Run-up Characteristics Research Articles

Jumping with control: the interplay between psychological constructs and run-up variability in elite jumpers.

The purpose of this study was to examine the relationship between psychological aspects (emotional regulation, self-control, mood states, and perceived stress) and components of run-up variability in horizontal jumps and to conduct comparisons based on sex, events (long jump and triple jump), and contextual situations (training versus competition). A total of 10 elite-level athletes (five males and five females) with a mean age of 27.14 (±4.25) years were recruited for the study. All participants had competed nationally or internationally and had 13.10 (±3.48) years of athletic experience. Data were collected during competitions and training sessions for 5 weeks. The participants completed the Brunel Mood Scale, Emotional Regulation Questionnaire, Brief Self-Control Scale, and Visual Analogical Scale of Perceived Stress before each session. The components of run-up variability of successful and failed attempts were measured using video analysis. Data were analyzed using a t-test, Pearson's correlation, and Cohen's d. Athletes specializing in long jump and triple jump displayed similar psychological and run-up variability characteristics. However, females showed higher values for tension and depression, whereas males had higher run-up speeds and vigor. In competitions, athletes tended to have higher vigor, lower fatigue and confusion, an earlier beginning of the adjustment phase, fewer failed attempts, and higher run-up speed than during training. Emotional regulation is inversely related to depression in women during competitions, whereas higher self-control is associated with fewer failed jumps. Athletes competing in the long jump and the triple jump do not differ in psychological traits and run-up characteristics, which suggests that similar training strategies can be used in both events. However, different solutions should be used considering the sex of athletes, with a particular focus on utilizing emotion regulation tools to modulate depression in female jumpers. It is recommended to include training sessions that simulate competition demands, primarily to ensure the early onset of the run-up adjustment phase.

Observations of wave run-up affected by dune scarp during storm conditions: a two dimensional large-scaled movable bed experiment

Artificial dunes serve as essential nature-based defenses against the increasing threats posed by climate change and rising sea levels along coastal regions. However, these man-made dunes are particularly susceptible to erosion during severe storm events, necessitating careful consideration of their design for effective coastal protection. Among the myriad factors influencing artificial dune design, wave run-up stands out as a paramount concern. Not only is wave run-up crucial in assessing the extent of coastal flooding, but it also plays a significant role in shaping shoreline dynamics. During intense storm events, wave run-up amplification leads to substantial erosion of sand dunes, forming dune scarps that resemble cliffs. To address these challenges, we conducted a series of innovative two-dimensional large-scale laboratory experiments using movable beds. These experiments aimed to provide a quantitative understanding of wave run-up characteristics on dune scarps. Additionally, our study explored the feasibility of using existing empirical formulas to predict the 2% exceedance of wave run-up (referred to as R2%) in such scenarios. Our results revealed a consistent trend in R2% values, irrespective of variations in the surf similarity parameter when wave run-up was influenced by a dune scarp. Notably, our findings recommend the adoption of the Stockdon empirical formula, incorporating beach slope from the still water level to the dune scarp toe, as an effective method for predicting R2% during highly erosive conditions. This approach can significantly enhance the design and functionality of artificial dunes, bolstering their capacity to safeguard coastal areas from the impacts of severe storms and erosion, thus contributing to resilient coastal ecosystems and sustainable coastal management.

Wave run-up characteristic on armour layer breakwater using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method

Coastal structures, such as breakwater, play a critical role in protecting shorelines from the erosive forces of waves and currents. Understanding the wave run-up phenomenon on these structures is essential for designing effective coastal defense systems. This research aims to investigate the wave run-up characteristics on an armour layer breakwater using the Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) method (Meshless particle method based on the Lagrangian formulation), a numerical method that captures complex fluid-structure interactions. The SPH method’s inherent ability to handle free-surface flows and dynamic interactions makes it particularly suited for simulating wave run-up. The research employs numerical testing and modelling of a non-overtopping breakwater using the smoothed particle hydrodynamics method simulated with the DualSPHysics program. The wave characteristic data used in this research are the waves on the south coast of Java. The results of this research indicate that the correlation between wave run-up characteristics (Ru/H) and the Iribarren number, both using the numerical SPH method and theory, tends to exhibit a similar pattern. Remarkably, the results from both approaches exhibit a striking similarity, revealing that as the Iribarren number increases, the incremental growth of Ru/H diminishes, eventually stabilizing at a critical threshold. The Coefficient of Determination (R2) between wave run-up characteristics (Ru/H) obtained from numerical simulations using the SPH method and Günbak’s theory is 0.8824.

CFD Study for Wave Run-up Characteristics Around a Truncated Cylinder with Damper

In this study, numerical simulations for a single fixed truncated circular cylinder in regular waves were conducted to investigate the nonlinear wave run-up under various dampers and wave period conditions. The present study used the volume of fluid (VOF) technique to capture the air-water interface. The unsteady Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (URANS) equation with the k– ϵ turbulence model was solved using the commercial computational fluid dynamics (CFD) software STAR-CCM+. First, a systematic spatial convergence study was conducted to assess the performance and precision of the present numerical wave tank. The numerical scheme was validated by comparing the numerical results of wave run-up on a bare truncated cylinder with the experimental results, and a good agreement was achieved. Then, a series of parametric studies were carried out to examine the wave run-up time series around the truncated cylinder with single and dual dampers in terms of the first- and second-order harmonic and mean set-up components. Additionally, the local wave field and the flow velocity vectors adjacent to the cylinder were evaluated. It was confirmed that under short wave conditions, the high position of the damper led to a noticeable increase in the wave run-ups with significant changes in the first- and second-order harmonic components.

Numerical investigation of wave run-up and impact forces on large offshore jacket platforms

This paper focuses on wave interactions with large deep-sea jacket platforms. A numerical wave tank is designed and developed to simulate the wave-structure interactions, and the accuracy and precision of this numerical wave tank are verified by the theoretical values and LWI experimental tests. Then the processes of wave run-up along with the legs and impact the lower deck of a large deep-sea jacket platform located at the South China Sea are simulated, analyzed, and discussed. The results show that the greater the wave steepness, the stronger the wave run-up ability. The wave run-up processes are mainly concentrated within a radius R around the legs, and the maximum wave run-up ratio reaches 1.56 on the front side of leg 1 when the wave steepness is 0.03. Due to the interference, reflection, and superposition effects, all the legs show different wave run-up characteristics, and additional high-frequency side wave peaks are observed around the legs, which are mainly focused on 0–0.6 Hz in the frequency domain. With the increase of wave steepness λ, the wave drag forces increase significantly during the wave run-up processes. Especially, when the waves impact the lower deck under case 3, it will cause huge vertical wave impact loads, and the maximum value reaches 46.59 MPa, which will cause further attenuation to the vertical and lateral resistance of the jacket platform.

Runup characteristics of a tsunami-like wave on a slope beach

Solitary waves (SWs) are often applied to the investigation of the hydraulic characteristics of tsunamis. However, SWs not only have a considerably narrower distribution than an actual tsunami but also have a smaller volume. By examining the 2011 Tohoku tsunami, we found that the volume ratio (V/V0) of the tsunami observed from the GPS buoy to the SW ranged from 2.54 to 14.76. This study proposes a tsunami-like wave (TLW) generation method which improves the shortcomings of existing SWs and has characteristic similar to an actual tsunami to better represent such wide-waveform tsunamis. Numerical analysis was performed by considering the TLW with various waveforms. In SWs, the maximum runup on the slope and the beginning of the rundown at the shoreline occur almost simultaneously. In a TLW, in contrast, rundown starts first under the influence of gravity before reaching the maximum runup height on the slope. As the waveform distribution becomes wider, the time difference between the beginning of the rundown and the maximum runup increases. The runup height increases as V/V0 increases within a certain range, but the rise slows beyond this range. Correlation of newly proposed friction parameters with the TLW breaking conditions, breaking wave types, and non-dimensional runup was also analyzed.

On the evolution and runup of a train of solitary waves on a uniform beach

In this paper the runup of a train of successive solitary waves is studied. Using a wavemaker with 5-m stroke, a series of evenly-spaced solitary waves, up to nine, is generated in a wave flume. These solitary waves shoal and run up on a 1 on 10 slope. The nonlinearity parameter, i.e., the wave height to water depth ratio, ranges between 0.11 and 0.39. The experimental data show that the runup heights of successive solitary waves reach an asymptotic value after the fourth wave in all cases studied. Depending on the nonlinearity, the runup characteristics can be categorized as either weakly or strongly interacting cases. For the former the runup heights of the successive waves are almost identical to that of a single solitary wave. For the latter, the asymptotic runup value is always lower than that of the first wave. Using the experimental data, two- and three-dimensional Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes equations models are first validated with a high degree of accordance. Additional numerical simulations are performed to extend the experimental database and investigate effects of beach slopes and higher wave nonlinearity values. Finally, using both numerical results and the laboratory data, the unified empirical runup formula for single breaking solitary waves and breaking periodic waves is found applicable to obtain the maximum runup height of successive solitary waves.

TSUNAMI RUNUP AMPLIFICATION OF BREAKING AND NON-BREAKING ERROR-FUNCTION WAVES OVER A SLOPING BEACH IN SHADOW ZONE BY A SMALL ISLAND

The time series of free surface elevation measured in and outside the shadow zone were compared and analyzed in the time-frequency domain by employing the continuous wavelet transform. Regardless of the conditions of the ERF wave in the shadow zone, an increase in magnitude of energy is noticeable not only in the peak frequency within a range of approximately 0.8 to 1 Hz but also in the low-frequency range of around 0.1 Hz corresponding to second up to third crest of the leading wave. To determine the effective frequency of ERF waves and evaluate their runup characteristics, we applied a new method of describing the ERF wave, which consists of linear superposition of two solitary waves. As a result, the ERF waves show the same trend in runup characteristics as for solitary waves.

Numerical Analysis of Wave Run-up Characteristics on Dual Non-submerged Vertical Cylinders

In this paper, a numerical model is set up to solve the mild slope equation proposed by Berkhoff using the finite element method. The computational result of wave run-up on a single non-submerged vertical cylinder matches well with the analytical solution, verifying the validity of the numerical model. The effect of the spacing between two cylinders on wave run-up is discussed. The results show that the position of maximum and minimum wave run-up on the upstream cylinder is almost the same with that of a single cylinder, but when the spacing is odd or even times of one quarter of incident wavelength, the secondary maximum or minimum wave run-up appears at the both sides of the cylinder. The curves of wave run-up on the downstream cylinder is similar but smaller than that of a single cylinder.

Tsunami Run-Up on a Plane Beach in a Tidal Environment

We analytically solve the nonlinear shallow water theory for the tsunami run-up on a plane beach in the presence of tide and show that over a plane beach the tide in the nearshore zone can be considered static (uniform in space and frozen in time). With this assumption, we find an exact analytical solution for the tsunami run-up height as a function of the amplitude of the incident wave and analyse the influence of the tide on the tsunami run-up characteristics. We confirm these results by calculation of the total tsunami and tidal run-up field using analytical solutions of the initial nonlinear shallow water equations.

Probabilistic characteristics of narrow-band long-wave run-up onshore

Abstract. The run-up of random long-wave ensemble (swell, storm surge, and tsunami) on the constant-slope beach is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water theory in the approximation of non-breaking waves. If the incident wave approaches the shore from the deepest water, run-up characteristics can be found in two stages: in the first stage, linear equations are solved and the wave characteristics at the fixed (undisturbed) shoreline are found, and in the second stage the nonlinear dynamics of the moving shoreline is studied by means of the Riemann (nonlinear) transformation of linear solutions. In this paper, detailed results are obtained for quasi-harmonic (narrow-band) waves with random amplitude and phase. It is shown that the probabilistic characteristics of the run-up extremes can be found from the linear theory, while the same ones of the moving shoreline are from the nonlinear theory. The role of wave-breaking due to large-amplitude outliers is discussed, so that it becomes necessary to consider wave ensembles with non-Gaussian statistics within the framework of the analytical theory of non-breaking waves. The basic formulas for calculating the probabilistic characteristics of the moving shoreline and its velocity through the incident wave characteristics are given. They can be used for estimates of the flooding zone characteristics in marine natural hazards.

OPTICAL MEASUREMENTS FOR LABORATORY OBSERVATIONS OF TSUNAMI RUN-UP ON CONICAL ISLANDS

Recent studies and observations suggest that small islands near the mainland do not offer protection against tsunamis and may in fact amplify the run-up. The goal of this study was to better understand how the combined effect of small islands and reefs affects tsunamis runup on a planar beach. Optical measurements were carried out to study the run-up characteristics. The study was carried out in the Tsunami Wave Basin at the O.H. Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory, Oregon State University. Two Panasonic AW-HE60 cameras where used to track run-up on the shore. Through camera calibration we obtain the camera’s parameters which are used to undistort the image and obtain reliable run-up measurements. Using a total station ground control points where collected to rectify the images and obtain ‘real world coordinates’ from the videos. The approach of Rueben et al. (2011) was used to track the wave fronts from the video data.

Tsunami Wave Run-up on a Vertical Wall in Tidal Environment

We solve analytically a nonlinear problem of shallow water theory for the tsunami wave run-up on a vertical wall in tidal environment. Shown that the tide can be considered static in the process of tsunami wave run-up. In this approximation, it is possible to obtain the exact solution for the run-up height as a function of the incident wave height. This allows us to investigate the tide influence on the run-up characteristics.

Evaluation of Runup Characteristics on the NSW Coast

ABSTRACT Morris, B.D., Foulsham, E., Laine, R., Wiecek, D. and Hanslow, D., 2016. Evaluation of run-up characteristics on the NSW coast. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 1187–1191. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Communities and infrastructure along the coast of New South Wales, Australia, are vulnerable to coastal inundation from the combined impacts of ocean tides, storm surge, wave setup, wave run-up and wave overtopping. The focus of the current work is to examine the potential for coastal inundation on beaches and dunes on the open coast of NSW through the evaluation of wave run-up. To achieve this we combine information on tides, surge and wave runup to examine dune overtopping potential. The study utilises data from the NSW wave and ocean tide gauge network and an extensive set of beach profile and grainsize data cov...

Tsunami evolution and run-up in a large scale experimental facility

In this paper, we study the propagation and run-up of long tsunami-like waves in the 300m long Large Wave Flume (GWK), Hannover, Germany and analyze the feasibility of experiments on tsunami run-up in large facilities. This paper is the continuation of our previous paper (Schimmels et al., 2015, companion paper). The propagation of long period waves over large distances for different shapes is studied experimentally and numerically. Fully nonlinear potential flow theory has been used to model these cases numerically along with Korteweg–de Vries simulations. The theoretical explanation of the observed effects has been discussed. The run-up characteristics of the studied waves with respect to their shape and beach slope were also investigated. Further, a downscaled real tsunami time series is also reproduced experimentally and studied with regard to its possible run-up.

Influence of the shape of the bay cross section on wave run-up

This article compares the characteristics of wave run up on a shore in sloped bays of arbitrary section as calculated in terms of strict solutions of nonlinear shallow water theory. The solitary waves of the same amplitude, “significant” duration, and different shapes are considered. For each geometry of a bay, parameterization of formulas is performed in order to eliminate the influence of the shape of waves approaching the shore on these formulas describing extreme wave run-up characteristics. The results obtained earlier for a plane beach and a parabolic beach are reproduced, and the new bay shapes (with a triangular cross section and with a cross-section profile varying proportionately to the coordinate in fourth and tenth degree) are considered. It is shown that in narrower bays the maximal run-up and run-down heights and the respective run-up and run-down velocities are higher than those in wider bays. At a run up of a solitary wave in a parabolic bay, run-up and run-down heights coincide, whereas in wider bays the run-up height exceeds the run-down height and in narrower bays, for example, in triangular ones, the opposite pattern (run-down height exceeds run-up height) is observed.

A note on the uncertainty in tsunami shape for estimation of its run-up heights

In practice, when tsunami approaches the coast and the time for decision making and issuing warning alert is limited, design formulas for fast estimation of tsunami run-up characteristics are applied. The most famous and the most used among them assume that incoming wave has a solitonic shape. However, the exact shape of the incoming wave is usually unknown. This is why it is important to know the error caused by the wave shape uncertainty. In this paper, we discuss how the uncertainty of the incoming wave shape influences its run-up characteristics in different bays. Two typical beach geometries: plane beach and U-shaped bay are considered.

Shallow water effects on high order statistics and probability distributions of wave run-ups along FPSO broadside

Ship hydrodynamics in shallow water becomes especially complicated since the nonlinearities in both the incident waves and the wave–hull interactions will be affected by the water depth. For a ship-shaped Floating Production, Storage and Offloading unit (FPSO) operating in shallow water, the broadside often suffers from the wave run-up and green water incidents in non-collinear harsh ocean environments. By applying the methods of ordinary moments and L-moments and the empirical Weibull distribution on the data measured in a series of model experiments, the high order statistics and the exceedance probability distribution of the run-ups along the FPSO broadside are evaluated and the effects of the shallow water depth and the incident environments are analyzed in this paper. It is seen that both the incident waves and the wave run-ups are non-Gaussian in shallow water and that the wave run-up characteristics are significantly influenced by the water depth and the incident environments, while the contribution due to the vessel vertical motions is negligible for the FPSO used in this study. The exceedance probabilities of the wave run-ups show that the broadside will be more likely to suffer from serious wave run-up and green water incidents in shallower water, in a higher incident wave and a non-collinear environment, especially so at locations around the FPSO midship within a range of 3/8Lpp ∼ 5/8Lpp. The dependency of the shape and scale parameters of the wave run-up probability distributions on the locations and the environment is quantified by model tests. The present study leads to the conclusion that the wave run-up characteristics and the shallow water effects should be considered carefully in determining the wave loads and the freeboard of a large FPSO in non-collinear environment conditions.

Runup and Rundown Characteristics of an Emerged Seaside Perforated Quarter Circle Breakwater

Quarter circle breakwater (QBW) is developed from semicircular breakwater (SBW) and the first model was developed in Peoples Republic of China. The superstructure of QBW consists of a quarter circular front wall facing incident waves, a horizontal base slab and a vertical rear wall placed on rubble mound foundation. A series of experiments were conducted in a two dimensional regular wave flume available in Marine structures laboratory of Department of Applied Mechanics and Hydraulics of National Institute of Technology, Surathkal, Karnataka to assess the wave runup and wave rundown characteristics of an emerged seaside perforated quarter circle breakwater. Quarter-circle breakwater models with three different radii and S/D (spacing to diameter of perforations) ratio equal to 5 were tested. The data collected was analyzed by plotting the graph of dimensionless wave run up, Ru/Hi (where Ru= runup and Hi= incident wave height) and dimensionless wave rundown, Rd/ Hi (where Rd = wave rundown and Hi= incident wave height) for various values of wave steepness, Hi/gT2 and different height of structure to the depth of water (hs/d) values. The dimensionless wave runup, Ru/Hi increases with the increase in the wave steepness and also it increases with the increase in hs/d but the dimensionless wave rundown, Rd/Hi decreases with the increase in the wave steepness and also it decreases with the increase in hs/d.

Parameterization of run-up characteristics for long bell-shaped solitary waves propagating in a bay of parabolic cross-section

Run-up of solitary waves of different bell-like shapes (solitary-like and Lorentz-like waves and sine-like pulses) is studied in a linearly inclined bay of parabolic cross-section. Their maximum run-up heights, maximum water flow velocities, and parameters of wave breaking on the beach are calculated, compared, and discussed. It is shown that these parameters for different pulses of the same height and characteristic wavelength coincide with an acceptable accuracy, hence allowing parameterization of the corresponding formulas for run-up characteristics.