Silk Garments Research Articles

Karnataka and India’s Silk Industry: A Comprehensive Analysis of Sericulture Dynamics

India is the second largest producer of silk with 36,453 MT (2022-23) after China and also the largest consumer of silk in the world. Asia is the main producer of silk in the world and produces over 95 per cent of the total global output. In India, mulberry silk is produced mainly in the states of Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Jammu & Kashmir and West Bengal, while the non-mulberry silks are produced in Jharkhand, Chattisgarh, Orissa and North-Eastern states. Much of silk exports earnings is from silk garments, silk carpets and silk wastes, which is about 1,773.38 crore Rs. in total in 2022–23. Mulberry is the largest contributor to the total raw silk production with the compound annual growth rate of 3.09 per cent at 1 per cent level of significance. Tasar silk production registered highest growth rate of 13.67 per cent at 1 per cent level of significance and Jharkhand is the major contributor of about 80 per cent for the total tasar silk production. Karnataka is the leading producer of mulberry silk whereas Assam is currently the largest producer of Vanya silk. Telangana registered a highest compound annual growth rate of 21.1 per cent at 1 per cent level of significance followed by Maharashtra (16.9%). Ramanagara is having highest area under mulberry (20804.56 hectares) followed by Chikkaballapura (20544.62 hectares) and Kolar (19907.79 hectares) in Karnataka.

Silk in the Muslim Sartorial Code: The Making, Collaboration, and Separation of the Ulama and the Political Elites ca. 7th-10th Century

Lavish silk textiles have drawn considerable attention of historians that have been dedicated to studying the Islamic sartorial code. How changes in the style of silk garments were able to illustrate political development in the Islamic empire, however, was a topic that academic scholars have rarely touched upon. This essay is dedicated to examining how the establishment and development of the Sunni Muslim silk sartorial code is as much the making of the Ulama as the making of the political elites.

Effect of a novel press washing mode on appearance and mechanical properties of silk garments: comparison with hand washing and front-loading machine washing

Silk garments with its unique luster, softness and glamour has always occupied an important position in the fashion market. However, such fabrics present difficulties in daily care and tend to deteriorate in visual perception after laundering. Panasonic in 2021 has therefore launched a novel washing mode characterized by up-and-down soft pressure and vacuum dehydration to address the mechanical damage of common household washing methods to the silk garments. In this study, the effect of the press washing mode on the appearance and mechanical properties of silk garments based on common household laundering scenarios was investigated by comparing with hand washing, gentle machine washing and normal machine washing. The experimental results demonstrated that press washing had the best performance in terms of appearance indicators and elastic recovery, especially in the case of repeated laundering, due to the minimum fiber damage and surface degradation during washing. The laundered samples were also subjected to sensory evaluation by taking into account the personal feelings of consumers, which further verified the instrumental test results to a certain extent. The results obtained in this study can provide scientific care guidance and optimization ideas for subsequent research and applications.

Effect of Water pH on Domestic Machine Washing Performance of Delicate Textiles

Abstract In order to investigate the effect of washing water pH on textile damage for delicate garments, the study was conducted such that a customer survey was first applied to randomly selected users to analyze domestic washing machine using habits of Turkish consumers. Based on the findings of the survey, the experimental study was designed in two successive phases to investigate the dimensional and mechanical behavior of certain types of delicate textiles against varying washing conditions by taking in particular, water properties, namely pH, hardness, and temperature into account, and accordingly to determine the optimized washing conditions for such textiles. Firstly, tergotometer was employed as a washing machine simulator. Within the light of the results obtained, the experimental work of the second phase of the study was conducted, which involved a domestic washing machine as a real-life scenario. All of the results, including the correlation between the data sets obtained from the tergotometer and domestic washing machine trials, were statistically analyzed using Minitab 17. The study produced some important findings regarding the effect of washing water pH on delicate textiles, in addition to an algorithm for improving the present washing program, minimizing textile damage for mainly wool and silk garments.

The views of children and young people on the use of silk garments for the treatment of eczema: a nested qualitative study within the CLOTHing for the relief of Eczema Symptoms (CLOTHES) randomized controlled trial.

SummaryBackgroundMany children suffer with skin diseases but to date most dermatological research has been done ‘on’ rather than ‘with’ children; in this study we actively sought the experiences of children and young people. Atopic eczema (AE) is a chronic, itchy, inflammatory skin condition that affects around 20% of children and can impact on the health and wellbeing of children and their families. The role of specialist clothing in the management of AE is poorly understood.ObjectivesThe aim of this study, which was nested in a randomized controlled trial, was to qualitatively examine child participants’ experiences of using silk garments for the treatment of AE.MethodsEighteen children aged 5–15 years, who took part in the CLOTHing for the relief of Eczema Symptoms (CLOTHES) trial, participated in age‐appropriate individual interviews or focus groups.ResultsThematic analysis generated four themes directly related to the silk garments: (i) expectations of the garments; (ii) wearing the garments; (iii) asking if the garments helped; and (iv) thoughts about the garments. The conclusions from this nested qualitative study are that there was some limited improvement in eczema for some children but that the hoped‐for ‘miracle cure’ did not transpire. A mixed picture of knowledge, beliefs and experiences of using the silk garments emerged.ConclusionsEngaging children in the evaluation of the garments provided first‐hand nuanced insights that enhanced understanding of the CLOTHES study as a whole. This nested study demonstrates that children can and indeed want to be engaged in dermatological research in meaningful ways that add to our understanding of treatment options.

The views of children and young people on the use of silk garments for the treatment of eczema: a nested qualitative study within the CLOTHing for the relief of Eczema Symptoms (CLOTHES) randomized controlled trial

This study reports on a trial from the U.K. to find out if specialised silk clothing improved eczema in children. Eczema is a common skin condition. It affects around one in five children and can cause sore and itchy skin, poor sleep and reduced quality of life. As part of this work the researchers wanted to find out what the children who wore the garments in the study thought of them. They invited 18 children aged between five and 15 years to take part, meeting in small groups and using stories and play to help the children tell the researchers about the garments. All the children and young people had high hopes that the garments would make their skin much better. They expected the garments to feel soft and smooth and were disappointed when they were not like this. They reported that they mostly wore them at night as it was embarrassing to wear them during the day. Some said that the garments were see through. Garments tended to go grey and start to fall apart when they had been worn and washed. A few children found that the garments made their skin more comfortable and helped them sleep better. They were disappointed that the miracle cure they hoped for did not happen. It is important and possible to involve children in studies like this so we can understand what they think about possible treatments for eczema.

Silk industry and carbon footprint mitigation

Currently there is a concern with issues related to sustainability and more conscious consumption habits. The carbon footprint measures the total amount of greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions produced directly and indirectly by human activities and is usually expressed in tonnes of carbon dioxide (CO2) equivalents. The present study takes into account data collected in scientific literature regarding the carbon footprint, garments produced with silk fiber and the role of mulberry as a CO2 mitigation tool. There is an indication of a positive correlation between silk garments and carbon footprint mitigation when computed the cultivation of mulberry trees in this calculation. A field of them mitigates CO2 equivalents in a proportion of 735 times the weight of the produced silk fiber by the mulberry cultivated area. At the same time, additional researches are needed in order to identify and evaluate methods to advertise this positive correlation in order to contribute to a more sustainable fashion industry.

Silk garments plus standard care compared with standard care for treating eczema in children: A randomised, controlled, observer-blind, pragmatic trial (CLOTHES Trial).

BackgroundThe role of clothing in the management of eczema (also called atopic dermatitis or atopic eczema) is poorly understood. This trial evaluated the effectiveness and cost-effectiveness of silk garments (in addition to standard care) for the management of eczema in children with moderate to severe disease.Methods and findingsThis was a parallel-group, randomised, controlled, observer-blind trial. Children aged 1 to 15 y with moderate to severe eczema were recruited from secondary care and the community at five UK medical centres. Participants were allocated using online randomisation (1:1) to standard care or to standard care plus silk garments, stratified by age and recruiting centre. Silk garments were worn for 6 mo. Primary outcome (eczema severity) was assessed at baseline, 2, 4, and 6 mo, by nurses blinded to treatment allocation, using the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI), which was log-transformed for analysis (intention-to-treat analysis). A safety outcome was number of skin infections.Three hundred children were randomised (26 November 2013 to 5 May 2015): 42% girls, 79% white, mean age 5 y. Primary analysis included 282/300 (94%) children (n = 141 in each group). The garments were worn more often at night than in the day (median of 81% of nights [25th to 75th centile 57% to 96%] and 34% of days [25th to 75th centile 10% to 76%]). Geometric mean EASI scores at baseline, 2, 4, and 6 mo were, respectively, 9.2, 6.4, 5.8, and 5.4 for silk clothing and 8.4, 6.6, 6.0, and 5.4 for standard care. There was no evidence of any difference between the groups in EASI score averaged over all follow-up visits adjusted for baseline EASI score, age, and centre: adjusted ratio of geometric means 0.95, 95% CI 0.85 to 1.07, (p = 0.43). This confidence interval is equivalent to a difference of −1.5 to 0.5 in the original EASI units, which is not clinically important. Skin infections occurred in 36/142 (25%) and 39/141 (28%) of children in the silk clothing and standard care groups, respectively. Even if the small observed treatment effect was genuine, the incremental cost per quality-adjusted life year was £56,811 in the base case analysis from a National Health Service perspective, suggesting that silk garments are unlikely to be cost-effective using currently accepted thresholds. The main limitation of the study is that use of an objective primary outcome, whilst minimising detection bias, may have underestimated treatment effects.ConclusionsSilk clothing is unlikely to provide additional benefit over standard care in children with moderate to severe eczema.Trial registrationCurrent Controlled Trials ISRCTN77261365

Randomised controlled trial of silk therapeutic garments for the management of atopic eczema in children: the CLOTHES trial.

Atopic eczema (AE) is a chronic, itchy, inflammatory skin condition that affects the quality of life of children and their families. The role of specialist clothing in the management of AE is poorly understood. To assess the effectiveness and cost-effectiveness of silk garments for the management of AE in children with moderate to severe disease. Parallel-group, observer-blind, randomised controlled trial of 6 months' duration, followed by a 2-month observational period. A nested qualitative study evaluated the beliefs of trial participants, health-care professionals and health-care commissioners about the use of silk garments for AE. Secondary care and the community in five UK centres. Children aged 1-15 years with moderate or severe AE. Participants were randomised (1 : 1 using online randomisation) to standard care or standard care plus 100% silk garments made from antimicrobially protected knitted sericin-free silk [DermaSilkTM (AlPreTec Srl, San Donà di Piave, Italy) or DreamSkinTM (DreamSkin Health Ltd, Hatfield, UK)]. Three sets of garments were supplied per participant, to be worn for up to 6 months (day and night). At 6 months the standard care group received the garments to use for the remaining 2-month observational period. Primary outcome - AE severity using the Eczema Area and Severity Index (EASI) assessed at 2, 4 and 6 months, by nurses blinded to treatment allocation. EASI scores were log-transformed for analysis. Secondary outcomes - patient-reported eczema symptoms (Patient Oriented Eczema Measure); global assessment of severity (Investigator Global Assessment); quality of life of the child (Atopic Dermatitis Quality of Life, Child Health Utility - 9 Dimensions), family (Dermatitis Family Impact Questionnaire) and main carer (EuroQoL-5 Dimensions-3 Levels); use of standard eczema treatments (e.g. emollients, topical corticosteroids); and cost-effectiveness. The acceptability and durability of the clothing, and adherence to wearing the garments, were assessed by parental/carer self-report. Safety outcomes - number of skin infections and hospitalisations for AE. A total of 300 children were randomised (26 November 2013 to 5 May 2015): 42% female, 79% white, mean age 5 years. The primary analysis included 282 out of 300 (94%) children (n = 141 in each group). Garments were worn for at least 50% of the time by 82% of participants. Geometric mean EASI scores at baseline, 2, 4 and 6 months were 8.4, 6.6, 6.0, 5.4 for standard care and 9.2, 6.4, 5.8, 5.4 for silk clothing, respectively. There was no evidence of difference between the groups in EASI score averaged over all follow-up visits adjusted for baseline EASI score, age and centre (ratio of geometric means 0.95, 95% confidence interval 0.85 to 1.07; p = 0.43). This confidence interval is equivalent to a difference of -1.5 to 0.5 in the original EASI scale units. Skin infections occurred in 39 out of 141 (28%) and 36 out of 142 (25%) participants for standard care and silk clothing groups, respectively. The incremental cost per QALY of silk garments for children with moderate to severe eczema was £56,811 from a NHS perspective in the base case. Sensitivity analyses supported the finding that silk garments do not appear to be cost-effective within currently accepted thresholds. Knowledge of treatment allocation may have affected behaviour and outcome reporting for some of the patient-reported outcomes. The addition of silk garments to standard AE care is unlikely to improve AE severity, or to be cost-effective compared with standard care alone, for children with moderate or severe AE. This trial adds to the evidence base to guide clinical decision-making. Non-pharmacological interventions for the management of AE remain a research priority among patients. Current Controlled Trials ISRCTN77261365. This project was funded by the National Institute for Health Research (NIHR) Health Technology Assessment programme and will be published in full in Health Technology Assessment; Vol. 21, No. 16. See the NIHR Journals Library website for further project information.

The Singim Cemetery in Turfan City

AbstractIn 2007 through 2008, Academia Turfanica of Xinjiang excavated 30 burials at the Singim Cemetery. These burials can be classified into three types: rectangular shaft pit burials with ledges, rectangular shaft pit burials without ledges, and rectangular shaft burials with side rooms. Their grave goods consist of wooden wares, pottery wares, metal artifacts, leather and wool goods, silk garments; well-preserved mummified corpses and wheat seeds are also unearthed. The burial types, unearthed grave goods, and 14C data indicate that these burials date to between 2050 and 2200 BP, which overlapped with the Western Han Dynasty.

Oxidation of dithionite treatment solutions and the effects of pH on fading textile dyes

Treatment of complex textiles with heavy loadings of corroded embroidered gold and silver threads has been problematic until recent developments with the use of neutral pH, weak solutions of sodium dithionite. From an understanding of the way in which the oxidation steps of dithionite vary with pH it is possible to determine the nature of the reactive species in solution. The data on the kinetics and characteristic oxidation potentials of dithionite in solutions with 4.0>pH<13.6 confirmed that the solutions at neutral pH were still a powerful reducing agent, which is suitable for non-cellulosic textiles such as silk. The reducing power was sufficient to get electrochemical reduction of copper and silver corrosion products on the surface of the textile without causing damage to the underlying fabric. Visual examination and simple mechanical strength testing (the capacity to withstand pulling stresses) showed that there was no measurable difference between the treated and untreated silk in the tested strips from an 18th century textile. Unless sufficient buffer capacity is present in solution the release of protons from aerial oxidation of the dithionite will cause the solution to become more acidic over time. Under this experimental environment the treatment provides an accelerated ageing method. The full impact of the pH on the treatment method for silk and metal garments was gauged through a series of exposures of strips of contemporary pink textile for different lengths of time, over which the pH became more acidic. The strong correlation of pH with the degree of fading in the test strips of 18th century silk indicates that the fading reaction is caused by oxidative acidic decomposition of the dye.

The Application of Digital Printing Technology in Modern Silk Garments

Mainly from the perspectives of technology, design and application, this paper studied how to take use of digital printing technology to make silk garments feature more modern aesthetic value, and expand the application space of silk fabrics in modern clothing. Through the investigation of the whole production process currently, this paper gave a summary of the status quo and existing problems of digital positioning printing on cutting pieces, and put forward an optimization of the overall design and production process. A simulating practical production process in CAD software is applied to verify the optimized process. It is considered that the rise of digital printing technology pulls the direction of fashion design toward the Eastern from the Western system, the former one focusing on decorative patterns and the later on perspective and structure. The aim of this paper is to promote new thinking and develop silk fabrics and silk clothing, which have more modern aesthetic value, through the investigation of the application of digital printing technology in modern silk clothing, so as to make silk the symbol of Chinese civilization recover its vitality.

The influence of trade contacts on grave equipment of Gniew community in the 14th-18th century

Richness and variety of grave equipment (silk textiles, scapulars, crosses, rosaries and the other objects), revealed during archaeological exploration carried out in St. Nicolas church in Gniew and in the area of the former graveyard, confirmed trade contacts of local community with Western Europe and Asia. Grave finds (wreaths, various flowers) as well as silk garments give evidence that the town and the area dwellers belonged to wealthy social classes. Close relations with many trade centers and luxurious items imported from them had an apparent influence on preserving rich and ceremonial burial rites against obligatory sumptuary law forbidding splendor. Moreover, these multi-direction trade and social contacts had also an impact on spreading out pathogenic microorganisms and transmissive diseases, syphilis, among the others.

Research on Stitch Slipping and Influencing Factors of Silk Garments

Due to the delicacy of the material, stitch slipping occurs easier in silk garments than in the garments of other materials. Stitch slipping often occurs in the positions which are often subjected to stress, such as shoulder seam, side seam, and sleeve seam of the silk garment. The reasons of the stitch slipping in silk garments both from silk material itself and the manufacturing process of silk garments were analyzed. Sewing needle, stitch density and seam allowance were main manufacturing factors that affecting the stitch slipping in silk garments. By making experiments with silk garments of satin fabric, the influencing level of these three manufacturing factors were analyzed, at the same time the valuable reference data was also put forward.

Research on Implications of Silk Garments

Silk is Chinese cultural legacy, and whether in ancient times or now, a very important role was played on the clothing stage. Through the history, silk reeling technology, fabric texture, printing and dyeing patterns and clothing styles of silk clothing may have been improved, but many implications have not been changed. Implication is a person's heart for an object out of the product taste. Times changes, implication remains. In the modern era consumer psychology were focused on, consumers’ implications for silk clothing were dived, so resonance is greatly caused by consumers. First the traditional and modern implications of silk were analyzed, and the key words were got. These terms have been used to describe the different means of silk clothing. Second 5 sample silk garment was researched by the way of interpreting drawings. Semantic differential method was used to score. Last two kinds of properties of silk garments’ implications were obtained through factor analysis. The original implications can be included by these two properties, and the representation has been clearly shown. In the future silk clothing design methods and research directions, these two properties can be used as the basis, the consumer market segments positioning and style design has been carried out. Reference was supplied for silk clothing design methods and research.

Research on Silk Apparel Retail Marketing Development Strategy

As large marketing research data shown, silk clothing marketing share of china has been small. So far, there is still lack of a high-profile silk clothing brand in our country, which has great potential for developing. In this paper, silk apparel retail marketing development strategy were profoundly analyzed and studied. Firstly, silk garments’ marketing research data was analyzed. In order to expand silk clothing marketing comprehensively in the perspective of marketing channels and brand-building, the retail marketing strategy and mathematical statistics methods were used. At last it simulated the retail marketing development strategy in a small silk garments marketing sample in order to have a more intuitive view for the implementation of the strategy. Thereby, it can contribute to grasp silk apparel marketing, make full use of china’s rich silk resources and create silk brand power to make china silk flare brilliant in the world.

Analysis on Quality Management of Silk Clothing Production

In order to improve the quality of silk garments, on the basis of the result of previous studies, and through the practice in the silk companies, the root of the problems was analyzed by SPSS. In view of the unique nature of silk fabrics, the improvement measures of quality management were raised, which is of significant practical value and social value.

Unexpected Luxury: Wild Silk Textile Production among the Yoruba of Nigeria

Mulberry silk produced in China is the type most recognized and used in silk garments. There are at least seven additional silk fiber sources. The Yoruba are a large ethnic group in Nigeria who use native silk that they call sányán from the Anaphe moth as one of their most prized fiber resources. Throughout colonial and post-colonial history, both Nigerians and others investigated methods for domesticating wild silk production. Yoruba strip cloth, called aso-òkè includes three main categories: sányán, etù and alãrì, each appropriate for persons of high social standing and for important occasions, displaying cultural significance. Cotton becomes used as a substitute for expensive silk yarns, being dyed the traditional color of the silk fabrics. To the Yoruba aesthetic, the purpose of something is more important than its actual form. Even as weavers now produce the traditionally sányán cloths with substitute fibers, the cloth's glory remains.

A Randomized Double-Blind Study to Investigate the Clinical Efficacy of Adding a Non-Migrating Antimicrobial to a Special Silk Fabric in the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

Background: A randomized, double-blind study designed to compare the efficacy of DermaSilk® versus a sleeve of similar structure but minus the AEM 5772/5 antimicrobial finish in the treatment of atopic dermatitis (AD). Objective: To evaluate the clinical effect of adding an antimicrobial finish to knitted silk garments on eczema severity and on pruritus in patients with AD. Methods: Thirty patients aged between 3 and 31 years (mean 14.2 ± 7.7) were enrolled. The inclusion criterion was that the patients presented with active AD with eczematous lesions located on the arms without any sign of infection. Each participant was given a set of 4 pairs of knitted silk tubular sleeves marked with seams of different colours. Only one colour was treated with AEGIS AEM 5772/5. This information was unknown to both the clinicians and the patients/parents. At baseline (T0) and after 7 (T7), 14 (T14), 21 (T21) and 28 (T28) days, the patients were evaluated using the following methods: photographic assessment, local modified SCORAD index adapted for only the arm, and parent/patient assessment of pruritus measured with a visual analogue scale. Results: The mean local SCORAD index of both the DermaSilk- and the unmodified-silk-covered arms decreased significantly between baseline (T0) and the end of study (T28). However, while the Derma-Silk group showed a constant decrease each week, the unmodified-silk group showed a significant decrease only in the first 2 weeks of the study. Also the decrease in pruritus values between T0 and T28 was greater for the DermaSilk group. Conclusions: This study demonstrates the importance of including the AEM 5772/5 finish to the specially knitted silk for a long-term improvement of atopic eczema symptoms.

Das Collegium Sinicum zu Neapel und seine Umwandlung in ein Orientalisches Institut: Ein Beitrag zu seiner Geschichte (review)

Reviewed by: Das Collegium Sinicum zu Neapel und seine Umwandlung in ein Orientalisches Institut: Ein Beitrag zu seiner Geschichte Lydia Gerber (bio) Karl Joseph Rivinius . Das Collegium Sinicum zu Neapel und seine Umwandlung in ein Orientalisches Institut: Ein Beitrag zu seiner Geschichte. Collectanea Serica. Nettetal: Steyler Verlag, 2004. 174 pp. Paperback €30.00, ISBN 3-8050-0498-2. Karl Joseph Rivinius has published several books related to the history of the Catholic Church in Europe and beyond; four of these discuss the experience of the German-based Society of the Divine Word (SVD) in Shandong before the First World War. The publication under review introduces us to an earlier period of Sino-Western contact. Rivinius describes the development of a remarkable institution founded in Naples, Italy, by Matteo Ripa (1682-1746), a Catholic missionary and former resident at the Qing court in Beijing: the Collegium Sinicum, a college intended to educate Chinese seminarians as priests and future missionaries to their native land. Founded in 1732 and responsible for the education of over 106 Chinese students as well as many students from other countries, the college eventually fell victim to the strong anti-church sentiment prevalent within the newly unified Italy. In 1888 it became a branch of the secular university at Naples. As Rivinius observes, the current Istituto Orientale is the oldest European institution devoted to the teaching of Asian languages and cultures. The first chapter of the book provides a concise and yet thorough account of the history of Christian Missions in China from the beginnings to the early eighteenth century, including a brief discussion of the rites controversy that led to the edict outlawing Christian missions in China in 1720. The second chapter concerns the founding of the Naples College by Ripa and its history until 1868. Rivinius provides us with a list of Ripa's motives in founding the college, suggesting both economic reasons—Chinese were expected to live and travel more cheaply than European missionaries—and reasons of safety—due to their appearance Europeans in China were unable to go underground in times of persecution. Rivinius also suggests that Ripa had been severely disappointed with his own experience as a missionary to China. Rather than doing evangelical work, Ripa had been forced to serve as a landscape artist at the Qing court. Besides, he refused to submit to the Jesuit dress code of wearing the silk garments typical of Chinese literati. It appears that the headstrong Ripa developed his plan for the Naples College independent of his superiors. Failing to gain the approval of the Propaganda, the council responsible for overseas missions, Ripa managed to win the support of both Pope Benedict XIII (1724-1730) and the Austrian emperor Charles VI (1685-1740), the ruler over Naples, in personal audience. It took ten years for Ripa to finally obtain the framework he desired for his school, including a certain [End Page 219] freedom from undue interference from either church or state authorities. The rest of the chapter describes the impact of European politics on the status of Naples, leading up to the unification of Italy, as well as important papal decrees extending the student body and the financial support for the college. Following chapter 2, Rivinius provides an interesting excursus (pp. 53-62), for the first time giving evidence of the practical uses of the college. It became the source of translators for the British mission to China in 1793-1794 under the leadership of Lord Macartney (1737-1806). Four of its graduates accompanied the British emissary to China, with Jacob Li (1760-1828) serving as interpreter throughout their tour. While the mission certainly did not prove successful in establishing bilateral relations in the way Britain had hoped, Jacob Li received high praise for his services. Chapters 3 and 4 are devoted to the government-enforced conversion of the private Catholic college into, eventually, a branch of the local university, and reactions by church officials and representatives of the Bavarian empire to this unwarranted takeover. Compared to numerous other assaults on church property by the contemporary Italian State, the demise of Ripa's institute was not considered sufficiently important to merit continued protest by either the...