast milk were determined. Correlation coefficients for the two datasets were estimated for each molecular component of the SC and breast milk factor at each age and SC depth. The results showed that breast milk factors and molecular components of the SC during infancy were partly correlated with infant age in months and SC depth, suggesting that breast milk factors influence the maturation of the SC components. These findings may improve understanding of the pathogenesis of skin diseases associated with skin barrier abnormalities.

Skin Lipid Barrier: Structure, Function and Metabolism.

Lipids are important skin components that provide, together with proteins, barrier function of the skin. Keratinocyte terminal differentiation launches unique metabolic changes to lipid metabolism that result in the predominance of ceramides within lipids of the stratum corneum (SC)-the very top portion of the skin. Differentiating keratinocytes form unique ceramides that can be found only in the skin, and generate specialized extracellular structures known as lamellae. Lamellae establish tight hydrophobic layers between dying keratinocytes to protect the body from water loss and also from penetration of allergens and bacteria. Genetic and immunological factors may lead to the failure of keratinocyte terminal differentiation and significantly alter the proportion between SC components. The consequence of such changes is loss or deterioration of skin barrier function that can lead to pathological changes in the skin. This review summarizes our current understanding of the role of lipids in skin barrier function. It also draws attention to the utility of testing SC for lipid and protein biomarkers to predict future onset of allergic skin diseases.

Role of Omega-Hydroxy Ceramides in Epidermis: Biosynthesis, Barrier Integrity and Analyzing Method.

Attached to the outer surface of the corneocyte lipid envelope (CLE), omega-hydroxy ceramides (ω-OH-Cer) link to involucrin and function as lipid components of the stratum corneum (SC). The integrity of the skin barrier is highly dependent on the lipid components of SC, especially on ω-OH-Cer. Synthetic ω-OH-Cer supplementation has been utilized in clinical practice for epidermal barrier injury and related surgeries. However, the mechanism discussion and analyzing methods are not keeping pace with its clinical application. Though mass spectrometry (MS) is the primary choice for biomolecular analysis, method modifications for ω-OH-Cer identification are lacking in progress. Therefore, finding conclusions on ω-OH-Cer biological function, as well as on its identification, means it is vital to remind further researchers of how the following work should be done. This review summarizes the important role of ω-OH-Cer in epidermal barrier functions and the forming mechanism of ω-OH-Cer. Recent identification methods for ω-OH-Cer are also discussed, which could provide new inspirations for study on both ω-OH-Cer and skin care development.

New Data on the Features of Skin Barrier in Hidradenitis Suppurativa.

Hidradenitis suppurativa (HS) is a Th1/17-driven inflammatory skin disease of the apocrine gland-rich (AGR) skin regions, where keratinocytes seem to be the crucial drivers of the initial pathogenic steps. However, the possible role of permeability barrier alteration in activating keratinocytes during HS development has not been clarified. We compared the major permeability barrier elements of non-lesional HS (HS-NL; n = 10) and lesional HS (HS-L; n = 10) skin with healthy AGR regions (n = 10) via RT-qPCR and immunohistochemistry. Stratum corneum components related to cornified envelope formation, corneocyte desquamation and (corneo)desmosome organization were analyzed along with tight junction molecules and barrier alarmins. The permeability barrier function was also investigated with transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurements (n = 16). Junction structures were also visualized using confocal microscopy. At the gene level, none of the investigated molecules were significantly altered in HS-NL skin, while 11 molecules changed significantly in HS-L skin versus control. At the protein level, the investigated molecules were similarly expressed in HS-NL and AGR skin. In HS-L skin, only slight changes were detected; however, differences did not show a unidirectional alteration, as KRT1 and KLK5 were detected in decreased levels, and KLK7, KRT6 and DSG1 in increased levels. No significant differences in TEWL or the expression of junction structures were assessed. Our findings suggest that the permeability barrier is not significantly damaged in HS skin and permeability barrier alterations are not the driver factors of keratinocyte activation in this disease.

257 Clinical skin moisturizing property of the AVENE thermal spring water is associated with water capture and higher lipid organization in the stratum corneum

One of the main functions of the skin is to provide an optimal water level for normal physiological function and maintain its biophysical properties, including elasticity. The aim of this study was to demonstrate clinically the moisturizing effect of AVENE thermal spring water (TSW) and explain the mechanism of action involved, using biophysical analysis of the stratum corneum (SC) approaches. Skin electric capacitance was used to assess the hydration level of the skin outermost layers of 24 volunteers, using corneometry, after 6 daily applications of AVENE TSW for 7 days. The persistence of this effect was analyzed for 20 hours after the last application. In addition, ex vivo raman spectroscopy was performed on isolated SC. Hydration level and barrier function were directly monitored by following the different vibrational contributions of water and lipids in the SC Raman spectra. We clinically observed a significant improvement in hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis which persisted for 20 hours after the last application compared to baseline and to untreated area. Indeed, skin was less dehydrated for 20 hours after the last application. In addition, Raman experiments showed that AVENE TSW application on SC contributes to high global water content and retention. Besides the water content, the water structure and mobility were of high importance, and the high relative amount of partially bound water compared to tightly bound and unbound water can be related to a better capacity of the water to interact with SC components. In parallel, it maintains high conformational order of the lipid matrix, beneficial for skin barrier function and hydration. Altogether, these data demonstrated how the high moisturizing properties of AVENE TSW topically applied on skin subjects, is associated with SC hydration and barrier function improvement.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy.

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Penetration Depth of Propylene Glycol, Sodium Fluorescein and Nile Red into the Skin Using Non-Invasive Two-Photon Excited FLIM.

The stratum corneum (SC) forms a strong barrier against topical drug delivery. Therefore, understanding the penetration depth and pathways into the SC is important for the efficiency of drug delivery and cosmetic safety. In this study, TPT-FLIM (two-photon tomography combined with fluorescence lifetime imaging) was applied as a non-invasive optical method for the visualization of skin structure and components to study penetration depths of exemplary substances, like hydrophilic propylene glycol (PG), sodium fluorescein (NaFl) and lipophilic Nile red (NR) into porcine ear skin ex vivo. Non-fluorescent PG was detected indirectly based on the pH-dependent increase in the fluorescence lifetime of SC components. The pH similarity between PG and viable epidermis limited the detection of PG. NaFl reached the viable epidermis, which was also proved by laser scanning microscopy. Tape stripping and confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy were performed additionally to study NaFl, which revealed penetration depths of ≈5 and ≈8 μm, respectively. Lastly, NR did not permeate the SC. We concluded that the amplitude-weighted mean fluorescence lifetime is the most appropriate FLIM parameter to build up penetration profiles. This work is anticipated to provide a non-invasive TPT-FLIM method for studying the penetration of topically applied drugs and cosmetics into the skin.

TMCR‐ALS method for the determination of water concentration profiles in the stratum corneum of untreated and treated skin in vivo

AbstractSkin moisturizing is important in dermatology and cosmetics. Raman microspectroscopy is a well‐suited method to determine water concentration profiles in the stratum corneum (SC) of untreated and formulation‐treated skin in vivo. Until now, the water in the SC was quantified using the ratio of water to proteins, and other SC components were neglected. Here, we apply the tailored multivariate curve resolution‐alternating least squares (tMCR‐ALS) method to improve the quantitative determination of water in the SC of cosmetic oil‐treated skin accounting Raman spectra of proteins, lipids, and oils in the high wavenumber region. We compared the water concentration profiles in the SC of petrolatum‐treated skin calculated using the tMCR‐ALS method and two existing conventional and extended methods, which are both based on the analysis of the water‐to‐protein‐ratio. The results show that in petrolatum‐treated skin, the conventional method calculates an incorrect water profile in the depth of 0–70% of the SC thickness; the extended method shows an incorrect profile in the depth of 0–10% of the SC thickness; the applied tMCR‐ALS method show results, which coincide well with the modern knowledge of the moisturizing effect of cosmetic oils on the SC. Almond, jojoba, and paraffin oils exhibit a similar moisturizing effect that manifests itself in an increase of water concentration in the intermediate SC depth. However, the effect of petrolatum is more pronounced. In the context of treated skin, the proposed method calculates water concentration profiles throughout the SC correctly and thus has a great potential in dermatology and cosmetics.

In vitro characterization and clinical evaluation of skin hydration by two formulations mimicking the skin's natural components.

We have developed innovative base formulations that were designed to mimic the skin with respect to its components and galenic structure. Components include water, proteins, lipids, sugars and minerals. We characterized formulations and their skin penetration using in vitro methods and evaluated their impact on skin hydration in a clinical trial. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) imaging and X-ray diffraction were used to analyse formulations as well as formulation impact on the stratum corneum (SC) structure. Mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) was used to compare formulation ingredients with SC components and to detect their distribution in the skin. Clinical studies were performed to confirm effects on skin hydration and investigate potential adverse skin effects (irritation and sensitization). SEM and X-ray diffraction of the formulations showed that lipids were organized in sheets similar to SC lipids. MSI demonstrated similarities between formulation components and skin constituents, as well as a good penetration into the skin. The formulations did not modify the lamellar organization of the SC lipids, but they increased the relative proportion of the crystallized lipids and some of the amorphous lipids. In in vivo studies, a high level of hydration was maintained over 24 h after application with an intense and 'very good hydration'. Both formulations were shown to be non-(photo)sensitizers with excellent tolerance. Sensorial evaluation indicated the formulations were not oily or sticky and maintained the skin's suppleness over time. Formulations had a 'nude skin' touch and created a natural protective film. The two formulations were well-tolerated and increased skin hydration in clinical subjects, an effect that could contribute to the alleviation of sensitive skin. The formulations were shown to resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum, as well as penetrate the skin without disrupting the lipid lamella organization.

The effects of glycols on molecular mobility, structure, and permeability in stratum corneum

The skin provides an attractive alternative to the conventional drug administration routes. Still, it comes with challenges as the upper layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), provides an efficient barrier against permeation of most compounds. One way to overcome the skin barrier is to apply chemical permeation enhancers, which can modify the SC structure. In this paper, we investigated the molecular effect of three different types of glycols in SC: dipropylene glycol (diPG), propylene glycol (PG), and butylene glycol (BG). The aim is to understand how these molecules influence the molecular mobility and structure of the SC components, and to relate the molecular effects to the efficiency of these molecules as permeation enhancers. We used complementary experimental techniques, including natural abundance 13C NMR spectroscopy and wide-angle X-ray diffraction to characterize the molecular consequences of these compounds at different doses in SC at 97% RH humidity and 32 °C. In addition, we study the permeation enhancing effects of the same glycols in comparable conditions using Raman spectroscopy. Based on the results from NMR, we conclude that all three glycols cause increased mobility in SC lipids, and that the addition of glycols has an effect on the keratin filaments in similar manner as Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The highest mobility of both lipids and amino acids can be reached with BG, which is followed by PG. It is also shown that one reaches an apparent saturation level for all three chemicals in SC, after which increased addition of the compound does not lead to further increase in the mobility of SC lipids or protein components. The examination with Raman mapping show that BG and PG give a significant permeation enhancement as compared to SC without any added glycol at corresponding conditions. Finally, we observe a non-monotonic response in permeation enhancement with respect to the concentration of glycols, where the highest concentration does not give the highest permeation. This is explained by the dehydration effects at highest glycol concentrations. In summary, we find a good correlation between the molecular effects of glycols on the SC lipid and protein mobility, and macroscopic permeation enhances of the same molecules.

Oral Intake of Enzymatically Decomposed AP Collagen Peptides Improves Skin Moisture and Ceramide and Natural Moisturizing Factor Contents in the Stratum Corneum.

The stratum corneum (SC) is the outermost layer of the epidermis and plays an important role in maintaining skin moisture and protecting the skin from the external environment. Ceramide and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) are the major SC components that maintain skin moisture. In this study, we investigated whether the oral intake of enzymatically decomposed AP collagen peptides (APCPs) can improve skin moisture and barrier function by assessing changes in the ceramide and NMF contents in the SC after APCP ingestion with the aim to develop a skin functional food. Fifty participants orally ingested APCP (1000 mg) or placebo for 12 weeks, and then, skin hydration and skin texture were evaluated. SC samples were collected to analyze skin scaling, ceramide, and NMF contents. Participants in the APCP group exhibited improved skin moisture content by 7.33% (p = 0.031) and roughness by −4.09% (p = 0.036) when compared with those in the placebo group. NMF content; the amounts of amino acids (AA), including glycine and proline; and AA derivatives were significantly increased in the APCP group (31.98 μg/mg protein) compared to those in the placebo group (−16.01 μg/mg protein) (p = 0.006). The amounts of total ceramides and ceramide subclasses were significantly higher in the APCP group than in the placebo group (p = 0.014). In conclusion, our results demonstrate that APCP intake improves skin moisture and increase the ceramide and NMF contents in the SC, thereby enhancing the skin barrier function.

Methodological Considerations for Lipid and Polar Component Analyses in Human Skin Stratum Corneum.

Collection of skin very top layer, called stratum corneum, by tape stripping and the analysis of stratum corneum components by mass spectrometry provides multiple advantages for clinical studies that aim to understand the origins of allergic skin diseases and food allergy. However, such a methodology has multiple challenges on the way of complex stratum corneum analysis when molecules of different polarity are needed to be analyzed from minimal amount of skin tape strips. This review provides an overview of current knowledge about lipid and polar molecules in the skin, discusses challenging aspects of sample processing when dealing with skin tape strips, and provides some guidance towards approaches that generate complex, quantitative, normalized to total sample protein data that fit best the purpose of analysis of stratum corneum components for the purpose of clinical trials.

Extraction of natural moisturizing factor from the stratum corneum and its implication on skin molecular mobility

The natural moisturizing factor (NMF) is a mixture of small water-soluble compounds present in the upper layer of the skin, stratum corneum (SC). Soaking of SC in water leads to extraction of the NMF molecules, which may influence the SC molecular properties and lead to brittle and dry skin. In this study, we investigate how the molecular dynamics in SC lipid and protein components are affected by the removal of the NMF compounds. We then explore whether the changes in SC components caused by NMF removal can be reversed by a subsequent addition of one single NMF component: urea, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or potassium lactate. Samples of intact SC were investigated using NMR, X-ray diffraction, infrared spectroscopy and sorption microbalance. It is shown that the removal of NMF leads to reduced molecular mobility in keratin filaments and SC lipids compared to untreated SC. When the complex NMF mixture is replaced by one single NMF component, the molecular mobility in both keratin filaments and lipids is regained. From this we propose a general relation between the molecular mobility in SC and the amount of polar solutes which does not appear specific to the precise chemical identify of the NMF compounds.

Glucocorticoid-Induced Skin Atrophy: The Old and the New.

Glucocorticoids are major therapeutic agents highly used in the medical field. Topical glucocorticoids have biologic activities which make them useful in dermatology – anti-inflammatory, vasoconstrictive, immune suppressive and antiproliferative, in treating inflammatory skin disorders (allergic contact eczema, atopic hand eczema, nummular eczema, psoriasis vulgaris or toxic-irritative eczema). Unfortunately, the beneficial effects of topical glucocorticoids are shadowed by their potential for adverse effects – muscle or skin atrophy, striae distensae, rubeosis or acne. Skin atrophy is one of the most prevalent side-effects, with changes found in all skin compartments – marked hypoplasia, elasticity loss with tearing, increased fragility, telangiectasia, bruising, cutaneous transparency, or a dysfunctional skin barrier. The structure and function of the epidermis is altered even in the short-term topical glucocorticoid treatment; it affects stratum corneum components, subsequently affecting skin barrier integrity. The dermis is altered by directly inhibiting fibroblast proliferation, reducing mast cell numbers, and loss of support; there is depletion of mucopolysaccharides, elastin fibers, matrix metalloproteases and inhibition of collagen synthesis. Atrophogenic changes can be found also in hair follicles, sebaceous glands or dermal adipose tissue. Attention should be paid to topical glucocorticoid treatment prescription, to the beneficial/adverse effects ratio of the chosen agent, and studies should be oriented on the development of newer, innovative targeted (gene or receptor) therapies.

Effect of superabsorbent polymers (SAP) and metal organic frameworks (MOF) wiping sandwich patch on human skin decontamination and detoxification in vitro

Most chemical warfare agents partition rapidly into stratum corneum (SC) and subsequently slowly diffuse through – or are retained in the membrane. Since chemicals can interact with SC components during the process, skin decontamination poses a challenging yet important problem. To address these issues, we have developed a new method in combination with wet and dry decon technologies with new materials for emergency or delayed contamination scenarios. An in vitro human skin diffusion system was employed to model various dermal exposures of radiolabeled chemical warfare simulants, followed by surface decontamination with metal organic frameworks (MOFs), super-absorbent polymers (SAP), and/or dermal decontamination gel (DDGel). All samples measured for radioactive recovery and acetylcholinesterase activity to ascertain relative decon efficacy. Results demonstrated powerful water absorption of SAP, strong catalysis of UiO-66 MOF, and decon enhancement of pre-wetting surface contaminants. SAP had no interfering interactions with MOF yet provided additional benefits as porosity and reactivity that allowed for fast liquidized chemical transportation, absorption, and degeneration. We then designed a cotton-based SAP/MOF patch that worked cooperatively in decontamination and detoxification. Together with pre-wet, SAP/MOF wipe, and DDGel applications, maximum effect was observed in early and/or extended dermal exposure, and no “wash-in” effect occurred.

LB921 Relationship between functional group interaction of lipid components in stratum corneum and barrier function of skin

LB921 Relationship between functional group interaction of lipid components in stratum corneum and barrier function of skin

Systematic Investigation of the Effect of Non-Ionic Emulsifiers on Skin by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy-A Comprehensive Lipid Analysis.

Non-ionic emulsifiers are commonly found in existing pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and have been widely employed to enhance the penetration and permeation of active ingredients into the skin. With the potential of disrupting skin barrier function and increasing fluidity of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, we herein examined the effects of two kinds of non-ionic emulsifiers on intercellular lipids of skin, using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with lipid signals on skin CRS spectrum. Non-ionic emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and sorbitan fatty acid esters were studied to obtain a deep understanding of the mechanism between non-ionic emulsifiers and SC lipids. Emulsifier solutions and dispersions were prepared and applied onto excised porcine skin. Water and sodium laureth sulfate solution (SLS) served as controls. SC lipid signals were analysed by CRS regarding lipid content, conformation and lateral packing order. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) sorbitan esters revealed no alteration of intercellular lipid properties while PEG-20 ethers appeared to have the most significant effects on reducing lipid content and interrupting lipid organization. In general, the polyoxyethylene chain and alkyl chain of PEG derivative emulsifiers might indicate their ability of interaction with SC components. HLB values remained critical for complete explanation of emulsifier effects on skin lipids. With this study, it is possible to characterize the molecular effects of non-ionic emulsifiers on skin lipids and further deepen the understanding of enhancing substance penetration with reduced skin barrier properties and increased lipid fluidity.

Effect of synthetic surfactants and soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L.) extract on skin-mimetic model lipid monolayers

The effect of a saponin-rich extract from rhizomes of Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis L) and four synthetic surfactants: sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), sodium laureth sulphate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulphate (ALS) and cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) on two model lipid monolayers is analyzed using surface pressure, surface dilatational rheology and fluorescence microscopy. The following monolayers were employed: dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine/cholesterol mixture in a molar ratio of 7:3 (DPPC/CHOL) and Ceramide [AP]/stearic acid/cholesterol in a molar ratio of 14:14:10 (CER/SA/CHOL). They mimicked a general bilayer structure and an intercellular lipid mixture, respectively. Both lipid mixtures on Milli-Q water were first compressed to the initial surface pressure, Π0 = 30 mN/m and then the subphase was exchanged with the respective (bio)surfactant solution at 1% (w/w). All four synthetic surfactants behaved in a similar way: they increased surface pressure to about 40 mN/m and reduced the storage modulus of surface dilational surface rheology, E′, to the values close to zero. The corresponding fluorescence microscopy pictures confirmed that the lipids mimicking the stratum corneum components were almost completely removed by the synthetic surfactants under the present experimental conditions. The components of the Soapwort extract (SAP) increased surface pressure to significantly higher values than the synthetic surfactants, but even more spectacular increase was observed for the storage modulus of the SAP-penetrated lipid monolayers (up to E′= 715 mN/m).

Optical clearing agent reduces scattering of light by the stratum corneum and modulates the physical properties of coenocytes via hydration.

The interaction between light and the skin determine how the skin looks to the human eye. Light can be absorbed, scattered, and reflected by different components of the skin in a variety of different ways. Here, we focus on the scattering properties of the outmost layer, the stratum corneum (SC). However, we currently have limited methods with which to distinguish the scattering of light by SC from the changes due to other components of the skin. Dark-field images of tape-striped corneocytes were used in vitro to study the differences in light scattered by the SC and other skin components. Several optical clearing agents (OCAs) were tested for their ability to reduce light scattering. Physical properties of the SC (water content, keratin configuration, and volume) after OCA treatment were investigated using FT-IR, confocal Raman microscopy, and 3D laser microscopy. Urea derivatives, several reducing sugars, and sugar alcohols, which were used as OCA in optics and also used as humectants in cosmetic area, could reduce scattering. However, unlike dehydration in optics, penetration of water into the keratin was increased at low OCA concentrations. In such conditions, the volume of corneocytes was increased but their stiffness was reduced. By analyzing the tape-striped SC, we were able to measure the changes in the optical and physical properties of corneocytes in response to OCAs. Hydration of the SC layer by OCAs reduces light scattering from the corneocytes and would be helpful in moisturizing the skin and helping the skin look healthy.