Abstract

Nearshore morphology is a key driver in wave breaking and the resulting nearshore circulation, recreational safety, and nutrient dispersion. Morphology persists within the nearshore in specific shapes that can be classified into equilibrium states. Equilibrium states convey qualitative information about bathymetry and relevant physical processes. While nearshore bathymetry is a challenge to collect, much information about the underlying bathymetry can be gained from remote sensing of the surfzone. This study presents a new method to automatically classify beach state from Argus daytimexposure imagery using a machine learning technique called convolutional neural networks (CNNs). The CNN processed imagery from two locations: Narrabeen, New South Wales, Australia and Duck, North Carolina, USA. Three different CNN models are examined, one trained at Narrabeen, one at Duck, and one trained at both locations. Each model was tested at the location where it was trained in a self-test, and the single-beach models were tested at the location where it was not trained in a transfer-test. For the self-tests, skill (as measured by the F-score) was comparable to expert agreement (CNN F-values at Duck = 0.80 and Narrabeen = 0.59). For the transfer-tests, the CNN model skill was reduced by 24–48%, suggesting the algorithm requires additional local data to improve transferability performance. Transferability tests showed that comparable F-scores (within 10%) to the self-trained cases can be achieved at both locations when at least 25% of the training data is from each site. This suggests that if applied to additional locations, a CNN model trained at one location may be skillful at new sites with limited new imagery data needed. Finally, a CNN visualization technique (Guided-Grad-CAM) confirmed that the CNN determined classifications using image regions (e.g., incised rip channels, terraces) that were consistent with beach state labelling rules.

Highlights

  • The temporal evolution of nearshore morphology is a key area of active research within the coastal community

  • The highest accuracy was in the classification of the low-energy Ref state, while the lowest accuracy of the convolutional neural networks (CNNs) was in classifying the rhythmic states of Rhythmic Bar Beach (RBB) (Nbn) and Transverse Bar Rip (TBR) (Duck)

  • The results showed that CNN ensembles that were trained and tested at the same site had skill that was comparable to inter-labeller agreement of the same test data set, and that the overall skill was higher at Duck (F-score = 0.80) than at Narrabeen (F-score = 0.61)

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Summary

Introduction

The temporal evolution of nearshore morphology is a key area of active research within the coastal community. Nearshore morphology dictates wave breaking patterns and nearshore circulation, which is important in understanding nutrient transport and determining recreational safety and erosion risk [1,2,3]. Urban beaches may experience high levels of pollutants entering the surfzone during storms from run-off and pose a health risk to swimmers as well as the local ecosystem. The nearshore morphology affects the generation of bores and nearshore currents that influence the time and length scales of pollutant mixing, dispersal and advection [4,5]. Rip currents are the leading cause of death at beaches globally and pose a significant risk to swimmer safety [6]. Nearshore morphology preceding a storm has been shown to influence the levels of shoreline and dune erosion [11,12]

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