Slow Food Presidium Research Articles

Application of SPORT algorithm on ATR-FTIR data: A rapid and green tool for the characterization and discrimination of three typical Italian Pecorino cheeses

Three certified Pecorino cheeses, protected designation of origin (PDO) Pecorino Romano, PDO Pecorino Sardo, and Pecorino di Farindola (Slow Food Presidium specialty), produced in Central Italy were analyzed by attenuated total reflectance-fourier transformed infrared (ATR-FTIR) spectroscopy and classified according to their manufacture and/or different cheesemaking process they underwent. The ATR-FTIR spectra were processed by partial least squares-discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) to be used as benchmark method. Moreover, the multi-block strategy sequential preprocessing through orthogonalization (SPORT), based on sequential and orthogonalized partial least squares (SO-PLS), was applied in order to test whether association of spectra preprocessings could enhance the prediction rates. Eventually, the best results were achieved by the multi-block approach, which allows obtaining an accuracy of 98.33% (corresponding to two misclassified samples over 120) in external validation.

ATR-FTIR-based rapid solution for the discrimination of lentils from different origins, with a special focus on PGI and Slow Food typical varieties

Three hundred forty-six (346) samples of lentils have been collected and analyzed by ATR-MIR spectroscopy. Of the investigated individuals, 283 were harvested in two Central-Italy regions (Umbria and Abruzzo), whereas the others were grown in Canada. At first, Partial Least Squares Discriminant Analysis (PLS-DA) was used to discriminate samples among the three origins. The outcome of PLS-DA analysis was noteworthy: only one individual (over 86 of the external test set) was erroneously assigned by the model, indicating the suitability of the proposed approach. Furthermore, Variable Importance in Projection (VIP) was exploited to inquire which spectral variables significantly contribute to the discrimination. Eventually, the focus has been circumscribed to two categories of high-valued lentils, e.g., lentils from Castelluccio di Norcia (CDN), a sub-set of the Umbria class, and from Santo Stefano di Sessanio (SSS), a sub-set of the Abruzzo class. These are of particular interest because CDN presents the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) while SSS belongs to the Slow Food Presidium. The models for these classes provided interesting results.

Cultural biodiversity unpacked, separating discourse from practice

In this article, we question to what extent origin-food labels, namely Geographical Indications (GIs) and Slow Food Presidia, may effectively account for cultural biodiversity (CB). Building on Foucault’s discourse theory, we question how the Slow Food movement and GI promoters have developed their own discourse and practice on CB, how these discourses contrast, and how they inform projects. Focusing on the practices to cultivate the microbiological life of three origin labeled cheeses (from France and Italy), we have revealed the gap between these institutional discourses and what happens on the ground. We argue that how actors’ relationships in the marketplace unfold, from public authorities to the collectives of producers to consumers, may threaten the effects that these experiences of alternative food productions may have in the defense of biodiversity, causing, for instance, the loss of diversity of the invisible microbial ecosystems of artisan raw milk cheese. However, we conclude that, despite limitations, the mediatized institutional narrative on CB can amplify the political voice of local actors by fostering community and social relationships between the farmers.

Origin food schemes and the paradox of reducing diversity to defend it

AbstractOrigin food schemes (OFS) aim to protect and promote a unique product resulting from a specific place and know‐how whose qualities are objectified in the product specifications. This paper explores the standardisation effects of OFS on the diversity of local practices and knowledge by analysing the emergence of the specifications of four origin cheeses recognised as Geographical Indications and Slow Food Presidia (Chefchaouen goat cheese in Morocco, Piacentinu Ennese in Italy, and Béarn mountain cheese and Ossau‐Iraty in France). Results confirm that specifications directly preserve some genetic resources, taste, and know‐how, whilst they also show that traditional production practices are taken into account differently, depending on negotiations among stakeholders during which opposing motives, strategies, and forms of knowledge may emerge. We argue that paradoxically this process results in adapting and reducing existing diversity, including in OFS that are more oriented towards localising practices and promoting a diversity of tastes.

BRANDING MISHAVINË CHEESE: A CONTRIBUTION OF THE RURAL ALBANIAN ECONOMY

In Albania, the region of Kelmend is best known and valued for the Mishavinë cheese which is produced there. In this paper we analyse the farmers’ experience of origin-based cheese and being part of the Slow Food Presidium of products in Albania. The role of local producers is fundamental not only in continuing tradition but also for the social and economic impact it has on farmers in the area. The survey in this study was conducted with face-to-face interviews with producers of Mishavinë cheese. The type of survey used was a semi-closed questionnaire. A descriptive analysis was conducted to evaluate the main problems facing the local producers and their collaboration among the relevant stakeholders. As Mishavinë is part of Slow Food the Ark of Taste project, it has a great opportunity to bring producers and consumers together with the aim of regenerating this lost tradition.

Microbial, chemico-physical and volatile aromatic compounds characterization of Pitina PGI, a peculiar sausage-like product of North East Italy

Pitina is a fermented sausage-like produced in the mountainous area of the North-East Italy by artisanal plants without the use of both selected starters and casing (Slow Food Presidium). Originally, Pitina has been a way of preserving meat and it is manifactured by meat from ungulates mixed with pork lard, smoked, dryed and ripened.In this study, microbial ecology, physic-chemical parameters, and volatile aromatic compounds of Pitina SR and LR, which differ by the duration of ripening processes, were investigated. Results showed the good hygienic quality. Staphylococcus xylosus and Lactobacillus sakei were responsible for the ripening. Other Coagulase-negative Catalase-positive Cocci (CNCPC) and LAB species were identified: S. equorum, S. warneri, S. succinus and Carnobacterium divergens, Streptococcus equinus, Kocuria rhizophila. Giberella moniliformis and Penicillium turbatum were the only mould species isolated. Strain characterization demonstrated a high genetic variability. Raw meat, environment and ripening conditions seemed to affect strains distribution, which had an impact on the aromatic profile of the product.

Contested knowledge: changing practices in origin-food communities

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to investigate how communities engaged in the valorisation of origin food through Geographical Indications (GIs) and Slow Food Presidia can be resilient to changing conditions and able to innovate their practices.Design/methodology/approachThis paper uses the concept of “community of practices” (CoP) to explore the learning processes occurring in three origin cheese initiatives located in France and Morocco.FindingsLearning processes surpass the border of the governing body and encompass competitors and consumers. Discrepancies between what is codified and what is done lead to a dynamic redefinition of both specifications and communities. Such initiatives are frameworks for envisioning possible futures emerging from controversies.Originality/valueThis paper compares two localised agrofood systems initiatives (GIs and Slow Food Presidia), based on evidence from two European and an African cases. The analytical frame of “CoP” sheds light on the underestimated dynamic effect of controversies on knowledge.

Quality and Nutritional Evaluation of Regina Tomato, a Traditional Long-Storage Landrace of Puglia (Southern Italy)

Regina tomato, a locally cultivated Italian landrace, is listed as an item in the ‘List of Traditional Agri-Food Products’ of the Italian Department for Agriculture and itemised as ‘Slow Food presidium’ by the Slow Food Foundation. It is classified as a long-storage tomato since it can be preserved for several months after harvest thanks to its thick and coriaceous skin. Three ecotypes were investigated for main physical and chemical traits both at harvest and after three months of storage. Experimental results indicate that this tomato landrace has a qualitative profile characterized by high concentrations of tocopherols, lycopene and ascorbic acid (maximum 28.6 and 53.7 mg/kg fresh weight, FW, and 0.28 mg/g FW, respectively) even after a long storage time, together with lower average Total Soluble Solids. The initial and post-storage contents of the bioactive compounds changed at a different rate in each ecotype (i.e., in Monopoli Regina tomato the highest content of α-Tocopherol, thereafter reduced to the same level of the other two ecotypes). These results indicate unique and unmistakable features of this long-storage tomato, closely linked to the geographic origin area that include both natural (available technical inputs) and human (specific cultural practices) factors.

Varietal traceability of bread ‘Pane Nero di Castelvetrano’ by denaturing high pressure liquid chromatography analysis of single nucleotide polymorphisms

DNA-based traceability is a very powerful tool to allow the identification of genetic material along the food production chain. In particular, it is able to verify the presence of a certain cultivar in order to meet the quality claims of local and certified products, or to detect any adulteration or contamination. The aim of this work was to apply the Denaturing High Performance Liquid Chromatography (DHPLC) technique for setting up a Single Nucleotide Polymorphism (SNP)-based method to achieve the varietal traceability of the durum wheat cultivar ‘Timilia’ in the ‘Pane Nero di Castelvetrano’ (Castelvetrano Black Bread) Slow Food Presidium. The DHPLC technique was optimized using 20 SNPs (8 transitions and 12 transversions) for both the starting whole meals and the corresponding breads, giving comparable results represented by an amount of detectable Timilia cv. ranging from 2.5% to 60% or more, thus providing an efficient tool to trace such cultivar in bread claimed to be Pane Nero di Castelvetrano. The obtained results represent the first application of DHPLC in the field of food science, and will help to preserve the authenticity of Pane Nero di Castelvetrano.

Chemical Profile of the Carpino Broad Bean by Conventional and Innovative Physicochemical Analyses

AbstractA detailed chemical characterization of a typical Apulian legume, the Carpino broad bean, was obtained. Crude proteins, moisture, phosphorus, ash and energy content were evaluated on starting seeds, half‐ripening beans and final products. Stable isotope ratios (15N/14N and 13C/12C), major (Ca, Mg, Na and K) and trace metals (Zn, Mo, Mn, Cu, Fe, Cr, Cd, Ni and Co) were also assessed. Moreover, information on a large number of metabolites was obtained by 1H high‐resolution magic‐angle spinning nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. The data revealed that Carpino broad bean dry seeds supply adequate protein and energy content, 28.1% and 326 kcal, respectively, being also a good source of macro‐ and microelements. In particular, the iron content was 46.0 mg/kg: this potentially provides about 33% of the recommended daily allowance by a 100 g serving. Moreover, the analyzed samples seem to lack elements considered potentially harmful for health.Practical ApplicationsThe Carpino broad bean is a native faba bean cultivar, traditionally cultivated in small quantities in Gargano (Southern Italy). It is commonly considered a traditional food product with interesting nutritional properties. At present, the Carpino broad bean has still not received an official European label as typical product, but it is a Slow Food presidium, this remarks its considerable socio‐cultural, nutritional and environmental values. Even if restricted to a limited geographic area, this typical and appreciable cultivation should be protected from extinction, preserving territory identity and working techniques; therefore, it is essential to explore ways to prove the Carpino broad bean quality and peculiarities, starting from a physicochemical characterization, that has not been presented in detail until now, and that could be a considerable basis for an official valorization of this product, for instance, for the attainment of EU Protected Designation of Origin/Protected Geographical Indication (EU PDO/PGI) labels.

Flavonol content and biometrical traits as a tool for the characterization of “Cipolla di Giarratana”: A traditional Sicilian onion landrace

“Cipolla di Giarratana”, a locally cultivated white onion landrace, is listed as an item in the ‘List of Traditional Agro-food Products’ of the Italian Department for Agriculture and itemised as ‘slow food presidium’ by the Slow Food Foundation. Ten local accessions were investigated for their biomorphological and biochemical characteristics in five experimental locations. High-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and electron spray-mass spectrometry (HPLC/DAD/ESI-MS) was used to identify the phenolic profile and quantify phenolic content in bulbs: quercetin, quercetin 3,4′ di-O-glucoside and quercetin 4′-O-glucoside were detected as major components. The ‘Cipolla di Giarratana’ landrace is characterised by a high bulb weight (436g) and high diameter (11cm). The total flavonols content ranged between 68 and 408mgkg−1 bulb fresh weight in nine of the 10 collected accessions. The opportunity of considering flavonol patterns as chemotaxonomic descriptors in order to characterise onion germplasm is also discussed.

Perry

Perry is a fermented beverage made from the juice of particular varieties of primitive pears. These fruit are inedible and are thought to be closely related to wild pears. Like cider, perry can be dry or sweet, sparkling or still, and it can have an alcohol content as high as 8.5 percent. Some of the finer bottle-fermented artisanal perrys have been likened to Champagne. (Perry should not be confused with ““pear cider,”” an over-sweet, industrial product frequently made from pear concentrate, often with the flavor of bubblegum.) Traditionally made in the Three Counties of Herefordshire, Worcestershire, and Gloucestershire surrounding the Malvern Hills near the Welsh border, perry is such a geographically specific product that it has been granted PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status by the European Union. It is also in the Slow Food Presidia, which protects gastronomic heritage and traditions. More than 100 varieties of perry pear are still extant, with quaint names such as Late Treacle, Merrylegs, Painted Lady, and Stinking Bishop. Historically a farmer would plant an orchard comprising up to six varieties of perry pears, not only for blending purposes to achieve a preferred flavor, but also to stagger the flowering period to prevent the entire crop from suffering simultaneous frost damage, and to spread the load at harvest time in late autumn. Each farm would make perry for consumption by family and farm workers, as it was a safer alternative to possibly contaminated drinking water. A perry orchard would also provide pasture underneath its boughs for sheep and cattle until just prior to harvest, to prevent the stock from eating the fallen fruit. In recent years there has been a marked revival of interest in this traditional beverage. These days there are more than half a dozen artisan producers, although production is limited by the supply of fruit, as perry pear trees can take up to forty years to reach maturity.

Analisi della sostenibilitŕ economica di un sistema di sviluppo locale: simulazione ad agenti di configurazioni dei meccanismi cooperativi tra produttori

- The author presents a formal model of cooperative dynamics in a local development system, with a specific focus on the evaluation of institutional interventions undertaken by stakeholders aiming at supporting cooperation.Keywords: agent-based social simulation, Slowfood presidia, voluntary public good provision, conditional cooperation, rural local development systems

Heterozygosity analysis of Bionda Piemontese and Bianca di Saluzzo chicken breeds by microsatellites markers: a preliminary study

Conservation of genetic variability is one of the main goals in animal production science and the analysis of breeds genetic asset can supply objective basis for effective conservation programs and selection strategies. Bionda Piemontese(PIB) and Bianca di Saluzzo (SAB) chicken breeds originated in Piemonte region. Breeds conservation programmes started in 1999 in Verzuolo (CN) aiming to preserve the breeds and to improve their diffusion being particularly adapted to freerange rearing systems thanks to their resistance. PIB and SAB are both suggested for traditional recipes and production (e.g. Morozzo capon) and are Slow Food presidia. A total of 76 birds were analysed: PIB (n=36), SAB (n=40). Genomic DNA was extracted from blood samples. All birds were genotyped at eight microsatellite loci. Each marker was subjected to PCRand the products were separated by electrophoresis in 4.2% denaturing polyacrylamide gels on ABI Prism 377 DNA Sequencerequipped with Genescan and Genotyper software. The results of this preliminary study highlight the genetic differences occurring between PIB and SAB populations

Slow Food's Presidia: What do Small Producers do with Big Retailers?

The paper deals with the transformation of local agrofood systems, in the context of the turn to “the economy of qualities” and the rural development paradigm. We will discuss a case study from Italy, specifically an agreement between Slow Food and Coop Italia concerning the Ark of Taste's Presidia, aiming at the protection of typical products and food traditions.The agreement is analysed as a change of strategy, implying a transformation of the local agrofood system from “local production for local consumers” to “local production for distant consumers”. The change is substantial and implies a restructuring of the entire local food network.

List of Contributors

Citation (2006), "List of Contributors", Marsden, T. and Jonathan Murdoch†, J. (Ed.) Between the Local and the Global (Research in Rural Sociology and Development, Vol. 12), Emerald Group Publishing Limited, Bingley, pp. ix-x. https://doi.org/10.1016/S1057-1922(06)12016-8 Publisher: Emerald Group Publishing Limited Copyright © 2006, Emerald Group Publishing Limited Book Chapters List of Contributors Editorial Advisory Board Preface and Dedication Introduction between the Local and the Global: Confronting Complexity in the Contemporary Food Sector Network Theories and Political Economy: From Attrition to Convergence? Differentiated Standardization, Standardized Differentiation: The Complexity of the Global Agrifood System Audit Cultures and the Antipodes: The Implications of EurepGAP for New Zealand and Australian Agri-food Industries Neoliberalism and the Problem of Space: Competing Rationalities of Governance in Fair Trade and Mainstream Agri-Environmental Networks Post-Rural Processes in Wealthy Rural Areas: Hybrid Networks and Symbolic Capital Highlighting the Retro Side of Innovation and its Potential for Regime Change in Agriculture The Dynamics of Local Development: From Hunger to Quality Food Cases from Northeastern Brazil Slow Food's Presidia: What do Small Producers do with Big Retailers? Just Values or Just Value? Remaking the Local in Agro-Food Studies Exploring Dimensions of Qualities in Food Alternative Food Networks in the South West of England: Towards a New Agrarian Eco-Economy? The Strategic Turn of Organic Farming in Europe: From a Resource Based to an Entrepreneurial Approach of Organic Marketing Initiatives