Properties Of Wool Fabrics Research Articles

Evaluation of some of the properties of plasma treated wool fabric

AbstractLow temperature plasma (LTP) treatment was applied to wool fabric with the use of a nonpolymerizing gas, namely oxygen. Properties of the LTP‐treated samples including low stress mechanical behavior, air permeability, and thermal characteristics were evaluated in this study. Kawabata evaluation system fabric (KES‐F) was employed to determine the tensile, shearing, bending, and compression strength properties and surface roughness of the specimens. The changes in these properties are believed to be closely related to the interfiber and interyarn frictional force induced by the LTP. The decrease in the air permeability of the LTP‐treated wool fabric was found to be probably because of the plasma action effect on increasing the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology, which was confirmed by scanning electron microscopy micrographs. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP‐treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the earlier findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yarns and fibers. This study suggested that the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric, and also provide information for developing LTP‐treated wool fabric for industrial use. © 2006 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. J Appl Polym Sci 102: 5958–5964, 2006

Low Temperature Plasma Treatment for Wool Fabric

Wool fabric was treated with low temperature plasma (LTP) with a non-polymerizing gas, namely oxygen. After the LTP treatment, the properties of the fabric, including low-stress mechanical properties, air permeability and thermal properties, were studied. The low-stress mechanical properties obtained by the means of Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F) revealed that the tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties were altered after the LTP treatment. The changes in these properties are believed to be related closely to the inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional force induced by the LTP treatment. The decrease in the air permeability of the treated wool fabric was found to be probably due to the plasma action effect on increasing in the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP-treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the above findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yarns and fibers. This study suggested that the properties changed by the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric.

New Approach for Easy-Care Finishing of Woolen Fabric

A new approach for improving the durable press properties of wool fabric was investigated. The new technique involves padding with finishing bath containing DMDHEU at pH 2 using different acids, batching for 2 h at room temperature, followed by passing through a neutralizing bath containing triethanolamine (3 g/L) as an acid scavenger, and drying at 120°C/5 min. The results indicate that: i) wool fabric samples finished with the aforementioned technique acquire better durable press properties, higher whiteness index, and higher extent of post-dyeing, regardless of the acid used; ii) of the various acids used, HCl along with its amine salt, constitute a highly efficient catalytic system; iii) increasing DMDHEU concentration up to a certain limit has a positive impact on the dry and wet fabric resiliency, whiteness index, protection properties against moth attack, as well as on the extent of post-dyeing; and iv) the extent of improvement in the aforementioned properties is governed by the type of finishing agent and follows the descending order: Arkofix®NG > Fixapret®Eco, irrespective of the catalytic system used.

Effect of low temperature plasma treatment on wool fabric properties

Low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment was applied to wool fabric with the use of a non-polymerizing gas, namely oxygen. After the LTP treatment, the fabric properties including low-stress mechanical properties, air permeability and thermal properties, were evaluated. The low-stress mechanical properties were evaluated by means of Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F) revealing that the tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties were altered after the LTP treatment. The changes in these properties are believed to be related closely to the inter-fiber and inter-yarn frictional force induced by the LTP. The decrease in the air permeability of the LTP-treated wool fabric was found to be probably due to the plasma action effect on increasing in the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP-treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the above findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yarns and fibers. This study suggested that the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric.

Chemical modification of proteases for wool cuticle scale removal

Over the last few decades several enzymatic processes to improve properties of wool fabrics like felting tendency, shrink resistance, dyeing ability and handling characteristics have been described. Previous investigations into the use of proteases to hydrolyse the cuticles at the surface of wool fibres, resulted in high strength and weight losses. Therefore restriction of the enzyme activity to the wool surface or control of enzyme diffusion to the cortex cells is required.To change the diffusion behaviour of proteases in wool fibres, the soluble polymer PEG was covalently attached to a protease from Bacillus lentus. Modified enzymes with different molecular weights were compared. These modified enzymes retained up to 80% of their activity in the standard assay while hydrolysis of wool fibres was successfully restricted to cuticles, resulting in a 90% decrease in weight losses compared to non-modified enzymes.

Preserving Wool Fabric Properties During Dyeing Using Some Maleic Acid Derivatives

The protective effects on wool dyeing of three compounds containing activated double bonds are studied and compared with some commercially available products. Wool fabric is dyed under different conditions with Kiton Fast Blue CR 200 in the presence of N-(trifluorophenyl) maleamic acid, N-(1-naphthyl) maleimide, N-(trifluorophenyl) male imide, Irgasol HTW NEW, and Miralan HTP. The consequences of the treatments are evaluated in terms of tensile strength, permanent set, and hygral expansion of the fabric samples. Optimal values of temperature, pH, and concentration of protective agent are determined for minimal changes in fabric physical properties during dyeing. The results show that two different chemical mechanisms can be used to explain changes to the physical properties that occur during the wool dyeing process.

Dimensional and Surface Properties of Plasma and Silicone Treated Wool Fabric

To improve the dimensional properties of wool fabric, two kinds of silicone polymers are applied to plasma pretreated wool. With this treatment, hygral expansion increases slightly but still remains smaller than that of silicone treated wool without the plasma pretreatment. The wrinkle recovery angles of wool increase with the treatment, and the values of fabric treated with plasma and silicone polymers are higher than those with no plasma pretreatment. In addition, the harsher handle imparted by plasma modification is improved with silicone treatment. The results show that the plasma pretreatment modifies the cuticle surface of the wool fibers and increases the reactivity of the wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Therefore, the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can improve the dimensional stability, wrinkle resistance, and performance properties of the wool. Surface smoothness of the treated fabrics as measured with a new evaluation system shows good correspondence with results from a KES-FB4 surface tester.

Deodorant Properties of Wool Fabrics Dyed with Acid Mordant Dyes and a Copper Salt

Wool fabrics with a deodorant function are prepared by acid mordant dyeing with copper(II) nitrate. The effects of pre- and after-mordanting are examined for C.I. Mordant Yellow 3 and C.I. Mordant Red 17. Carboxylate groups in the wool fibers and the dyes work to fix copper ion with the deodorant ability against mercaptan. The elimination of mercaptan from the air by the mordant dyed fabrics is measured in a Teddler bag. Fabrics untreated or dyed without mordanting show no deodorant ability, but those pre-mordanted or pre- and after-mordanted show considerable deodorant ability. By controlling the pH of the dyebath to about 4, dye and copper ion uptake of the fabric is optimized and the deodorant ability is also optimum.

Effects of Silicone Treatments on the Dimensional Properties of Wool Fabric

This study evaluates the effects of silicone softeners on the dimensional properties of wool fabric. Samples are treated with a simple pad-dry-cure process in an aqueous bath with aminofunctional and epoxyfunctional silicone softeners. The results indicate that dimensional stability and performance properties improve. The maximum effect is obtained with a 1:1 proportion of aminofunctional and epoxyfunctional silicone softeners, probably due to the synergistic effect of both softeners by the catalyzing reaction of the amine group. A hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone softener seems to increase fiber swelling and prevents the reduction of hygral expansion. As for the other properties, there are no significant variations when different kinds of epoxyfunctional silicone softeners are used. The most significant effect of the softeners is the surface coating, which reduces interfiber or interyarn friction.

Nondestructive Measurement of Mechanical Properties of Wool Fabrics by an Acoustic Emission Method

The mechanical properties of textiles are important because they define many of the performance characteristics of end-products. Stress-strain tests are commonly used to measure tensile properties, but stress-strain curves of woven textiles are monotonic up to the breaking point and provide little information about events during stretching. We use acoustic emission spectroscopy to characterize the mechanical properties of a wide variety of materials, including some textiles. We investigate the mechanical properties of two woolen fabrics, correlating the stress-strain curves with acoustic emission events. Our results indicate that cumulative acoustic emission is a nondestructive indicator of incipient fabric damage and can be used as a quality control test in fabric manufacturing.

Dimensional properties of low temperature plasma and silicone treated wool fabric

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

Effects of Epoxide and Silicone Polymers on the Mechanical and Performance Properties of Wool Fabric

To improve the wrinkle recovery as well as the performance properties of garments, wool fabric is treated separately with epoxide, silicone polymers, and a mixture of the two, where the two reagents are sequentially applied in a simple pad-dry-cure process. Each reagent improves the wrinkle recovery of wool by a different mechanism. The epoxide improves wrinkle recovery by changing the viscoelastic properties of wool fibers and increasing their resilience. This contrasts with silicone polymers, which act largely by decreasing the frictional component of wrinkling through the formation of a thin film of polymers on the fiber surface. Electron spectroscopy of chemical analysis is used to investigate the chemical changes. Mechanical properties closely related to wrinkle recov ery of treated fabrics are analyzed in relation to changes in the structure of the fibers. The effects of the silicone polymer and epoxide on the wrinkle recovery of wool fabric are additive when the reagents are applied in a two-stage procedure. Fabrics treated by this method show better abrasion resistance, high tear strength, and better hand than fabrics treated solely with the epoxide.

Protective Effect of Maleic Acid Derivatives on the Properties of Wool Fabric Dyed at 120°C

Eleven maleic acid derivatives are synthesized and authenticated, then used as wool protective agents for dyeing wool at 120°C with Isolan Red S-RL. The protective effects are evaluated in terms of tensile properties (initial modulus, tensile strength, extension at break, and work to rupture) for both conditioned and wet-state fabrics, chemical damage is assessed in terms of alkali solubility, and hygral expansion is also measured. N-naphthyl and trifluorophenyl maleamic acid and N-benzyl and N-trifluorophenyl maleimides pro vide beneficial effects in terms of increased tensile strength, reduced hygral expansion, and minimal yellowing. However, N-benzyl and N-trifluorophenyl maleimides produce higher alkali solubilities. These results are in contrast to those for Irgasol HTW NEW treated wool, which has relatively low alkali solubility yet higher hygral expansion and poorer tensile properties.

The Properties of Wool Fabric Prepared for Dyeing by Using Chemically Assisted Wet-setting Processes

The level of permanent set imparted and the stability of the fabric to subsequent dyeing are increased by the use of reducing agents in setting operations prior to dyeing. However, their use has been criticized for damaging wool fibres. Work reported in this paper indicates that the effect of the setting agent on the final properties of the fabric is small. In pressure-decatizing, reductive setting agents had only a small effect on the amount of permanent set imparted and no significant effect on the properties of the final fabric. Under industrial conditions, the level of fibre damage observed was much less than the level required to impair fabric quality dramatically.

BOOK REVIEW

Book reviewed in this article:Finishing and wool fabric properties — a guide to the theory and practice of finishing woven wool fabrics, Ed. P R Brady (Australian CSIRO Wool Technology, 1997)

Surface properties of low-temperature plasma treated wool fabrics

Abstract Induced surface properties of wool fabrics created by the sputtering of low-temperature plasma treatment, such as surface lustre, wettability, surface electrostatic and dyeability, have been investigated. After the low-temperature plasma treatment, the treated wool fabric specimens exhibited better hydrophilicity and surface electrostatic properties at room temperature, together with improved dyeing rate. Study of the surfaces of the specimens showed that low-temperature plasma treatment did not effect any changes in the glossiness of the specimen. Scanning electron microscope observation illustrated the occurrence of some grooves on the fibre specimens that might possibly provide a pathway for a faster dyeing rate.

Engineering the Extensibility and Dimensional Properties of Wool Fabric in Finishing

An empirical study to determine the quantitative relationships between changes in the dimensions of wool fabrics during finishing and the resultant changes in extensibility, relaxation shrinkage, and hygral expansion is reported. Sufficiently quantitative correlations can be obtained between relaxation shrinkage, extensibility, and dimensional change of wool fabrics to allow the finisher to ‘engineer’ these fabric properties in a simple temporary-setting operation. However, the response of fabric extensibility to dimensional change depends on yarn interaction within the fabric. A permanent-setting operation can be used to control hygral expansion by engineering the relaxed dimensions of the fabric. Unfortunately, unless the fabric has been permanently set in some earlier operation (e.g. piece-dyeing), the response of fabric to changes in the relaxed dimension is affected by the setting process.

Plasma Modification of Wool Fabric: Effect on Fabric Properties

Previous studies showed that the feltability and wettability of wool fabrics were improved after the application of plasma treatment. In the present paper, further study on the plasma treatment was carried out to investigate its effect on other fabric properties including (i) performance properties (tearing strength, tensile strength and elongation), (ii) aesthetic properties (pilling resistance and crease recovery) and (iii) comfort properties (air permeability, wettability and antistatic). Pure wool 2/1 twill fabrics were treated by plasma using three non-polymerising gases namely oxygen, nitrogen and 25% hydrogen / 75% nitrogen gas mixture. The operation conditions, i.e. power, pressure and treatment duration, were the same for all plasma treatments. Different tests were conducted to investigate the effect of plasma treatment on the properties of treated fabrics. The results of experiments showed that plasma treatment did give different degrees of influence on the properties of wool fabric. In addition, the effectiveness of different gases plasma treatment was compared of which the gas mixture plasma gave the best modification effect.

Effect of Glow Discharge-Polymer Treatments on the Shrinkage Behavior and Physical Properties of Wool Fabric

The application of glow discharge plasma to the surface of wool fabric is known to increase fiber hydrophilicity and confer a partial shrink resist effect during washing. In this work, four different polymer systems, Basolan SW, Basolan MW, Polymer G, and Polymer PL, are applied onto plasma treated wool fabric to enhance the degree of shrink resistance. The level of shrink resistance varies significantly with plasma-polymer treatments, depending on the kind of polymer system applied, with Polymers PL and G conferring excellent shrink resistance even for very short plasma pretreatment times of 2 minutes. The extent of weight loss during washing is also minimized for all plasma-polymer applications relative to polymer-only or chlorinated-polymer treated wool. Fabric tear strength and handle are adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties are favorably restored on polymer application. Wrinkle recovery decreases with plasma treatment time, and this property is not improved with polymer application.

低温プラズマおよび酵素処理羊毛の収縮性

It has so far been considered that shrinkproof of wool fabrics is difficult to be achieved by enzyme treatment alone. However, we found that the shrink resistance is improved significantly by dual plasma and enzyme treatments. In this article the properties of wool fabrics treated with plasma and/or enzyme were examined by means of SEM. Also the zeta potential and static electrical properties of the fabrics were measured.From SEM observations it was found that the surfaces of wool fabrics treated with enzyme alone undergo partial and deep damage while those treated with dual plasma and enzyme are subject to slight but many damages. The zeta potential and static electrical properties of wool fabrics treated with dual plasma and enzyme were different from those of the fabrics treated with enzyme alone or original one.Thus it is likely that the zeta potential and static electrical properties in addition to the surface shapes are correlated to the shrink resistance of the fabrics.