Primary Hand Values Research Articles

Objective Evaluation of Total Hand Value for Bedsheet

ABSTRACT The aim of this paper is to develop an objective set of hand equations for bedsheet fabrics that are produced from conventional or non-conventional fibers such as cotton, polyester, modal, viscose, Excel, and their blends. In order to evaluate the fabric hand of bed sheets objectively, four primary hand values such as Sofutosa (soft feeling), Numeri (smoothness), Fukurami (fullness), and Koshi (stiffness) are selected by the opinion of experts. Eight basic mechanical properties have been used to develop primary and total hand equations. The computational (objective evaluation) methods of total hand values of bed sheets were developed by using subjective total hand values and low-stress mechanical properties of bedsheets by the stepwise block residual regression method. From the regression equation, the computational value of all samples has been generated to compare with the subjective and experimental values and investigate the correlation between experimental, subjective, and computational total hand value. According to the study, the correlation value (R) between experimental and computational is 0.856, and between subjective and computational is 0.964. In this study, the equation obtained shows a strong correlation between the subjective and experimental results, which confirms that the total hand value of the bed linen fabrics can be anticipated with a tolerable accuracy level.

A study on the Low Stress Mechanical properties of spun silk sarees woven on Handloom

The silk handloom industry consumes two-thirds of the raw silk produced domestically in India. It was envisaged to develop a handloom silk saree using spun silk as warp and or weft and study the fabric characteristics in terms of low-stress mechanical properties using Kawabata analysis. Accordingly, a commercially available finer variety of Nm 210/2 spun silk was used as warp and or weft to produce three types of silk sarees and compared with regular reeled silk saree. Two types of spun silk sarees showed significantly lesser bending stiffness when compared to the reeled silk saree that implies, the fabric is less stiff with better drape-ability. The shear rigidity of all the spun silk sarees was significantly lower than that of reeled regular silk saree. It implies that the spun silk fabric can be easily distorted in laying up, marking and cutting. As such it is easy for folding and sleeve insertion during fabric stitching. Also, the spun silk saree possesses tensile, surface and compression properties at par with reeled silk saree. The analysis revealed that the Primary Hand Values (PHV), Koshi (Stiffness), Numeri (Smoothness) and Fukurami (Softness) including the Total Hand Value (THV) for the women’s thin dress material were better than that of regular reeled silk saree. The results of thermal properties revealed that the Q-max, CLO and TIV of the spun silk sarees are significantly better than that of regular reeled silk saree.

Objective Hand Evaluation of Stretch Fabrics Using Artificial Neural Network and Computational Model

ABSTRACT Stretch woven textiles are widely employed because of their excellent elongation and recovery properties. The stretch fabrics studied in this research can be used as power stretch and action stretch sportswear fabrics. The purpose of this paper is to investigate an approach to predict the total hand value by translating the senses into numbers. Computational and artificial neural network models were developed. Five primary hand attributes softness, smoothness, fullness, stiffness, and stretchability were shortlisted that influence the fabric handle. Computational methods were used to generate primary and total hand equations based on basic mechanical parameters. To forecast primary hand values, stretch percent was used with low stress mechanical properties. The association between subjective, computational, and artificial neural network total hand values was investigated using a statistical technique. The subjective and computational hand values have a high correlation of 0.84. The subjective and artificial neural network hand values were shown to have a 0.82 correlation. The accuracy of both models’ prediction of fabric hand was found to be very high. The study finds that both models can forecast the total hand value of stretch materials with a tolerable level of accuracy.

The impact of printable interlining printing pattern on hand value of wool fabrics

The printable interlining technique directly prints the adhesive onto the garment, without needing a separate interlining. Previous research identified the optimum printing conditions concerning squeegee frequency, screen mesh, and agent viscosity, to achieve the best hand value for the wool fabrics. The selection of the printing pattern is one of the most important factors influencing the manufacturing and characteristics of the finished fabric. Therefore, theoretically printing patterns could potentially affect the most important human experiential characteristics of the fabric–hand value. In this work, utilizing both the existing and newly developed printing patterns, we systematically investigated the effect of printing pattern on the hand value of wool fabrics that are of different weights. The results showed that overall, the lightweight fabric has lower values in the categories of stiffness, smoothness, and fullness and softness given identical pattern compared with medium weight fabrics. However, lightweight fabric's THV was uniformly higher than the medium weight fabric. Lightweight fabric's primary hand values were less sensitive to variations in printing density compared to the medium weight fabric. Regardless of fabric weight, the dot-based patterns were on average the best performing wool fabrics in terms of low stiffness, high smoothness, high fullness and softness, and high THV. This indicates that to achieve the best overall hand value, the dot-based printing pattern was preferable to the solid or stripe patterns. Pattern direction, specifically the direction of stripes, had in most cases negligible effect on hand value performance. These findings imply that for future designs that achieve great overall hand value using printable interlining on wool fabrics, dot-based printing patterns should be adopted, which has the added advantage of less printing agent consumption.

Hand value optimization of printable interlining technique design on woolen fabric via orthogonal analysis

Traditional fusible interlining utilizes an adhesive on the fabric surface to improve garment hand despite the cost. Recent research led to the development of printable interlining that bypasses the fusion process. Printable interlining prints the adhesive directly onto the garment parts at a suitable density, achieving the support and control equivalent to a fusion process only at a fraction of the cost. However, hurdles for applications exist in that the efficiency of the printing technique calls for improvement. One governing key performance factor, the hand value has not been evaluated. In this work, we used an efficient interlining printing technique on woolen fabrics of various weights, and optimized the hand value performance through modulation of manufacturing effective factors, including squeegee frequency, screen mesh, and agent viscosity, using an orthogonal testing strategy. The results showed that for lightweight woolen fabrics screen mesh was an important factor for hand value performance; for light and medium weight woolen fabrics, the squeegee frequency had significant impact on hand value performance; for medium and heavyweight fabrics agent viscosity was an influential factor. We also explored possible correlations between primary hand value parameters that may simplify research and manufacturing processes by reducing the number of primary hand values measured. The results revealed significant correlations between any combination of primary hand values, with stronger correlations as the fabric weight increased. These results may have implications in hand value-oriented garment manufacturing of printable interlinings to woolen fabrics.

Quality inspection and prediction of the comfort of fabrics finished with functional polymers

Textile’s primary hand (HV) and total hand values (THV) are very important parameters and are used to identify the quality of clothing comfort. This paper aims to predict the HV and THV of the fabrics finished with functional polymers by applying Kawabata’s translation equations. The mechanical properties were achieved using Kawabata’s fabric evaluation system (KES-F) and the inference/interpretation was drawn. Then, HV and THV predictions were performed by applying Kawabata’s translation equations of the KN-101 and KN-301 series. The KES-F result confirmed that it is possible to observe the operative finishing effect on the mechanical properties of fabrics. The prediction results show that the total quality comfort of the functional fabrics could able be estimated by the equation developed by Kawabata; the calculated errors (~0.66) were within the range of the standard deviations (~0.78) of the samples between the predicted and ranked THV. The experimental and the calculated primary hand values showed strong correlation coefficients up to ~0.98 which is significant at 0.001 confidence levels. As actual functional fabrics with various surface properties were provided to estimate their tactile comfort via the equations, the result verified that the equation is reliable for the tactile comfort evaluation and grading.

A mathematical model for objective hand evaluation of automotive seat fabrics

A mathematical model for objective evaluation of hand value of car seat fabrics was developed using a step-wise block regression method. The subjective assessment of fabrics was conducted by a panel of judges to identify the primary hand attributes and the related mechanical parameters playing an important role in the fabric hand evaluation. The primary attributes selected by judges were conformability, smoothness, softness and stretchability. The coefficient of concordance was determined to find out the agreement among the judges. From consumer point of view, conformability got the highest weightage in the survey. There is an excellent correlation between the subjective and objective primary hand values. The correlation between the subjective and the objective total hand values found to be very high (R > 0.9) both with and without stretchability parameter.

Silhouette and handle design of cotton crepe fabrics for dresses

Purpose For over a century, traditional Japanese cotton crepe fabrics have been popular for men’s underwear in the humid summer. Now, consumer demand is for crepe fabrics that are more attractive, reflecting a shift in use from underwear to women’s dresses. The purpose of this paper is to clarify how the structures of the crepe and its constituent yarns affect the physical properties, handle and silhouette formability of crepe fabrics for dresses. Design/methodology/approach Three plain-weave gray fabrics were finished by four different processes to change their crepe structures. The mechanical and surface properties of the fabrics were measured using the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics. The primary hand values and silhouette formability of the fabrics were calculated using conversion equations based on the physical properties. The handle of the crepe fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of flared collars made of them were assessed by female students using the semantic differential method. Findings Comparing the fabrics made from the same gray fabric, the piqué crepe fabrics showed larger Hari (anti-drape) and Shari (crispness) than the others. The subjective hand value of softness was closely related to fabric thickness. The assessors preferred the fine piqué crepe fabrics over the wide piqué fabrics regarding both the tactile feeling of the fabrics and the aesthetic appearance of the flared collars. The attractiveness of the flared collars was dominated by the shear stiffness of the fabrics. Originality/value The fine piqué crepe fabric made from fine yarns produced a more preferable handle. The fine piqué fabric made from thicker yarns produced flared collars with silhouettes that are more attractive. This indicates that the fine piqué structure is a positive feature that makes the fabric suitable for various types of dresses.

Effect of pattern elements of weft knitting on haptic preferences regarding winter garments

An empirical survey was conducted, manually evaluating the relative haptic preference of patterns in weft knitting for winter garments in Mönchengladbach, Germany. Thirty-six patterns were compared in a blind test using ranking orders with respect to six primary hand values (thickness, softness, warmth, weight, stiffness, and smoothness) and general preference for winter garments by 35 participants. Traits of popular patterns included softness and smoothness as well as tucked stitches, rib structures, and float stitches on the surface. On the other hand, unpopular patterns included lace, purl stitches, and ripples.

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of hemp woven fabrics treated with liquid ammonia

The effects of liquid ammonia (L/A) treatment on the mechanical properties and hand of 100 % hemp woven fabrics were investigated by the KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric). Tensile energy and tensile resilience were increased by the L/A treatment. Bending and shearing values such as bending rigidity, bending moment, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis of the L/A treated fabrics were lower than those of the untreated ones. Compressional linearity and compressional energy were decreased while the compressional resilience was increased by the L/A treatment. From the hand evaluation, the primary hand values as well as total hand value of the hemp fabric were markedly increased by the L/A treatment, especially when yarn number was fine. Therefore, L/A treatment was found to be an effective method of improving the flexibility and softness of hemp woven fabrics.

Effects of Clothing Material Dyed with Astringent Persimmon Extract upon Exercise-Induced Thermal Strain and Sensory Responses in a Warm Environment

This study investigated the effects of persimmon-dyed clothing materials upon thermophysiological responses and subjective comfort sensations during exercise and rest in a warm environment. Six healthy, untrained women participated in two separate testing sessions, with cotton materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract (DC) and undyed cotton materials (UDC). The physical characteristics associated with heat and moisture transfer were improved in DC; also, stiffness, anti-drapery stiffness and crispness in the primary hand values were higher in DC. The experimental protocol consisted of a 10-min rest, 15-min exercise on a treadmill (at ) and 25-min recovery at and . The results were as follows: When wearing DC rather than UDC, mean body temperature, heart rate, heat storage and body mass loss were significantly lower during the whole experimental period. Clothing microclimate temperature showed different profiles between the two clothing materials, being lower with DC than UDC during the first half of exercise and the second half of recovery. Clothing microclimate humidity was significantly lower with DC than UDC during the whole experimental period. When wearing UDC, subjects felt significantly warmer and less comfortable during exercise, and sensed greater humidity during exercise and recovery. These results suggest that eco-friendly clothing materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract can reduce exercise-induced heat load and improve subjective sensations when exercising and resting in a warm environment, due to greater heat dissipation from the body to the outside environment compared with undyed clothing materials.

Fabric hand of a dry finished wool fabric

The appearance and hand of end-use fabrics has become more and more important when purchasing textile fabrics. The finishing parameters have complex influences on the large number of changes that occur in fabric properties during finishing processes. This study focused on the influences of different finishing parameters on mechanical and surface properties in order to discover the most appropriate finishing process according to the requirements of fabric handle and appearance. The KES-F system was used to evaluate fabric hand objectively, as well as the mechanical and surface properties of a woven wool fabric. Four finishing processes were selected, which differed in relation to the temperature when drying (T1=160 C, T2=180 C) and processing conditions during autoclave decatizing (T1=95 C, p1=0.4 bar, T2=110 C, p2=1 bar). The effect of the influential parameters inside four different finishing processes on the mechanical properties and hand of a selected woven fabric was evaluated using the analysis of variance. The results show that tensile properties are much more influenced by the belt pressing process while bending and shear properties are influenced by continuous decatizing process, which is the process that mostly improves fabric stability at the beginning of the dry finishing cycle. When the primary and total hand values were observed, it could be seen that applying chemicals during belt pressing had some consequences, the impacts of which could be observed directly in the resulting hand values.

Performance Evaluation of Silicone-polyurethane Finished Jute / Cotton Union Fabric for Apparel End Uses

The effect of enzyme treatments with consecutive softening by the use of silicone – polyurethane on low stress mechanical properties and hand values of jute/cotton union fabric have been studied on the Kawabata evaluation system (KES). The results indicate that the enzyme treated, silicone – polyurethane finished fabric has significant (p<0.05) improvement in tensile resilience, fabric extensibility, compressional resistance and friction co efficient, whereas fabric thickness, linearity of tensile, surface roughness, bending and shear rigidity and their hysteresis are reduced compared to the untreated fabric. Under the Kawabata system, the Koshi (stiffness) value of the finished fabric is decreased by 1-9%. Numeri (smoothness) and Fukurami (fullness and softness) values are increased by 11-20% and 3-4% respectively compared to the untreated fabric. The variation in primary hand values are significant (p<0.05). The total hand value (THV) is also increased by 6% and 44% for the case of 40/60 and 50/50 jute/cotton union fabrics, respectively. This study confirms the possible usage of jute/cotton fabric in the apparel segment.

매염제 처리가 대나무잎과 솔잎 추출물로 염색한 직물의 물성 및 태에 미치는 영향

This research categorizes fundamental data needed to develop eco-friendly fabrics treated with bamboo leaf & pine leaf extracts. The effect of mordant on those fabrics was analyzed through the measurement of mechanical properties and the estimation of primary hand values for cotton and silk fabrics dyed with bamboo leaf and pine leaf extracts that were later treated with various mordants. When cotton was dyed with bamboo leaves and pine leaves extracts, EM, WT, 2HB, 2HG, 2HG5, LC, T, and W increased however, RT, SMD, and RC decreased compared to raw cotton fabric. The B, G, and MIU increased after mordant treatment to the dyed cotton and resulted in a stiffer and rougher cotton's hand. EM, WT, RT, MIU, WC, T, and W increased (in terms of silk); however, LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HG5, MMD, SMD, and LC decreased compared to raw silk fabric. Similar to the dyed cotton, mordant treatment increased the MIU and LC of dyed silk subsequently, the hand became stiffer and rougher. A greater tannin adsorption results in an increased mechanical property and the primary hand value. For both fabrics, mordant treatment made its smoothness drop. However, the scale of drop for cotton was significant, while the scale of the drop for silk was minor. In terms of type of mordant, femordant and natural-mordant treatment influenced the tensile, shear, surface properties of fabrics, and primary hand values more than Cu-mordant and synthetic-mordant in addition, this increased the stiffness, hardness, and roughness of fabrics.

흡습유연 처리에 의한 PET 소재의 성능 변화 분석

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

은나노 코팅이 면직물의 역학적 특성과 태에 미치는 영향

This study examined the difference in the mechanical properties of cotton fabrics treated with nano silver. Nano silver powder, UV-absorber, and DMDHEU are applied to cotton fabrics. The reagents added in a finishing solution were Triton X-100 and . The mechanical properties of the fabrics were measured by KES-FB system. From these, the primary hand values were evaluated by the conversion equation (KN-202-DS). The results of this study are summarized as follows. The fabric tensile properties and bending properties are increased by the application of nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed. The values of tensile properties in the warp direction were significantly lower than those in the weft direction. However, the values of bending properties in the warp direction were higher than those in the weft direction. The differences in the values of compression parameters by nano silver coating were unnoticeable. However, the compression energy and resilience of compression in each fabric was increased by DMDHEU treatment. The SMD values of cotton fabrics are decreased by nano silver, DMDHEU, and UV-absorber mixed treatment.

Stepwise regression studies on fabric mechanical blocks in wool/wool blend fabrics

The stepwise regression analysis identified two mechanical blocks (from a total of six) that are needed to explain 99% of total hand value for winter suit fabrics in terms of fabric smoothness/sleekness and fullness/softness. These two fabric mechanical blocks are surface and compression properties. For summer suit fabrics, three mechanical blocks, namely, surface properties, tensile properties and bending properties, are sufficient to explain the primary hand values of crispness, hardness and fullness/softness.

Optimization Aspects on the Hand of the Fabrics

Fabric hand is an essential property of textile fabrics. It affects the sensorial perception of humans when they touch a fabric. The feeling of hand depends on many factors; mainly on the low stress mechanical behavior of the fabric as well as on the subjective aspects of the person assessing the fabric such as sensitivity, culture, etc. The hand of the fabrics can be approached either by subjective estimations or by objective measurements. Both evaluation methods provide the necessary information for the calculation of the total hand value (THV) of the fabric. The THV is a function of multiple variables: the primary hand values. The complex expression of the THV introduces difficulties in predicting the conditions for the maximization of its final value. The present work provides a mathematical tool for a parametric study and definition of the quantities, which have to change, in order to maximize the THV of the fabric.

Objective Hand Measurement of Toilet Paper

This study investigates the objective hand evaluation of the toilet paper based on the mechanical and surface properties. The objective hand evaluation system for men's suiting was applied to assess the hand of toilet paper. Three primary hand values (stiffness, smoothness, and fullness) for the toilet paper were obtained using the same equations as the men's suiting equations (KN101W series) with minor modification. The objective hand value (Total hand value, THV) of the toilet paper was derived using the general nonwovens equation (KN5LNW). The subjective hand of the toilet papers was assessed by fifty-four females, and the mechanical and surface parameters were measured with the KES-FB system. It became clear that the hand of the toilet paper could be predicted by the equation KN5LNW, for which the calculated error was within the range of the standard deviation of the subjective hand value of each product. Toilet papers with a small value of the mean deviation of the coefficient of friction (MMD) were estimated to provide good hand.

Objective Hand Measurement of Nonwoven Fabrics Used for the Top Sheets of Disposable Diapers

This study investigates the objective hand evaluation of top sheet materials used for disposable diapers based on their mechanical and surface properties. Previous experience has shown that a system for men's suiting is also useful for other materials, so we have used this system to assess the hand of top sheet nonwovens in terms of three primary hand values (stiffness, smoothness, and fullness). The equations for the men's suiting hand are modified such that each of the mechanical parameters substituted into these equations is normalized by using the respective mean value and standard deviation of the top sheet nonwoven population. The objective hand value of the top sheets is derived using both the men's suiting and general nonwovens equations. The subjective hand of the top sheets is assessed by students, and the mechanical and surface parameters are measured with the KES-FB system. It is clear that the hand of the top sheet nonwovens can be predicted by the equation developed for general nonwovens, for which the calculated error is within the range of the standard deviation of the subjective hand value of each product. Correlations between the hand of the disposable diapers and calculated hand of its top sheet nonwoven are also examined. The primary hand value of smoothness of the top sheets serves as a useful indicator for estimating the diaper's hand.