We investigate a puzzle in the recent thermodynamics of scalar-tensor gravity, in which general relativity is a zero-temperature state of equilibrium and scalar-tensor gravity is the non-equilibrium configuration of an effective dissipative fluid. A stealth solution of Brans-Dicke gravity with constant positive temperature is shown to be analogous to a metastable state for the effective fluid and to suffer from an instability. The stability analysis employs a version of the Bardeen-Ellis-Bruni-Hwang gauge-invariant formalism for cosmological perturbations adapted to modified gravity. The metastable state is destroyed by tensor perturbations.