Scalp Sebum Research Articles

Nutrition, Obesity, and Seborrheic Dermatitis: Systematic Review.

Pathogenesis of seborrheic dermatitis involves lipid secretion by sebaceous glands, Malassezia colonization, and an inflammatory response with skin barrier disruption. Each of these pathways could be modulated by diet, obesity, and nutritional supplements. Current treatment options provide only temporary control of the condition; thus, it is essential to recognize modifiable lifestyle factors that may play a role in determining disease severity. This study aimed to summarize published evidence on diet, nutritional supplements, alcohol, obesity, and micronutrients in patients with seborrheic dermatitis and to provide useful insights into areas of further research. A literature search of Scopus, PubMed, and MEDLINE (Ovid interface) for English language papers published between 1993 and 2023 was conducted on April 16, 2023. Case-control studies, cohort studies, and randomized controlled trials with 5 or more subjects conducted on adult participants (>14 years) were included, case reports, case series, and review papers were excluded due to insufficient level of evidence. A total of 13 studies, 8 case-control, 3 cross-sectional, and 2 randomized controlled trials, involving 13,906 patients were included. Seborrheic dermatitis was correlated with significantly increased copper, manganese, iron, calcium, and magnesium concentrations and significantly lower serum zinc and vitamin D and E concentrations. Adherence to the Western diet was associated with a higher risk for seborrheic dermatitis in female patients and an increased consumption of fruit was associated with a lower risk of seborrheic dermatitis in all patients. The prebiotic Triphala improved patient satisfaction and decreased scalp sebum levels over 8 weeks. Most studies find associations between regular alcohol use and seborrheic dermatitis, but the association between BMI and obesity on seborrheic dermatitis severity and prevalence is mixed. This review sheds light on specific promising areas of research that require further study, including the need for interventional studies evaluating serum zinc, vitamin D, and vitamin E supplementation for seborrheic dermatitis. The negative consequences of a Western diet, alcohol use, obesity, and the benefits of fruit consumption are well known; however, to fully understand their specific relationships to seborrheic dermatitis, further cohort or interventional studies are needed. PROSPERO CRD42023417768; https://tinyurl.com/bdcta893.

Safety, Efficacy and Attributes of 2.5% Selenium Sulfide Shampoo in the Treatment of Dandruff: A Single-Center Study.

Selenium sulfide, available as a shampoo or topical lotion at 1%, or 2.5% concentrations in India, is used as a topical antiseborrheic and antifungal for the treatment of dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, psoriasis, and tinea versicolor. In the present study, the safety, efficacy, and attributes of 2.5% selenium sulfide shampoo were evaluated in Indian participants with dandruff. A single-center, single-arm, prospective, investigator-initiated, open-label, post-marketing interventional study was conducted on Indian subjects aged 18-70 years diagnosed with moderate dandruffwho were prescribed 2.5% selenium sulfide shampoo every three days for four weeks. The primary endpoints were 1) reduction in total dandruff score assessed using a clinical grading scale for adherent and loose dandruff from baselineto weeks 1, 2, and 4, and 2) incidence of adverse events up to the end of the study. The key secondary endpoints were 1) participants' perception of shampoo attributes (dandruff reduction, scalp itch, scalp oiliness/greasiness, or fragrance) as assessed by a subjective self-assessment questionnaire post-first wash and at weeks 1, 2, and/or 4; 2) satisfaction with treatment as assessed by investigators and participants using a subjective self-assessment questionnaire at week 4; and 3) reduction in scalp sebum as assessed with a meibometer at weeks 2 and 4.Statistical analysis was performed using the Wilcoxon signed-rank test for continuous variables and the Chi-square test for categorical variables. A p-value of 0.05 was considered to be statistically significant. Of 34 enrolled subjects, 30 completed the four-week study. The mean (standard deviation, SD) age of the study participants was 29.8 (7.87) years, with the majority being females (n=18; 60.0%). Mean (SD) total dandruff score significantly (p=0.001) reduced from a baseline score of 11.5 (2.15) to 7.17 (2.12) at week 1, 4.93 (1.72) at week 2, and 2.5 (1.17) at week 4. All the participants reported dandruff reduction and acceptable fragrance of the shampoo at four weeks. Absence of itching and reduction in oiliness was reported by 73.3% (n=22) of participants at week 4 and by 50.0% (n=15) of participants at week 2, respectively. All participants reported good, very good, or excellent satisfaction with the test shampoo at week 4, whereas the investigators rated the shampoo as very good or excellent in managing dandruff in all participants. At week 4, erythema was reported to be absent in all participants. No adverse events were reported during the study. The 2.5% selenium sulfide shampoo was found to be effective in the management of dandruff and related symptoms like itching, oiliness, and greasiness and had a good safety profile in Indian participants with dandruff.

Preparation and decolorization of sapindus mukurossi extract and its application in sebum-control shampoos

BackgroundSapindus mukurossi extract (SME) is a kind of natural surface active ingredient with potential applications in cleansing products. However, the polyphenols and pigments contained in the extract may cause color browning of the products during storage especially at elevated temperatures, affecting its high level addition in the products. ObjectiveTo explore a decolorization process suitable for industrialization realize the high level addition of SME and explore the potential of SME in the field of controlling sebum esters. Materials and MethodsSME was prepared by adsorbing polyphenols on the D301 resin and oxidation decoloring oxidation. Investigated its sebum-control efficacy by SZ95 model and clinical study. ResultsThe results demonstrate that the D301 resin displays the best adsorption selectivity for polyphenols in SME, and the polyphenol adsorption ratio of D301 resin (5 wt%) can reach 83.6%; The optimal decolorization conditions are pH= 7.8, temperature 73 ℃ and decolorization time 5.7 h when H2O2 content is 6%, The prepared SME shows no obvious changes in color and retain stable during the high temperature (50 °C) test period of 28 days. 4 μg/mL of SME decreases the lipid synthesis of SZ95 cells by 24.8%. The clinic efficacy of the shampoo containing 10% SME (by dry extract weigh) is further evaluated. No significant changes in the skin moisture content and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) are observed within four weeks after using the product, while the scalp sebum level is significantly reduced. ConclusionIn this study, we prepared a light-colored, highly stable SME, enabled its high-level addition in cleansing and care products and found its sebum-control efficacy.

Psychobiotics-like Activity as a Novel Treatment against Dry Scalp Related-White Flakes Production with Pogostemon cablin Leaf Extract

Microbiome supplementation initially targeted the gut microbiota but has since been extended to the skin. A new category, psychobiotics, defined beneficial compounds with a positive action on microbiota, providing benefits to the host’s mental health. Pogostemon cablin leaf extract, proven to alleviate scalp dryness, was clinically evaluated on volunteers presenting dry scalp with flakes. A metagenomics study and sebum production analysis were performed, coupled to flakes scoring. The benefits of Pogostemon cablin leaf extract on emotions were assessed through three neuroscientific methods. Through this study, we proved that the skin microbiota of dry scalp was imbalanced, with increased alpha diversity and decreased Cutibacterium relative abundance compared to oilier skin. After applying our ingredient for one month, microbiota was rebalanced with a decrease in alpha diversity and increase in Cutibacterium relative abundance compared to the initial profile. Microbiota rebalancing led to an increase in scalp sebum and decrease in dry flakes compared to the start of the study. This global rebalancing improved the emotional state of people with scalp dryness who expressed more positive emotions after treatment.

Effect of Scalp-Improvement on Adult Women of Shampoo Containing Extracts of Fermented Conger myriaster Peel

In this study, the effect of a shampoo containing fermented extract of <i>Conger myriaster</i> peel, a specialty of Pohang, Gyeongsangbuk-do, on the scalp was evaluated. For this study, a clinical trial was conducted for about 4 weeks from July 12, 2021 to August 9, 2021 with 22 Korean adult women between the ages of 20 and 60, after applying for deliberation of the plan for human subject research to the Institutional Bioethics Committee of the OATC Skin Clinical Trial Center and receiving approval (2018071702-2107-HR-129-01) from the Institutional Bioethics Committee on July 20, 2021. The results of this study are as follows. The compliance with the research product was 99.35%, and there was significant decrease in scalp sebum, dead skin cells, and scalp soothing effects was noted after using the research product for 4 weeks. Therefore, it was judged that the value of the local specialties could be increased through various clinical trials using local specialties and that it would be possible to utilize regional specialties for product development. Development of a such product can have a positive effect on increasing income of farming households that produce local specialties, and consumers have opportunities to use cosmetics containing effective ingredients from local specialties. In addition, it is believed that it will be able to vitalize the local economy of rural areas.

Malassezia restricta-mediated Lipoperoxidation: A Novel Trigger in Dandruff

Dandruff is a common scalp disorder with multiple microbial and host-related factors contributing to its aetiology, including alterations in scalp sebum. Despite existing evidence that the yeast Malassezia restricta plays a key role in the onset of dandruff, the interplay of these factors is poorly understood. Recently, squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde were established as biomarkers of dandruff-afflicted scalp, highlighting the role of sebum lipoperoxidation in the triggering and maintenance of dandruff, although its mechanism of action is unknown. The current study provides evidence that M. restricta mediates sebum peroxidation, leading to production of squalene monohydroperoxide and malondialdehyde. Furthermore, in vitro data show that these lipoperoxidation products act on epidermal cells and alter the skin barrier. These results support the role of Malassezia restricta-induced lipoperoxides as triggers of dandruff, which suggests that blocking their production could be a novel anti-dandruff treatment approach.

Comparison Analysis of Tests for the Sebum Content on the Scalp Using Meibometer<suup>® and Sebumeter<suup>®

Purpose: The purpose of this study is to show that Meibometer<sup>®</sup> is a useful analysis technique for the measurement and evaluation of the sebum content on the scalp by comparing the test analysis results of the scalp sebum content using Meibometer<sup>®</sup> and Sebumeter<sup>®</sup>.Methods: In this study, Meibometer<sup>®</sup> and Sebumeter<sup>®</sup> were used for quantitative measurements of the sebum content on the scalp of the test volunteers, and the measurement results were analyzed using the paired t-test and Pearson’s correlation coefficient.Results: The scalp sebum content was analyzed using Meibometer<sup>®</sup> and Sebumeter<sup>®</sup>, and according to the results, both measuring devices exhibited a reduction in the scalp sebum content, compared to before the testing product was applied (<i>p</i><0.001). The Meibometer<sup>®</sup> and Sebumeter<sup>®</sup> measurements showed a significant positive correlation (r=0.411) in the second measurement. Conclusion: These results showed that the measuring results of both Meibometer<sup>®</sup> and Sebumeter<sup>®</sup> had a high correlation and they were appropriate for measurement. However, it is suggested that for reducing the interference of the adjacent hair with sebum and quantitatively evaluating the sebum content on the scalp only, Meibometer<sup>®</sup> can be a relatively useful analysis technique, and it is expected that further test analysis and studies using Meibometer<sup>®</sup> will be actively conducted in the future.

Prevalence of female pattern hair loss in postmenopausal women: a cross-sectional study

Abstract Objective: To identify the prevalence of female pattern hair loss (FPHL), hair characteristics, and associated factors in healthy postmenopausal women. Methods: Two hundred postmenopausal women aged 50 to 65 years were recruited. Each participant was evaluated for FPHL according to Ludwig’s classification using standardized global photography in all six views and trichoscopy for hair density and diameter. Three dermatologists re-evaluated all pictures for confirmation of FPHL. The time since menopause, levels of scalp sebum, serum testosterone, estradiol, thyroid stimulating hormone, and hemoglobin; family history of hair loss, as well as an evaluation of low self-esteem were evaluated. Women who underwent recent hair loss treatments were excluded. We used simple and multivariable logistic regression analysis to identify the factors affecting FPHL. Results: In total, 178 postmenopausal women were evaluated for hair-loss patterns. The average age and time since menopause were 58.8±4.1 and 9.2 ± 5.6 years, respectively. The prevalence of FPHL was 52.2% (95% CI, 44.6-59.8). Severity of FPHL by Ludwig grades I, II, and III was 73.2% (95% CI, 62.9-81.8), 22.6% (95% CI, 14.6-32.4), and 4.3% (95% CI, 1.2-10.7), respectively. Logistic regression analysis revealed that age, time since menopause, and body mass index were all significantly associated with FPHL. After adjusting for age and family history of FPHL, only body mass index ≥25 kg/m2 was significantly associated with FPHL (adjusted OR = 2.65, 95% CI, 1.23-5.70). Conclusion: The prevalence of FPHL was high in postmenopausal women, raising the need for hair loss awareness in menopause clinics. Early detection and proper treatment of FPHL may increase the quality of life in postmenopausal women.

중국 2040 홈케어에 따른 두피 모발 상태 연구

Adults in their 20s, 30s, and 40s in China had significant differences in overall scalp and hair condition analysis according to scalp and hair home care behavior by age (p<.05). Scalp damages in the 30s was generally higher than in the 20s, and scalp sebum and inflammation differed significantly depending on age (F=3.872, p<.05). Scalp sebum and inflammation in their 30s were higher than those in their 20s. In addition, the scalp fever in their 30s was higher than those in their 40s. For differences in hair condition by age, the overall hair condition, lack of hair gloss, hair damage, gray hair, and hair loss during shampoo showed significant differences (p<.05). Hair damage in their 30s was more than those in their 20s and 40s. There were age differences in gray hair in the order of 40s, 30s, and 20s.

Gene expression profile of human follicle dermal papilla cells in response to Camellia japonica phytoplacenta extract.

Camellia japonica L. is a flowering tree with several medicinal and cosmetic applications. Here, we investigated the efficacy of C. japonica placenta extract (CJPE) as a potential therapeutic agent for promotion of hair growth and scalp health by using various in vitro and in vivo assays. Moreover, we performed transcriptome analysis to examine the relative expression of human follicle dermal papilla cells (HFDPC) in response to CJPE by RNA‐sequencing (RNA‐seq). In vitro assays revealed upregulation of the expression of hair growth marker genes in HFDPC after CJPE treatment. Moreover, in vivo clinical tests with 42 adult female participants showed that a solution containing 0.5% CJPE increased the moisture content of the scalp and decreased the scalp's sebum content, dead scalp keratin, and erythema. Furthermore, RNA‐seq analysis revealed key genes in HFDPC which are associated with CJPE. Interestingly, genes associated with lipid metabolism and cholesterol efflux were upregulated. Genes upregulated by CJPE are associated with several hormones, including parathyroid, adrenocorticotropic hormone, α‐melanocyte‐stimulating hormone (alpha‐MSH), and norepinephrine, which are involved in hair follicle biology. Furthermore, some upregulated genes are associated with the regulation of axon guidance. In contrast, many genes downregulated by CJPE are associated with structural components of the cytoskeleton. In addition, CJPE suppressed genes associated with muscle structure and development. Taken together, this study provides extensive evidence that CJPE may have potential as a therapeutic agent for scalp treatment and hair growth promotion.

Effect of oral administration of Triphala, a polyphenol-rich prebiotic, on scalp sebum in patients with scalp seborrhea a randomized clinical trial

Background Although there are various therapeutic options to control oily skin, they have potential side effects and limitations especially in long-term use. Pre/probiotics may have beneficial effects in atopic dermatitis‚ acne, dandruff, and seborrhea, demonstrated by some clinical trials. This trial conducted to determine whether the herbal prebiotic Triphala is effective in reducing scalp sebum secretion in patients with scalp seborrhea. Methods In this 8 week patient and outcome assessor-blinded, placebo-controlled trial participants with scalp seborrhea aged 14–50 years were randomized to Triphala or placebo groups. 1 g of Triphala (standardized as 91.82 ± 0.5 mg gallic acid) or placebo (wheat flour) were administered BID. Scalp sebum levels were detected objectively using Sebumeter® sm 815, and treatment satisfaction was measured using a score between 0 and 100. [Registration no. IRCT2014070218332N1]. Results Eighty patients completed the study (40 in Triphala group and 40 in placebo group). Participants in the Triphala group experienced 25.34 scores (95% CI, 0.39–50.29: p = .047) more improvement in scalp sebum levels compared with the placebo group. The mean percentage of patients' satisfaction was 37.91 (24.88) in the Triphala group and 17.89 (25.80) in the placebo group (p = .001). Conclusion Herbal prebiotic Triphala significantly reduced scalp sebum scores compared to placebo.

Factor analysis approach unveils the influencing factors of dandruff in the normal teenage population.

The aim of this study was to explore the main factors affecting the occurrence of dandruff in healthy people (nondisease-induced scalp desquamation). This study analyzed the fungal microbial diversity of the scalp in Chinese teenage volunteers and measured scalp sebum secretion, the scalp pH value, and scalp transepidermal water loss. The amount and size of dandruff were measured, and the main factors that influence dandruff in the normal population were identified using principal component analysis. The results showed that an increase in Malassezia restricta led to an increased amount of dandruff in the mild and moderate groups. Conversely, this was not found for individuals in the severe group, whose dandruff symptoms were influenced by scalp barrier function. In terms of dandruff area grouping, the pH value and the amount of sebum secretion were the main factors, with the barrier function and microbial diversity being secondary factors. Dandruff cosmetics should emphasize different treatments for different types of dandruff to achieve better antidandruff effects. The results of this study provide a new theoretical basis for the development of multiple targets for antidandruff agents aimed at the normal population.

The Beneficial Effects of an Oriental Herbal Complex Supplement on Women’s Hair and Scalp Conditions: A 24-week, Randomized, Double-blind, Placebo-controlled Study

Purpose: Diet is an environmental factor with the potential to significantly influence body changes. Up to now, no study has investigated the effects of the black bean-licorice-biotae folium extract on humans. Therefore, in this study, we examined the effects of this extract on hair and scalp - with regard to total hair number, hair diameter, scalp moisture and sebum. Materials and Method: This study was a randomized, double-blind clinical trial with a 28 week duration. At the -4 week time point of test product intake, participants were enrolled according to criteria and underwent a washout period (4 weeks). At weeks 0, subjects were randomly assigned to one of two treatment regimens: (i) placebo product (4 capsules/day, 700 mg/capsule) or (ii) test product (4 capsules/day, 700 mg/capsule). At weeks 0 and 24, we performed a visual assessment, hair number count and hair diameter, scalp hydration level and sebum excretion level. Results: Expert assessment was positive for the test group. Although the effect on the hair density was not significant, it was positive. Additionally, the hair diameter in the test group significantly increased and significantly decreased in the placebo group. For scalp hydration, the effect was only positive. However, for sebum, the complex appeared to help sebum secretion decrease. There were no safety issues. Conclusion: This study shows that this oriental herbal complex supplement (a Black Bean (Glycine max), Licorice (Glycyrrhiza uralensis Fisch), and Biotae Folium (Thuja orientalis) mixture) is probably effective in improving hair and scalp conditions.

Evaluation of the Effect of Plant Mixture Ethanol Extracts Containing Biota orientalis L. Extract on Suppression of Sebum in Cultured Sebocytes and on Stimulation of Growth of Keratinocytes Co-cultured with Hair Papilla Cells

Biota orientalis L. leaf extract (BOLE) is used medically to improve strength and arrest hemorrhage. In China, BOLE has been used in traditional medicine for its antibacterial properties and for hair restoration. In this study, we investigated the mechanism of hair restoration by BOLE from the point of view of the sebum suppressant effect and hair loss prevention. BOLE at 25 or 50 μg/mL final concentrations, a hair growth plant ethanol extract (HGPEE), and a hair growth plant water extract (HGPWE) (the latter two each containing BOLE and other plant compounds), were used to study: (1) the sebum suppressant effect in sebocytes from normal golden hamster ear pinna origin; (2) the effect on the growth of human fetal epidermal keratinocytes; and (3) the effect on gene expression related to hair growth stimulation, with (2) and (3) studied in human fetal epidermal keratinocytes and hair papilla cells. BOLE had a sebum depletion effect in cultured sebocytes; moreover, the amounts of mRNA of the hair growth factors, KGF, VEGF, and G3PDH analyzed by real-time polymerase chain reaction in human hair papilla cells were increased by HGPEE. The amount of mRNA of Wnt10b in cultured epidermal keratinocytes was increased by the addition of BOLE, and the growth of the cultured epidermal keratinocytes was promoted by HGPEE in a two-layer culture system of hair papilla cells and epidermal keratinocytes. HGPEE had a hair growth promotion/hair restoration effect and a sebum suppression effect. Hair restorers containing HGPEE may be useful for stimulating hair growth and suppressing excess scalp sebum in males and females.

Ageing-Related Features of Hair and Scalp in Chinese Women by Clinical Evaluation Study

There are previous studies of ageing hair and scalp in Caucasians and some Asians, such as Koreans and Japanese. However, the characteristics of scalp and hair have not yet been studied in Chinese, the largest population in the world, especially in terms of ageing. The purpose of this study is to investigate ageing features in Chinese women’s hair and scalp. Methods: In total, 1343 women in China aged 20 to 65 participated in this research. Hair density and diameter were measured and analysed with Folliscope&reg. Hair color and scalp conditions such as dandruff and erythema were evaluated through microscopic images. Measuring equipment was also used to detect scalp water content, barrier function and sebum secretion. Results: Hair density decreased gradually with ageing, while hair diameter peaked at 40s. The color of hair became bright with ageing because of gray hair and color fading. The degree of scalp sebum and dandruff was higher at younger ages. Interestingly, scalp erythema became more severe with ageing. Conclusion: This study shows the physical and physiological changes of Chinese women’s hair and scalp. Most aging features (hair diameter, scalpsebum contents, dandruff and erythema) were noticeable in their 40s, but hair density began to decline in their 30s. This first study of aging hair and scalp in Chinese women would be helpful for understanding the ageing phenomenon and development of hair and scalp care products.

Exploration of scalp surface lipids reveals squalene peroxide as a potential actor in dandruff condition.

Dandruff is a common but complex disorder with three major contributing factors: (1) individual predisposition, (2) scalp sebum and (3) Malassezia yeast colonization. To obtain further insights into the role of sebum in dandruff biogenesis, we analyzed scalp lipid species in a cohort of ten dandruff-free (control) and ten dandruff-afflicted volunteers by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Lipid peroxidation levels and biochemical markers of oxidative stress were also assessed. Squalene, a major sebum component, was significantly more peroxidized in dandruff-affected scalps, resulting in significantly higher ratios of squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH)/squalene. This was observed when comparing dandruff-affected zones of dandruff subjects to both their non-affected zones and control subjects. In addition, other biomarkers such as malondialdehyde indicated that oxidative stress levels were raised on dandruff scalps. Surprisingly, differences regarding either free or bound fatty acids were fairly rare and minor. Certain novel findings, especially squalene peroxidation levels, were then confirmed in a validation cohort of 24 dandruff-affected subjects, by comparing dandruff-affected and non-dandruff zones from the same individuals. As SQOOH can induce both keratinocyte inflammatory responses and hyperproliferation in vitro, we hypothesized that increased SQOOH could be considered as a new etiological dandruff factor via its ability to impair scalp barrier function. Our results also indicated that Malassezia could be a major source of squalene peroxidation on the scalp.Electronic supplementary materialThe online version of this article (doi:10.1007/s00403-016-1623-1) contains supplementary material, which is available to authorized users.

高湿度条件下における整髪剤のセット力低下に及ぼす頭皮脂の影響，および頭皮脂の毛髪上への移行について

整髪剤開発においてセット力およびその持続力は最も重要な特性であり，汗や湿度などの水分がそれらを低減させる最大の要因として認知されている。われわれはこれまで，「頭皮脂」が頭皮から毛髪に移行し，様々な剤型の整髪剤のセット力およびその持続力を低下させるという現象を見出した1）。本研究では，高湿度条件下における頭皮脂のセット力に与える影響，および頭皮脂の毛髪への移行挙動について検証を行った。その結果，高湿度条件下において頭皮脂の毛髪への移行が促進され，湿度によって低下したセット力が，頭皮脂によってさらに低下することが明らかとなった。これまで高湿度下において水分のみが整髪力低下の原因であると考えられてきたが，本研究により，水分と皮脂が共存することによって整髪剤のセット力をより低下させることが明らかになった。

Baseline sebum IL‐1α is higher than expected in afro‐textured hair: a risk factor for hair loss?*

To investigate changes in sebum cytokines in response to hair cosmetics. Design and setting A prospective study at a University hospital. We used a novel method for scalp surface sebum collection (Sebutape(®)) on three visits, sequentially a week apart, to investigate changes in six cytokines in 36 healthy women before and after shampoo and compared various chemical treatments (ammonium thioglycolate, "lye" sodium hydroxide and "no-lye" guanidine hydroxide relaxers) performed by a professional hairdresser. Significant levels detected were IL-1 alpha (IL-1α) and IL-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1ra), which were higher in untreated scalp vs. forehead: P < 0.001. Baseline levels of scalp sebum IL-1α were 18 times higher than IL-1ra. The levels of IL-1α decreased uniformly after shampoo (visit 1) and various chemical treatments (both crown and vertex all P < 0.001 - visit 2) but increased on follow-up at visit 3. Decreases in IL-1ra mimicked IL-1α at the vertex [after shampoo (P = 0.018) and visit 3 (P = 0.014)], but not on the crown, a finding which may suggest site-specific scalp predisposition to inflammation. The ratio of IL-1ra/IL-1α increased in all groups after all chemical treatments and on follow-up (all P < 0.001) but was surprisingly not significantly different from natural hair that underwent shampoo. A wider cytokine panel may reveal response differences in treatment groups. Baseline inflammatory scalp cytokines are higher than expected and reduce with shampooing. Scrutiny of the influence of hair moisturizer formulations and shampoo intervals and studies investigating pro-fibrotic cytokines are required. This may elucidate the predilection of afro-textured hair to scarring alopecia.

A Comparison of Hair Quality and Cosmetic Acceptance Following the Use of Two Anti-Dandruff Shampoos

Dandruff is a chronic condition of the scalp requiring vigilant treatment to ameliorate the symptoms of scaling and itching. Frequent shampooing is key to controlling these symptoms while contributing to the cosmetic appearance of the hair. The success of the treatment depends not only on the ability of the shampoo to control the dandruff but also on patient compliance engendered by the cosmetic attributes of the shampoo. This double-blind cross-over study enrolled 40 women with mild to moderate dandruff. Following a 1-wk washout with an unmedicated basic cleansing shampoo, all subjects used each of the two study shampoos for 1 wk. Subjects preferred the 1% pyrithione zinc conditioning shampoo over the 2% ketoconazole shampoo by 75% in terms of overall performance. The dermatologist investigator confirmed the subject preference by noting that hair-combing ease, hair smoothness, and hair frizz/flyaway were statistically significantly better in subjects who used the 1% pyrithione zinc conditioning shampoo for 1 wk. This study suggests that hair condition is an important consideration in the treatment of dandruff due to compliance.

‘Bad hair days’, scalp sebum excretion and the menstrual cycle

Many women complain that their hair is periodically unmanageable, popularly known as 'bad hair days' (BHDs). At an anecdotal level BHDs are more common around the time of menstruation and, in view of previous studies reporting menstrual variation in sebum excretion, the authors hypothesised that changes in scalp sebum levels during the menstrual cycle might contribute to perceive differences in hair quality. To test whether there is a relationship between BHDs, the menstrual cycle and scalp sebum excretion. Thirteen women were studied through three menstrual cycles. Sebum levels on the scalp and forehead were measured twice weekly using a Sebumeter and each subject kept a record of hair quality and hair washing practice. BHDs occurred throughout the menstrual cycle but were more common during menstruation. There was no discernible variation in sebum levels on the scalp or forehead during the menstrual cycle and there was no correlation between individual mean skin sebum levels and the frequency of BHDs. However, BHDs were more common in those women who washed their hair infrequently, although the association between the frequency of hair washing and BHDs just failed to reach statistical significance (p = 0.06). BHDs are more common during menstruation and in women who wash their hair infrequently. This may relate to a build-up of sebum on the hair but menstrual variations in the frequency of BHDs are unrelated to sebum levels.