Sewing Industry Research Articles

Patterns of co-evolution: analyzing fashion brand and sewing contractor company dynamics

The purpose of this study is to identify the entry conditions that could form a co-evolutionary relationship between a sewing contractor company and a fashion brand, and reveal the outcome of such a relationship. In the Republic of Korea, many fashion brands and sewing companies coexist, and the situation in the fashion industry changes with the rapid development of the country, so it is a suitable environment for investigating their co-evolution strategies. A qualitative research methodology was used to examine the co-evolution process of the fashion brand and the sewing industry. In addition, an objective evaluation was conducted by using interviews with sewing contractor companies and fashion brands that have business relationships with the sewing contractor companies. The results indicated that sewing contractor companies evolve into either mass production or small production systems. In the co-evolutionary process, relational resources and business-to-business transaction suitability are the main entry conditions for sewing contractor companies to coevolve with fashion brands. Knowledge exchange, experience optimization, off-season ordering, and investment in trading companies were observed among sewing contractor companies that formed a co-evolutionary relationship with their fashion brand partners. This study identified and conceptualized factors that played a major role in the process of co-evolution and proved suitable for each production system of sewing contractor companies.

АЛГОРИТМ ДІАГНОСТИКИ ПІДПРИЄМСТВА ДЛЯ ВИРІШЕННЯ ПИТАНЬ ДЕФІЦИТУ КАДРІВ

The article presents six groups of approaches to addressing the issue of staff shortages, gathered by the authors using own methodology. For practical implementation of these approaches in enterprises, a three-step algorithm has been developed and presented, which should precede the development of a customized strategy for hiring personnel or improving labour productivity. In the first stage, based on the assessment of labour productivity in Ukraine compared to other countries, it is proposed for the enterprises to conduct a self-diagnosis aimed at determining whether a sufficient level of labour productivity has been achieved. Thus, it becomes evident to choose one of three scenarios: quantitative, aimed at attracting additional personnel; qualitative, aimed at radically improving the productivity of existing personnel, processes, and equipment; or a combination of the first two scenarios. The second step proposes conducting a SWOT analysis of the tools selected in the previous step to confirm the feasibility of their further use via comparison of strong and weak sides, available opportunities and existing risks and threats. As an example SWOT analysis of establishing training centres in the sewing industry provided as well as analysis of implementing artificial intelligence tools. In the third step, it is suggested for the enterprises to perform stakeholders mapping to identify key ecosystem players and their roles, distribute the necessary connections and resources for the implementation of the chosen tools. The proposed map includes: the target business, competitors, the broader market, external infrastructure, and external influencers, that will allow enterprises to better understand cooperation mechanisms, optimize resource use, and ensure comprehensive support in the project of implementing tools to overcome the staff shortage issue. The proposed three-step algorithm is an effective foundation for further strategies development and tools selection to solve the problem of workforce shortages or increase productivity, which can significantly enhance the capabilities of Ukrainian enterprises to fulfil orders and develop in the challenging conditions of martial law.

국내 의류봉제 산업의 글로벌소싱 의향 고려요인 연구

Purpose - This study seeks to investigate the determinants of global sourcing intention in clothing sewing industry, in particular with its focus on women’s Knitwear production.
 Design/methodology/approach - This study collected a unique set of qualitative data through 31 in-depth interviews with fashion brands, promotion agencies, and sewing factories between July 2023 and October 2023. In addition, it analyzed the dataset using the MAXQDA to complement the research findings.
 Findings - We have two findings. First, the interviewees commonly mentioned the following factors as reasons for considering global sourcing: the human factors(aging of skilled technicians and labor shortages), the financial factors(gap in production unit prices at home and abroad), the relational factors(lack of novelty), and the physical factors(loss of production infrastructure and network), while the human factors(skilled workforce), the production factors(delivery date and product quality), and the relational factors(timely communication and mutual trust) as reasons for continuing domestic sourcing. Additional code analysis of interview also supports this finding. On the other hand, there was also a subtle difference between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and processing plants), and buyers consider the exact delivery date critical so that they could see trend-sensitive women’s Knitwear on time, and suppliers took production costs, labor costs, and labor shortages, which are financial factors, more seriously.
 Research implications or Originality - This study provides a richer and more balanced view of existing literature, which has generally tended to introduce global sourcing across the clothing industry despite the existence of various diversity within the industry. In addition, through qualitative research, we introduce that the sewing industry is carried out according to complex factors, and by revealing and categorizing the determinants of global sourcing, we supplement the existing research on the clothing sewing industry centered on survey. On a practical note, this study introduces that there is a difference in view of domestic sourcing and global sourcing between buyers(brands) and suppliers(promotion agencies and sewing factories), suggesting practical implications for revitalizing networks and deriving win-win cooperation network models among members in the future.

중소상공인 패션제조 활성화를 위한 디지털교육 기반의 솔루션 앵커 실증 및 분석

This study aims to create a safe working environment and improve productivity in order to systematically support the improvement of working hazards and production and manufacturing working environments in small and underdeveloped clothing manufacturing sites. To this end, a digital transformation education program will be established in response to the fourth industrial era through the Seoul Fashion Manufacturing Production Support Center, which is based on Geumcheon, Seoul, where the fashion sewing industry, IT high-tech, and sales distribution coexist. Based on this, it aims to demonstrate through manufacturing safety education, sustainable ESG education, and program execution to create jobs, and to serve as an optimal fashion manufacturing support center through analysis and satisfaction research.
 Starting with two Geumcheon·Changsin Fashion Support Centers in 2020, a total of seven are in operation, including Dobong socks, Gangdong leather, Gaebong machines, Gangbuk fashion, and Seongbuk fashion. In 2022, the number of sewing companies in Seoul is 405 in weight districts, 257 in Seongbuk-gu, 187 in Gangbuk-gu, and 244l in Geumcheon-gu, and the number of sewing companies is 1,434 in Jungnang-gu, 663 in Seongbuk-gu, 558 in Gangbuk-gu, and 1,770 in Geumcheon-gu, with Geumcheon-gu having the largest corporate size and the highest employment effect. As for the production form of the sewing industry, shirts/sports clothing are dominated in the Jungnang area, small-scale multi-species production in the Dongdaemun area, and women's suits and shirts/sports in the Guro and Geumcheon areas. Through this, performance is analyzed through demonstration conducted from 2020 to 2022, and the results are reflected in the next year's mind map operation through a program satisfaction survey.
 Since the opening of the Seoul Fashion Manufacturing Support Center in October 2020, 76% of young entrepreneurs in Geumcheon-gu, Gwanak-gu and Mapo-gu have used small businesses in nearby areas, and 86.3%. Individual companies and corporations were classified for research and analysis, and the retention period of companies was divided into 5 years or less, 5-10 years, 10-20 years, and 20 years or more. Accordingly, the number of workers was classified and satisfaction according to the presence or absence of a tailor was investigated. At this time, we investigated the reasons for facility use, frequency of use, satisfaction with facility use, and satisfaction with facility use, and asked about plans for reuse rates to establish advanced education systems such as live commerce, YouTube, shopping live, and start-up space solution libraries that can utilize and activate spaces suitable for the digital transformation era.
 In order to revitalize the fashion manufacturing industry, which has been shrinking due to rising domestic labor costs and the relocation of related industries abroad, and to overcome difficulties, we want to secure competitiveness and foster infrastructure through system construction and education programs that respond to the digital transformation era.

ANALYSIS OF MODERN SPREADING EQUIPMENT APPLIED IN THE SEWING INDUSTRY

The productivity and efficiency of cutting and sewing production is impossible without the use of the latest and most reliable equipment. Ensuring their smooth operation requires the use of high-quality main and supporting equipment. Due to factors such as complex typesetting of skilled workers, high labor costs and the complexity of clothing production, layout and cutting play a critical role. It is the foundation and key that cannot be ignored in the sewing industry. The spreading and cutting department has special importance in garment manufacturing, it is not possible to make a garment in large quantities without a cutting room. The article considers the list of basic and additional spreading equipment for the cutting room. The most common manufacturer brands and companies supplying this equipment on the Ukrainian market are analyzed. The specified descriptive characteristics of the features of the spreading equipment are given and their latest technological solutions are indicated. The comparative characteristics of the technical parameters of the equipment of various models and manufacturers are given. The cost characteristics of equipment of different price groups (low, medium and high) are presented. The most cost-effective types of equipment are recommended for enterprises of different capacities and types of activity. The expediency of ensuring the consistency of spreading and cutting equipment of the same manufacturer brand at the same enterprise is indicated. The conducted analysis indicates a wide market of modern spreading equipment for cutting department of sewing enterprises, which allows you to freely choose the desired option. The primary factor in this case is the manufacturer’s brand and equipment model, and its cost is an equally important factor. They must provide the desired capacity of the enterprise and should be profitable.

RESEARCH OF VARIABLE PARAMETERS OF NEEDLE THREAD TAKE-UP MECHANISMS AND DEVELOPMENT OF RECOMMENDATIONS FOR ADJUSTING MULTI-THREAD CHAIN STITCH SEWING MACHINES

The purpose of this research is to develop specific recommendations for optimizing the adjustment of the thread take-up mechanisms of typical chain stitch sewing machines based on the analysis of the thread take-up process. These recommendations are intended to help manufacturers and machine operators achieve maximum productivity and increased product quality, while taking into account the specific technological parameters of the operations performed on these machines. The research is aimed at increasing the efficiency of the sewing process, reducing machine setup time, and improving the overall result of the technological process in the sewing industry. The research uses an analytical method of determining and investigating functions of the actual thread take-up as the instantaneous sum of sections of the take-up contour when adjustable parameters of the mechanisms are changed, taking into account accepted assumptions. In the research, an analytical method was used to determine functions of the actual thread take-up as the instantaneous sum of sections of the take-up contour, taking into account the change in regulated parameters of the mechanisms. At the same time, assumptions were made that has simplified analysis and modelling of this process with sufficient accuracy of calculation results. The scientific novelty of this research lies in discovery of new relationships and establishment of regularities that determine influence of adjustable parameters on the nature and scope of the thread take-up function in chain stitch machines. Further re-search in this area can be aimed to the development of more efficient methods of adjustment and optimization of needle thread take-up mechanisms, as well as to the implementation of new technologies in pro-duction to improve productivity and quality of sewing operations. The obtained results became basis for the development of nomograms for determining the optimal values of adjustable parameters for needle thread take-up mechanisms of typical flat chain stitch machines, taking into account technological parameters of specific operations. These nomograms allow operators and manufacturers of sewing machines significantly simplify adjustment of these mechanisms when using operational equipment or when switching to other technological operations. The obtained results can be applied directly in production during adjustment or repairing of specified ma-chines to increase their productivity by reducing adjustment time and for improving the quality of the technological process.

Application Software Package as a Means of Professional Training of Sewing Industry Specialists in the Conditions of the University

The article is devoted to the application software package usage as a means of professional training of sewing industry specialists in the conditions of the university. It is established that the information competence formation of future sewing industry engineers should be carried out taking into account the peculiarities of the Information and Communication Technologies (ICT) usage at modern enterprises. The content peculiar features of information training of future sewing industry specialists have been studied based on of the analysis of educational curricula developed at Mukachevo State University. Foreign experience in the ICT usage in higher education has also been considered on the example of the Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic. The following scientific methods as systematization, analysis, generalization of theoretical sources and statistical data, structuring of pedagogical information on designing the content of educational curricula as well as the comparative analysis of foreign experience in the ICT usage in higher education have been applied to conduct the research. The authors suggest that the development of own information products by the higher educational establishment, which are used within professionally-oriented disciplines are among the ways to increase the ICT competencies of future specialists in the garment industry. Thorough study of the peculiarities of the application software packages usage during the training and production and engineering practices in the conditions of garment production also improve the level of information competence of students.

Problems of management of working convicts in the sewing industry in places of deprivation of liberty

Problems of management of working convicts in the sewing industry in places of deprivation of liberty

Making masks: The women behind Ghana's nose covering mandate during the COVID-19 outbreak

In 2020, Ghanaians adopted face masks, or “nose masks,” in public places to combat the spread of a novel coronavirus, SARS-CoV-2. Seamstresses and tailors quickly pivoted to manufacture nose masks by April, given the longstanding cottage sewing industry. While the country saw an influx of disposable face masks by the end of the year, cloth mask makers made a significant impact on public health at the start of the pandemic. This article considers how people were able to quickly popularize nose masks in 2020, noting the key role women seamstresses played alongside public leaders, the Ghana Standards Authority, and the police who used punitive punishments and coercive tactics to encourage sustained use as the pandemic continued. It marks one of the first studies on the history and cultural use of nose masks in an African country, comparing their use and adoption to other national mask responses, including those in the United States, Japan, and the Czech Republic.

Finding opportunity in COVID-19: A narrative study of women artisan microentrepreneurs

ABSTRACT As the COVID-19 pandemic and its impact on the United States and global economies unfolded, the sewing industry was one of many that faced widespread uncertainty. A narrative research study examined how artisan microentrepreneurs in the sewing space experienced entrepreneurial opportunity alertness as they navigated the early months of the pandemic. Findings indicate that participation in multistage artisan entrepreneur communities provided the greatest benefits for members with no perceptible disadvantages. Entrepreneurs with diverse coping strategies were more resilient to challenges. The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated consumer adoption of digital technology in the United States, which facilitated growth for microbusinesses that have digital fluency or are ready to adopt new technologies. Policy recommendations are to restore net neutrality and implement federal funding for nonemployer firms impacted by disaster so artisan microbusinesses can thrive in the digital space.

An investigation of the thermo-mechanical fusing process of innovative textile materials

The process of thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF) is one of the major technological processes in the sewing industry. The quality of the sewing article as a whole depends largely on the effective implementation of this process. The good appearance of the finished product and the preservation of the shapes given during the operation of the product depend on the proper choice of the parameters for the TMF. It is therefore important to carry out research to optimize this process. On the other hand, new and different textile materials (TM) with more complex structure and multicomponent composition have appeared in recent years. This determines the different properties of each TM. Therefore, it is extremely important to conduct numerous preliminary studies and analyses to determine the specific effective values for defining the TMF process for a particular type of TM. This is especially important namely for large-scale companies. In the context of the above, it is of particular interest to study the TMF process for an innovative TM (with complex structure and multicomponent composition) registered with a patent for an invention in recent years. The purpose of the present work is to investigate and analyse the nature of the change in temperature between basic and adhesive TM in TMF of innovative /complex in composition and structure/TM. As a result of the performed research and analysis, a method for establishing continuous feedback with the processed textile materials at TMF has been proposed. The nature of the temperature change of the treated innovative TM has been defined. The relationship between the time for conducting the TMF process and the temperature of the pressing plate for the respective innovative TM has been established.

ОСОБЛИВОСТІ РОЗРОБЛЕННЯ ЕЛЕКТРОННИХ ПОСІБНИКІВ З ПРОФЕСІЙ ШВЕЙНОГО ВИРОБНИЦТВА

Актуальність дослідження зумовлена: активним входженням дистанційного та змішаного навчання у сучасний освітній процес, обмеженнями, уведеними у багатьох державах світу у зв’язку із пандемічною ситуацією; низьким рівнем готовності педагогічної спільноти, здобувачів освіти до ефективної взаємодії в умовах змішаної або дистанційної моделі освіти; умовами освітнього середовища, що утворилося у результаті впровадження технологій змішаного і дистанційного навчання; необхідністю пошуку нових підходів до розробки ефективного дидактико-методичного інструментарію для формування фахових компетенцій здобувачів професійної освіти; створенням оптимальних педагогічних умов підготовки робітничих кадрів для швейного виробництва із урахуванням стрімких темпів упровадження новітніх виробничих технологій. Мета: обґрунтування актуальності розроблення електронних засобів навчання для професій швейної галузі та відбору і структурування змісту посібника «Технології виготовлення блузи» з урахуванням інноваційних виробничих технологій. Методи: теоретичні (аналіз, синтез та узагальнення науково-педагогічних праць із питань підручникотворення, розробки електронних посібників); емпіричні (вивчення та аналіз педагогічного досвіду, робочих планів, програм підготовки майбутніх кваліфікованих робітників швейного виробництва та результатів їхньої діяльності). Результати: розроблено й упроваджено в освітній процес підготовки робітничих кадрів з професій швейного виробництва електронне навчальне видання «Технології виготовлення блузи». Висновки: обґрунтовано актуальність розроблення електронних засобів навчання для професій швейної галузі; охарактеризовано зміст і структуру посібника «Технології виготовлення блузи»; показано доцільність його використання для підвищення мотивації й формування фахових компетенцій здобувачів професійної освіти, розвитку ІКТ-компетентностей викладачів професійної підготовки і майстрів виробничого навчання професій швейного виробництва; окреслено основні завдання цифровізації процесу підготовки кваліфікованих робітничих кадрів.

Development of boutique denim clothing by the "upcycling" method

In the present article have been developed denim models for women's figures with deviations from the conditionally nominal sizes, using the method of re-creative use - upcycling, in pursuit of motivation to reduce the textile waste from the sewing industry. A combination of three approaches is used: a concept for a boutique vision when creating the design of the models, as an attraction for each user; upcycling as an idea for reusing sewing products; moulage method in the development of the construction of clothing, based on a classic basic construction. To confirm the results, physical samples of the products were made. The research and creative activity is aimed towards realization of a design and construction-technological concept of denim clothing, which is the most common clothing used by absolutely all age groups, from babies to centenarians and is present in both the prêt à porter and haute couture. This makes the production of denim products, one of the most voluminous and polluting in the textile industry.

Investigation of the damp-heating processing of multilayer fabric

With the global industrial technology development, technological processes in the textile and clothing industry areconstantly evolving. These rapid rates of development necessitate the need for continuous research and analysis toestablish optimal operating modes for various technological processes. The damp-heating processing/DHP is one of themain technological processes in the sewing industry. The quality of the sewing article depends to a large extent on thequality of the performance of operations in the damp-heating processing. The wide variety of textile materials, each withdifferent composition, structure and properties, is a prerequisite for conducting extensive research to refine manageablefactors of the DHP process. In recent years, textile materials with an increasingly complex structure and multi-component composition have become increasingly important. Of particular interest are the so-called double wovenfabrics. Therefore, the subject of this study is the damp-heating processing of an innovative textile fabric tissue –amultilayer weave type “double cloth”. One of the main controllable factors of the damp-heating processing is the amountof moisture introduced into the processed textile materials. The aim of this paper is to determine the limit values for theamount of steam used in the damp-heating processing of a tissue –a multilayer weave type “double cloth”.

Investigation of the damp-heating processing of multilayer fabric

With the global industrial technology development, technological processes in the textile and clothing industry areconstantly evolving. These rapid rates of development necessitate the need for continuous research and analysis toestablish optimal operating modes for various technological processes. The damp-heating processing/DHP is one of themain technological processes in the sewing industry. The quality of the sewing article depends to a large extent on thequality of the performance of operations in the damp-heating processing. The wide variety of textile materials, each withdifferent composition, structure and properties, is a prerequisite for conducting extensive research to refine manageablefactors of the DHP process. In recent years, textile materials with an increasingly complex structure and multi-component composition have become increasingly important. Of particular interest are the so-called double wovenfabrics. Therefore, the subject of this study is the damp-heating processing of an innovative textile fabric tissue –amultilayer weave type “double cloth”. One of the main controllable factors of the damp-heating processing is the amountof moisture introduced into the processed textile materials. The aim of this paper is to determine the limit values for theamount of steam used in the damp-heating processing of a tissue –a multilayer weave type “double cloth”.

전태일의 '태일피복' 구상과 1960~70년대 평화시장 봉제업계

본고는 전태일이 평화시장의 노동 조건을 개선하기 위해 택했던 수단으로서, 스스로 평화시장 안에 ‘모범’ 봉제업체-‘태일피복’을 설립하고자 했던 계획에 집중하였다. ‘태일피복’ 구상은 노동자를 존중하면서도, 충분히 사업이 성장해 나갈 수 있음을 세상에 알리기 위함이었다. ‘태일피복’은 근로기준법을 지키는 데서 더 나아가, 교육 기회 등을 제공하며 노동자를 후견하고자 했고, 이윤 몫의 균등 분배까지 내걸었다. 이를 실현하기 위해 전태일이 구상했던 각종 사업 방안은 관찰과 경험의 산물로서, 평화시장의 고질적 문제들을 쇄신할 수 방안을 담은 것이기도 했다. 물론 전태일은 끝내 사업체를 차릴 돈을 구하지 못했다. 그럼에도 불구하고 ‘근로기준법’ 이상의 지향을 가지기 어려웠던 시대적 조건에서, ‘태일피복’은 노ㆍ사간 최대한의 ‘정의로운 관계’를 담아내려 한 시도였다.

Influence of Fusing Conditions on the Change of Colour Shade in the Production of Clothing

One of the major technological processes in the sewing industry is the process of thermo-mechanical fusing (TMF). This is a process in which the main textile material connects to an additional textile material (interlining) through a polymer binder. This ensures better resistance to the shape of the individual parts of the sewing article. The main factors that influence the process are the temperature of the pressing plates, and the pressure and the duration of the process. The process has not been sufficiently studied and therefore it is important to identify a function that connects the output parameter to the input factors of the TMF process. It is especially important to choose an optimisation criterion. After numerous preliminary studies, some changes in textile materials (TM) after TMF have been observed. For example, the incorrect adjustment of process parameters (e.g. pressure, temperature and duration) changes the colour shade of TM after TMF. This change in the colour shade of the individual parts will impair the quality of the sewing product as a whole. This encourages the selection of the quality criterion. In light of the latter, the purpose of this paper was to derive a mathematical model of the TMF process that describes the influence of input factors on the quality criterion: changing the colour shade of TM after TMF.

Creative industries micro-enterprises and informality: a case study of the Shweshwe sewing industry in South Africa

ABSTRACT The Cultural and Creative Industries have great potential for providing employment and economic development, as has been demonstrated by a number of international studies. However, cultural firms tend to be small and employment is precarious, with a high level of informality and freelance work. This study investigates the characteristics of micro-enterprises who sew bespoke garments for individual customers using a particular South African textile, called Shweshwe. Findings show that the informality of the businesses does not have a statistically significant impact on turnover, when controlling for other factors, such as the education level of the owner. This suggests that the informal business model may be a deliberate, rational choice for firm owners working in a project-based cultural sector, rather than a survivalist strategy of last resort. Employment creation is, however, greater for those micro-enterprises operating in the formal sector, suggesting that there may still be benefits to formality for some firms.

Developing a creative method for reuse of clothing

The article proposes a creative method for reducing textile waste from the sewing industry. A street fashion collection of denim clothing has been created. A combination of three approaches was used: the concept of a capsule wardrobe when selecting the types and styles of clothing in the collection; upcycling as an idea for reusing sewing products; a moulage draping method in developing patterns of the garment. To confirm the results, physical samples of the products were sewed. The proposed approach develops the creative thinking of the designer and individual skills of the clothing pattern maker. The anti-consumer attitude of clothing customers to the planet’s resources is being nurtured. The effect is also enhanced by the focus on denim products, whose production is one of the largest in the textile industry. The approach opens up a market niche with the ability to set up a small business online.

SUSTAINABILITY IN THE BUSINESS ENVIRONMENT THROUGH INTERCULTURAL DIALOGUE

In the contexts of global economy and the increasing necessity for sustainable development of the business connections all over the world, the relations between the partners often involves not only the foreign language communication but also the dialogue between their cultures. International economic activity takes place in a set of business environments (business arrangements, timelines, quality output, sales, cash flows) which are also largely determined by additional cultural business conditions (culture as communication, attitude towards power, organizational hierarchy, interpersonal relations, etc.). In this sense, intercultural dialogue is a particularly important tool for achieving excellence and sustainable business relations between economic partners from different countries.
 In this paper, we suggest that intercultural dialogue in the international business environment is an indispensable tool for achieving economic effectiveness and goals, and can be assessed on the same scale as business performance. In order to identify the need of awareness-raising concerning the importance of intercultural dialogue as a business environment facilitator, a survey regarding the sewing industry in southwestern Bulgaria was conducted. The survey involved 16 small enterprises (participating with professionals from four different positions) working with firms from Greece. The evaluation of the business relations was actualized at two levels: the level of assessing the ability of professional communication and the level of assessing the ability of intercultural dialogue. Following the results obtained, the authors suggest a more active inclusion of intercultural dialogue in business practices and in negotiation. This recommendation fully corresponds to the Global goals of sustainable development because it contributes to the improvement of global partnership.