Ply Yarn Research Articles

Active‐Textile Yarns and Embroidery Enabled by Wet‐Spun Liquid Crystalline Elastomer Filaments

AbstractLiquid crystal elastomers (LCEs) are promising candidates for creating adaptive textile‐based devices that can actively and reversibly respond to the environment for sensing and communication. Despite recent advances in scalable manufacturing of LCE filaments for textile engineering, the actuation modes of various LCE filaments focus on contractual deformations. In this study, manufacture of polydomain LCE filaments with potential scalability by wet‐spinning is studied, followed by mechanical exploitation to program liquid crystal mesogen alignments, demonstrating both contractual and twisting actuation profiles. By plying these LCE filaments into yarns with different twist concentrations, yarn actuation, and mechanical performance is tuned. Yarns plied at 4 twists per cm can generate up to a seven‐fold increase in elastic modulus while maintaining 90% of actuation strain performance from their native filament. The contractual and twisting LCE filaments are then embroidered with varying stitch types to spatially program complex 2D‐to‐3D transformations in “inactive” fabrics. It is shown that a running stitch can actuate up to 15% in strain and create angular displacements in fabric with twisted mesogen alignments. It is envisioned that the wet‐spun polydomain LCE filaments for diverse plied yarn production together with textile engineering will open new opportunities to design smart textiles and soft robotics.

Optimization of Process Parameters Based on Machine Learning and Determination of Relative Importance of Process Variables on Jute Ply Yarn Breaking Extension

The breaking extension of jute ply yarn is comparatively low and ordinarily varies from 1.5 – 3.5% depending upon the process parameters like number of plies, single yarn twist factor and ply to single yarn twist ratio. To achieve various levels of jute ply yarn breaking extension within the above range, optimization of the three process variables was done in this study using a machine learning-based decision tree. For such optimization, twenty-seven different types of jute ply yarns were produced using three levels of singles' twist factor, number of ply and ply-to-single twist ratio. A total of 216 observed breaking extension values of these yarns were used for regression-based machine learning wherein 67% of test data were used to train the mode and the remaining 33% of test data were used for validation. An 8-node decision tree thus achieved from the model was used for the optimization process. A boxplot vs. terminal node graph was also used for classified optimization of ply breaking extension for various levels. The study conducted in this work reveals that the breaking extension of jute ply yarn varies directly with the number of plies, where 4-ply jute yarn produces maximum breaking extension and 2-ply produces the minimum. It was also observed that the decision tree was useful for the judicial selection of process parameters to achieve various levels of jute ply yarn breaking extension, wherein, it was found that the critical values for ply to single yarn twist ratio and single yarn twist factor were 0.80 and 26. The study also shows that apart from the individual influence of the variables on the breaking extension of ply yarns, interactions between variables also influence the breaking extension of jute ply yarn.

A novel shell‐based hierarchical multiscale model for studying three‐dimensional four‐directional braided composite shafts

AbstractThe mechanical properties of three‐dimensional (3D) braided composites are related to damage evolution. However, the multi‐scale damage mechanism of 3D braided composite shafts remains unclear. The main purpose of this article is to propose a shell‐based multiscale finite element model for effectively predicting the compressive and torsional properties of 3D four‐directional (3D4d) braided composite shafts. Considering the relation between equivalent ply angles and yarn structures, the multiscale model was developed based on a universal tubular unit cell. The equivalent ply angle was derived through the yarns' local braiding and horizontal orientation angles, and the elastic properties of each equivalent ply were derived through the stiffness averaging method. Both derivations were achieved by creatively utilizing deformation gradient theory and Nanson's formula from continuum mechanics. LaRC04 failure criteria and energy‐based damage evolution law were implemented to characterize the equivalent UD‐ply's damage behaviors. The proposed model was validated experimentally, and good agreements were observed between the failure morphologies and load–displacement curves of FEA and experimental results. The results show that the fiber tension and compression damages are the major failure modes of 3D4d braided composite shafts under compressive and torque loads, respectively. Finally, a parametric study was carried out and compared with that from other literature to clarify the meaning of this article in relevant studies. It provides an efficient and useful tool for the design and manufacturing of 3D4d braided composite shafts with desirable mechanical properties.Highlights A shell‐based hierarchical multiscale model is developed for 3D braided composite shafts. An analyzing method is developed to investigate the tubular yarn structures. A large‐scale torsional experimental scheme is developed.

Investigation of the effects of some pile yarn parameters on crucial properties of towels

In the present study, it was aimed to investigate the effects of some pile properties on the crucial parameters for a towel such as hydrophility, handle and surface appearance. For this aim, different 18 terry fabric samples were produced by changing the pile/ground ratio, spinning systems, and situation of using plied pile yarn or single pile yarn. The produced terry fabrics were applied finishing processes to have finished-towels. Then, domestic washing processes were carried out to the towels. The raw (unwashed) and washed towels were investigated via water absorbency, objective handle (stiffness), subjective handle (questionnaire study), dimensional change, and qualitive surface evaluations tests. The results showed that the investigated pile properties had varying significance on the hydrophility, handle, and surface appearance while their effects were not crucial on the dimensional change of the towels.

Assessing the height, width and other parameters of elliptical yarn cross-section through the thickness of orthogonal fabrics

This research focuses to assess the height, width, and other parameters of the elliptical yarn cross-section of woven fabrics through the new methodology. Hence this research studies the Elliptical Cross-Section of the yarn through the orthogonal fabric. Because in orthogonal fabric, the weft series stay straight. The samples of orthogonal weaves are produced using different counts of weft yarns. The thicknesses of orthogonal fabrics are estimated. The method of calculating the height of yarn from the thickness of the orthogonal fabric is evolved. The height of different counts of weft yarns used in weaving the orthogonal fabrics is calculated. From the height of the yarn, the width of the yarn is calculated. The height and width of the yarn are compared with the diameter. The comparison shows that the cross-section of the yarn remains elliptical in the fabric. The equations for calculating the flattening and bulging percentages are derived. It is observed that these two percentages are equal. It shows that when the yarn cross-section becomes elliptical in the fabric, the amount of flattening makes the yarn get bulge to the same amount in its width. The constant of height and constant of width are also derived. These constants are equated with the constants of diameter. The study also derived the equation to calculate the height and width of the elliptical cross-section of the given yarn count using the constants. The height, width, and diameter of different yarn counts are compared. The increase/decrease in flattening percentage between the coarser-finer yarns, single–2 ply yarns, and single-folded yarns are examined. It is suggested that the height and width of yarn assessed from the thickness are used to assess the other specifications viz. crimp percentage, cover percentage, and GSM of the fabrics.

Prediction of fabric pilling tendency based on blended worsted fabric construction

This article investigates a comparison between three different models to predict pilling rates of blended worsted fabrics using the ICI box testing method. Regression analysis was used to relate between weft yarn counts, picks per inch, fabric weave structure and pilling rates. Based on three different selected materials of weft yarns, a coding system was established to differentiate between single and plied weft yarn counts. The results showed an independent equation for every model, whereas the R-square values were acceptable for all models. Furthermore, fabric weave structure was found as the closest variable affecting pilling rates in two models when considering the value of coefficient of correlation.

Engineering the geometry of novel yarns for flexible, hybrid composites Part II: Maximising the tensile properties

Part I of this study established the concept and built the theoretical basis for a novel composite yarn. Part II deals with practical aspects of producing the yarn structural parameters necessary for flexible textile composite uses. This study investigates how to maximise the number of breaks of the core or foundation component of the yarn by using the design of experiment method. The results have shown that the number of these breaks vary between 1.4 and 6 times in comparison with only one break that would result from a typical conventional ply yarn. The analysis of the results indicates that a low overfeed ratio of 121% of the undulating component can lead to ∼4.7 breaks of the foundation component in comparison with only ∼2.6 breaks that would result using an overfeed ratio of 158%. To increase the number of breaks of the foundation component, it is necessary to use a high number of wraps, a low overfeed ratio, more than one input yarn for the foundation component and an undulating component of high tensile strength, which enhances its synergy with the foundation component by self-locking during breaking. Increasing the number of breaks of the yarn enhances the performance and safety of flexible composites.

Tribological behavior and film-forming mechanism of a polytetrafluoroethylene/polyester fabric composite

PurposeThe purpose of this study is to determine the tribological behavior and wear mechanism of a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)/polyester (PET) fabric composite for application as a self-lubricating liner suitable for high-speed and low-load friction conditions.Design/methodology/approachThe effects of different loads and sliding speeds on the friction coefficients and wear characteristics of the composite were studied using reciprocating friction tests. Scanning electron microscopy, extended depth-of-field microscopy, and energy-dispersive X-ray spectrometry was used to analyze the worn surface morphology, wear depth and elemental content of the lubrication films, respectively.FindingsThe friction coefficient curves of the composites presented a long-term steady wear stage under different sliding conditions. With increasing sliding speed, the friction coefficient and wear depth of the composite slowly increased. The film-forming mechanism of the composite revealed that the PTFE/PET ply yarn on the composite surface formed complete PTFE lubrication films at the initial sliding stage.Originality/valueThe PTFE/PET fabric composite maintained good friction stability and high-speed adaptability, which demonstrates that the composite has broad application prospects as a highly reliable self-lubricating bearing liner with a long lifespan.

Effect of Different Yarn Combinations on Auxetic Properties of Plied Yarns

Abstract This study presents the effects of a novel plied yarn structure consisting of different yarn components and yarn twist levels on the Poisson's ratio and auxetic behavior of yarns. The plied yarn structures are formed with bulky and soft yarn components (helical plied yarn [HPY], braided yarn, and monofilament latex yarn) and stiff yarn components (such as high tenacity [HT] and polyvinyl chloride [PVC]-coated polyester yarns) to achieve auxetic behavior. Experimental results showed that as the level of yarn twist increased, the Poisson's ratios and the tensile modulus values of the plied yarns decreased, but the elongation values increased. A negative Poisson's ratio (NPR) was obtained in HT–latex and PVC–latex plied yarns with a low twist level. The plied yarns formed with braid–HPY and braid–braid components gave partial NPR under tension. A similar result was achieved for yarns with HT–latex and PVC–latex components. Since partial NPR was seen in novel plied yarns with braided and HPY components, it is concluded that yarns formed with bulky–bulky yarn components could give an auxetic performance under tension.

Advanced textile technology for fabrication of ramie fiber PLA composites with enhanced mechanical properties

Poly (lactic acid) (PLA) has been widely used in preparation of biomass composites in recent years. Ramie fiber (RFs) can be introduced as a reinforcing element to enhance the performance of PLA composites. In this study, a novel fabrication technology through the combination of two-dimensional (2D) braiding and three-dimensional (3D) weaving are used for the preparation of RF/PLA composites with optimized mechanical properties. The twist ratio of ply/single yarn, the curing parameters, and RF content are considered to optimize the mechanical properties of the 3D orthogonal woven composites (3D composites). The tensile strength of RF ply yarn composites increases firstly and then decreases with the increase of twist ratio, and reach the maximum tensile strength (60.4 MPa) when the twist ratio is 0.3. The flexural and shearing properties of the 3D RF/PLA composites reach maximum under optimal curing conditions (190 ℃, 5 MPa, 30 min) at 50% RF content. The maximum flexural strength and modulus are higher than those reported for short RF composites and RF fabric composites. The high performance and low-cost 3D RF/PLA composites have good application potential in the automobile manufacturing industry.

Cassimere: Hiding in Plain Sight

In the nineteenth century, cassimere was one of the most produced woolen fabrics in American mills. Cassimere appears in nineteenth century texts, as in George Cole’s Complete Dictionary of Dry Goods, first published in 1890. Cole describes cassimere as “the general term applied to that class of allwool cloths used for men’s clothing, woven either plain or twilled, coarse or fine of “woolen” yarn.” Cassimere is much in evidence in census reports of wool manufacture from 1837 to the early 1900s. It appears early in the twentieth century in the Thomas Register of American Manufacturers Buyers guide of 1905-06 under “Woolen goods” (after whistles, wigs, and witch hazel) and the Register lists at least 101 mills making cassimere at that time. But If you look for cassimere in the indexes of later fabric reference books, you will probably not find it, or if you do, as in the 1967 Dan River Mills Dictionary, it is defined as worsted suiting. Does this mean that it existed in the nineteenth century but is now gone? No, but it is hiding in plain sight today, mostly as a humble woolen twill. A simple draft was published in 1817 in Bronson’s Domestic Manufacturer’s Assistant, with later textile designers developing infinite variations. These included backed casssimeres, double cassimeres, diamond cassimere, Harris’s “double and twist” cassimere (using plied yarn in the warp), requiring anywhere from eight to thirty-two shafts. Fancy cassimere also included color effects such as pinwheel, houndstooth, and log cabin. Because it was not napped, the weave structure and color patterning showed clearly. Fashion moved on, and cassimere was eventually replaced by worsted and eventually synthetic fabrics. However, decades of inventiveness and the resulting trove of cassimere design ideas are still used by contemporary designers.

Influence of yarn parameters on cotton/kenaf blended yarn characteristics

Spinning kenaf fibers into yarns is challenging due to the stiffness and lack of cohesiveness of the fibers. Alkali treatment is known to remove hemicellulose, wax, and breaks down lignin, reducing stiffness of kenaf fiber and improving its spinnability. Kenaf fibers were treated at percentages of 4% and 6% and blended with cotton fibers at blend ratios of 40:60 and 50:50 prior to a ring spinning process to produce a double ply yarn of 70 tex. Yarn were twisted at three sets of twist. The responses were measured in terms of carding waste percentages and yarn strength. The results showed that the optimized yarn structural parameter is kenaf fiber treated at 6% and with a kenaf/cotton 40/60 blending ratio based on its tenacity and minimum carding waste. ANOVA shows that there is a good interaction effect between NaOH and kenaf/cotton ratio, and NaOH concentration and twist.

Wicking Behaviors of Ring and Compact-Siro Ring Spun Yarns with Different Twists

Abstract In this study, the wicking properties of ring and compact-siro ring spun staple yarns were compared. The twist level, which is related to the structure of the staple yarns, was found to significantly influence the wicking property of the two kinds of yarn. Polyester staple fibers with 1.33 dtex × 38 mm were selected as the staple fiber material, and the effect of the twist level on the wicking property was investigated using the capillary rise method. The results show that with a decreasing twist coefficient, the wicking height increases with a decrease in yarn compactness. The compact-siro spun yarn showed better wicking properties owing to it special ply yarn structure. Furthermore, the tension property of the yarns decreased significantly with a decrease in the twist coefficient. Compact-siro spinning was carried out to obtain staple yarns with lower twist coefficients, and the yarns showed great improvement in terms of yarn strength, fiber straightness, and wicking properties. Thus, compact-siro spinning is an efficient method to improve the wicking properties of staple yarns.

New computer geometric modeling approach with filament assembly model for two-ply yarns structures

This article presents a new computer geometric modelling approach for three-dimensional of two-ply yarn structures with filament assembly model. The geometric of individual filaments in two-ply yarn structures with uncompressed and compressed states were studied. In the uncompressed state the filaments in ply yarns have the form of coaxial double wound helices; we simulate the paths of these filaments in the ply yarns. In the compressed state the transformation of the initial filament distribution from the uncompressed state into the distribution after compression by a transverse force. The ply yarns cross-section uses the concept of virtual locations to simulate the filament distributions. Each cross-section is rotated along the single yarn and the ply yarn length. The curve of each filament in each two successive cross-sections is approximated by NURBS and then each curve is created by sweeping a closed curve along the centerline of the single yarn and ply yarn path. The method described is demonstrated in the uncompressed and compressed state of two-ply yarns by the CAD model using geometric parameters of the double-rove acrylic-fiber yarns. The simulation using this approach can demonstrate more realistic and improved visual simulations of real two-ply yarns.

Finite element simulation of an auxetic plied yarn structure

Auxetic plied yarn is a novel type of yarn structure formed with two types of component yarns with different moduli. Although the effect of structural parameters on its negative Poisson's ratio behavior has been investigated by both experimental and geometrical analyses, the influence of material properties, including yarn tensile modulus and friction, has not been studied yet. In this work, these two factors are further investigated via finite element simulation. The finite element model is first created by using the commercial software ANSYS 15.0. Then, the simulation results are compared with the experimental and analytical data. Finally, the effects of the tilt angle of stiff yarn, yarn friction and tensile modulus are discussed. It is expected that the outcomes of this work would be useful to guide the design and fabrication of this type of auxetic yarn structure.

Studying the Tensile Properties at the First Break of Multiple-Yarn Structure Fancy Gimp Yarns Using the Design of Experiments

ABSTRACTThis study was conducted to identify the factors and the interactions, which affect the load and elongation at the first break of gimp yarns. The experimental design had seven factors: two levels each. It was found that using two single yarns, instead of a similar ply yarn, for the core component, caused the increase of values of load and elongation at the first break. The effect component contributed positively to the load and elongation when it was a cotton yarn rather than a bamboo yarn. This study contributes to a broader understanding of process–structure–property relationships of fancy yarn.

A theoretical analysis of deformation behavior of auxetic plied yarn structure

This paper presents a theoretical analysis of the auxetic plied yarn (APY) structure formed with two types of single yarns having different diameter and modulus. A model which can be used to predict its deformation behavior under axial extension is developed based on the theoretical analysis. The developed model is first compared with the experimental data obtained in the previous study, and then used to predict the effects of different structural and material parameters on the auxetic behavior of the APY. The calculation results show that the developed model can correctly predict the variation trend of the auxetic behavior of the APY, which first increases and then decrease with the increase of the axial strain. The calculation results also indicate that the auxetic behavior of the APY simultaneously depends on the diameter ratio of the soft yarn and stiff yarn as well as the ratio between the pitch length and stiff yarn diameter. The study provides a way to design and fabricate APYs with the same auxetic behavior by using different soft and stiff yarns as long as these two ratios are kept unchanged.

Woven Fabrics Made of Auxetic Plied Yarns.

Auxetic plied yarns are specially constructed with two types of single yarns of different sizes and moduli. This paper investigates how to use these types of yarns to produce woven fabrics with auxetic effects. Four-ply auxetic yarns were first incorporated into a series of woven fabrics with different design parameters to study their auxetic behavior and percent open area during extension. Effects of auxetic plied yarn arrangement, single component yarn properties, weft yarn type, and weave structure were then evaluated. Additional double helical yarn (DHY) and 6-ply auxetic yarn woven fabrics were also made for comparison. The results show that the alternative arrangement of S- and Z-twisted 4-ply auxetic yarns in a woven fabric can generate a higher negative Poisson’s ratio (NPR) of the fabric. While the higher single stiff yarn modulus of auxetic yarn can result in greater NPR behavior, finer soft auxetic yarn does not necessarily generate such an effect. Weft yarns with low modulus and short float over the 4-ply auxetic yarns in fabric structure are favorable for producing high NPR behavior. The weft cover factor greatly affects the variation of the percent open area of the 4-ply auxetic yarn fabrics during extension. When different kinds of helical auxetic yarns (HAYs) are made into fabrics, the fabric made of DHY does not have the highest NPR effect but it has the highest percent open area, which increases with increasing tensile strain.

An optimum standard techniques of Two-For-one-Twister m/c for combed cotton yarns.

Every twisted yarn has different specifications according to end use (raw material- blend ratio- yarn count- spinning method- T.P.I- twist direction- number of single yarn). So techniques of Two-For-one-Twister spindle must be changed with every item for example : The Tensor Device content (Spring Type- Tension Dial- Break Disk- Washer Tensor), Balloon Guide Rod, Over Feed Roller, Tension Ball Bearing (Guide Roller) and T.F.O Spindles Speed. With every item must make many experimental work to defined all these techniques exactly and produce plied yarn with regular T.P.I to prevent snarl, in addition to techniques of Two-For-one-Twister spindle are different according to m/c company (country mad in). Industrial establishment produce every day a lot of combed cotton plied yarns with different specifications and to avoid mistakes thinking to create database using to obtain right data of previous standard techniques to every plied combed cotton yarn two- fold, three fold and four fold. By this method safe time, effort and money using three different types of (T.F.O) m/c Lee Wha m/c, Murata m/c, Volkmann m/c and Definition the best one for combed cotton plied yarns through physical and mechanical properties of produced yarns. Objectives : Design database for optimum standard techniques of Two-For-One-Twister spindle on three different types of machines using the majority of combed cotton plied yarns (two- fold, three fold and four fold). Save time, efforts and avoid production mistakes, thus increase performance level due to several techniques of Two-For-One-Twister spindle and several items of combed cotton plied yarns. Definition the best type of Two-For-One-Twister m/c suitable for combed cotton plied yarns through physical and mechanical properties of pied- twisted yarns that increase product quality and achieve functional performance. Methodology : experimental and analytical methods. Results : Using optimum standard techniques of Two-For-one-Twister database save time, efforts and prevent production mistakes that increase performance level. Volkmann VTS 09 M/C the best type of Two-For-One-Twister m/c suitable for combed plied cotton yarns through physical and mechanical properties of pied- twisted yarns. Volkmann VTS 09 M/C decreased Hairiness and imperfections of ply- twisted yarns compared with Murata M/C and Lee Wha M/C. The tensile strength and breaking elongation of Plied twisted yarns used Volkmann VTS 09 M/C was higher than Murata M/C and Lee wha M/C. Volkmann VTS 09 M/C Plied- twisted yarns T.P.I regular than Murata M/C and lee Wha M/C. Optimum standard techniques of Two-For-one-Twister for combed cotton yarns (Z/S) is the same with combed cotton yarns (S/Z).

Research on qualities of spun-silk fabrics by FLCS

PurposeAs one natural fiber, spun silk is one of the top-grade textile materials and has attracted more and more attentions on textile processing. The purpose of this paper is to introduce one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, four-line compact spinning (FLCS), into the silk spinning, and study and comparatively analyze corresponding yarn and fabric qualities.Design/methodology/approachFirst, two kinds of spun silk and viscose blend yarns, 120 Nm (8.3 tex) and 205 Nm (4.9 tex), were spun on the common ring spinning frame FK501 and spinning frame modified by FLCS, respectively. Then, after the plying and singeing procedures, the ply yarns 120 and 205 Nm/2 were produced. The evenness, breaking strength, and hairiness of the spun bobbin yarns and ply yarns were tested and comparatively analyzed. Then, properties of corresponding woven fabric, including the weight, thickness, permeability, stiffness, softness, smoothness, draping, wrinkle recovery, hand-touching (RHV), were measured and comparatively analyzed.FindingsFor the spun yarns, it is shown that by using the compact spinning method, the comprehensive quality of spun-silk blend bobbin and ply yarns are improved. For the fabrics, it is shown that compared with the fabric made of ring yarn, the weight and thickness of fabric made of compact yarn decreased, and the air permeability of fabric increased, but the difference is tiny. Meanwhile, the stiffness, smoothness of fabric made of compact yarn increased slightly, but the softness decreased slightly, leading to a little worse fabric hand-touching.Originality/valueIn the paper, one kind of pneumatic compact spinning, FLCS, was introduced into the silk spinning, and corresponding yarn and fabric qualities were studied and comparatively analyzed.