Abstract
One of the main functions of the skin is to provide an optimal water level for normal physiological function and maintain its biophysical properties, including elasticity. The aim of this study was to demonstrate clinically the moisturizing effect of AVENE thermal spring water (TSW) and explain the mechanism of action involved, using biophysical analysis of the stratum corneum (SC) approaches. Skin electric capacitance was used to assess the hydration level of the skin outermost layers of 24 volunteers, using corneometry, after 6 daily applications of AVENE TSW for 7 days. The persistence of this effect was analyzed for 20 hours after the last application. In addition, ex vivo raman spectroscopy was performed on isolated SC. Hydration level and barrier function were directly monitored by following the different vibrational contributions of water and lipids in the SC Raman spectra. We clinically observed a significant improvement in hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis which persisted for 20 hours after the last application compared to baseline and to untreated area. Indeed, skin was less dehydrated for 20 hours after the last application. In addition, Raman experiments showed that AVENE TSW application on SC contributes to high global water content and retention. Besides the water content, the water structure and mobility were of high importance, and the high relative amount of partially bound water compared to tightly bound and unbound water can be related to a better capacity of the water to interact with SC components. In parallel, it maintains high conformational order of the lipid matrix, beneficial for skin barrier function and hydration. Altogether, these data demonstrated how the high moisturizing properties of AVENE TSW topically applied on skin subjects, is associated with SC hydration and barrier function improvement.
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