Reviewed by: Clothing in 17th-Century Provincial England by Danae Tankard Sarah A. Bendall Tankard, Danae, Clothing in 17th-Century Provincial England, London, Bloomsbury, 2019; hardback; pp. xi, 264; 44 b/w illustrations; R.R.P. £91.80; ISBN 9781350098428. In choosing the provincial middling and poorer sorts as its focus, Danae Tankard's new monograph offers a refreshing and much needed perspective on dress practices in seventeenth-century England. Building on the work of historians such as Margaret Spufford and Susan Mee, whose recent monograph, The Clothing of the Common Sort, 1570–1700 (Oxford University Press, 2017), also deals with the sartorial habits of the non-elite, Tankard's study is unapologetically narrow in its geographical focus on Sussex during this period. It primarily utilizes household accounts and personal papers to examine five families of the merchant classes and lower gentry, as well as court records and probate documents in a more general exploration of the rural poor in this English county. After an introductory chapter that familiarizes the reader with Sussex and those chosen as case studies, Tankard's second chapter explores the literary constructions of clothing in seventeenth-century England. Although this chapter is not necessarily groundbreaking in what it explores, it is necessary to contextualize the study within the general cultural themes that are present when examining seventeenth-century dress, such as criticism of foreign fashions, age and gender, and excessive consumption. As such, it provides a good starter for those unfamiliar with this period. The chapter also touches on the divide between urban and rural sartorial codes, as it was presented in literature. However, more could have been done in this chapter to explain the city versus country stereotype that pervaded both politics and popular culture during the seventeenth century, as this is something that is frequently touched on in the monograph. Chapters 3 and 4 are the strongest in the book, as they focus on the underexamined logistics of clothing acquisition in early modern England. Chapter 3 looks at how cloth and clothing was made, distributed, and sold in Sussex. The wool and linen industry, tailoring trade, household production, and even the second-hand clothing market are all explored. Chapter 4 examines how the provincial shopper acquired fashionable goods from London by travelling there themselves, communicating with suppliers via letter, or enlisting the help of a proxy shopper. Tankard's case studies are strongest here, as she uses them to explain in detail how both provincial men and women navigated shopping. Surprisingly, we still know very little about tailoring in seventeenth-century England, and these chapters also provide new information about the relationship that many of these craftspeople had with their clients. The relationship between the rector Giles Moore and the tailor Richard Harland was particularly illuminating, as Moore's records show that Harland accompanied him on various shopping trips and often acted as an intermediary to acquire other clothing goods for his client. Chapters 4 and 5 focus on the sartorial behaviours of the country gentry in Sussex and the importance of clothing in maintaining their social identities. Tankard shows here how a close reading of otherwise mundane sources like [End Page 262] household accounts and bills can reveal much information about the sartorial identities of these men and women. Tankard picks up here on themes discussed in Chapter 2, particularly those relating to the perception of country folk and their unfashionable dress. Again, the discussion of city versus country and stereotypes of country gentlemen fell a bit flat (pp. 107–09) and it deserved a more nuanced investigation, especially given the huge political upheavals involving these men during the seventeenth century. However, Tankard does highlight that country gentlemen were certainly not unaware of fashionable trends and many used accessories and trims to keep up with their city counterparts and express notions of gentility. While Chapter 4 largely succeeds in its aims, Chapter 5 on the provincial gentlewoman is much stronger. It focuses on how gender constrained gentlewomen's ability to shop as freely as men and presents the sartorial meanings of dress for gentlewomen in relation to a much wider range of life stages, as the case studies consider virgins, wives, and...
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