Skirt Length Research Articles

Periodical Analysis of the Changes in the Length of Women's Jackets and Skirts from 1960 to 1998

Periodical Analysis of the Changes in the Length of Women's Jackets and Skirts from 1960 to 1998

A Study on Change in the Length of Knit Flare Skirt through Mechanical Properties

Abstract The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at 180°, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

Fashion design styles recommended by consumers' sensibility and emotion

AbstractTo develop high‐quality and consumer‐oriented sensible textiles and fashion designs, a design expert system using the collaborative filtering personalization technique was set up, and its efficiency with the user interface model was examined. A database for 60 textiles, 41 fashion designs, 28 pairs of sensibility words and connection mechanisms, and a 2‐D cyber product visualized model with user‐manipulating keys was established. It includes feedback of the recommended fashion design that matches the user's sensibility by using visual element adjustment tools provided by the system. Also, through Type III analysis of variance (ANOVA), the most important design category of developing each sensibility on women's dress was found. For the example of contemporary sensibility, the most effective category was skirt length, then sleeve type, color tone, collar type, and the skirt type. All the styles of each category were positioned in 3‐D sensibility, using scores of factor analysis from the factors Contemporary, Adult, and Character. The similarity and difference among the fashion style by positioning in 3‐D space of sensibility can be visualized. © 2009 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

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A Study on the Seamless Knitting Method of Knitted Flare Skirts

The purpose of this study was to observe the changes of skirt length of knitted flare skirts when the seamless test garments were made which had been having full shape while being knitted and to change and amend the challenges in advance when those were knitted. For this study, I made 6 kinds of knitted test garments of wool 100% yarn with seamless knitting machine, which differed from each other by skirt angles () and gauges (7G, 12G, 15G), and then I measured deflection changes of their length for 2 weeks. Findings and conclusions drawn from this study were as follows: First, the side seam line of full shape hecame somewhat longer than center. Second, 7G and knitted flare skirt showed the biggest length deflection changes. Third, there was no difference at rear waist deflection changes between front pattern and rear. Fourth, it was difficult to control the tensions of right and left strings as to the knitting directions.

Finite element modelling of steelpan acoustics

In this paper the finite element method is used to model acoustic vibrations of steelpan shells. The steelpan surface is characterized as a three-dimensional compound shell, comprising notes (surfaces with reverse curvature) on a concave ellipsoidal surface attached to a cylindrical shell (the skirt). In this model note and inter-note surfaces are defined by geometric parameters which can be varied to define complex surface geometries. The geometric mesh model is used develop tenor, cello and bass steelpans instruments and a 3D finite element shell vibration algorithm is used to demonstrate their vibration characteristics. Modes shapes and frequencies of the composite shell structures are computed for typical configurations of note and skirt geometry. The model demonstrates that there exist many composite natural modes of a playing surface involving the interaction between two or more notes. In addition, it is found that the frequency range of mode shapes associated primarily within skirt vibration overlaps with the musical range of the notes underscoring the potential for “skirt-note” coupling. The degree of frequency overlap was found to be largely dependent on skirt length and configuration.

Impressional evaluation of the lower body wearing the different skirt length

Impressional evaluation of the lower body wearing the different skirt length

Optical Waveguide Films With Two-Layer Skirt-Type Core Structures for Beam Leakage/Scattering Reduction at Tapered Mirrors

Using the self-organized lightwave network (SOLNET) technique, we observed guided beam leakage and scattering at tapered mirrors of core end facets in optical waveguide Alms. The leakage/scattering are caused by the tunneling of guided beams into the cladding film and pattern imperfection of core edge corners. To reduce them, we proposed the two-layer skirt-type core structure, where a core has a layered structure of low-index (LI) part and high-index (HI) part. The LI part located between the HI part and the cladding film prevents guided beams from tunneling into the cladding film. The skirt-type shape of core end facets puts core edge corners away from the guided beam paths. The beam propagation method and the finite-difference time-domain method revealed that the leakage/scattering are reduced in the proposed core structure. Optical waveguide films with the two-layer skirt-type core structure were fabricated by the built-in mask method. Appropriate skirt lengths were found to be around core widths. Guided beams were confined into the HI part to reduce the tunneling into the cladding film.

Impedance of flexible suction caissons

AbstractThe dynamic response of offshore wind turbines is affected by the properties of the foundation and the subsoil. The aim of this paper is to evaluate the dynamic soil–structure interaction of suction caissons for offshore wind turbines. The investigations include evaluation of the vertical and coupled sliding–rocking vibrations, influence of the foundation geometry and examination on the properties of the surrounding soil. The soil is simplified as a homogenous linear viscoelastic material and the dynamic stiffness of the suction caisson is expressed in terms of dimensionless frequency‐dependent coefficients corresponding to different degrees of freedom. The dynamic stiffness coefficients for the skirted foundation are evaluated using a three‐dimensional coupled boundary element/finite element model. Comparisons with known analytical and numerical solutions indicate that the static and dynamic behaviours of the foundation are predicted accurately using the applied model. The analysis has been carried out for different combinations of the skirt length, Poisson's ratio of the subsoil and the ratio of the soil stiffness to the skirt stiffness. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Wave-induced motions of an air cushion structure in shallow water

Model tests were conducted on two 1:100 scaled models of a typical concrete gravity substructure at the University of Western Australia. The two models had dimensions 0.5 m length×0.5 m width with the first model being a sealed closed bottom box of height 0.1 m and the second model being an open bottom box with skirt length of 0.1 m. The mass of the air cushion model was changed to accommodate various water plug heights within the skirt chamber. Each model was floated at a constant draft of 0.1 m and tested in water depths ranging between 0.03 m (shallow) and 0.8 m (deep). The environment comprised regular waves with periods ranging between 0.6 and 3.5 s and amplitude of 0.08–0.02 m. To quantify the dynamic response the heave and pitch motions of each model were measured. A simplified theoretical solution based on long wavelength, linear wave assumptions was developed and applied to the geometries in consideration. Improvements to the theory are sought using the forcing function from a boundary element code, as well as utilizing added mass coefficients from free decay experiments. Results show that experimental trends compare reasonably well with analytical solution in particular for periods longer than the natural period. The results show that introducing air cushion support into a CGS increases the pitch response, while having little effect of the heave motion.

Design procedures for installation of suction caissons in clay and other materials

Suction-installed skirted foundations, often referred to as suction caissons, are increasingly being used for a variety of offshore applications. In designing a caisson a geotechnical engineer must consider the installation process as well as the in-place performance. The purpose of this paper is to present calculation procedures for the installation of a caisson in clay. For clay sites, the caisson will often be used as an anchor, with the ratio of the skirt length (L) to the diameter (D) as high as 5. Calculation methods are presented for determining the resistance to penetration of open-ended cylindrical caisson foundations with and without the application of suction inside the caisson. Comparisons between predictions and case records are made. A companion paper describes the calculation procedure for installation in sand soils. Finally, comments are made here about installation in a variety of soils other than homogeneous deposits of clay or sand.

Design procedures for installation of suction caissons in clay and other materials

Suction-installed skirted foundations, often referred to as suction caissons, are increasingly being used for a variety of offshore applications. In designing a caisson a geotechnical engineer must consider the installation process as well as the in-place performance. The purpose of this paper is to present calculation procedures for the installation of a caisson in clay. For clay sites, the caisson will often be used as an anchor, with the ratio of the skirt length (L) to the diameter (D) as high as 5. Calculation methods are presented for determining the resistance to penetration of open-ended cylindrical caisson foundations with and without the application of suction inside the caisson. Comparisons between predictions and case records are made. A companion paper describes the calculation procedure for installation in sand soils. Finally, comments are made here about installation in a variety of soils other than homogeneous deposits of clay or sand.

Front and Back Covers. Volume 20, Number 4. August 2004

Front and back cover caption, volume 20 issue 4Second‐hand clothing.A master tailor, his son (on the right) and two relatives, all making women's office wear and chitenge (printed cloth) outfits, Kamwala shopping centre, Lusaka, Zambia. This photo illustrates Karen Tranberg Hansen's article on second‐hand clothing in this issue (pp. 3‐9).Zambians from all walks of life like to dress well, and this results in a thriving clothing industry in all sectors, from imported new and second‐hand clothing and locally manufactured items to bespoke garments made by small‐scale tailors. Such tailors play an important role in fulfilling clothing needs and desires that are not met by new and second‐hand ready‐made clothing. Male and female tailors ply their trade in public markets, shop corridors, and from private homes in cities and small towns across the country. Many of them have engaged actively with the challenge posed by the import of second‐hand clothing, 'beating' it, in the words of one master tailor, through speciality production.Diversifying his production into popular styles of women's wear, the master tailor in this photo trained his son and two younger relatives. They are kept busy with the changes each season in fashions in women's two‐piece 'office wear' and chitenge wear (which has become very popular in recent years thanks to the ready availablity, in an open economy, of good‐quality and attractive printed cloth imported from South and Southeast Asia and from the Far East). 'Office wear' sees changes in the length and style of shirts and tops, and in the detailing of decorative trim, while fashions in chitenge wear show varying skirt styles and lengths, fitted or loose tops, elaborate trim, and highly constructed sleeves. Zambia's example demonstrates that the much maligned second‐hand clothing import trade can coexist comfortably with local initiatives in clothing production.

A comparison of the combined load behaviour of spudcan and caisson foundations on soft normally consolidated clay

Experimental data from loading tests of model circular footings on soft normally consolidated clay are presented. The experiments were carried out on a drum centrifuge at a radial acceleration level equivalent to 100 times Earth's gravity, ensuring conditions of stress similitude between the model and the prototype scale. The aim of the experiments was to compare the undrained response of different offshore foundations to the same loading conditions. Two different types of foundation were targeted for investigation: spudcans and suction caissons. The spudcan, typically an inverted shallow cone, is the traditional footing for mobile drilling units (also known as jack-up rigs). An alternative foundation concept that is being increasingly considered is that of foundations skirted about the perimeter and installed by suction. A loading arm that incorporated an internal hinge was used so that combinations of load appropriate to the foundations of jack-up units could be applied to the models. Although it was anticipated that, by using skirted foundations there would be increased moment capacity, this was not found to be the case (for the caisson skirt length and soil strength profile investigated). However, there was a stiffer response and additional horizontal capacity at the foundation level. Significantly the use of skirted foundations allowed for a greater combined loading capacity under tensile vertical loads. The results have been interpreted within the framework of strain-hardening plasticity theory, and comparisons with existing yield surfaces are detailed.

A comparison of the combined load behaviour of spudcan and caisson foundations on soft normally consolidated clay

Experimental data from loading tests of model circular footings on soft normally consolidated clay are presented. The experiments were carried out on a drum centrifuge at a radial acceleration level equivalent to 100 times Earth's gravity, ensuring conditions of stress similitude between the model and the prototype scale. The aim of the experiments was to compare the undrained response of different offshore foundations to the same loading conditions. Two different types of foundation were targeted for investigation: spudcans and suction caissons. The spudcan, typically an inverted shallow cone, is the traditional footing for mobile drilling units (also known as jack-up rigs). An alternative foundation concept that is being increasingly considered is that of foundations skirted about the perimeter and installed by suction. A loading arm that incorporated an internal hinge was used so that combinations of load appropriate to the foundations of jack-up units could be applied to the models. Although it was anticipated that, by using skirted foundations there would be increased moment capacity, this was not found to be the case (for the caisson skirt length and soil strength profile investigated). However, there was a stiffer response and additional horizontal capacity at the foundation level. Significantly the use of skirted foundations allowed for a greater combined loading capacity under tensile vertical loads. The results have been interpreted within the framework of strain-hardening plasticity theory, and comparisons with existing yield surfaces are detailed.

A parametric study of the pull-out capacity of bucket foundations in soft clay

This paper investigates the effect of several parameters on the pull-out capacity of bucket foundations in soft clay. These parameters are load inclination, skirt length, foundation diameter, soil adhesion and soil anisotropy. Initially the soil is assumed to be isotropic soft clay, and is represented using a form of the modified Cam clay model. Some recent laboratory experiments performed in a hollow cylinder apparatus, which were designed to investigate strength anisotropy of a particular silt soil, are then used to represent the behaviour of an anisotropic soft clay. The anisotropic behaviour is simulated using anisotropic soil model MIT-E3. Both models are then used in finite element analyses to predict the behaviour of bucket foundations on pull-out. All analyses were performed using the three-dimensional Fourier series aided finite element method (FSAFEM).

A parametric study of the pull-out capacity of bucket foundations in soft clay

This paper investigates the effect of several parameters on the pull-out capacity of bucket foundations in soft clay. These parameters are load inclination, skirt length, foundation diameter, soil adhesion and soil anisotropy. Initially the soil is assumed to be isotropic soft clay, and is represented using a form of the modified Cam clay model. Some recent laboratory experiments performed in a hollow cylinder apparatus, which were designed to investigate strength anisotropy of a particular silt soil, are then used to represent the behaviour of an anisotropic soft clay. The anisotropic behaviour is simulated using anisotropic soil model MIT-E3. Both models are then used in finite element analyses to predict the behaviour of bucket foundations on pull-out. All analyses were performed using the three-dimensional Fourier series aided finite element method (FSAFEM).

Fads and fashion in economic reforms: Washington Consensus or Washington Confusion?

What changes more often the fashion designs coming from Paris and Milan or the economic policy designs Washington and Wall Street prescribe for countries that are less developed or that are emerging from decades of communism? While this comparison may seem frivolous, a review of the ideas that have guided thinking and action about economic reforms in this decade shows that they are as faddish as skirt lengths and tie widths. The difference, of course, is that economic policy fashions affect the way millions of people live and define their children's chances of a better future. Ideas about what makes a country prosperous have always been fickle. This decade has been no different in terms of the variety and volatility of the policy prescriptions that became dominant among academics, policy makers and the better-informed segments of the world's population. The 1990s, however, have been different in one significant respect: during this decade the world has been under the impression that there was a clear and robust consensus about what a poor country should do to become more prosperous. This misimpression clearly owes a lot to the surprising popularity of the term 'Washington consensus' the name that economist John Williamson gave in 1989 to a list of 10 policy recommendations for countries willing to reform their economies.' The general ideas derived from the Washington Consensus had a huge influence on the economic reforms of many countries. Yet the way these countries interpreted such ideas varied substantially and their actual implementation even more so. Moreover, the original 10 policy prescriptions of the Washington Consensus reigned unchallenged for only a short time. Changes in the international economic and political environment and new domestic realities in the reforming countries created problems the Consensus did not envision or encompass, thus forcing the search for new answers. The newfound answers often complemented the recommendations originally offered by the Washington Consensus, but some also ran counter to them. The wildly gyrating ideas about controls on foreign capital or about exchange rate regimes that have been offered at different times are good examples of the lack of consensus or indeed the confusion that prevailed among the experts. Moreover, throughout the decade, both the general media and expert commentators often characterised the reforms implemented in countries as different as MoisesNaim is the Editor-in-Chief of Foreign Policy, 1779MassachusettsAvenue, Washington, DC20036, USA.

Washington Consensus or Washington Confusion?

W-hat changes more often, the fashion designs coming from Paris and Milan or the economic policy designs that and Wall Street prescribe to less developed or post-communist countries? Although this comparison may seem frivolous, a review of the ideas that guided thinking and action about economic reforms in the 1990s shows they were as faddish as skirt lengths and tie widths. The difference, of course, is that fashions in economic policy affect how millions of people live and define their children's opportunity for a better future. Ideas about what makes a country prosperous have always been capricious. The last decade was no different in terms of the variety and volatility of the policy prescriptions that became dominant among academics, policy makers, and the better informed segments of the world's population. However, the 1990s were distinctive in one significant respect: The world was under the impression that a clear and robust consensus existed about what poor countries should do to become more prosperous. This delusion owed much to the surprising popularity of the term Washington Consensus, the name that economist John Williamson gave in 1989 to a list of 10 policy recommendations for countries willing to reform their economies [see box on page 89].

Seen But Not Heard

Seen But Not Heard