Cosmetic Raw Materials Research Articles

A Study on a Method of Detecting Heavy Metal Content Using Thioglycolic Acid and Quartz Crucible

In the Chinese Pharmacopoeia, the method of detecting heavy metals commonly uses thioglycolic acid. It is often used as a special method for the limit check of heavy metals in raw pharmaceutical or cosmetic raw materials. Traditional use of porcelain crucibles in sample pretreatment may result in false positive reactions. This study used quartz crucibles to replace the traditional porcelain crucibles to study the possibility of contamination. It was found that the false negative reactions caused by crucible material can be eliminated, and the precision of the method was verified by detecting three batches of samples. The method has good repeatability and accuracy. It can replace the use of traditional porcelain crucibles in the method of detecting heavy metals with thioglycolic acid.

Assessment of the Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties of Cornus mas L. Extracts on HDF, HaCaT and A375 Cells Exposed to UVA Radiation.

The influence of UV radiation on skin discoloration, skin aging and the development of skin cancer is widely known. As a part of this study, the effect of extracts from three varieties of Cornus mas L. (C. mas L.) on skin cells exposed to UVA radiation was assessed. The analyses were performed on both normal and cancer skin cells. For this purpose, the potential photoprotective effects of the obtained extracts (aqueous and ethanolic) was assessed by performing two cytotoxicity tests (Alamar blue and Neutral red). Additionally, the antioxidant capacity was compared using three different assays. The 2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (H2DCFDA) probe was used to evaluate the intracellular level of free radicals in cells exposed to the simultaneous action of UVA radiation and dogwood extracts. Additionally, the ability to inhibit excessive pigmentation was determined by assessing the inhibition of melanin formation and tyrosinase activity. The obtained results confirmed the strong antioxidant properties of dogwood extracts and their photoprotective effect on normal skin cells. The ability to inhibit the viability of melanoma cells was also observed. Additionally, a reduction in oxidative stress in skin cells exposed to UVA radiation and a strong inhibition of melanin formation and tyrosinase activity have been demonstrated. This study shows that dogwood extract could be a valuable cosmetic raw material that can play both a photoprotective and antihyperpigmentation role in cosmetic preparations.

The Effectiveness of Sunscreen Cream with Ethanol Extract of Sungkai Leaves (Peronema canescens Jack)

Sungkai (Peronema canescens Jack) (PCL) contains flavonoid compounds that can absorb UV light therefore having the potential to be developed as a raw material for cosmetics that functions as a sunscreen. The research aims to formulate PCL extract into a sunscreen cream. Sungkai leaves are macerated using 96% ethanol solvent. Specific and non-specific parameter tests were carried out on the extract as well as antioxidant tests using the DPPH method and SPF tests using the Mansur method. The results of this research showed that 96% ethanol extract of PCL had a blackish-green color, pH 5.25; the ethanol and water-soluble essence levels were 6.25% and 5.17%. The water content obtained is 27.4%; drying shrinkage is 0.46%; total ash content is 0.12% and acid insoluble ash content is 0.1%. The antioxidant value obtained was 35.06 ppm. Three cream formulations were prepared (FI of 0.1753%, FII of 0.3506%, and FIII of 0.5259%) and evaluated for organoleptic, homogeneity, cream type, viscosity, pH, particle size, and spreadability tests for one month at 25℃ and 40℃. The organoleptic test results of the cream have a soft texture, with varying colors; light green (FI), green (FII), and dark green (FIII) color. Other evaluation test results show that the cream has a pH of 5.16 - 6.73, a spreadability of 6.47 - 8.07 cm, a viscosity of 15466.67 - 38933.33 cPs, a particle size of 9.88 - 16.17 µm and an SPF of 17.68 (FI), 27.46 (FII), and 33.64 (FIII) with ultra protection on all three. PCL extract after being formulated into creams shows high SPF activity with F3 as the best formula. PCL extract can be formulated into a cream form that meets physical and chemical quality parameters.

Influence of Goji Berry EM Fermentation and Saccharification Products as Cosmetic Raw Materials on Hair Protection

Purpose: Recently, as the number of cases of side effects due to exposure to chemicals has increased, consumers' anxiety about chemicals has deepened, and interest in cosmetics using natural extracts that do not use chemical ingredients has increased. No-chemicals are being created and scientific research using natural extracts is expanding. Accordingly, Goji berry, which is a natural product handed down from the private sector and is rich in various functional ingredients such as carotinoids, choline, and zeatin, and is said to be excellent for antioxidation effects, was fermented and the active ingredients and effectiveness (in vitro) were investigated.
 Method: Goji berry, which has been found to contain large amounts of functional ingredients such as betaine and rutin, is extracted through double fermentation using EM (Effective Microorganisms) and malt to obtain total polyphenol content, flavonoid content, total sugar content, DPPH radical scavenging ability, and SOD. Effectiveness (in vitro) was examined through activity, catalase activity, hydrogen peroxide, and peroxidase verified.
 Results: As a result of the measurement, the sugar content increased when the EM (Effective Microorganisms) fermented product was enzymatically fermented after extracting Goji berry fruit with purified water. The difference depending on the enzyme fermentation temperature was also higher when the enzyme fermented at 60°C compared to immediately after fermentation. The sugar content increased by about two-fold. The total polyphenol and total flavonoid content decreased when the EM (Effective Microorganisms) fermentation product of the sealed pressurized hot water extract was enzymatically fermented at 60°C.
 Conclusion: The extract double-fermented from Goji berry fruit through EM (Effective Microorganisms) fermentation and malt enzyme fermentation has excellent antioxidant ability, suggesting the possibility of using Goji berry fruit and EM (Effective Microorganisms) fermentation as a natural antioxidant. I confirmed that it exists. In particular, it has antioxidant and antibacterial functions, and its feasibility as a natural raw material used in hair products was found.

Solid Lipid Nanoparticles Incorporated with Retinol and Pentapeptide-18-Optimization, Characterization, and Cosmetic Application.

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide can have a full spectrum of effects on the skin as a compatible combination of ingredients with broad anti-aging properties. The research's main objective was to ensure the stability of lipid nanocarriers containing retinol and peptide due to the planned use of this dispersion as a cosmetic raw material. To confirm the effectiveness of method optimization (high shear homogenization, HSH) and proper selection of substrates, SLN dispersions were obtained in three combinations: 1-non-incorporated SLNs; 2-SLNs containing only retinol; 3-SLNs containing retinol and pentapeptide-18; these were then stored at different temperatures (4, 25, 45 °C) for 4 weeks. The desired values of the physicochemical parameters of the optimized dispersion of lipid nanoparticles incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide over the required storage period were confirmed: mean particle size (Z-Ave) = 134.7 ± 0.3 nm; polydispersity index (PDI) = 0.269 ± 0.017 [-]; zeta potential (ZP) = 42.7 ± 1.2 mV (after 4 weeks at 25 °C). The results confirmed the proper selection of the SLN production method and the effectiveness of the optimization performed. The possibility of using the obtained raw material as an ingredient in cosmetic products with anti-aging properties was indicated.

Development of a green Komagataella phaffii cell factory for sustainable production of plant-derived sesquiterpene (–)-α-bisabolol

(–)-α-Bisabolol is a plant-derived sesquiterpene derived from Eremanthus erythropappus, which can be used as a raw material in cosmetics and has anti-inflammatory function. In this study, we designed six mutation sites of the (–)-α-bisabolol synthase BOS using the plmDCA algorithm. Among these, the F324Y mutation demonstrated exceptional performance, increasing the product yield by 73 %. We constructed a de novo (–)-α-bisabolol biosynthesis pathways through systematic synthetic biology strategies, including the enzyme design of BOS, selection of different linkers in fusion expression, and optimization of the mevalonate pathway, weakening the branching metabolic flow and multi-copy strategies, the yield of (–)-α-bisabolol was significantly increased, which was nearly 35-fold higher than that of the original strain (2.03 mg/L). The engineered strain was capable of producing 69.7 mg/L in shake flasks. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first report on the biosynthesis of (–)-α-bisabolol in Komagataella phaffii, implying this is a robust cell factory for sustainable production of other terpenoids.

New insight in secretory structures and secretion composition in Rhus typhina L. – Anatomical, histochemical, and ultrastructural studies

Rhus typhina is a valuable plant used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries due to the presence of biologically active substances accumulated in its organs, especially in secretory structures, i.e. trichomes and secretory ducts. Light microscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and transmission electron microscopy were used to examine the structure of glandular and non-glandular trichomes, as well as secretory ducts present in inflorescence peduncles of R. typhina. The chemical composition of the secretion produced by trichomes and ducts was assessed using histochemical techniques, including observations under brightfield and fluorescence microscopes. Two types of capitate glandular trichomes producing secretions with a similar composition and non-glandular trichomes exhibiting secretory activity were identified. The secretion of glandular trichomes was dominated by acidic and neutral lipids, essential oil, sesquiterpenes, and steroid-containing terpenes. The schizogenic secretory ducts located in the phloem produced a viscous milky substance with acidic polysaccharides, acidic lipids, phenolic compounds, and proteins. The secretion was released into the duct lumen through notches in the walls of the secretory epithelial cell facing the duct lumen. The location, type, and traits of the non-glandular trichomes and secretory structures, as well as the composition of the secreted products are considered important taxonomic features in the family Anacardiaceae and the Rhus genus. Additionally, these characters are important diagnostic markers for the pharmacobotanical identification of the species in medicinal and cosmetic raw materials. The various compounds present in the secretory structures of R. typhina may contribute to plant protection against pathogens or herbivory and probably play a role as attractants for pollinators and seed dispersers.

Analisis Deskriptif Pertumbuhan dan Perkembangan Cacing Tanah (Lumbricus rubellus) dengan Variasi Pakan Ampas Tahu dan Kotoran Sapi

Earthworms (Lumbricus rubellus) are beneficial invertebrates that reduce waste, animal feed, and cosmetic raw material. The research was conducted at Ruyani Life Sciences Learning Resources (SBIH), Bengkulu (Ruyani et al., 2018), from September to November 2023. The design of this study adopted a Complete Randomized Design (RAL) consisting of five experimental groups with different feed comparisons (in %).Earthworm growth and development are optimized in their natural habitat, which includes temperatures ranging from 15℃ to 25℃, soil moisture and air availability between 15% and 30%, soil pH levels between 6.0 and 7.2, and the presence of organic matter for food. The study fed earthworms a diet consisting of tofu residues and cow dung in different proportions: (a) 100% tofu residues and 0% cow dung; (b) 75% tofu residues and 25% cow dung; (c) 50% tofu residues and 50% cow dung; and (d) 25% tofu residues and 75% cow dung. The research findings indicated that the ideal feed composition for maximizing earthworm biomass production is 25% tofu residues and 75% cow dung. Additionally, the most effective ratio of individual earthworms throughout a four-week maintenance period is 75% tofu residues and 25% cow dung.

Evaluation of the Safety of Cosmetic Ingredients and Their Skin Compatibility through In Silico and In Vivo Assessments of a Newly Developed Eye Serum.

The term "risk assessment" is often substituted with "safety assessment", to demonstrate the safe properties of cosmetic ingredients and formulations. With respect to the actual legislative framework, the proper use of in silico evaluation could offer a representative non-animal substitute for the toxicity evaluation of cosmetic ingredients. The in silico assessment needs to be integrated with other lines of proof (in vitro and/or in vivo data) in the form of a complex methodology in order to demonstrate the safety evaluation of cosmetic ingredients/products. The present study aimed to develop and characterize a new cosmetic formulation, designed for the skin care of the periorbital area. Quality control comprising stability, physicochemical, and microbiological evaluation was performed. Another objective of this study was to present a screening model for the safety evaluation of the cosmetic formulation by identifying individual ingredients, and to confirm the skin compatibility based on in vivo evaluation. The results demonstrated the in silico and in vivo safety profile of the cosmetic ingredients used in the present formulation. In silico evaluation, using a novel, specific software applicable for the risk evaluation of ingredients and formulations, showed that the incorporated ingredients were non-mutagenic and non-sensitizing, and considering the margin of safety (MoS), the cosmetic raw materials could be considered safe. Skin compatibility was confirmed by the patch test performed under dermatological control, evidencing the "non-irritating" potential of the developed cosmetic formulation.

Optimization of an Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction Technique and the Effectiveness of the Sunscreen Components Isolated from Bletilla striata.

Bletilla striata is the dried tuber of B. striata (Thund.) Reichb.f., which has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, antioxidant and wound healing effects. Traditionally, it has been used for hemostasis therapy, as well as to treat sores, swelling and chapped skin. In this study, we used the ultraviolet (UV) absorbance rate of B. striata extracts as the index, and the extraction was varied with respect to the solid-liquid ratio, ethanol concentration, ultrasonic time and temperature in order to optimize the extraction process for its sunscreen components. The main compounds in the sunscreen ingredients of Baiji (B. striata) were analyzed using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography combined with quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry. The sunscreen properties were subsequently evaluated in vitro using the 3M tape method. The results show that the optimal extraction conditions for the sunscreen components of B. striata were a solid-liquid ratio of 1:40 (g/mL), an ethanol concentration of 50%, an ultrasonic time of 50 min and a temperature of 60 °C. A power of 100 W and an ultrasonic frequency of 40 Hz were used throughout the experiments. Under these optimized conditions, the UV absorption rate of the isolated sunscreen components in the UVB region reached 84.38%, and the RSD was 0.11%. Eighteen compounds were identified, including eleven 2-isobutyl malic acid glucose oxybenzyl esters, four phenanthrenes, two bibenzyl and one α-isobutylmalic acid. An evaluation of the sunscreen properties showed that the average UVB absorption values for the sunscreen samples from different batches of B. striata ranged from 0.727 to 1.201. The sunscreen ingredients of the extracts from B. striata had a good UV absorption capacity in the UVB area, and they were effective in their sunscreen effects under medium-intensity sunlight. Therefore, this study will be an experimental reference for the extraction of sunscreen ingredients from the B. striata plant, and it provides evidence for the future development of B. striata as a candidate cosmetic raw material with UVB protection properties.

Comparative Study of the Phytochemical Profile and Biological Activity of Ajuga reptans L. Leaf and Root Extracts

In this work, the phytochemical composition and the biological activity of the ethanolic extracts obtained from Ajuga reptans L. (Lamiaceae) leaves and roots (growing in Lesser Poland Voivodeship, Poland) were compared. The phytochemical composition of the extracts were determined by the high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD) method. The dominant compounds in both extracts were verbacoside, isoverbacoside, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic acid and rosmarinic acid. The antioxidant capacity of the extracts was evaluated by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and 2,2’-azobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonate (ABTS) tests. The Folin–Ciocalteu assay was used to determine the total polyphenolic content. Additionally, enzyme (tyrosinase, collagenase) inhibition tests and metal chelating ability were studied to assess the anti-aging properties of the extracts. Moreover, the A. reptans extracts’ capacity to absorb the whole range of ultraviolet radiation and high-energy visible (HEV) light was evaluated. The skin irritation test (SIT) EpiDerm was applied to evaluate the safety of the bugle extracts. The noteworthy point is that there is a lack of literature on the assessment of A. reptans root extract activity. Our study is the only one that compares the quantitative composition and biological activity of extracts from the root and leaves of A. reptans. The obtained results indicated that both of the extracts exhibit high antioxidant, chelating and photoprotective activity, but the extract from A. reptans roots showed a higher enzyme inhibition effect for mature skin. The A. reptans root extract, similarly to the leaf extract, could be applied as potentially multi-functional, safe and sensitive cosmetic raw materials, especially in anti-aging and anti-pollution cosmetics.

Use of Syzygium aromaticum L. Fermented Plant Extract to Enhance Antioxidant Potential: Fermentation Kinetics

The concept of our research is related to the use of stems from S. aromaticum L. in the fermentation process in order to obtain new cosmetic raw materials with high antioxidant potential that are safe for human fibroblasts (HDFs) and keratinocytes (HaCaTs). This evaluation involves treating cell lines with different concentrations of fermented extracts to establish a noncytotoxic dose range. The focus was on evaluating antioxidant activity (AA), total polyphenol content (TPC), and lactic acid efficiency (LAe). For this purpose, the most favourable technological parameters of the fermentation process of stems were determined, including the type of microorganisms, initial sugar content, plant raw material content, and fermentation time. In the present study, lactic acid was obtained with maximum efficiency by stem fermentation in the presence of lactic acid bacteria (LAB) and molasses as a source of six-carbon sugars. In addition, fermentation kinetics was investigated, the essence of which was to identify the technological parameters that allow the highest values of the main functions describing the process (AA, TPC LAe). Two kinetic models were used to determine the kinetics of process function changes during fermentation. The most favourable fermentation conditions for maximum antioxidant activity (26.88 mmol Tx/L ± 0.19), total polyphenol content (5.96 mmol GA/L ± 0.19), and lactic acid efficiency (88% ± 1) were: type of microorganism L. rhamnosus MI-0272, initial sugar content 3.20%, plant raw material content 6.40%, and a fermentation time of 9 days. The values of chelating activity (ChA), AA, and TPC in the fermented stems increased more than two-fold compared to the non-fermented extracts. Reducing activity (RA) and LAe increased to 46.22 mmol Fe3+/L ± 0.29 and 88% ± 1, respectively. Of the kinetic models adopted, follow-up reaction equations and first-order equations best described the time-dependent changes taking place. This study shows that the process function values of AA and LAe are dependent on the LAB strain and the content of the plant material, and the rate of change of TPC may largely depend on the forms of phenolic compounds formed during fermentation.

Phytochemical contents and bioactivity of four endemic Salvia seeds from Turkey: a comparative study to chia seed

AbstractRecently, the importance of medicinal plants such as Salvia species has been increasing both in medicine and in industrial branches, which includes food, feed, and cosmetic raw materials. On the other hand, chia seed is a functional food that has recently increased industrial importance due to its superior nutritional value, phytochemical components, and therapeutic effects. In our study, the antioxidant activity of methanol extracts from the seeds of endemic Salvia cadmica Boiss var. cadmica, and Salvia caespitosa Montbret & Aucher ex Benth., Salvia pisidica Boiss. & Heldr. ex Benth., and Salvia potentillifolia Boiss. & Heldr. ex Benth. collected from Burdur-Antalya/Turkey were determined via 1,1-diphenyl,2-picryl hydrazyl radical scavenging activity, cupric (II) reducing antioxidant capacity, b-carotene/linoleic acid bleaching and total phenolic, and total flavonoid content tests and compared with that of chia seed. Antimicrobial activity was determined according to minimum inhibitory concentration values, on S. aureus, E. coli, S. enterica, L. monocytogenes, C. albicans strains, but it was found negligible. Phenolic and fatty acid contents of the seed extracts were also determined by HPLC and GC–MS, respectively. S. pisidica and S. potentillifolia were found to be highly active. The major fatty acid composition of the chia seed was linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid while the others were linoleic, oleic, palmitic, and stearic acids. Despite fatty acid ratios of chia seed being more favorable; 1,1-diphenyl,2-picryl hydrazyl radical scavenging activity, cupric (II) reducing antioxidant capacity, total phenolic content, and antimicrobial activity of S. pisidica seed extracts and total flavonoid content and inhibition of β-carotene bleaching of S. potentillifolia seed extracts was higher than that of chia seed. These findings suggest seed extracts of these Salvia species are richer in phytochemicals and they are more active as antioxidants when compared to chia seed.

Review Book Of “Sacha Inchi : a Rich Nutrient Superfood from Amazon.” by Tresno Saras, Tiram Media Publisher, 2023

This book will discuss the history and culture of using sacha inchi, how to process sacha inchi into healthy food and drink products, and the potential for developing sacha inchi as a raw material for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Sacha Inchi, otherwise known as Inca beans or Inca Peanut, is a plant native to South America that grows well in the Amazon Region. Recently, Sacha Inchi has become increasingly popular as a nutrient-rich superfood. In the first chapter In the characteristics of the sacha inchi plant. The author explains that Sacha Inchi (Plukenetia volubilis L.) is a plant native to South America, mainly found in the Amazon rainforest region. This plant is known as a superfood plant because of its high nutritional content.

Developing Plant Exosomes as an Advanced Delivery System for Cosmetic Peptide.

Peptides are a promising skincare ingredient, but due to their inherent instability and the barrier function of the skin's surface, they often have limited skin absorption and penetration, which can significantly hinder their skincare benefits. To address this, a novel technique called NanoGlow has been introduced for encapsulating peptide-based cosmetic raw materials into engineered nanosized plant-derived exosomes (pExo) to achieve the goal of a healthier and more radiant skin state. In this approach, pExo served as carriers for cosmetic peptides across the intact skin barrier, enhancing their biological effectiveness in skin beauty. The NanoGlow strategy combines chemical activation and physical proencapsulation, boasting a high success rate and straightforward and stable operation, making it suitable for large-scale production. Comprehensive analysis using in vitro cellular absorption and skin penetration models has demonstrated that the nanosized pExo carriers significantly improve peptide penetration into the skin compared to free peptides. Furthermore, in vivo tissue slice studies have shown that pExo carriers efficiently deliver acetyl hexapeptide-8 to the skin's dermis, surpassing the performance of free peptides. Cosmetic skincare effect analysis has also indicated that pExo-loaded cosmetic peptides deliver superior results. Therefore, the NanoGlow technique harnesses the natural size and properties of pExo to maximize the bioavailability of cosmetic peptides, holding great promise for developing advanced peptide delivery systems in both the cosmetic and medical drug industries.

TNF-α/IFN-γ로 자극된 HaCaT 및 IgE로 감작된 RBL-2H3 세포에서 닥나무 가지 추출물의 알러지 염증반응 억제 효과

Broussonetia kazinoki twig extract (BKT) is recognized for its antioxidant and anti-cancer effects and natural whitening properties. So, it is used as a raw material for cosmetics. B. kazinoki twig is also an edible raw material. B. kazinoki has been used in Asia for paper production and oriental medicine, has anti-diabetic effects, and contains various flavonoids and alkaloids. In this study, to evaluate the efficacy of BKT on allergic skin inflammatory responses, we investigated its effects on factors related to skin inflammation in HaCaT keratinocytes and allergic responses in RBL-2H3 cells. There was no cytotoxicity of the 70% ethanol extract against HaCaT and RBL-2H3 cells. In HaCaT cells, stimulation with tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) and interferon-gamma (IFN-γ) increased the production of several chemokines, including thymus and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC), macrophage-derived chemokine (MDC), and regulated on activation, normal T cell expressed and secreted (RANTES). However, it was observed that this elevation was notably mitigated in a concentration-dependent manner upon treatment with BKT. Furthermore, BKT treatment demonstrated a significant reduction of β-hexosaminidase and inflammatory cytokines TNF-α and IL-4 in IgE-sensitized RBL-2H3 cells. Thus, it is expected that BKT can be used as a natural cosmetic and food ingredient that effectively suppresses allergic inflammatory reactions.

Enhanced heavy metal leaching from volcanic muds: Synergistic effects of citric acid and EDTA composite system

The soil leaching technology is a well-established technique commonly employed for the remediation of soils contaminated with heavy metals. Volcanic muds share similar properties to those of soil. This study utilizes soil leaching technology to tackle the presence of heavy metals in volcanic muds. It examines the leaching removal effect of the synergistic system of organic acid citric acid (CA) and chelating agent EDTA on heavy metals Pb, Cd, Cr, and Ni in volcanic muds. The leaching conditions were initially selected and subsequently optimized through the application of response surface methodology (RSM). The priority of leaching conditions can be ranked as follows: leaching duration is found to be more crucial than leaching agent concentration, which is noted to be more pivotal than the solid-liquid ratio. Following an in-depth evaluation of model predictions and experimental validation, it has been established that the optimal leaching concentration of EDTA is 0.15 mol·L−1, the optimal leaching duration is 9 h, and the optimal solid-liquid ratio is 1:10. For the compound CA, the most effective leaching concentration is 0.3 mol·L−1, the optimal leaching duration is 8 h, and the optimal ratio of solid to liquid is 1:10. The significance of the leaching conditions was further explored in conjunction with RSM. Furthermore, the integration of both leaching methods, namely combined leaching and stepwise leaching, has been demonstrated to amplify the removal efficiency of heavy metals, with stepwise leaching showing the highest removal rate. The experimental findings suggest that the leaching technique involving CA and EDTA composite system is an effective approach for the remediation of heavy metals such as Pb, Cd, Cr, and Ni in volcanic muds. This study provides theoretical rationale for the adoption of soil leaching technology in the remediation of heavy metals in volcanic muds. Additionally, the heavy metal content of the remediated volcanic muds substantially meets with the standards for cosmetic raw materials.

Use of Waste from the Food Industry and Applications of the Fermentation Process to Create Sustainable Cosmetic Products: A Review

In recent years, the sustainability of cosmetic products has received growing interest from the cosmetic industry and consumers due to the recommendation of the implementation of the circular economy and the European Green Deal. The sustainable development strategy takes into account the reduction of waste and energy consumption, and covers all processes of producing and using cosmetics, starting from the method of obtaining raw materials, through to the process of producing cosmetics bulk, to the selection of packaging. Particularly, the selection of raw materials has a large impact on sustainability of cosmetic emulsion. One way of resource recovery is the use of agro-food by-products and discarded waste to produce cosmetic raw materials, because most of them possess value-added bioactive compounds, such as enzymes and nutrients with high functionality. Their recovery may be performed by more sustainable extraction processes, leading to natural oils, extracts, polymers, phytosterols, vitamins, minerals, and unsaturated fatty acids. A relatively new and innovative form of designing sustainable and bioavailable cosmetic raw materials is fermentation, where bioferments are obtained from plant-based and food waste raw materials. In addition, optimization of the emulsification process by applying low-energy methods is a crucial step in obtaining sustainable cosmetics. This allows not only a reduction in the carbon footprint, but also the preservation of the valuable properties of the used raw materials. The following paper discusses methods of creating sustainable cosmetic emulsions with energy-saving procedures and by using raw materials from food waste and the fermentation process.

Flavonoid glycosides from the leaves of Michelia champaca

Michelia champaca L. (Magnoliaceae) was cultivated in large scale for flowers as cosmetic raw materials, whereas the value of its leaves remains to be discovered. Our chemical study on the leaves yielded four new flavonol diglycosides, champaflavosides A–D (1–4), together with twenty-three known flavonoid glycosides (5–27). Their structures were determined by spectroscopic and chemical methods. Compounds 5–21 and 23–27 were not previously reported from the genus Michelia, and kaempferol 3-O-rutinoside (22) was obtained from this species for the first time. All the compounds were evaluated for antioxidant activity by four in vitro assays. Compounds 3–12 and 20 showed more potent 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity than l-ascorbic acid (l-AA). Compounds 2–23, 25, and 27 exhibited 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS) radical cation scavenging activity superior to l-AA. The ferric reducing antioxidant powers (FRAP) of compounds 2–13, 17, and 19 were higher than l-AA. Further, eighteen compounds demonstrated cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity, of which champaflavoside D (4), rhamnetin 3-O-neohesperidoside (8), quercetin 3-O-(6-O-E-p-coumaroyl)-neohesperidoside (9), and liquiritin (27) were more potent than curcumin. The results revealed that the renewable leaves of M. champaca are a rich source of flavonoids and antioxidants.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae.

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.