Rip Channel Research Articles

The Roles of Bathymetry and Waves in Rip‐Channel Dynamics

AbstractThe behavior and predictability of rip currents (strong, wave‐driven offshore‐directed surfzone currents) have been studied for decades. However, few studies have examined the effects of rip channel morphology on the rip generation or have compared morphodynamic models with observations. Here, simulations conducted with the numerical morphodynamic model MIKE21 reproduce observed trends in flows and bathymetric evolution for two channels dredged across a nearshore sandbar and terrace on an ocean beach near Duck, NC, USA. Channel dimensions, wave conditions, and flows differed between the two cases. In one case, a strong rip current was driven by moderate height, near‐normally incident waves over an approximately 1‐m deep channel with relatively little bathymetric evolution. In the other case, no rip was generated by the large, near‐normally incident waves over the shallower (∼0.5 m) channel, and the channel migrated in the direction of the mean flow and eventually filled in. The model simulated the flow directions, the generation (or not) of rip currents, and the morphological evolution of the channels reasonably well. Model simulations were then conducted for different combinations of the two channel geometries and two wave conditions to examine the relative importance of the waves and morphology to the rip current evolution. The different bathymetries were the dominant factor controlling the flow, whereas both the initial morphology and wave conditions were important for channel evolution. In addition, channel dimensions affected the spatial distribution of rip current forcings and the relative importance of terms.

Flow Characteristics of the Rip Current System near a Shore-Normal Structure with Regular Waves

Rip currents are the strong narrow seaward current produced by waves breaking on the coast. Of the many types of rip currents, the present study investigates, experimentally and numerically, the rip current system produced by the wave reflection on a finite-length shore-normal structure (corresponding to groin, jetty and headland in a real-word environment) with strong wave reflection strength. The incident wave condition of an obliquely propagating monochromatic surface gravity wave is considered for the bottom topographies of planar and barred beaches without or with a rip channel. The corresponding laboratory experiment was conducted and used to validate the numerical model. A set of higher order Boussinesq equations is used to reproduce the experimental observation and produce the results for the related prototype cases, with the latter considering more factors which may influence the formation and evolution of rip current flow patterns. The resulting rip current system contains two parts: the node rips formed due to the presence of the longshore standing wave in the wave reflection field and the deflection rip formed due to the interaction between the incoming longshore current and the reflection wave field mentioned above. A new formation mechanism of the deflection rip has been proposed, i.e., the deflection rip is formed by the meeting and then deflection of the longshore current and lateral flow. The effects of different wave reflection strengths of the structure, wave incident angles and bathymetric conditions on the pattern and flow volume of the deflection rip are also studied.

Identifying Rip Channels Along RK Beach, Visakhapatnam Using Video and Satellite Imagery Analysis

Identifying Rip Channels Along RK Beach, Visakhapatnam Using Video and Satellite Imagery Analysis

Monitoring Short-Term Morphobathymetric Change of Nearshore Seafloor Using Drone-Based Multispectral Imagery

Short-term changes in shallow bathymetry affect the coastal zone, and therefore their monitoring is an essential task in coastal planning projects. This study provides a novel approach for monitoring shallow bathymetry changes based on drone multispectral imagery. Particularly, we apply a shallow water inversion algorithm on two composite multispectral datasets, being acquired five months apart in a small Mediterranean sandy embayment (Chania, Greece). Initially, we perform radiometric corrections using proprietary software, and following that we combine the bands from standard and multispectral cameras, resulting in a six-band composite image suitable for applying the shallow water inversion algorithm. Bathymetry inversion results showed good correlation and low errors (<0.3 m) with sonar measurements collected with an uncrewed surface vehicle (USV). Bathymetry maps and true-color orthomosaics assist in identifying morphobathymetric features representing crescentic bars with rip channel systems. The temporal bathymetry and true-color data reveal important erosional and depositional patterns, which were developed under the impact of winter storms. Furthermore, bathymetric profiles show that the crescentic bar appears to migrate across and along-shore over the 5-months period. Drone-based multispectral imagery proves to be an important and cost-effective tool for shallow seafloor mapping and monitoring when it is combined with shallow water analytical models.

Morphodynamics of wave-dominated beaches

AbstractWave-dominated sandy beaches are highly valued by societies and are amongst the world’s most energetic and dynamic environments. On wave-dominated beaches with unlimited sand supply and limited influence of tide and geology, beach change has long been conceptualised in the morphodynamic framework of Wright and Short (1984). Such framework describes the occurrence of beach types based on wave conditions and sediment characteristics across the complete reflective–dissipative spectrum. Building on theoretical work, field/laboratory measurements and monitoring programmes, the physical mechanisms underpinning this morphodynamic framework have been progressively unravelled. Cross-shore morphological changes are primarily controlled by equilibrium and beach memory principles with below (above) average wave conditions driving down-state (up-state) transitions associated with onshore (offshore) sediment transport. Such cross-shore behaviour mostly reflects the imbalance between the onshore-directed sediment transport driven by wave nonlinearities and the offshore-directed sediment transport driven by the undertow. Self-organised morphological instabilities resulting from different positive feedback mechanisms are primarily responsible for alongshore morphological variability and the generation of rhythmic morphological features, such as crescentic bars, rip channels and beach cusps. Critically, wave climate and changes in wave regimes are key in driving the coupled cross-shore and longshore behaviour that ultimately explains modal beach state and frequency-response characteristics of beach morphological time series.

Video-Based Nearshore Bathymetric Inversion on a Geologically Constrained Mesotidal Beach during Storm Events

Although geologically constrained sandy beaches are ubiquitous along wave-exposed coasts, there is still a limited understanding of their morphological response, particularly under storm conditions, which is mainly due to a critical lack of nearshore bathymetry observations. This paper examines the potential to derive bathymetries from video imagery under challenging wave conditions in order to investigate headland control on morphological beach response. For this purpose, a video-based linear depth inversion algorithm is applied to three consecutive weeks of frames collected during daylight hours from a single fixed camera located at La Petite Chambre d’Amour beach (Anglet, SW France). Video-derived bathymetries are compared against in situ topo-bathymetric surveys carried out at the beginning and end of the field experiment in order to assess the performance of the bathymetric estimates. The results show that the rates of accretion/erosion within the surf zone are strongly influenced by the headland, whereas the beach morphological response can be classified into three main regimes depending on the angle of wave incidence θp: (1) under deflection configuration (θp>0°), the alongshore sediment transport was trapped at the updrift side of the headland, promoting sand accretion. (2) Under shadowed configuration (θp<0°), the interruption of the longshore current drove a deficit of sand supply at the downdrift side of the headland, leading to an overall erosion in the surf zone. (3) Under shore-normal configuration (θp=0°), rip channels developed, and up-state beach transition was observed. A comparison between video-derived bathymetries and surveys shows an overall root mean square error (RMSE) around 0.49 to 0.57 m with a bias ranging between −0.36 and −0.29 m. The results show that video-derived bathymetries can provide new insight into the morphological change driven by storm events. The combination of such inferred bathymetry with video-derived surface current data is discussed, showing great potential to address the coupled morphodynamics system under time-varying wave conditions.

Subaerial and upper-shoreface morphodynamics of a highly-dynamic enclosed beach in NW Baja California

Estimating sediment budget is a challenge that requires understanding the morphological relationship between the subaerial beach and the upper and lower shoreface. Based on a unique dataset of monthly measured topographic and bathymetric measurements, this study describes the morphodynamics of the subaerial and subtidal sections of a highly-dynamic beach over a 5-year period (2015–2020). Typically, the beach presents a longshore bar trough (LBT) state at the end of the winter, driven by net offshore sediment transport. The nearshore morphology evolves into more reflective states (rhythmic bar beach, RBB; transverse bar rip, TBR; and low tide terrace, LTT) driven by onshore sediment transport when the incident wave-energy decreases over the spring and summer. Seasonal variations of the incident wave-energy resulted in large subaerial-subtidal exchanges of sediment (200–300 m3 m−1), but these exchanges were an order of magnitude smaller in yearly scales. Subaerial and upper-shoreface morphological changes varied alongshore. Larger variations existed in the south, influenced by persistent rip channels. Instead, alongshore processes resulting from changes in wave direction may control the morphodynamics in the center and north. The subtidal section in north and center gained significant amount of sand (300 m3 m−1) during high-energy conditions, which contributed to a net annual gain of 60 m3 m−1. The origin of that sediment is currently unknown, it could have bypassed from an adjacent beach, shifted alongshore or inputted from the lower shoreface deeper than the depth of closure. This research shows the presence of very large monthly-to-seasonal total volume fluctuations relative to net annual or multi-annual changes, and highlights that comparatively small additions to the annual sediment budget could potentially contribute to the long-term stability of the beach.

Identifying Rip Channels Along RK Beach, Visakhapatnam Using Video and Satellite Imagery Analysis

Identifying Rip Channels Along RK Beach, Visakhapatnam Using Video and Satellite Imagery Analysis

Estimation of rip density on intermediate beaches using an extreme learning machine model

Rip currents are one of the most well-known and risky flows in coastal areas, and given the limitations and difficulties in field data collection, predicting the varied behavior of these flows is of particular importance. In this study, based on the design of the intermediate beaches, the wave and bed parameters in the coastal zone were extracted as dimensionless ratios of Froude number, wave height, surf zone width and rip channel width by Mike 21/3 numerical model, and were used as input for different approaches of extreme learning machine (ELM) and artificial neural network (ANN). Then, while examining the different beach states over time, the optimum values for statistical criteria in different models were investigated and compared. Next, the effect of each of the available parameters on the rip density was considered, and the results obtained by different models in different climates of the waves were compared with the field results, which showed high level of agreement. The main results of the study revealed that the speed of implementation of different test, training and validation phases in ELM model was 1.5 times faster than ANN model on average. Furthermore, it was shown that the different percentages of the rip density values observed by the numerical model and predicted by different methods of the ELM model were always lower than those of the ANN model. Also, the dispersion of the predicted data by different models of the extreme learning machine, especially hierarchical extreme learning machine (HELM), was less than the dispersion of the data obtained by the other models, which makes the HELM model superior to other soft computing methods in predicting the rip density on intermediate beaches.

Rip current and channel detection using surfcams and optical flow

Rip currents are a common, naturally occurring surf-zone hazard that pose a risk to beach patrons. This study presents a remote-sensing-based algorithm to detect rip currents and rip channels. Optical flow-based computer vision methods are implemented to analyze large data sets and the automatic detection of these features. Surfcam video was collected from dissipative (La Jolla, CA), intermediate (Long Beach, NY), and reflective beaches (Pensacola Beach, FL) to demonstrate the efficacy of the methods. A clustering technique using the dominant wave period was implemented to transition from detected offshore movements to rip currents. The methods presented in this paper were used to detect 20,327 rip currents and 1,100 rip channels. The average accuracy for rip current and rip channel detection was 67.3% and 96.2%, respectively. The remote-sensing-based detection methods can be adapted for use on other video-based equipment and, with additional modifications, can be implemented in an operational capacity.

Observation of nearshore crescentic sandbar formation during storm wave conditions using satellite images and video monitoring data

Crescentic nearshore sandbars (CNSBs) that are observed in the shallow waters (< 10 m) of sandy beaches are important for understanding coastal dynamics because of their strong interaction with nearshore circulation. However, their formation, originating from shore-parallel straight nearshore sandbars (SNSBs), has rarely been observed in the field because their occurrence is typically short (less than a week). In this study, a process in which a nearly SNSB changed into a fully developed CNSB was observed using satellite images, field surveys, and video monitoring data at a sandy beach in South Korea. Freely available Sentinel-2 satellite images and the bathymetry data measured by echosounders were used to find out formation of an SNSB system after attack of Typhoon Tapah in September 2019 and that the SNSB changed to a CNSB in February 2020. The process was narrowed down using video monitoring data and hydrodynamic measurements, observing that two storm waves with maximum wave heights of >3 m developed in the site over a one-month period in January 2020 when the CNSB formed. The first storm wave had a sharp peak wave height that reached ~5 m and lasted ~2 days. The second storm wave had lower wave energy but several peak waves of ~4 m height and a total storm period of ~6 days. During both storm periods, the infragravity wave energy increased and strong (>0.5 m/s) offshore and longshore (northwest) currents developed for ~1 day and ~ 3 days for the first and second storm respectively. The results from video monitoring data show that a nearly developed SNSB system transformed into a weakly developed CNSB system after the first storm when alongshore variability on the nearly SNSB was intensified to become horns and bays of the weak CNSB. During the second storm, the CNSB system fully developed as the horns moved further onshore and the bays further offshore shaping the clear horn and bay pattern. This indicates that positive feedback between the flows and sediments played a key role for the formation of the CNSB and, therefore, the self-organization mechanism might be appropriate to describe the process during the two storm periods. Specifically, the high infragravity wave energy and strong quasi-steady currents were important because they could trigger the development of rip channels during the first storm whereas the channels were further strengthened by the long consistency of currents during the second storm.

Short communication: evidence for geologic control of rip channels along Prince Edward Island, Canada

ABSTRACT Rip currents can move unsuspecting swimmers offshore rapidly and represent a significant risk to beach users worldwide, including along the northern coast of Prince Edward Island (PEI), Canada. Although many rip currents are ephemeral and/or spatially variable in response to changes in the nearshore bar morphology and wave and tidal forcing, it is possible for rip channels to be geologically controlled and quasi-permanent in morphology, location, and flow. Several rip channels along the northern coast of PEI appear in the same location from year to year and correspond to elongated lakes, rivers, or swales behind the modern coastal dune system. Given their persistent location and alignment with back dune hydrology, ground-penetrating radar surveys were collected along Brackley and Cavendish Beaches in July 2019 to determine whether persistent rip channels are associated with now-buried river channels extending beneath the modern dunes and continuing offshore. Strong reflectors similar to V-shaped river valleys are present in alongshore transects at both beaches. These infilled valleys align with back-dune hydrology and persistent rip channels, suggesting modern rip channels are structurally controlled and maintained by antecedent geology. This link provides important guidance to beach access management and the distribution of lifesaving strategies along the affected beaches.

Numerical study of rip currents interlaced with multichannel sandbars

Rip currents have become one of the primary coastal hazards globally. In the present work, the dynamics of a multichannel rip system are revealed by a group of numerical simulations over truncated sandbar bathymetry under varying wave conditions. It is found that increasing wave height may disperse rip currents due to strong wave-current shear in opposite directions and the resulting microbreaking, which is contrary to the widely accepted proportional theory. The pump-feed phenomenon between adjacent channels shows that rip currents might be absent in small channels when water flows through neighboring broader pathways. Rip currents are indicated highly sensitive to wave direction and deflect into undulant alongshore currents around sandbars as waves deviate from normal incidence. The decay of rip currents with wave angle did not show a clear dependence on channel width, which was found in previous studies. Vortices usually appear near bar-channel edges and by sides of rip currents. The magnitude of the vortex is not explicitly related to the wave height but increases with the wave angle. The water setup shoreward by sandbars substantially increases with wave angle, while the surface depression over rip channels is less observed. This indicates a lower pressure differential to drive feeder flows toward the channels and explains why rip currents cannot persist when incident waves become slightly oblique.

Beach State Recognition Using Argus Imagery and Convolutional Neural Networks

Nearshore morphology is a key driver in wave breaking and the resulting nearshore circulation, recreational safety, and nutrient dispersion. Morphology persists within the nearshore in specific shapes that can be classified into equilibrium states. Equilibrium states convey qualitative information about bathymetry and relevant physical processes. While nearshore bathymetry is a challenge to collect, much information about the underlying bathymetry can be gained from remote sensing of the surfzone. This study presents a new method to automatically classify beach state from Argus daytimexposure imagery using a machine learning technique called convolutional neural networks (CNNs). The CNN processed imagery from two locations: Narrabeen, New South Wales, Australia and Duck, North Carolina, USA. Three different CNN models are examined, one trained at Narrabeen, one at Duck, and one trained at both locations. Each model was tested at the location where it was trained in a self-test, and the single-beach models were tested at the location where it was not trained in a transfer-test. For the self-tests, skill (as measured by the F-score) was comparable to expert agreement (CNN F-values at Duck = 0.80 and Narrabeen = 0.59). For the transfer-tests, the CNN model skill was reduced by 24–48%, suggesting the algorithm requires additional local data to improve transferability performance. Transferability tests showed that comparable F-scores (within 10%) to the self-trained cases can be achieved at both locations when at least 25% of the training data is from each site. This suggests that if applied to additional locations, a CNN model trained at one location may be skillful at new sites with limited new imagery data needed. Finally, a CNN visualization technique (Guided-Grad-CAM) confirmed that the CNN determined classifications using image regions (e.g., incised rip channels, terraces) that were consistent with beach state labelling rules.

Wave and Tide Controls on Rip Current Activity and Drowning Incidents in Southwest France

Castelle, B.; Scott, T.; Brander, R.W.; McCarroll, R.J.; Tellier, E.; de Korte, E.; Tackuy, L.; Robinet, A.; Simonnet, B. and Salmi, L.-R., 2020. Wave and tide controls on rip current activity and drowning incidents in Southwest France. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 769–774. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.The meso-macrotidal sandy surf beaches of southwest France are a popular destination visited by millions of tourists each summer, who potentially expose themselves to surf zone hazards and particularly to rip currents flowing through the inner-bar rip channels. 281 non-fatal and fatal drowning incidents, most of them caused by rip currents, recorded by lifeguards during the summer 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and hindcast wave and tide data. Results show that drownings occur disproportionally near neap low tide, under shore-normal incident waves and average to above-average height and period, with drowning incidents tending to occur in clusters with particular days of mass incidents. An XBeach model is implemented on measured rip-channelled bathymetries to address the influence of offshore wave conditions and tidal elevation on rip flow dynamics and resulting hazard. Simulations show that rip flow increases with increasing wave height, increasing wave period and increasingly shore-normal incidence, which is consistent with the increased number of drowning incidents for such conditions. Although more incidents also tend to occur on warm sunny days with light winds, presumably driving more exposure to the rip current hazard, this highlights the dominance of the physical hazard on the life risk along this stretch of coast.

User's Perceptions about Rip Currents and Their Specific Management Approaches at a Densely Occupied Urban Beach

Silva-Cavalcanti, J.S.; Silva, A. R.L; Silva, J.C.P; Araújo, M.C.B; Maragotto, M.G., and Costa, M.F., 2020. User's perceptions abourt rip currents and their specific management approaches at a densely occupied urban beach. In: Malvárez, G. and Navas, F. (eds.), Global Coastal Issues of 2020. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 95, pp. 953-957. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.This research aimed to analyze the beach user`s perceptions about rip currents and their specific management approaches at a densely occupied urban beach. Semi-structured questionnaires (N = 216) inquired beach users about use, rip currents knowledge and other hazards. When the beach user's accepted to respond the inquire, they signed an Informed Consent Form. In the 189 valid interviews, females (68%) go to Pina and Boa Viagem beaches more often than males (32%). The choice of the beach part where the beach user will remain was based on easy access (75%), security (13%) and < 6% for fashionable sites, beverages and snacks availability. Rip currents identification is poor, and many are unaware of the meaning of beach safety flags (34%). Around 35% of beach users affirmed not knowing the meaning of the red flags. According to beach users, lifeguards designate areas that are safe for bathing using a pair of red flags. So, they believed that this flag means the area is patrolled by lifeguards, and therefore safer. Other beach users associated red flags to shark attacks (66%). Beach users respondents were asked which area they thought was the safest place to swim and they selected rip channels as the safest place to swim. Beach users declared they know how to swim (71%), however with a swimming ability of < 25 m (84,5%). Information about rip currents is an essential component in developing interventions aimed at reducing the risk of drowning events. Specific management approaches (e.g. red flags) need to focus on debunking rip current myths, to improve understanding of safe swimming areas. The use of flags to indicate the occurrence of rip currents was a partially effective measure of beach management aiming at the prevention of drowning or shark attacks due to beach user's reduced knowledge about rip currents in general and flags meaning.

Emerging crescentic patterns in modelled double sandbar systems under normally incident waves

Abstract. Double sandbar systems often characterize the surf zone of wave-dominated beaches and display a variety of poorly explained spatial configurations. Here, we explore the morphodynamic stability of double-barred beaches using a model based on linear stability analysis. Surf zone hydrodynamics are described by coupling depth and wave-averaged conservation of mass and momentum with the wave energy and phase equations, including roller dynamics. A simplified sediment transport formulation relates flow to seabed changes. Under normal wave incidence, an alongshore uniform coast with a cross-shore profile characterized by the presence of two sandbars can be unstable, thereby resulting in the development of crescentic and/or rip channel patterns. Our study demonstrates that sandbar coupling can be either in phase (highs and lows of both sandbars are at the same alongshore position) or out of phase (highs and lows of one sandbar correspond to lows and highs of the other sandbar). In line with observations, results of simulations show a large variability in the possible emerging bottom patterns. Our analysis indicates that modes of which the amplitude of the inner sandbar perturbation is larger than that of the outer sandbar are dominant for large height–depth differences between the two sandbar crests and small offshore wave heights. Patterns related to the outer sandbar dominate for small values of the difference in sandbar depth. For intermediate differences between the two sandbar depths, patterns on both longshore bars appear to be fully coupled (similar growth rates and strongly correlated pattern shapes). For relatively large waves and large depth over the outer sandbar, patterns can also develop close to the shoreline and/or inner surf zone together with patterns in the inner or outer sandbar.

Characteristics and context of high-energy, tidally modulated, barred shoreface deposits: Kimmeridgian–Tithonian sandstones, Weald Basin, southern U.K. and northern France

ABSTRACTThe influence of tides on the sedimentology of wave-dominated shorefaces has been emphasized in recent studies of modern shorelines and related facies models, but few ancient examples have been reported to date. Herein, we use a case study from the stratigraphic record to develop a revised facies model and predictive spatio-temporal framework for high-energy, tidally modulated, wave-dominated, barred shorefaces.Kimmeridgian–Tithonian shallow-marine sandstones in the Weald Basin (southern England and northern France) occur as a series of laterally extensive tongues that are 5–24 m thick. Each tongue coarsens upward in its lower part and fines upward in its upper part. The lower part of each upward-coarsening succession consists of variably stacked, hummocky cross-stratified, very fine- to fine-grained sandstone beds and mudstone interbeds that are moderately to intensely bioturbated by a mixed Skolithos and Cruziana Ichnofacies. This lower part of the succession is interpreted to record deposition on the subtidal lower shoreface, between effective storm wave base and fairweather wave base. The upper part of each upward-coarsening succession comprises cross-bedded, medium- to coarse-grained sandstones that are pervasively intercalated with mudstone-draped, wave-rippled surfaces (including interference ripples) which mantle the erosional bases of trough cross-sets. Bioturbation is patchy, and constitutes a low-diversity Skolithos Ichnofacies. Cross-bedded sandstones are arranged into cosets superimposed on steeply dipping (up to 10°) clinoforms that dip offshore and alongshore, and extend through the succession. These deposits are interpreted to record shallow subtidal and intertidal bars on the upper shoreface, which likely contained laterally migrating rip channels or formed part of a spit. The lower, upward-coarsening part of each sandstone tongue represents an upward-shallowing, regressive shoreface succession in which the internal bedding of upper-shoreface sandstones was modulated by tidal changes in water depth. The upper, upward-fining part of each sandstone tongue typically comprises an erosionally based bioclastic lag overlain by subtidal lower-shoreface deposits, and constitutes an upward-deepening succession developed during transgression.Regressive–transgressive sandstone tongues fringe the northeastern margin of the basin, which was exposed to an energetic wave climate driven by westerly and southwesterly winds with a fetch of 200–600 km. The high tidal range interpreted from the shoreface sandstone tongues is attributed to resonant amplification in a broad (150–200 km), shallow (18–33 m) embayment as the tidal wave propagated from the Tethys Ocean into the adjacent intracratonic Laurasian Seaway, of which the Weald Basin was a part.

Environmental controls on surf zone injuries on high-energy beaches

Abstract. The two primary causes of surf zone injuries (SZIs) worldwide, including fatal drowning and severe spinal injuries, are rip currents (rips) and shore-break waves. SZIs also result from surfing and bodyboarding activity. In this paper we address the primary environmental controls on SZIs along the high-energy meso–macro-tidal surf beach coast of southwestern France. A total of 2523 SZIs recorded by lifeguards over 186 sample days during the summers of 2007, 2009 and 2015 were combined with measured and/or hindcast weather, wave, tide, and beach morphology data. All SZIs occurred disproportionately on warm sunny days with low wind, likely because of increased beachgoer numbers and hazard exposure. Relationships were strongest for shore-break- and rip-related SZIs and weakest for surfing-related SZIs, the latter being also unaffected by tidal stage or range. Therefore, the analysis focused on bathers. More shore-break-related SZIs occur during shore-normal incident waves with average to below-average wave height (significant wave height, Hs = 0.75–1.5 m) and around higher water levels and large tide ranges when waves break on the steepest section of the beach. In contrast, more rip-related drownings occur near neap low tide, coinciding with maximised channel rip flow activity, under shore-normal incident waves with Hs &gt;1.25 m and mean wave periods longer than 5 s. Additional drowning incidents occurred at spring high tide, presumably due to small-scale swash rips. The composite wave and tide parameters proposed by Scott et al. (2014) are key controlling factors determining SZI occurrence, although the risk ranges are not necessarily transferable to all sites. Summer beach and surf zone morphology is interannually highly variable, which is critical to SZI patterns. The upper beach slope can vary from 0.06 to 0.18 between summers, resulting in low and high shore-break-related SZIs, respectively. Summers with coast-wide highly (weakly) developed rip channels also result in widespread (scarce) rip-related drowning incidents. With life risk defined in terms of the number of people exposed to life threatening hazards at a beach, the ability of morphodynamic models to simulate primary beach morphology characteristics a few weeks or months in advance is therefore of paramount importance for predicting the primary surf zone life risks along this coast.

Modeling the Impact of the Implementation of a Submerged Structure on Surf Zone Sandbar Dynamics

Coastal defense strategies based on structures are increasingly unpopular as they are costly, leave lasting scars on the landscape, and sometimes have limited effectiveness or even adverse impacts. While a clear improvement concerning aesthetic considerations using soft submerged breakwater is undeniable, their design has often focused on wave transmission processes across the crest of the structure, overlooking short- to medium-term morphodynamic responses. In this study, we used a time- and depth-averaged morphodynamic model to investigate the impact of the implementation of a submerged breakwater on surf zone sandbar dynamics at the beach of Sète, SE France. The hydrodynamic module was calibrated with data collected during a field experiment using three current profilers deployed to capture rip-cell circulation at the edge of the structure. The model showed good agreement with measurements, particularly for the longshore component of the flow (RMSE = 0.07 m/s). Results showed that alongshore differential wave breaking at the edge of the submerged breakwater drove an intense (0.4 m/s) two-dimensional circulation for low- to moderate-energy waves. Simulations indicated that inner-bar rip channel development, which was observed prior to the submerged reef implementation, was inhibited in the lee of the structure as rip-cell circulation across the inner bar disappeared owing to persistently low-energy breaking waves. The cross-shore sandbar dynamics in the lee of the structure were also impacted due to the drastic decrease of the offshore-directed flow over the inner-bar during energetic events. This paper highlights that implementation of a submerged breakwater results in larges changes in nearshore hydrodynamics that, in turn, can affect overall surf zone sandbar behavior.