Piece Of Cloth Research Articles

Textiles as Product and Symbol. Ritual Gift Exchange Among the Karakalpaks and its Central Asian Parallels

This article focuses on the structure, content, and symbolic form of gift exchange practices among the Karakalpaks in the 20th and early 21st centuries, drawing on methodologies used by Russian and Western ethnographers. Our approach is based on a comparative analysis of practices and ideology of donating textile products among the Turkic peoples of Central Asia. We used field, archival, and published materials on the ethnography of the Karakalpaks, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Altaians, etc. Characteristics of gift exchange traditions are outlined, functions and symbolism of textiles in rituals are described, and tendencies of their transformation in modern society are assessed. Findings suggest that among most Turkic peoples of Central Asia, gift exchange using textiles has traditionally accompanied many social practices. In Karakalpak family rituals, pieces of cloth were regarded as both material and spiritual values, and their exchange ensured the transfer of vital forces and strengthening the clan structure. As the analysis of modern Karakalpak gift exchange practices has shown, textiles are no longer regarded as products, but have retained their symbolic function at the level of social communication. Such an exchange has become a symbolic expression of mutual aid and solidarity at the family, clan, ethnic, and national levels.

Enhancing reliability in garment manufacturing through FMEA and FTA

This study employs Failure Mode and Effect Analysis (FMEA) and Fault Tree Analysis (FTA) to comprehensively investigate product defects in Biyan Konveksi's manufacturing processes, one of the growing SMEs producing clothing pieces. Analyzing critical failure modes, including tear failures, stitching irregularities, sizing discrepancies, and ribbon imperfections, the research employs FTA to trace root causes, revealing the interconnected nature of these failures. The initial defect percentage, attributed to human, machine, material, and environmental factors, stood above 3%, with culottes experiencing the highest defect percentage at 3.95%. After the company implemented the enhancement measures, the defect percentage dropped significantly, reaching a range of 1 to 1.25%. Subsequently, targeted enhancement strategies are proposed, encompassing the implementation of additional worker rest breaks to alleviate fatigue, comprehensive training for new staff, and stringent machine maintenance protocols. These interventions aim to curtail tear failures, refine stitching precision, rectify sizing errors, and enhance ribbon placement. Anticipated to yield a substantial reduction in overall defect percentages, the suggested improvements position Biyan Konveksi for sustained excellence, emphasizing proactive measures to enhance worker performance and optimize manufacturing processes. The study underscores the significance of a systematic approach, combining FMEA and FTA, in diagnosing and rectifying complex failure scenarios within manufacturing environments, offering practical implications for companies aiming to fortify their competitive edge in the market.

H. Agus Salim's Islamic Feminism Thoughts and Its Contribution to Contemporary Islamic Studies

This article explores the discourse on Islamic feminism through the perspective of H. Agus Salim. Using a descriptive-analytical method and an Islamic feminist approach rooted in harmony and justice—distinct from Western notions of equality—the study examines Salim’s works as primary sources, supported by secondary materials such as books, journal articles, and online resources discussing his thought. The findings reveal: (1) Salim advocates for equality in rights and responsibilities between men and women, particularly in education; (2) he approaches the hijab with a contextual and historical understanding, considering asbab al-nuzul; (3) he views the veil not merely as a piece of cloth but as a potential symbol of oppression; (4) he favors monogamy over polygamy, emphasizing the challenges of achieving justice and the historical specificity of certain rulings; and (5) he acknowledges the inevitability of women assuming leadership roles. This study highlights Salim’s nuanced stance on gender issues within an Islamic framework.

Utilization of Textile Waste for Sustainable Product Development With Modular Concept: a Case Study in Gang Tamim Bandung

This study identifies and analyzes the condition of textile waste volume, explores and determines techniques that can be used to utilize textile waste, and evaluates the effectiveness of the application of techniques used to utilize textile waste produced at the fabric and confection center in Gang Tamim Bandung. The research method uses Design Thinking with the following procedures: empathize, define, ideate, prototype, and testing. The results of the study indicate that the condition of the volume of textile waste is large, in the form of leftover fabric pieces, yarn, and other materials. The techniques in utilizing waste are mechanical recycling, chemical recycling, and upcycling techniques. The results of the effectiveness test with the selected procedure show products that are truly relevant and effective, and according to consumer needs.

Review on pattachitra

Kalamkari is a highly esteemed traditional art form that has long drawn admirers due to its intricate hand-painted designs on fabrics. This article explores the complex world of Kalamkari, a classic Indian art form that is well-known for its intricately painted textile pieces. Through a multifaceted investigation, the study seeks to understand Kalamkari's historical development, cultural value, and current relevance. The process includes a comprehensive reading of the material, a field investigation, a visual analysis of the artwork, and a comparison analysis between different locations and eras of history. While the field study entails interacting with artists and documenting their methods and processes, the literature review offers insights into the history, methods, and sociocultural aspects of Kalamkari. Visual analysis examines the narrative components, colours, and motifs in Kalamkari textiles to shed light on their artistic and symbolic meanings.

Mechanical textile recycling efficiency: Sample configuration, treatment effects and fibre opening assessment

The mechanical textile recycling process significantly reduces fibre length. Previously, we explored how lubricant pre-treatment before mechanical recycling reduced the fibre length loss. In this study, we added simulated wear to assess its influence on the fibre length output. We also evaluated the influence of sample shape and feed direction on recycling efficiency. We treated plain woven cotton textiles were subjected to either sandpaper grinding or steel needle raising. Finishing treatments with polyethylene glycol 4000 and Afilan CFA 100 were also used in combination. Samples were prepared in two shapes and fed into the recycling machine with warp threads oriented longitudinally, perpendicularly, or diagonally. Recycling efficiency was evaluated based on fibre length and the degree of fibre opening using a novel air flow permeability test. The results showed that sandpaper treatment degraded fibres, while the raising treatment improved recycling efficiency. A previously unreported finding was that the size, shape and feeding direction of woven fabrics showed significant effects on the fibre length output. Material fed with a thread system aligned longitudinally to the recycling machine direction resulted in a higher proportion of opened fibres and fewer unopened fabric pieces. It was further observed that the yarns aligned longitudinally with the feed direction exhibited significant opening, while those oriented perpendicularly remained largely unopened. The new method for measuring the degree of opened fibres proved effective and holds promise for future application. These findings provide tangible guidance on the mechanical recycling protocol and means to improve output assessment procedures.

Printed Design Proposals as Salvaged Remainders of the Goldsmith’s Workshop

Abstract When turning to the techniques of etching on metal to make intaglio prints on paper, goldsmiths addressed potential clients and other fellows in their trade. In doing so, they put forth statements about what constituted property for members of each of these social stations. Multiple claims competed to classify to whom the raw materials belonged, the skills to transmute them or the forms that such handiwork took and whether the ownership of such entities could be transferred, redirected or even undone. The Nuremberg goldsmith Christoph Jamnitzer stages these questions in an etching that shows a tailor who is holding a flag stitched together from remaindered pieces of cloth. Connecting for the first time this image to its literary source, Hans Sachs’s ‘The Tailor and the Flag’, published in 1563, this essay demonstrates how the episode attests against the hoarding of materials, and for the ethos of giving clients and apprentices their due.

The Fold as a Design Strategy: Analogy between Architecture and Issey Miyake’s Work

There is a notable similarity between the objectives of Architecture and Fashion Design. Both disciplines aim to protect and establish a sense of identity for their users. Similarly, analogous design strategies may be employed. One such strategy is the fold. The act of folding a surface results in the formation of a three-dimensional volume. The intrinsic two-dimensionality of the surface gives rise to the formation of space, which is characterised by three dimensions. The air that is trapped by the envelope provides the necessary space for the users. In the context of clothing, the enclosed space is relatively limited and personal. In contrast, in the field of Architecture, the space is of a larger scale and serves a collective purpose, accommodating a variety of activities. Consequently, the processes of designing a building or a piece of clothing are analogous, differing only in terms of scale, time, and materials. The employment of the fold as a point of departure for architectural and Fashion Design projects entails a comparable design process in which concepts such as continuity, superposition, and faceting are associated with this folded mechanism. Consequently, the resulting outcomes, particularly those pertaining to mass and aesthetic perception, exhibit notable similarities.

Digital health and wearable devices for retinal disease monitoring

AbstractDigital health is wielding a growing influence across all areas of healthcare, encompassing various facets such as telemedicine, artificial intelligence (AI), and electronic healthcare records. In Ophthalmology, digital health innovations can be broadly divided into four categories: (i) self-monitoring home devices and apps, (ii) virtual and augmented reality visual aids, (iii) AI software, and (iv) wearables. Wearable devices can work in the background, collecting large amounts of objective data while we do our day-to-day activities, which may be ecologically more valid and meaningful to patients than that acquired in traditional hospital settings. They can be a watch, wristband, piece of clothing, glasses, cane, smartphone in our pocket, earphones, or any other device with a sensor that we carry with us. Focusing on retinal diseases, a key challenge in developing novel therapeutics has been to prove a meaningful benefit in patients’ lives and the creation of objective patient-centred endpoints in clinical trials. In this review, we will discuss wearable devices collecting different aspects of visual behaviour, visual field, central vision, and functional vision, as well as their potential implementation as outcome measures in research/clinical trial settings. The healthcare landscape is facing a paradigm shift. Clinicians have a key role of collaborating with the development and fine-tuning of digital health innovations, as well as identifying opportunities where they can be leveraged to enhance our understanding of retinal diseases and improve patient outcomes.

SUSTAINABLE FASHION DESIGN WITH GAZENNE WOVEN FABRIC THE CULTURAL HERITAGE OF KEMALIYE

This study explores garment design applications that enhance the sustainability of Gazenne fabric. The primary objective is to promote this fabric as a tangible cultural asset, integrating it with sustainable and slow fashion movements to embed it in daily life. The featured collection, “Boomerang,” embodies the theme of sustainability and caters to women who value longevity and versatility in their wardrobe. The collection showcases designs characterized by recyclable, sustainable, and interchangeable elements. It aims to create a nexus between historical and futuristic fashion by utilizing “Gazenne Weaving Fabric,” indigenous to the Kemaliye district of Erzincan. This fabric, which received its geographical indication in 2013, has revitalized traditional weaving techniques and provided new employment opportunities. A central goal of this research is to rejuvenate Gazenne weaving—an endangered intangible cultural heritage—and repurpose it for contemporary apparel. Accordingly, the collection comprises garments designed for durability and versatility, facilitating various combinations with other clothing pieces. The research methodology includes a collection design of ten outfits conceptualized under the “Sustainability” theme, supported by a literature review and an experimental design approach. Two selected garments from this collection exemplify the practical application of sustainable fashion principles, emphasizing the use of Gazenne woven fabric. Ultimately, this study underscores the potential positive impacts on sustainable fashion, cultural heritage preservation, and local economic development. These findings may inspire similar initiatives and encourage the adoption of more sustainable, responsible practices in the fashion industry.

“Kevin and Mattéo”, “those Little Angels”…: A Few Examples of Semantic Re-parameterizations, between Interdiscursive Echoes and Metadiscursive Work

‘Kevin and Mattéo’, ‘imported product’, ‘community of Untouchables’, ‘piece of cloth’, ‘a chance’... Using the Figaro forum in 2023 (a French national newspaper) as a starting point, and from a discourse analysis perspective rooted in enunciation and semantics, the study examines the way in which certain lexical items are extracted from their usual meanings to be misappropriated in order to designate immigrants or refugees on French soil and thus condenses a political rejection of Muslims in particular and more generally of the current government. Through the interplay of semantic or pragma-enunciative adjustments and a fundamentally dialogical enunciation, the new setting here articulates an informative aim of deciphering with an intention of disqualification based on stereotyping and stigmatization. It is then a question for the enunciator of implementing a conniving logic of de-/re-construction of meaning.

Prevalence of Foreign Bodies in the Rumen and Reticulum of Goats Slaughtered at Herat Governmental Slaughterhouse, Afghanistan

Goat rearing plays a crucial role in fighting poverty and food insecurity in Afghanistan. However, devastating droughts and poor environmental management systems cause various health issues, such as the ingestion of indigestable foreign bodies (IFBs). The ingestion of IFBs can have serious consequences for goats, including reduced production, weight loss, electrolyte imbalances, and even death. The current study aimed to evaluate the prevalence of IFB ingestion in goats in Herat Slaughterhouse, Herat, Afghanistan. A cross-sectional study was performed at Herat Governmental Slaughterhouse, Herat-Islam Qala Highway, Herat Province, Afghanistan, from July to September 2023. A total of 600 goats were included in this study. The age, sex, and body condition of all included goats were recorded. After the slaughter, the goats were inspected for IFBs, and their rumen and reticulum were incised and examined. Indigestable foreign body classifications were noted and analyzed using the Statistical Package for the Social Sciences version 26. out of six hundred goats (487 male and 113 female), 147/600 (24.5%) had IFBs in their rumens. No IFBs were observed in the reticulum. Plastic was the most commonly detected IFB at 86/600 (14.33%), followed by a plastic thread at 27/600 (4.5%), bag thread at 7/600 (1.16%), lather at 8/600 (1.33%), mixed at 6/600 (1%), chocolate cover at 3/600 (0.5%), balloon at 4/600 (0.66%), wood at 2/600 (0.33%), piece of cloth at 1/600 (0.16%), camel dung at 1/600 (0.16%), cotton thread at 1/600 (0.16%), and wire at 1/600 (0.16%). A total of 116/600 (19.33%) of the goats aged ≥ 1 and ≤2 years presented a high frequency of IFBs. The lowest prevalence of IFBs was detected in goats aged 6 years (1/600; 0.16%). There was no correlation between IFBs and body condition in the examined goats in the current study. The occurrence of IFBs was demonstrated in goats slaughtered at Herat Governmental Slaughterhouse, which can negatively affect the overall productivity and production of goats in Herat Province. In conclusion, effective environmental management systems, safe waste disposal, and prompt foreign body removal are crucial preventive measures.

Development and Evaluation of Biodegradable Weed Control Mulch Mats from End-of-Use Cotton Waste

This research used end-of-use cotton apparel to develop mulch mats, a type of agrotextiles. The researchers collected and sorted end-of-use garments to obtain cotton textile waste. These end-of-use garments were deconstructed to obtain shredded textiles and big pieces of textiles. Using the textiles from deconstructed end-of-use garments, together with a small amount of new cotton fibers, the researchers used a Feltloom to develop needle-punched nonwoven fabrics that can be used as mulch mats. The researchers tested textile properties of these mulch mats and conducted agricultural field tests for weed control and pot tests for biodegradation. The researchers also tested the mulch mats’ soil moisture infiltration, and impact on water evaporation. The nonwoven mulch mats made from end-of-use garments have excellent weed inhibition capability and biodegradability. Compared to plastic mulch sheet, the nonwoven mulch mats are better for water utilization in rainfall watering and sprinkle irrigation but poorer in water conservation in drip irrigation. Considering durability, biodegradability, and soil temperature regulation, it is recommended to use 100% cotton and felt four times to produce mulch mats from end-of-use garments.

The Meaning And Function Of Rerajahan In The Religious Life Of The Balinese Hindu Community

This abstract provides an overview of rerajahan, a form of sacred symbolism prominent in Bali, often referred to as the Island of the Gods. Rerajahan consists of small cloth pieces adorned with intricate images and inscriptions, such as human figures, mythical creatures, and sacred motifs, displayed on structures like homes and shrines. These symbols, embodying both artistic and spiritual dimensions, serve to invoke blessings and protection, reflecting the deep cultural and spiritual practices of the Balinese community. The term "rerajahan" originates from "rajah," indicating an inscription or image with mystical power. In Balinese Hinduism, rerajahan is classified into two types: "rerajahan pengiwa" (left-hand path) and "rerajahan penengen" (right-hand path), each with distinct spiritual roles. These symbols are not mere decorations but require specific rituals, known as "pasupati," to activate their spiritual efficacy. The process of creating and activating rerajahan integrates sacred scripts, such as Modré, with symbolic imagery to harness their magical properties. Rerajahan plays diverse roles in Balinese rituals and daily life, including protection, healing, and enhancing spiritual well-being. It features prominently in religious ceremonies like the Panca Yadnya rituals and is used in offerings and personal amulets. The complex Balinese script and careful selection of media for rerajahan highlight its cultural and religious significance. Whether depicted on cloth, metal, or other materials, rerajahan represents a profound connection to the divine, underscoring its importance in both sacred and everyday contexts within Balinese Hinduism.

FASHION ACCOUTREMENTS: VERSATILITY FOR MULTI-UTILITY CLOTHING -“A FANTASY WARDROBE CONCEPT”

Today's young fashion consumers are seeking unique silhouettes to craft more appealing and aesthetic looks. The strong desire for individuality necessitates the exploration and utilization of basic silhouettes. Silhouettes serve as the core structure of the design, providing an authentic foundation upon which innovative solutions can be built. This study focuses on the redesign of additional articles of clothing for their multi-functional utility. Fashion accompaniments allow for the seamless integration of existing wardrobe pieces, significantly curbing excessive clothing consumption and waste, thus promoting sustainability. These versatile clothing pieces offer a range of styles, discouraging the need for frequent clothing purchases. This integrated approach can curb the impulsive buying habits among young fashion consumers presenting a creative solution for fashionable looks. The key is to familiarize customers with strategically planned wardrobes that include compatible detachable clothing pieces. Fashion accompaniments can be augmented to mix and match with existing wardrobe clothing pieces. Designers and fashion brands can be encouraged to focus on perennial clothing with a contemporary touch. It is crucial to educate consumers on the versatility of these accompaniments to effectively incorporate them into daily life. This study seeks to repurpose remnants from high fashion silhouettes into detachable pieces that can be transformed into new clothing designs. The adoption of simplified patternmaking concepts can minimize procurement costs. These silhouette overlays have the potential to revolutionize design and style experimentation, and traditional design boundaries. The transformation of basic shapes into versatile forms can unlock limitless possibilities for their optimal use, leading to an eco-friendly approach to fashion. The suitability of the silhouette to the figure type is a crucial factor in the selection process. The study proposed the implementation of CLO3D technology by brands to personalize looks and ascertain suitability to figure type for captivating results.

Super-Resolution Cloth Animation with Spatial and Temporal Coherence

Creating super-resolution cloth animations, which refine coarse cloth meshes with fine wrinkle details, faces challenges in preserving spatial consistency and temporal coherence across frames. In this paper, we introduce a general framework to address these issues, leveraging two core modules. The first module interleaves a simulator and a corrector. The simulator handles cloth dynamics, while the corrector rectifies differences in low-frequency features across various resolutions. This interleaving ensures prompt correction of spatial errors from the coarse simulation, effectively preventing their temporal propagation. The second module performs mesh-based super-resolution for detailed wrinkle enhancements. We decompose garment meshes into overlapping patches for adaptability to various styles and geometric continuity. Our method achieves an 8× improvement in resolution for cloth animations. We showcase the effectiveness of our method through diverse animation examples, including simple cloth pieces and intricate garments.

Comparative Performance Evaluation of Ultrasonic Welding and Conventional Sewing Methods in Knitted Fabrics

Abstract When transforming two-dimensional fabric pieces into three-dimensional clothing with different sewing methods, choosing the proper technique is one of the primary factors affecting the quality of the product. Within the scope of the study, five different types of knitted fabric alternatives, which are frequently used in products for daily use, are discussed. The conventional joining methods (lock stitch and overedge stitching) and ultrasonic welding were evaluated in terms of joint performance. All the evaluations made in terms of seam strength and seam efficiency showed that the overedge stitch is more performant in sewing knitted fabrics. One of the critical advantages of ultrasonic welding, the absence of the need for needle and thread and the absence of these costs, necessitated the evaluation of one more feature of the joining methods in the study. In this context, the energy consumption values of all the methods were evaluated. As a result, the energy consumption value of ultrasonic welding is approximately 1.3 times higher than overedge stitching and approximately 10.7 times higher than lockstitching.

Bioprospecting of Indigenous Microbial Species for Bioethanol Production from the Fruits of Some Selected Exotic Ornamental Plants

The study determined the ability of some selected indigenous microbial isolates, namely Bacillus subtilis, Zymomonas mobilis and Saccharomyces cerevisiae, in the production of bioethanol from the fruits of some exotic plants (i.e. Ixora coccinea, Duranta repens and Syzygium guineense). B. subtilis was isolated from soil, while Z. mobilis and S. cerevisiae were isolated from palm wine using cultural methods. The organisms were identified based on their colony characteristics and morphological features, which were observed by microscopic examination of the stained smears of the isolates. The identity of the organisms was confirmed through the molecular study of the 16S rRNA and 18S rRNA regions of the microbial genomes using Polymerase Chain Reaction – Denaturing Gradient Gel Electrophoresis (PCR - DGGE). The fruit samples were collected, washed, blended, filtered using a clean piece of cloth and pretreated using ultrasonication and autoclave. Concentrations of reducing sugars in the fruit filtrates were determined using DNSA-UV-visible spectrophotometry. Seven (7) conical flasks (500ml capacity) were arranged for each fruit sample in duplicate, and 250ml of the fruit filtrates were dispensed in the flasks accordingly. The fermenting organisms were inoculated in the flasks containing the fruit filtrates singly and in combination. Flasks were incubated in shaking incubator for seven days at 35oC. After incubation, the concentrations of bioethanol produced were determined using the UV-visible spectrophotometry. Highest reducing sugars concentrations of 43.7% and 43.6% were found in I. coccinea and S. guineense, respectively, while 36.4% was recorded for D. repens. Highest bioethanol yield of 27.5m/L was found in I. coccinea fermented by S. cerevisiae and Z. mobilis, while the lowest yield of 17.25m/L was found D. repens. The yield in bioethanol production was higher in samples containing a combination of fermenting organisms compared to ones with individual cells. It was recommended that the fruits of these exotic plants should be considered for commercial production of bioethanol.

Administrative Hierarchy of the Gandan Monastery According to the “Regulations of 1840”

The article is devoted to the analysis of the system of administrative positions in the Gandan Monastery of Mongolia during the Qing era in the context of the distribution of material wealth based on the author’s translation of an archival document entitled “Regulations of the Gandan Monastery”, compiled in 1840. During the study, the author relied on source studies, historical and sociological methods, and also a method of historical and ethnographic reconstruction. The use of these methods made it possible to restore the administrative structure of the Gandan monastery, as well as to identify the specifics of the everyday life and economic structure of the Buddhist clergy of the mid-19th century. As a result of the source study and historical-ethnographic analysis of the text of the “Regulations” and the identification of the main contexts for the mention of Buddhist monastic positions in the “Regulations”, the author came to the following conclusions: most of the cases of mentioning positions are related to the range of administrative and economic responsibilities (control, accounting and distribution of material wealth monastery), while the greatest attention of the drafters of the “Regulations” was paid to organizational aspects of preparing and conducting calendar Buddhist prayers, as well as issues of subordination between lamas. According to the text of the “Regulations”, the material assets that came under the jurisdiction of the Gandan monastery consisted mainly of cattle, food products (meat, pressed tea), pieces of silk fabric (Mong. mangnuγ), as well as various types of ritual hadaks (Mong. sonom-hadak, sambai-khadak), etc. The economic structure of the Gandan monastery was based on regular offerings (Mong. bar’ts) from the rich patrons of the monastery, princes and their closest relatives, as well as on the material support of the aimags-communities located at the monastery. It was also revealed that food surpluses from the offerings were sold, which indicates significant food reserves and, accordingly, the presence of large funds among the monastery leadership. In general, we can say that monastic everyday life in the context of the administrative hierarchy of Buddhist positions and statuses has its own eastern characteristics, it can be considered as a separate type of organization of everyday life of the eastern steppe society, which gradually moved to a semi-nomadic and sedentary way of life.

Texture and Flag Color Extraction in Backpropagation Neural Network Architecture

A flag is a rectangular or triangular piece of cloth or paper used as a symbol of the state, association, body, etc. or as a sign. It is often also used to symbolize a country to show its sovereignty. Along with the large number of countries, the country's flag also has many varieties and colors. The use of computers as a human aid is expected to the extent that the computer's ability can replace the limitations that humans have. Humans can recognize an object by using their eyes and brain, but if the eyes and brain cannot work properly it will hamper human work. In this research, training will be conducted on the Back Propagation Neural Network Architecture. Characteristic data for image recognition is obtained by extracting texture features and RGB color features. So that the network can recognize the flags by matching the feature data obtained from the training carried out. Characteristic data obtained from 24 data consisting of 16 training images and 8 testing images. From the results of the image network training can be identified properly, the accuracy rate of object identification is 87.50%. GUI users are able to identify flag images based on RGB text and color features.