Inferring underlying microscopic dynamics from low-dimensional experimental signals is a central problem in physics, chemistry, and biology. As a trade-off between molecular complexity and the low-dimensional nature of experimental data, mesoscopic descriptions such as the Markovian master equation are commonly used. The states in such descriptions usually include multiple microscopic states, and the ensuing coarse-grained dynamics are generally non-Markovian. It is frequently assumed that such dynamics can nevertheless be described as a Markov process because of the timescale separation between slow transitions from one observed coarse state to another and the fast interconversion within such states. Here, we use a simple model of a molecular motor with unobserved internal states to highlight that (1) dissipation estimated from the observed coarse dynamics may significantly underestimate microscopic dissipation even in the presence of timescale separation and even when mesoscopic states do not contain dissipative cycles and (2) timescale separation is not necessarily required for the Markov approximation to give the exact entropy production, provided that certain constraints on the microscopic rates are satisfied. When the Markov approximation is inadequate, we discuss whether including memory effects can improve the estimate. Surprisingly, when we do so in a "model-free" way by computing the Kullback-Leibler divergence between the observed probability distributions of forward trajectories and their time reverses, this leads to poorer estimates of entropy production. Finally, we argue that alternative approaches, such as hidden Markov models, may uncover the dissipative nature of the microscopic dynamics even when the observed coarse trajectories are completely time-reversible.
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