Plain Jersey Research Articles

Effect of knitting structure and dyeing process on drying time, air and vapor permeability

Comfort is the prime need in clothing. It is affected by the properties of fibers, yarns, and fabrics. A good understanding of these factors is essential in the design and conception of functional clothes. Fabric design serves as a manufacturing tool to meet several end-use requirements. The construction specifications and design of knitted fabrics greatly influence the comfort level of the end-use garment. This study aims to investigate the effect of the knitting stitch type and the dyeing process on the clothing comfort of knitted fabrics. For this purpose, five structures were prepared by combining plain, float and tuck stitches: plain jersey, cross miss 1 × 1, single cross tuck, weft lock knit and Lacoste. Then, yellow, and black dyeing were applied. The investigated wear comfort properties were the drying time, the air permeability and the relative water vapor permeability. Tests were conducted on the finished and on domestically washed fabrics. The data obtained were statistically evaluated with Pearson correlation, paired t-test, analysis of variance analysis and the Tukey test. The results showed that tucked fabrics have the longest drying time combined with the lowest air and water vapor permeability. Black variants showed better drying behavior and higher water vapor permeability. Analysis of variance results showed that the structure has a significant effect on clothing comfort. However, the dyeing process exerts a significant influence only on the drying time and the relative water vapor permeability. The paired t-test results indicate that the domestic washing cycles significantly change the drying time and the air permeability of knitted fabrics.

Investigating the effect of fabric design on properties of different weft knit fabrics

Fabric structure exhibits a significant impact on the various properties of weft knitted fabric if processing variables such as yarn count, stitch length, machine diameter, and needle gauge are modified. In this study, weft knitted constructions such plain jersey, Lacoste, waffle, fleece, and rib are evaluated in relation to a number of attributes, including dimensional stability, fabric breadth, spirality and bursting strength. According to the study, lengthwise shrinkage reduces as tuck stitch and spirality grow, however widthwise shrinkage rises. The experiment also revealed that weft knit fabric's bursting strength is less affected by variations in fabric structure.

Studies on thermal and moisture properties of novel Eri silk knitted structures

Purpose Eri is a short-stapled fibre that possesses an excellent soft feel and warmness to the wearer. Investigation of thermal comfort and moisture properties of Eri silk fabric provides the enhanced commercial scope for Eri silk-based clothing. Design/methodology/approach To examine the impact of process factors on thermal and moisture properties, three different single knit Eri silk structures were made, each with a different loop length and yarn count. Three different linear densities of Eri silk spun yarn (15, 20 and 25 tex) were selected. Three distinct knitted constructions, including plain jersey, popcorn and cellular blister, were created, along with two different loop lengths. Findings The novel cellular blister structure has shown appreciable thermal comfort properties than the other two structures. Yarn fineness and loop length were significant with most of the thermal comfort properties. Research limitations/implications In recent times the Eri silk production is completely domesticated, so the new demand can easily be met by the producers. This research will create a new scope for Eri silk fibres in sportswear and leisure wear. Originality/value This study was conducted to explore the influence of knit structure, loop length and yarn count on the thermal comfort properties of the clothing.

Evaluating width-wise contraction of different cotton single knit structures due to the positioning of tuck and miss loops at different locations in the structural repeats

The contraction rates of weft knitted plain jersey fabric and some patterned single jersey fabrics with respect to machine gauge were determined. Fabric samples were knitted using cotton yarn at various stitch length values on a positive feed based multi feeder circular weft knitting machine. Widthwise contraction rates of the resulting fabric samples were then calculated using the values of wales per inch and needles per inch. It was discovered that when stitch length increased, the value of the contraction rate decreased. Additionally, it was found that the knitted stitches (knit, tuck and miss) greatly impacted how much the fabric contracts. Fabric with miss stitches showed higher contraction than fabrics knitted with tuck stitches. However, knit-miss based single jersey fabrics showed less contraction than plain single jersey fabrics while all courses are knitted at the same course length value. It was also observed that contraction rates also change due to different positioning of tuck and miss loops in the patterned structures.

Thermal Resistance of Gray Modal and Micromodal Socks

Abstract Men's socks were produced on a Lonati circular knitting machine in 18 different combinations in multi-plated plain jersey from basic modal and basic micro modal yarn with the addition of cotton or PA multifilament yarn and elastane yarn in the sock cuff. The modal and micromodal yarns were ring-spun, rotor-spun and air-spun; they consist of 38 mm long staple fibres with a fineness of 1.3 and 1.0 dtex respectively. Thermal resistance was determined by use of the thermal foot. The thermal resistance values for all socks samples range from 0.0091 to 0.01586 m2 °C W−1. The highest thermal resistance per groups of basic modal fibres was obtained in the samples made of air-jet spun yarn of 0.0132 m2 °C W−1 and the lowest in samples of rotor yarn of 0.0109 m2 °C W−1. The highest thermal resistance in all groups of basic micromodal samples made of ring yarn (0.0132 m2 °C W−1) and the lowest in the samples made of air-spun yarn (0.0099 m2 °C W−1). At low levels of thermal resistance, as the thickness of the sample of basic modal and micro modal fibres of ring and rotor yarns increases, the thermal resistance of socks increases with a correlation coefficient of 0.711. The tested sock samples have low thermal resistance, i.e. they can conduct heat better than the sock leg, thus achieving cooling and comfort, which is important for wearing socks in warm weather.

Study of superhydrophobicity according to surface structure of knitted fabrics

This study seeks to analyze the effect of geometric structures of weft-knitted fabrics on superhydrophobicity and the dynamic behavior of water droplets. A flat knitting machine with different stitch patterns was used to prepare 100% polyester knitted fabrics. For the superhydrophobic surface, nano-roughness through alkaline treatment and a hydrophobic coating were introduced on prepared knitted fabrics. To analyze micro-roughness, pore size, cover factor, surface roughness, and air permeability were measured. Surface wettability was evaluated by contact and shedding angle measurements, and the dynamic behavior of droplets. Micro-roughness was greater in the order of tuck, purl, and plain jersey stitch patterns with a small cover factor and large pore size. In addition, tuck and purl stitches showed differences in surface roughness according to the wale and course directions. Nano-roughness was discernible as the alkaline treatment time increased. Following an evaluation of the wettability, the purl stitches exhibited a contact angle of 150° or more with only the hydrophobic coating. After imparting nano-roughness by alkaline treatment, the contact angle was more than 150° in all the samples. In the case of shedding angle, the tuck and purl stitches showed differences according to the course and wale directions. The shedding angle was lower when the roughness was high and the ridge and the droplet sliding directions were parallel. This difference decreased as the nano-roughness increased according to the alkaline treatment time. An evaluation of the dynamic behavior of water droplets on the superhydrophobic knitted fabric showed that rebound behavior appeared in all the samples on the horizontal surface, when the water droplet was small. However, with large droplets, the rebound behavior appeared only in purl stitches. Meanwhile, on the surface inclined at 15°, rebound behavior was observed in the tuck and purl stitches, with the tuck stitches rebounding faster in the wale direction and the purl stitches in the course direction regardless of the droplet volume. The plain jersey stitches showed pinning behavior after water droplets fell on the surface. Therefore, it is important not only to introduce nano-roughness but also properly to form geometrical micro-roughness of knitted fabric with pores and loops to induce rebound behavior of water droplets.

An Approach to Estimate Dye Concentration of Domestic Washing Machine Wastewater

Abstract This article focuses on developing a methodology which can be used to estimate the concentration of dyestuff released from textiles during domestic laundering, so that further studies involving decolorization of the wastewater from domestic washing machine can be conducted in an attempt to develop eco-friendly domestic washing processes. Due to the complexity of the problem, an approach was adopted so that, as an initial step, synthetic red and blue reactive dye solutions were prepared as representative wastewater solutions using Reactive Red 195 and Reactive Blue 19 dyestuffs for the estimation of dye concentration. This was followed by an experimental work consisting of washing tests involving the calculation of dye concentration in the wastewater obtained from domestic washing machine as well as tergotometer as a machine simulator. For this part of the work, dyed cotton plain jersey fabric samples were used to obtain wastewater solutions. All the dye solutions and the wastewater samples were measured with VIS spectrophotometer, and the maximum absorbance values were obtained at relevant wavelengths. Although the characteristics of absorbance spectra of synthetic and wastewater solutions were very different, the maximum absorbance values of both solutions overlapped at relevant wavelengths. The concentration of the dyestuff was calculated from the absorbance values measured at 540 and 592 nm for the red and blue, respectively. The statistical analysis of the data suggested that tergotometer can be used as a domestic washing machine simulator. Moreover, the regression analysis done for the dyestuff concentration under discussion revealed that the most significant factor was the washing step (main wash or rinsing) (89.5%) followed by color (red or blue) (3.4%) and washing device (washing machine or tergotometer) (1.5%).

The Assessment of Finishing Properties on the Mass per Unit Area, Pilling, Bursting Strength, and Wicking Behavior of Polyester Weft-Knitted Jersey Fabric

Finishes bring an alteration to the physical and comfort properties of the textiles. That’s why various finishes are used to impart various functionalities to the fabric surface. However, it may also affect some properties. The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of various finishes on pilling, mass per unit area, bursting strength, and wicking behavior of the polyester weft-knitted jersey fabric. Herein, 100% spun polyester weft-knitted plain jersey fabric was exposed to different finish treatments to check their effect on the some physical and comfort properties of the fabric like mass per unit area, pilling behavior, bursting strength, and wicking properties of the weft-knitted jersey fabric. The fabric used was knit from 24/1, 100% spun polyester yarn on the single knit circular knitting machine. The developed fabric was washed on Fong machine. Finishes are applied on fabric by “Monofort Stanter” machine. The resultant fabric was characterized by random tumble pilling tester, bursting strength tester, and wicking tester to analyze their pilling grade, bursting strength, and wicking behavior respectively. A significant increase has been found in wicking behavior, mass per unit area, and bursting strength of the fabric after finishing treatments. Moreover, the wicking finish shows the highest reduction in pilling grade from 3.5 to 2.5. Significant improvement has been observed in bursting strength by all finish’s treatment. However, wicking finish treatment results in the highest increase in bursting strength of 4.2%. Significant improvement has been observed in the vertical wicking speed of all treatment except silicon finish which significantly reduces vertical wicking rate. However, the wicking finish (Recipe E) shows the highest increase in wicking rate by 13.75 times as compared to grey fabric.

Performance analysis of spandex incorporated single jersey fabrics for sportswear

Objectives: The main objective of this study is to substantiate the effects of spandex on the properties of plain jersey fabric as compared to the commercial knit sports wear. Method: Three single jersey plain knitted fabric samples were produced with full feeder spandex (4.45%), half feeder spandex (2.22%), and without spandex. 34/1 Ne cotton yarn and 20D spandex were used. Standard test methods were followed to analyze the fabric properties. ASTM D 3774: 2004, ISO 6330:2012, ISO 12945-2, ISO 12947-1:1998 and ISO 13938- 1:1999 methods were used to measure the variation between cotton and cotton/spandex plain jersey fabric, different physical properties in particular GSM, width, abrasion resistance, pilling, bursting strength, and shrinkage of the specimens. Findings: The physical, dimensional, and mechanical properties of cotton/spandex plain jersey knitted fabrics were investigated. The results were compared between knitted fabrics made from 100% cotton and spandex with cotton. The effect of spandex percentage was also studied. A significant effect was observed on the physical, dimensional, and mechanical behaviors of single jersey fabric. Results revealed that the GSM, shrinkage, abrasion resistance, and bursting strength increased and the width reduced with the increased amount of spandex percentage. No apparent effect on the pilling resistance was observed. Applications: The manufactured spandex incorporated knitted fabrics can be found in a wide range of applications. The main endeavor is to use for active sportswear. Keywords: Bursting strength; cotton yarn; pilling resistance; spandex; single jersey; sportswear

Effect of Lycra percentage on the physical properties of single jersey weft knitted fabric

This research studies the effect of increase percentage of Lycra yarns during loop formation on the geometrical, physical mechanical properties of plain jersey fabrics. Samples with 100% cotton yarns, Lycra yarns in alternating courses (half feeder) and Lycra yarn in every courses (full feeder) were produced on a circular knitting machine, the two later cases were produced at five different levels of Lycra extension. Thermal setting was carried out without any traverse tension during finishing thus evaluates the full effect of Lycra extension. Results show a sharp increase in the course density rather than the wales density. Fabric thickness and weight per unit area also increased and air permeability in the case of the half and full plating fabrics decreased considerably. The breaking load and extension also increased while the initial electricity modulus decreased with an increase in abrasion resistance in the case of full plating. A comparison between half and full feeder methods contribute improving fabric quality by determining optimal Lycra percentage.

Experimental Research on Textile and Non-Textile Materials with Applications to Ensure Electromagnetic and Bio-Electromagnetic Compatibility

Abstract The paper presents a synthesis of the research performed on the electromagnetic properties and characterization of textile and non-textile materials with applications in shielding and protection from the electromagnetic field. The composite structures of functional textiles intended for protective clothing or general applications for electromagnetic immunity are presented and characterized. There are analyzed composite textiles with amorphous, ferrous or non-ferromagnetic metallic threads manufactured by means of woven and knitting classical technologies as well as materials using non-metallic, electrically conductive powders. The properties of the plain jersey, rib jersey, full and half cardigan fabric, Milano rib, are presented, too. Besides textiles, there are also characterized some composite and non-composite structures using metallic yarns and carbon powder. Another direction of interest relates to the use of textile materials with amorphous metal structure with the scope of achieving a more efficient protection to the electromagnetic fields used in cellular systems and Wi-Fi networks. In addition, a comparative analysis of the methods of characterization of composite structures is made.

The effect of three-layer weft knitted material structure and composition upon performance properties

The effect of three-layer weft knitted spacer material content and structure upon the characteristics of uniaxial tension, biaxial punching before and after fatigue punching, and at multi cycle low-stress (wearing level) punching were investigated. Three different spacer structures were knitted using four types of the same 20 tex linear density spun yarns. For three-layer weft knitted samples, innovative fibers, which are used in the production of functional clothing, were selected: Coolplus® 100% polyester (PES); Trevira CS® 100% PES; 60% PES; 40%PES, 60% PES with 0.02% carbon fiber and 67% cotton, 33% PES with 0.02% carbon fiber. It was defined that the samples, which have a plain jersey knitting pattern in the face and back layers, and a similar position of spacer yarns on the dial and cylinder needles, have the highest values of mass per unit area, but 1 × 1 tuck stitches in the face layer have a greater effect for material thickness. Besides, 1 × 1 tuck stitches in the face layer have a greater effect upon the uniaxial behavior and anisotropy of three-layer weft knitted spacer materials than on spacer yarn position in the connecting layer. The investigations of biaxial fatigue punching up to 50 N, which corresponds to wearing conditions, showed that the most stable and less deformable materials were the three-layer weft knitted spacer materials with a plain jersey knitting pattern in the face and back layers and a similar position of spacer yarns on the dial and cylinder needles. They also were characterized by the highest mass per unit area and medium thickness.

The Effect of Bonded Seams upon Spatial Behaviour of Knitted Materials Systems

Spatial behaviour of knitted materials with bonded seams under biaxial tensile loading is analysed in this work. The objects of the research were plain jersey and rib 1×1 polyester knitted materials with elastane (93 % PES, 7 % EL). Two thermoplastic polyurethane (PU) films different in thickness (75 mm and 150 mm) were used. For each sample of knitted material and thermoplastic film five types of bonded seams (10 mm in length) were prepared by changing the orientation of knitted material strips, i.e. parallel/parallel, parallel/bias, parallel/perpendicular, bias/bias and bias/perpendicular. The effect of thermoplastic films type and the effect of knitted materials orientation in seam was analysed on the basis of biaxial tensile characteristics – critical punching force P (N) and corresponding punching height H (mm). The changes of tested specimens strength and deformation properties were compared before and after their cyclical fatigue punching (50 cycles; punching force P = 50 N). Obtained results have shown that changes before and after cyclical fatigue punching are mostly determined by the type of thermoplastic film, but not effected by the orientation of knitted materials pieces in bonded seam.

Development of seersucker knitted fabric for better comfort properties and aesthetic appearance

Seersucker is a thin puckered woven fabric in which some threads bunched together, giving a wrinkled appearance in place. Conventionally seersucker fabric is produced on weaving machines with some special warp tensioning devices. The aim of this work was to develop knitted seersucker fabric on single cylinder weft knitting machine using plain jersey structure. Core spun cotton yarn and cotton plain yarn of same linear density were fed at regular intervals to the feeders on the machine. The produced sample has a regular puckering stripe along the width of the fabric with same height. Air permeability and moisture management tests of wet processed samples were performed. The results indicated that the knitted seersucker fabric has good comfort properties as well as better aesthetic appearance.

Development of cotton-rich/polylactic acid fiber blend knitted fabrics for sports textiles

In this study, the moisture and thermal transmission properties of cotton/polylactic acid-blended knitted fabrics were studied. Cotton and polylactic acid fibers were blended to produce yarns of 14.7 tex (40 s Ne) with two different blend proportions. The yarns were then knitted into plain jersey structures, followed by scouring and bleaching treatments. The produced fabrics were evaluated for dynamic moisture transport properties using SDL Atlas moisture management tester. The moisture vapor transmission rate of developed fabrics was measured using the dish method, and the thermal properties were measured using KES Thermolabo instrument. Results indicate that blending of polylactic acid fibers with cotton fibers improve the moisture management properties of the resultant fabric. The overall moisture management capability values were found to be better for cotton/polylactic acid fiber 65:35 blended fabric. A marginal improvement was observed only in the case of cotton/polylactic acid fiber 80:20 blended fabric. The moisture vapor transmission and air permeability of blended fabrics were also found to be higher than those of 100% cotton fabric. The thermal conductivity, insulation, and warm–cool feel values of blended fabrics range between 100% cotton and 100% polylactic acid fiber fabrics. This type of fabric is more suitable for use as sportswear and active wear.

Analysis of current running sock structures with regard to blister prevention

In this paper, in-shoe blister formation during running is analyzed and possibilities to reduce these cutaneous lesions by appropriate sock properties are discussed. Six types of cotton-made athletic socks were studied in order to evaluate the influence of the knitted structure on the sock-to-skin friction (terry jersey, plain jersey, and non-raised jersey duffel structures). The contact conditions between a running shoe and foot areas prone to friction blisters were simulated using a linear reciprocating tribometer, and the friction behavior of the socks in contact with a mechanical skin model was investigated. In additional experiments, the shock absorption properties of the socks were measured. Among the investigated socks, the terry jersey fabric knitted in a specific process and a dense, tight jersey structure, i.e. a plain jersey knitted with two yarns, were found to be most suitable for running socks.

Hand evaluation of clothing fabrics from new biodegradable fibres

PurposeThe purpose of this research is to perform instrumental comparison of hand parameters of knitted fabrics produced from different biodegradable fibres and to analyze peculiarities of hand parameters' extent influenced by fabric structure and chemical softening.Design/methodology/approachThe hand of five types of different biodegradable fabrics was evaluated. Experiments were performed using a method based on the principle of specimen biaxial punching deformation when a disc‐shaped specimen is extracted through a round nozzle. The Influence of fabric weave (terry and plain jersey) and finishing (padding with the silicone softener “Belfasin SI”) on the fabric hand was investigated.FindingsInvestigations have shown that weave type and finishing significantly influenced fabric hand properties. It was also stated that even tenuous differences between fabric parameters could be obtained by one numeral value of complex hand rate Q.Practical implicationsExperiments have shown that KTU–Griff–Tester is a simple, reliable instrumental device suitable to obtain quantitative information about fabric mechanical properties. Evaluation of finishing influence on a fabric hand could be precisely expressed by one parameter Q.Originality/valueIn the present research quantitative evaluation of new fabrics from biodegradable fibres hand was performed. Comparison between new biodegradable and traditional cotton fabrics has shown that new biodegradable fibres which are generally used for underwear, sportswear and for medical application are characterized by soft hand, as a result a good affinity with skin.

Effect of fabric softener on properties of a single jersey knitted fabric made of cotton and spandex yarn

PurposeThe purpose of this research is to study the effect of softener treatment on plain jersey fabrics with properties made of cotton and spandex yarn.Design/methodology/approachSamples with 100 percent cotton yarns, spandex yarns in alternating courses (half plating) and spandex yarns in every courses (full plating) were produced on a circular knitting machine where the two latter cases were produced at five different levels of spandex extension. After the dyeing process, fabrics were treated with fabric softener using two softener types (cationic and silicon) and all type two concentrations (3 percent, 6 percent) to evaluate the most appropriate softener type and concentration on fabric friction force, sewing needle penetration force and weight loss percent under different levels of spandex extension.FindingsResults showed that silicon softener treatment results in high decreases in fabric sewing needle penetrating force, friction force and while treatment with cationic softener results in high decreases in weight loss percent for 100 percent cotton, half and full plating fabrics.Originality/valueThere is a growing need to study the effect of softeners when spandex yarns are used in the production of knitted fabric which results in high increase of stitch density. This research compares the effects of two different softener types at different concentrations on the properties of both plain jersey fabric produced from 100 percent cotton yarns and from cotton/spandex yarns with different stitch density.

Effect of Lycra Extension Percent on Single Jersey Knitted Fabric Properties

This research studies the effect of extension increase percent of bare Lycra yarns during loop formation on the geometrical, physical and mechanical properties of plain jersey fabrics. Samples with 100% cotton yarns, Lycra yarns in alternating courses (half plating) and Lycra yarns in every course (full plating) were produced on a circular knitting machine. The two latter cases were produced at five different levels of Lycra extension. Thermal setting was carried out without any traverse tension during finishing, thus evaluating the full effect of Lycra extension. Results show a sharp increase in the courses density rather than the wales density. Fabric thickness and weight per unit area also increased, and air permeability in the case of the half and full plating fabrics decreased considerably. The breaking load and extension also increased, while the initial elasticity modulus decreased with an increase in abrasion resistance in the case of full plating. A comparison between half and full plating methods contributes to improving fabric quality by determining optimal Lycra percentage.

Effect of Fabric Softener on Properties of a Single Jersey Knitted Fabric Made of Cotton and Spandex Yarn

This research studies the effect of softener treatment on plain jersey fabrics properties made of cotton and spandex yarn. Samples with 100% cotton yarns, spandex yarns in alternating courses (half plating) and spandex yarns in every courses (full plating) were produced on a circular knitting machine where the two latter cases were produced at five different levels of spandex extension. After dyeing process, fabrics were treated with fabric softener using two softener types (cationic and silicon) and all type two concentrations (3%, 6%) to evaluate the most appropriate softener type and concentration on fabric friction force, sewing needle penetration force and weight loss % under different level of spandex extension. Results showed that silicon softener treatment results in high decreases in fabric sewing needle penetrating force, friction force and while treatment with cationic softener results in high decreases in weight loss % for 100% cotton, half and full plating fabrics.