Aubrey Beardsley in the 1990s Margaret Stetz (bio) and Mark Samuels Lasner (bio) The following books are under consideration in this review: Aubrey Beardsley, by Stephen Calloway; pp. 224. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1998, $39.95. Beardsley, Japonisme, and the Perversion of the Victorian Ideal, by Linda Gertner Zatlin; pp. xiv + 304. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 1997, $70.00. Aubrey Beardsley and the Nineties, by Peter Raby; pp. 120. London: Collins and Brown, 1998, £12.99. The Beardsley Industry: The Critical Reception in England and France, 1893–1914, by Jane Haville Desmarais; pp. x + 166. Aldershot, UK: Ashgate, 1998, £49.50, $84.95. Aubrey Beardsley: A Biography, by Matthew Sturgis; pp. x + 405. London: HarperCollins, 1998; Woodstock, NY: Overlook, 1999, £19.95, $29.95. Click for larger view View full resolution Figure 4. Aubrey Beardsley, Ave atque Vale. Under the Hill and Other Essays in Prose and Verse. London and New York: John Lane, Publisher, The Bodley Head, 1904. 60. The old lecture hall, a wonderfully creaky survivor of the days when the Victoria and Albert was known as the South Kensington Museum, had surely seen nothing like this before. As the strains of a syntho-pop rendering of the Liebestod from Richard Wagner’s Tristan und Isolde (1859) played on a continuous-loop tape, out came seven figures gliding slowly on immense platform clogs, the height of which added several inches to these already towering forms. Some were women with breasts bare of everything but powder, nipples angrily erect from the chill of a London autumn; some were men in drag, their faces painted the chalky hue of kabuki performers; some were of indeterminate gender, sporting dark wigs like swirls of frosting atop a cupcake and artificial butterflies on wires fluttering around their [End Page 289] elongated necks. All wore starkest black and white. There was the gauzily draped amazon with the warrior’s bosom so familiar from Aubrey Beardsley’s Salome illustration, Enter Herodias (1894). And there was Salome herself, encased in the garment from The Black Cape—massive, stiff, and shaped like the unfolding wings of a raven about to take flight. Inna Shulzhenko, a Russian fashion designer and director of the Gallery Az’Art in Moscow, had lifted these fantastic garments from Beardsley’s drawings for Oscar Wilde’s Salome, as well as for the Yellow Book (from which Beardsley was dismissed as art editor in 1895), the Savoy (with which he was associated from 1895–96), and the J. M. Dent edition of Le Morte Darthur (1893–94), and given them three dimensions in her “Beardsley Collection.” In doing so, she had highlighted the inherent theatricality of Beardsley’s pen-and-ink figures. But unlike, for instance, Alla Nazimova, who put the cast of her 1923 silent film version of Salome through its paces in awkward Beardsleyesque garb, Shulzhenko had recognized that Beardsley’s images of the clothed body are the antitheses of functional costumes for dramatic production. They are instead dramatic productions in themselves, each one the star of its own violent struggle against the viewers’ expectations. Beardsley’s designs cannot be subsumed into a larger spectacle, for they are already too arrestingly engaged in a dynamic visual contention with a variety of aesthetic and cultural norms. And as Shulzhenko’s translations of line into fabric emphasized, Beardsley’s representations of the human figure, in particular, continue today to be just as breathtakingly defiant of conventions of anatomy and proportion, as well as of race and sexuality—indeed, of whatsoever is ordinarily assumed to be biologically “natural”—as when they first appeared during the fin-de-siècle. The occasion for this instructive display was, surprisingly enough, a scholarly conference held in November 1998. Titled “Beardsley: Myth and Reality,” it was organized by the Education Department of the otherwise staid V & A to coincide with an exhibition curated by Stephen Calloway—one of four major shows at galleries and museums in England, in Japan, and at Princeton University during 1998, the centenary of Beardsley’s death. All four demonstrated convincingly that this English artist, whose life and career were cut short by tuberculosis at age twenty-five, was central not only to...
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