Rock Climber Research Articles

Changes in Bilateral Hand Force After 30 Minutes of Climbing in Elite Level Rock Climbers

Rock climbing is a sport that requires finger flexor strength and endurance to maintain isometric contractions during an ascent. It has been shown that climbers have higher finger flexion strength and endurance than the general population at the proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP). What is unclear, however, is if years of training and conditioning have caused these adaptations to occur bilaterally in both the dominant (D) and non-dominant (ND) arms of elite level rock climbers. It is essential for climbers to have equal, bilateral finger flexor strength and endurance capacity as rock climbing stresses both sides of the body. Weakness on one side may result in a fall or failure to complete a route. PURPOSE: To analyze change in average force production in D and ND finger flexors of elite-level rock climbers over the course of 30 min of climbing. METHODS: 8 elite- level (age: 29.4 ± 4.7 y, climbing experience: 11.1 ± 5.2 y, mean project grade: 9.7 ± 0.3 UIAA) rock climber’s D and ND finger flexor strength was tested using a mounted force transducer. A 20-sec isometric contraction was performed with the arm fixed at 90° elbow flexion and 120° of horizontal shoulder abduction. Subjects were given two warm up contractions on each hand before the 20-sec MVIC. Subjects then climbed on a treadwall for six 5-min intervals. Total climbing time was 30 min. The treadwall rotated at 6 m/min with a 6° overhang. The isometric force assessment was repeated at the end of each interval and kept to less than 3 min to prevent recovery. Force data were analyzed by removing the first and last 10% of the contraction and averaging the remaining 16 sec. Data were expressed both in absolute (N) and as a percentage of the initial MVIC trial (relative). A paired t-test was used to compare the pre-MVIC to the MVIC at 30 min. RESULTS: No statistical differences were found for change in absolute force between D (29.1 ± 26.1 N) and ND (41.5 ± 63.6 N) hands or in relative force between D (8.05 ± 7.5%) and ND (12.09 ± 11.7%) hand. Mean change in force relative to BW after 30 min of climbing: D (0.44 ± 0.39 N/kg BW), ND (0.62 ± 0.96 N/kg BW). CONCLUSION: Elite-level rock climbers do not show a bilateral deficit between their D and ND hands typically seen in other sports. This could be due to years of symmetrical training and the stresses that are applied to both limbs while rock climbing.

Physical therapy management of an elite rock climber with subacromial impingement syndrome (SIS)

Abstract Background: The purpose of this case report is to describe a conservative physical therapy plan that was successful in the treatment of a functional classification of subacromial impingement syndrome (SIS). SIS

Response to "Nature fix: Addiction to outdoor activities"R. C. Buckley's commentary on Heirene, R. M., Shearer, D., Roderique-Davies, G., & Mellalieu, S. D. (2016). Addiction in extreme sports: An exploration of withdrawal states in rock climbers. Journal of Behavioral Addictions, 5, 332-341.

Buckley’s commentary on our study of rock climber’s withdrawal experiences raises a number of important questions surrounding the concept of extreme or adventure sports addiction. Drawing on the few available investigations of this topic, we respond to Buckley’s questions here, though emphasize the need for further studies of extreme sports addiction in order to provide more empirically informed answers.

Imaging the Injured Pediatric Athlete: Upper Extremity

Increased physical activity in childhood has resulted in a large number of sports-related injuries. Although there is overlap between the sports-related injuries seen in pediatric and adult patients, important differences exist in the injury patterns of pediatric patients. These differences are related to the continuous changes in the developing skeleton and its relationship with adjacent soft tissues. The imbalance in strength between the growing bones and the nearby tendons and ligaments makes the bones prone to acute and chronic injuries. Acute injuries are more common in contact sports such as football and wrestling, whereas chronic injuries are often seen in baseball pitchers and gymnasts. Acute injuries unique to pediatric athletes include physeal fractures of the proximal and distal portions of the clavicle (periosteal sleeve fracture), the proximal humeral physis, and the coracoid process, as well as supracondylar, lateral condylar, and medial condylar fractures around the elbow. Chronic injuries, most commonly caused by repetitive microtrauma, include acromial apophyseolysis, Little Leaguer's shoulder, the constellation of findings seen in Little Leaguer's elbow, and injuries to the medial, lateral, and posterior elbow compartments. In addition, trochlear osteochondral lesions, gymnast's wrist, and rock climber's finger are less-common injuries that may be seen in children. In this article, the normal osseous development of the upper extremity is reviewed, with emphasis on the structures that are most commonly injured. The pathophysiology, imaging appearance, and imaging findings of pediatric athletic injuries are described, along with the prognostic implications. ©RSNA, 2016.

The significance of pelvic fin flexibility for tree climbing fish

In this article, we compare the characteristics of biomechanical attachment exhibited by two morphologically different mudskipper species, Boleophthalmus boddarti (with fused pelvic fins) and Periophthalmus variabilis (with unfused pelvic fins). P. variabilis is a tree and rock climber while B. boddarti dwells in the muddy shallows and is unable to climb. Our aim in this article is to determine whether it is predominantly chemical or morphological properties of the pelvic fins from each species that may allow P. variabilis to climb trees whilst preventing B. boddarti from doing the same. To fulfil our objective we perform friction and suction resistance tests, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy of the mucosal secretions under the fins, direct geometrical measurements and finite element modelling. We find that B. boddarti has considerable resistance to pull-off forces, while P. variabilis has greater frictional resistance. Both species produce mucopolysaccaharides that we suggest aid Stefan adhesion to different substrates. P. variabilis fins are, nevertheless, considerably more flexible than those of B. boddarti and we conclude that P. variabilis is consequently able to maintain a more intimate surface area of contact with underlying material, which aids Stefan adhesion, increases frictional resistance, and helps it to climb trees.

Acute short radiolunate ligament rupture in a rock climber

We report the occurrence of a short radiolunate ligament rupture in a rock climber. To our knowledge, an isolated traumatic rupture of this ligament has not been described in the literature, and awareness of this entity allows initiation of therapy. The magnetic resonance imaging and ultrasound appearances are reviewed and the mechanism of injury is discussed.

The Structure of Performance of a Sport Rock Climber

This study is a contribution to the discussion about the structure of performance of sport rock climbers. Because of the complex and multifaceted nature of this sport, multivariate statistics were applied in the study. The subjects included thirty experienced sport climbers. Forty three variables were scrutinised, namely somatic characteristics, specific physical fitness, coordination abilities, aerobic and anaerobic power, technical and tactical skills, mental characteristics, as well as 2 variables describing the climber’s performance in the OS (Max OS) and RP style (Max RP). The results show that for training effectiveness of advanced climbers to be thoroughly analysed and examined, tests assessing their physical, technical and mental characteristics are necessary. The three sets of variables used in this study explained the structure of performance similarly, but not identically (in 38, 33 and 25%, respectively). They were also complementary to around 30% of the variance. The overall performance capacity of a sport rock climber (Max OS and Max RP) was also evaluated in the study. The canonical weights of the dominant first canonical root were 0.554 and 0.512 for Max OS and Max RP, respectively. Despite the differences between the two styles of climbing, seven variables – the maximal relative strength of the fingers (canonical weight = 0.490), mental endurance (one of scales : The Formal Characteristics of Behaviour–Temperament Inventory (FCB–TI; Strelau and Zawadzki, 1995)) (−0.410), climbing technique (0.370), isometric endurance of the fingers (0.340), the number of errors in the complex reaction time test (−0.319), the ape index (−0.319) and oxygen uptake during arm work at the anaerobic threshold (0.254) were found to explain 77% of performance capacity common to the two styles.

Clay-shoveler’s Fracture During Indoor Rock Climbing

Indoor rock climbing is becoming more popular for people of all ages. Despite the tremendous interest in this competitive sport, participants are made aware of the dangers associated with participating. The authors present the first reported case of a clay-shoveler's fracture at the T1 spinous process during indoor rock climbing. They describe the management and natural history of this fracture and discuss management strategies for this increasingly popular recreational sport.A 14-year-old competitive indoor rock climber presented with acute-onset midline thoracic pain at T1 while indoor rock climbing. He reported no recent falls or trauma but stated that the pain came on abruptly while rock climbing. On examination, he was neurologically intact except for significant tenderness to palpation at the T1 spinous process. Magnetic resonance imaging demonstrated a minimally displaced T1 spinous process fracture with evidence of significant surrounding muscular edema, suggesting an acute fracture. He was treated conservatively with anti-inflammatory drugs, complete climbing restriction, and rest. He continued to have focal upper back pain at the level of the fracture over the next 4 months. He was unable to climb for 4 months until his pain resolved after conservative treatment of climbing restriction, pain control, and rest.This is the first documented case of a clay-shoveler's fracture sustained in a pediatric patient directly attributable to indoor rock climbing.

Resilience and the Narratives of Parents of Adults with Autism Spectrum Disorders

Resilience and the Narratives of Parents of Adults with Autism Spectrum Disorders Nabil Hassan El-Ghoroury The prevalence of autism spectrum disorders (ASDs) is on the rise; the most recent report from the Autism and Developmental Disabilities Monitoring Network (2012) indicated a prevalence of ASDs of one in 88 children. This was a 78% increase from reported prevalence rates in 2002, when the rate was one in 150. Major health organizations have been emphasizing the importance of early identification (Johnson, Myers, & Council on Children with Disabilities, 2007) to increase access to early intervention services, which are most effective when implemented before age three (Rogers & Vismara, 2008). The bulk of autism research has been focused on children, particularly young children. Given the growing identification and prevalence of ASDs, there will be more and more adolescents and adults with ASDs in the near and long term future. This issue of Narrative Inquiries in Bioethics is important because of its focus on an underrepresented area in the literature. The constraints of current health care delivery systems do not allow for providers to spend significant amounts of time with their patients. Furthermore, hearing first person narratives can be valuable by informing health care professionals about the experiences that parents (and by extension, the individual with an ASD) have experienced. As a licensed clinical psychologist with over two decades of experience with children, adolescents, and adults with ASDs in a variety of settings, I have a professional perspective on autism. As the older brother of Omar, a 38–year–old adult male with autistic disorder, I also have a lifetime of personal experiences of autism. As long as I can remember, I have had a brother with autism. I hope this unique perspective as both a behavioral health care provider and a family member of an adult with an ASD allows me to comment on these narratives in a thoughtful manner. Seeing Beyond Autism: Multiple Identities Many parents commented on how their child was more than just autism or Asperger’s; they reflected on the strengths, unique experiences, and perspectives of their child. The narratives are rich in their desire to see the whole being of their children. Anonymous One writes: Another thing, and I think every parent will agree with this—teachers, school staff, health care industry staff, doctors and every one that comes into contact with an ASD individual—take the time to get to know them. It may be difficult and some may appear non–caring and rude. You must overlook this and look to the person underneath. They are great people. They have been through stuff and it means so much to them. Like I said—parents, you know this. Please remember it when times get tough. [End Page 189] Mark Osteen wrote about his son Cameron as they were making the decision to place their son in a residential placement: “I felt proud. It was like he was being recruited for college. And I am just as proud of him, and love him just as much, as if he were. What I hate is talking only about his ‘disability.’ I hope they see his good qualities. How smart he is. How funny he is. How charming he is. How strong he is.” Understanding the multiple identities of individuals with ASDs is important for parents so that they are not solely focused on the autism diagnosis. The talents and skills of the young adults described are remarkable. Anonymous One’s son David became a computer engineer at 13, reportedly “he was the youngest person in the United States to do so at such a young age.” Lori Centineo’s son Nathaniel is a poet, a rock climber, and skilled at sailing. Virginia Clapp’s son Nathaniel is a “chess genius”, a talented juggler “with the ability to juggle seven balls, which he told me is ‘insanity in a nutshell’,” and an origami expert. David McDonald’s nephew grew from a teenager who spoke only 30 words to speaking thousands of words and ultimately becoming a world traveler. Anonymous Four’s son Sam is “practically an expert” in earth sciences. Seeing beyond the autism is not always easy. Given the serious challenges...

Surgical Cricothyrotomy in the Wilderness: A Case Report

Although the surgical cricothyrotomy procedure is used on combat casualties in the most challenging environments, we are unaware of any published report in the United States of surgical cricothyrotomy performed in a wilderness recreational setting. We describe a 31-year-old male rock climber who fell 24.4 m (80 feet), sustaining serious injuries and requiring rescue from the base of the cliff by a cave/cliff rescue team. Ultimately, a surgical cricothyrotomy proved necessary because of ongoing oropharyngeal bleeding, facial fractures creating an unstable airway, and the need to place the patient in the litter. The patient survived a prolonged and arduous evacuation. This report presents the management of the patient during the rescue and the challenges faced by the rescue team physician and others that led to the decision to perform an improvised surgical cricothyrotomy.

Dupuytren’s disease in a rock climber with an unaffected identical twin

Long-term follow-up of Dupuytren disease after injection of triamcinolone acetonide in Chinese patients in Taiwan

Rupture atypique d’un tendon fléchisseur profond chez un grimpeur

Injuries of the flexor pulleys are common in rock climbers. Ruptures of the flexor profundus tendons are less common and take place almost exclusively in zone I at the level of the distal phalangeal insertion of the tendon. We report the case of a 48years old rock climber who sustained an uncommon complete rupture of the flexor profundus tendon of the long finger during a monodigital grip. The tear was localized in zone III, immediately distal to the distal edge of the carpal tunnel. Tendon repair by direct suture followed by early active mobilization led to a satisfactory result. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first description of this type of injury in a rock climber.

Climbing for Credit

Climbing is a sport, a hobby, and metaphor for life's lessons. A climbing course for undergraduate students was designed on the basis of the principles of rock climber and educator Kurt Hahn, who transferred lessons learned from physical activity into lessons for life and whose philosophy underpins the Outward Bound program. Hahn's 10 principles for sound mind-body-spirit are described.

Survival following a vertical free fall from 300 feet: The crucial role of body position to impact surface

We report the case of a 28-year old rock climber who survived an "unsurvivable" injury consisting of a vertical free fall from 300 feet onto a solid rock surface. The trauma mechanism and injury kinetics are analyzed, with a particular focus on the relevance of body positioning to ground surface at the time of impact. The role of early patient transfer to a level 1 trauma center, and "damage control" management protocols for avoiding delayed morbidity and mortality in this critically injured patient are discussed.

Bilateral Absence of the A3 Pulleys in a Rock Climber

The patient was an 18-year-old male rock climber who was referred to a hand surgeon with a chief complaint of worsening pain in the proximal phalanx of his right middle finger. Past surgical history for the patient included surgical reconstruction of the A2 and A3 pulleys of the left middle finger 2 years prior, following a finger injury that occurred while rock climbing. While the A2 pulley was ruptured, the A3 pulley was absent and replaced by loose fibrous connective tissue. Magnetic resonance imaging was ordered, which demonstrated findings consistent with an absent A3 pulley of the right middle finger. Intraoperatively, these findings were confirmed and surgical reconstruction was performed. J Orthop Sports Phys Ther 2011;41(5):366. doi:10.2519/jospt.2011.0411

Treatment of a Symptomatic Forearm Muscle Herniation With a Mesh Graft

Symptomatic muscle herniations are an unusual cause of upper extremity pain in the athlete that is rarely reported in the literature. Out of 18 reported cases of upper extremity herniations, only 3 were caused by strenuous exertion. This article describes a successful repair of a 21-year-old rock climber’s ventral forearm herniation with polypropylene mesh.

Sea kayakers at the margins: the liminoid character of contemporary adventures

The ethnographic data considered here were gathered over a seven‐month period on and around the Isle of Anglesey in North Wales. The data were partly collected during sea kayaking courses at a commercial outdoor centre and also during more informal outings with independent members of a sea kayaking club. Material recorded on accompanied journeys, during participation on group courses and on expeditions was triangulated with notes from semi‐structured interviews and spontaneous discussions. The notions of marginal danger and of apparently approaching the ‘edge’ are key characteristics of the late‐modern forms of adventurous leisure. It is proposed that, rather like the strange vertical world of the rock climber or the subterranean one of the potholer, the sea kayakers’ environment is an alien, marginal, liminoid world. The ocean is not the natural territory of human beings. The kayakers move from the land to the sea and from comfort to hardship, from security to uncertainty, passivity to commitment and from action governed via ocular experience to total bodily/sensual immersion. Importantly, these shared experiences provide belonging in the ecstatic, temporary, Dionysiac communities who meet in these marginal places and situations in search of adventure and escape. Danger is but a small part of the meaning of such activity; it is the liminoid experience that is of key importance to participants.

Coracoid Impingement Syndrome Due to Intensive Rock Climbing Training

Overuse and acute injuries to the upper body are common in rock climbing. Such injuries primarily affect the fingers; but shoulder problems are increasingly common, especially among more experienced and older climbers who climb at a high ability level. Such shoulder problems are often due to subacromial impingement, shoulder dislocations with bankart lesions, hyperlaxity, SLAP lesions or irritations of the long biceps tendon. In contrast to these known conditions, we describe a case of an ambitious female rock climber who trained intensively and developed a coracoid impingement caused by hypertrophied subscapularis tendon and muscle following sport-specific training. Diagnosis was made through clinical evaluation and confirmed by magnetic resonance tomography. Coracoid impingement syndrome is a less common cause of shoulder pain and occurs when the subscapularis tendon impinges between the coracoid and the lesser tuberosity of the humerus. The patient was treated successfully with a conservative therapy and returned to full activity within 6 weeks.

Comparisons of Bone Mineral Density and Bone Quality in Adult Rock Climbers, Resistance-Trained Men, and Untrained Men

The nature of muscular contractions and episodes of impact loading during technical rock climbing are often varied and complex, and the resulting effects on bone health are unclear. The purpose of this study was to compare total body, lumbar spine, proximal femur, and forearm areal bone mineral density (aBMD) and tibia and forearm bone quality in male rock climbers (RC) (n = 15), resistance trained men (RT) (n = 16), and untrained male controls (CTR) (n = 16). Total body, anteroposterior (AP) lumbar spine, proximal femur, and forearm aBMD and body composition were measured using dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) (Lunar Prodigy, v. 10.50.086; GE Healthcare, Waukesha, Wisconsin, U.S.A.). Volumetric BMD (vBMD), bone content, bone area, and muscle cross-sectional area (MCSA) of the tibia and forearm were measured using pQCT (peripheral quantitative computed tomography; Stratec XCT 3000, Pforzheim, Germany). No significant group differences were seen in bone-free lean body mass. CTR had significantly (p < 0.05) greater body fat % than RC and RT and significantly (p < 0.05) greater fat mass than RC. Lumbar spine and femoral neck aBMD were significantly (p < 0.05) greater in RT compared to both RC and CTR. RC had significantly (p < 0.05) lower aBMD at the 33% radius site than CTR. Forearm MCSA was significantly (p < 0.05) lower in CTR than in the other groups. No significant differences were seen between groups for vBMD or bone area of the tibia and forearm. In conclusion, resistance-trained men had higher bone density at the central skeletal sites than rock climbers; however, bone quality variables of the peripheral limbs were similar in rock climber and resistance-trained groups.

Traumatic correction of Linburg–Comstock anomaly: a case report

Linburg-Comstock anomaly describes an anatomical variant of flexor tendons of the hand. Flexor pollicis longus (FPL) sends a connecting tendon to flexor digitorum profundus (FDP), causing simultaneous flexion at the distal interphalangeal joint (DIPJ) of the index finger when the interphalangeal joint (IPJ) of the thumb is flexed. Epidemiological studies have revealed a unilateral prevalence as high as 31% of individuals; however, the condition rarely causes symptoms. The anomaly can present with a restrictive flexor tenosynovitis, requiring explorative surgery to confirm the diagnosis and disconnection of the anomalous tendon slip to relieve symptoms. We describe the case of a rock climber who suffered a forced extension injury to the DIPJ of the right index finger, resulting in traumatic rupture of his anomalous FPL-FDP connecting tendon. This is the first reported case of rupture of a Linburg-Comstock anomaly. Through rupture of this anomalous tendon, the patient can be viewed as having corrected his aberrant tendon to conform with the more prevalent anatomical configuration and function. We identified the rupture using dynamic ultrasound of the wrist; to our knowledge, this technique has not been described previously in the literature. We recommend the use of this imaging modality to confirm diagnosis, thus avoiding explorative surgery.