PurposeThis paper summarizes the design thinking of pleated clothing, uses virtual software to simulate the pleated clothing process and clothing effect and applies the fractal geometry principle to conduct relevant experiments, which verifies the possibility of simulation software assisting pleated clothing design, improves research and development efficiency, lays a foundation for future process parameter collection to upgrade the pleated clothing database and realizes the diversity of digital innovative design of pleated clothing.Design/methodology/approachAccording to the principle of self-similarity and fractal dimension in fractal geometry, the design thinking of pleated clothing is put forward and the simulation folding of 3D digital technology is expanded. The design method takes traditional craft and digital technology as an example. The two-dimensional design thinking of pleated clothing is geometric crease thinking of fabric swatch and geometric expansion of basic clothing pattern. Three-dimensional modeling design thinking, such as based on the human body shape, geometric shape and folding mode. As well as digital design thinking, such as the angle of the fabric element and the perspective of garment pattern change.FindingsThis paper analyzes the Y structure of the similar shape “binary tree” in origami art, the principle of infinite folding with 45? As the unit and the point set capacity theory of Cantor concentric circles in the fractal dimension principle expands the design thinking of pleated clothing, applies a large number of experimental cases of design thinking inspired by the fractal geometry of pleated clothing and validates the possibility of simulation software assisting pleated clothing design.Research limitations/implicationsWe argue here that digital technology should continue to be used in a similar way for research and development in other clothing design-related processes in the future. When it comes to the possibilities for digital innovation in relation to pleated clothing, there is a lack of data for modeling the characteristics of such clothing and establishing the processing requirements. Thus, there is scope here for innovation breakthroughs in terms of both the art and the technology associated with clothing design, not to mention how the two are integrated. This paper has laid some potential foundations for this through its elaboration of fractal-inspired design in the context of pleated garments.Practical implicationsNumerous experiments were undertaken and digital simulation software was used to explore various potential designs in the paper. This confirmed the possibility of using simulation software to assist in the design of pleated clothing, which offers the scope for improved research and more efficient development. However, if the processing parameters for changes in the pleated fabric are not set in the software, it is impossible to automatically generate auxiliary clothes. The collection of processing parameters and the creation of a more comprehensive pleated clothing database should therefore be the focus of future research.Social implicationsThe paper is oriented toward future clothing design. There is some impact on research, practice and/or society. This opens up the possibility of using fractal geometry in the design of the folds and dimensional energy in pleated clothing. On the whole, the innovation point is clear and the idea is novel. By seeking the principles of science and technology, sensing the infinite possibilities, improving the design efficiency and inspiring innovative design thinking methods, in order to meet the diversity and personality needs of the external shape of the human body.Originality/valueThe concave and convex texture of pleated fabric is geometric and decorative. It has a direct reference value for pleated clothing design by using the concepts of partial and whole in fractal geometry and the quantity and energy conversion in fractal dimension space. Due to the influence of clothing intelligent manufacturing policy, there is a lack of data sorting for the modeling characteristics and process requirements of pleated clothing, and there is innovative design thinking that needs to be integrated with technology and art, which lays a foundation for the future collection of process parameters to upgrade the pleated clothing database.