Photoprotective Properties Research Articles

Enhanced Streptomyces roseochromogenes melanin production by using the marine renewable source Posidonia oceanica egagropili.

Since the possibility to biotechnologically produce melanin by Streptomycetes using plant biomass has been so far poorly investigated, Posidonia oceanica egagropili, a marine waste accumulating along the Mediterranean Sea coasts, was explored as a renewable source to enhance extracellular melanin production by Streptomyces roseochromogenes ATCC 13400. Therefore, different amounts of egagropili powder were added to a culture medium containing glucose, malt extract, and yeast extract, and their effect on the melanin biosynthesis was evaluated. A 2.5g·L-1 supplementation in 120-h shake flask growths at 26°C, at pH 6.0 and 250rpm, was found to enhance the melanin production up to 3.94 ± 0.12g·L-1, a value 7.4-fold higher than the control. Moreover, 2-L batches allowed to reach a concentration of 9.20 ± 0.12g·L-1 in 96h with a productivity of 0.098g·L-1·h-1. Further studies also demonstrated that the melanin production enhancement was due to the synergistic effect of both the lignincarbohydrate complex and the holocellulose components of the egagropili. Finally, the pigment was purified from the broth supernatant by acidic precipitation and reversed-phase chromatography, characterized by UV absorbance and one- and two-dimensional NMR, and also tested for its chemical, antioxidant, and photo-protective properties. KEY POINTS: • S. roseochromogenes ATCC 13400 produces extracellular soluble melanin. • Egagropili added to the growth medium enhances melanin production and productivity. • Both the lignin carbohydrate complex and the holocellulose egagropili components influence the melanin biosynthesis.

Saccorhiza polyschides-A Source of Natural Active Ingredients for Greener Skincare Formulations.

The growing knowledge about the harmful effects caused by some synthetic ingredients present in skincare products has led to an extensive search for natural bioactives. Thus, this study aimed to investigate the dermatological potential of five fractions (F1–F5), obtained by a sequential extraction procedure, from the brown seaweed Saccorhiza polyschides. The antioxidant (DPPH, FRAP, ORAC and TPC), anti-enzymatic (collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia furfur), anti-inflammatory (nitric oxide, tumor necrosis factor-α, interleukin-6 and interleukin-10) and photoprotective (reactive oxygen species) properties of all fractions were evaluated. The ethyl acetate fraction (F3) displayed the highest antioxidant and photoprotective capacity, reducing ROS levels in UVA/B-exposed 3T3 fibroblasts, and the highest anti-enzymatic capacity against tyrosinase (IC50 value: 89.1 µg/mL). The solid water-insoluble fraction (F5) revealed the greatest antimicrobial activity against C. acnes growth (IC50 value: 12.4 µg/mL). Furthermore, all fractions demonstrated anti-inflammatory potential, reducing TNF-α and IL-6 levels in RAW 264.7 macrophages induced with lipopolysaccharides. Chemical analysis of the S. polyschides fractions by NMR revealed the presence of different classes of compounds, including lipids, polyphenols and sugars. The results highlight the potential of S. polyschides to be incorporated into new nature-based skincare products.

Pomegranate peel extract and zinc oxide as a source of natural dye and functional material for textile fibers aiming for photoprotective properties

The use of photoprotection products is indispensable today, due to the potential harmful effects of ultraviolet (UV) rays. Textiles are a natural barrier against UV radiation and can be made more effective by applying UV blockers. The present study investigates the photoprotection properties arising from dyeing cotton fabric with pomegranate peel extract. The extract was characterized by TPC, TFC, THT, color, pH, HPLC-UV and including its antiradical activity. The dyed fabric samples were evaluated for color, color fastness to light, rubbing, washing and sweating, along with a determination of SEM, EDS, ATR-FTIR, and UPF properties. The chemical analyses of the P. granatum peel aqueous extract by HPLC-UV indicated the presence of ellagic acid, punicalagin and punicalin derivatives. The extract showed antiradical activity (11.1 ± 0.4 CI50 (mg L−1) which is consistent with a high amount of total phenols 307 ± 26 (mg GAE/g extract), total flavonoids 150.3 ± 2.3 (mg RE/g extract), and condensed tannins 632.6 ± 84.1 (mg TAE/g extract). The dyed fabric samples showed yellowish colors and good color fastness ratings. The evaluation of the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) indicated mostly values from 15 to 24, equivalent to the category of good to very good photoprotection. Bearing in mind that ZnO is often used in combination with other UV-blockers to enhance the coverage of sunscreens, an aspect of this study involved determining the UPF of the pomegranate extract mixed with ZnO. In this case, ZnO addition did not significantly enhance the UPF of the dyed cotton fabric.

Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) nanoemulgel activity as antiaging through suppressing the MMP-1 expression and the collagen degradation

Context: Aging is closely related to reactive oxygen species (ROS). ROS increases the collagenase enzyme (MMP-1) levels and collagen degradation that causes skin wrinkling. Secang wood (Caesalpinia sappan L.) containing brazilin and brazilein has been shown to have photoprotective and antioxidant properties. Aims: To evaluate the activity of C. sappan nanoemulgel as antiaging agent against the target protein, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), especially MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 by in silico assay and using in vivo assay through MMP-1 and collagen expression parameter. Methods: C. sappan nanoemulgel was made by mixing the gel base with C. sappan nanoemulsion from heartwood extract. The C. sappan nanoemulsion was formulated using the Self Nanoemulsifying Drug Delivery System method. In vivo testing was conducted with a post-test-only control group design and used male Wistar rats. MMP-1 expression was examined using immunohistochemical techniques, and the amount of dermal collagen was observed with Picro Sirius Red staining. In silico assay using a computational method with Autodock 4.2 program. Results: C. sappan nanoemulgel concentrations of 0.0625, 0.125, and 0.25% obstruct the expression of MMP-1 and collagen degradation. The bond energy value to MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 were -8.04, -10.40, and -8.70 kcal/mol (for brazilin); -8.82; -10.99, and -8.51 kcal/mol (for brazilein). Conclusions: Nanoemulgel containing C. sappan nanoemulsion has a potential activity as an antiaging agent by repressing MMP-1 expression and dermal collagen degradation. C. sappan nanoemulgel 0.25% showed the best result as antiaging. Brazilin and brazilein from C. sappan inhibit the MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 by in silico assay.

Photo-Protective and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Antidesma thwaitesianum Müll. Arg. Fruit Extract against UVB-Induced Keratinocyte Cell Damage.

The main cause of most skin cancers is damage from UVB from sunlight, which penetrate the skin surface and induce inflammation. For this reason, this study aims to identify natural products with photo-protection properties and their mode of action by using the UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocyte model. Antidesma thwaitesianum fruit extracts at 25, 50, and 100 µg/mL recovered cell viability following UVB exposure in a dose-dependent manner. Cell survival was associated with the reduction in intracellular ROS and NO. In addition, we showed that the pre-treatment with the fruit extract lowered the phosphorylation level of two MAPK-signaling pathways: p38 MAPKs and JNKs. The resulting lower MAPK activation decreased their downstream pro-inflammatory cascade through COX-2 expression and subsequently reduced the PGE2 proinflammatory mediator level. The photoprotective effects of the fruit extract were correlated with the presence of polyphenolic compounds, including cyanidin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid, vanillic acid, and protocatechuic acid, which have been previously described as antioxidant and anti-inflammation. Together, we demonstrated that the pre-treatment with the fruit extract had photo-protection by inhibiting oxidative stress and subsequently lowered stress-induced MAPK responses. Therefore, this fresh fruit is worthy of investigation to be utilized as a skincare ingredient for preventing UVB-induced skin damage.

Carotenoids Biosynthesis, Accumulation, and Applications of a Model Microalga Euglenagracilis.

The carotenoids, including lycopene, lutein, astaxanthin, and zeaxanthin belong to the isoprenoids, whose basic structure is made up of eight isoprene units, resulting in a C40 backbone, though some of them are only trace components in Euglena. They are essential to all photosynthetic organisms due to their superior photoprotective and antioxidant properties. Their dietary functions decrease the risk of breast, cervical, vaginal, and colorectal cancers and cardiovascular and eye diseases. Antioxidant functions of carotenoids are based on mechanisms such as quenching free radicals, mitigating damage from reactive oxidant species, and hindering lipid peroxidation. With the development of carotenoid studies, their distribution, functions, and composition have been identified in microalgae and higher plants. Although bleached or achlorophyllous mutants of Euglena were among the earliest carotenoid-related microalgae under investigation, current knowledge on the composition and biosynthesis of these compounds in Euglena is still elusive. This review aims to overview what is known about carotenoid metabolism in Euglena, focusing on the carotenoid distribution and structure, biosynthesis pathway, and accumulation in Euglena strains and mutants under environmental stresses and different culture conditions. Moreover, we also summarize the potential applications in therapy preventing carcinogenesis, cosmetic industries, food industries, and animal feed.

Rosmarinus officinalis L. hexane extract: phytochemical analysis, nanoencapsulation, and in silico, in vitro, and in vivo anti-photoaging potential evaluation

A shift towards natural anti-aging ingredients has spurred the research to valorize traditionally used plants. In this context, Rosmarinus officinalis L. was evaluated for its photoprotective, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-wrinkling properties. GC/MS and LC-ESI-HRMS based phytochemical profiling of rosemary leaves hexane extract resulted in the identification of 47 and 31 compounds, respectively and revealed rich content in triterpenoids, monoterpenoids and phenolic diterpenes. In vitro assays confirmed the antioxidant, anti-aging, and wound healing potential of rosemary extract along with a good safety profile, encouraging further development. A systematic molecular modelling study was conducted to elucidate the mechanistic background of rosemary anti-aging properties through the inhibitory effects of its major constituents against key anti-aging targets viz. elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. Development of rosemary extract lipid nanocapsules-based mucoadhesive gels was performed to improve skin contact, permeation, and bioavailability prior to in vivo testing. The developed formulae demonstrated small particle size (56.55–66.13 nm), homogenous distribution (PDI of 0.207–0.249), and negatively charged Zeta potential (− 13.4 to − 15.6). In UVB-irradiated rat model, topical rosemary hexane extract-loaded lipid nanocapsules-based gel provided photoprotection, restored the antioxidant biochemical state, improved epidermal and dermal histological features, and decreased the level of inflammatory and wrinkling markers. The use of rosemary hexane extract in anti-aging and photoprotective cosmeceuticals represents a safe, efficient, and cost-effective approach.

Фотозащитные свойства экстрактов из культивируемых и дикорастущих макромицетов

The photoprotective properties of ethanol extracts from fruiting bodies of cultivated macromycetes Hericium erinaceus, Lentinula edodes, Ganoderma lucidum, and Pleurotus ostreatus, and wild-growing Inonotus obliquus, Fomes fomentarius, Trichaptum biforme, and Ganoderma applanatum, were evaluated. The yield of extracts was 29.2%; 25.0%; 11.5% and 9.1% for H. erinaceus, L. edodes, G. lucidum and P. ostreatus, respectively; 16.5%; 2.6%; 2.3% and 5.1% for I. obliquus, F. fomentarius, T. biforme and G. applanatum, respectively. Ethanol extracts from the fruiting bodies of cultivated mushrooms had a low level of photoprotection in terms of SPF, with a score of λcrit = 3÷4, were excellent and most effective in terms of UV-A/UV-B. Extracts from the fruiting bodies of T. biforme and G. applanatum are not photoprotective: the first according to the criterion λcrit < 370 nm; the second is SPF < 15.0. The extract from F. fomentarius is photoprotective, the extract from I. obliquus is close to being photoprotective.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy.

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, “how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?”. BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

Obtaining of a plant growth stimulant and bioinsecticides based on Bacillus Thuringiensis melaninogenic strains

Based on insecticidal strains of Bacillus thuringiensis, highly active melanin-synthesizing producer strains were obtained. A waste-free technology has been developed that provides the simultaneous production of biologically active substances - melanin and insecticidal toxins in one production process, which increases the profitability of their production. Due to the photoprotective property of the synthesized pigment, the insecticidal activity of melaninogenic strains was increased. The biostimulating effect of bacterial water-soluble melanin has been shown on a number of different (including important agricultural) plants.

Photoprotective Agents Obtained from Aromatic Plants Grown in Colombia: Total Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Assessment of Cytotoxic Potential in Cancer Cell Lines of Cymbopogon flexuosus L. and Tagetes lucida Cav. Essential Oils.

Photoprotective agents obtained from plants provide benefits for the health of the skin. The present study aims to assess the total phenolic content (TPC) and in vitro UV-protective properties of twelve essential oils (EOs) from plants grown in Colombia and to evaluate the antioxidant and cytotoxic potential of two species identified as photoprotective potentials: Cymbopogon flexuosus and Tagetes lucida. The composition of EOs was studied by GC/MS. The cytotoxicity of both EOs was examined using an MTT assay, and an H2-DCFDA probe was employed to estimate the intracellular production of ROS in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells. Major constituents (≥10%) were neral, geranial, geranyl acetate in C. flexuosus and estragole in T. lucida. The TPC for C. flexuosus and T. lucida EOs were ≥10 mg GAE/g of byproduct. Both EOs showed photoprotective properties (SPFin vitro: 13–14), and long-wavelength UVA protection (λc > 370 nm). HepG2 and Calu-1 cells exposed to C. flexuosus exhibited antiproliferative activity (˂50%) at 125 µg/mL, while T. lucida was at 250 and 500 µg/mL. The IC50 values for C. flexuosus were 75 and 100 µg/mL in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells, respectively, whereas those for T. lucida were >250 µg/mL. These EOs achieved significant inhibitory effects (between 15.6 and 40.4%) against H2O2-induced oxidative stress. The results showed that EO compounds recognized as antioxidants could counteract the effects elicited by H2O2.

Hydrothermal Synthesis of γ-WO3 and h-WO3 Powders in the Presence of Citric Acid and Their Photoprotective Properties

Hydrothermal Synthesis of γ-WO3 and h-WO3 Powders in the Presence of Citric Acid and Their Photoprotective Properties

Новый взгляд на кросслинкинг роговицы и его применение в офтальмологии

The accumulated experimental and clinical data on corneal crosslinking made it possible to take a different look at the possibilities of its use for therapeutic and prophylactic purposes in various ophthalmic pathologies. Purpose. To consider new approaches to corneal crosslinking, criteria for its evaluation and expansion of the range of its applications in ophthalmology. Material and methods. Eight-year experimental (20 porcine eyes, 90 rabbit eyes) and clinical studies (610 surgeries) on photorefractive and phototherapeutic surgeries with saturation of the corneal stroma with riboflavin during laser correction of ametropias and the treatment of various diseases of the cornea were analyzed. A comprehensive examination was carried out using modern diagnostic devices. Particular emphasis was placed on the technique of two-wavelength optical scanning of the cornea. Results. Experimental and clinical studies have shown the benefits of corneal photoablation with riboflavin. The use of an ultrasonic nebulizer and isotonic 0.25% riboflavin solution cooled to +5–7°С provided the effect of local aeration and hypothermia. Such technology did not affect the accuracy of refractive ablation and blocked the negative effect of induced secondary radiation on keratocytes, nerves, and the underlying layers of the cornea. This reduced the aseptic in flammatory response and the risk of developing an irreversible form of fibroplasia. Ablation with riboflavin initiated a fading effect of crosslinking. Such prophylactic crosslinking in excimer laser surgery of the cornea proved to be sufficient to compensate for the weakening of its strength and photoprotective properties. These studies predetermined the development of a new technology of therapeutic crosslinking with riboflavin activation by subablative radiation of an argon-fluorine excimer laser for keratoectasias and other pathologies of the cornea. According to OCT and densitometry, all the classic signs of traditional crosslinking were noted. Two-wavelength optical scanning of the cornea revealed the effect of dehydration and an increase in the refractive index of the cornea, which can be considered as one of the objective criteria for assessing crosslinking. Conclusion. Crosslinking of the cornea with argon-fluorine excimer laser radiation in ablative and subablative modes expands the range of its application for the prevention of fibroplasia, keratoectasia during photorefractive, phototherapeutic ablation, treatment of keratoconus, secondary keratoectasias and other diseases of the cornea. Key words: crosslinking, cornea, photorefractive and phototherapeutic keratoablation, keratoconus, secondary kertoectasias, corneal pathology

In vitro and in silico investigation of the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of Protium spruceanum leaves and its main flavonoids

For the first time, the photoprotective potential (UV absorption and antioxidant properties) of Protium spruceanum leaves and its main flavonoids was investigated combining an in vitro and in silico approach. The extract was standardized in rutin content (0.8% w/w), quantified by a validated HPLC-DAD method. The extract protected fibroblasts and keratinocytes against cell death in the stress oxidative H2O2-induced test, with greater effect than rutin standard. This cytoprotection is correlated to the free radical scavenging action, determined by DPPH method. The theoretical investigation on the UV absorption showed an excellent correlation of the results (R2 = 0.911) allowing valuable information about the photoprotective properties of rutin, afzelin and quercitrin, as the importance of the A, B and C rings in the UV absorption property and the hydroxyls in B ring (catechol group) leading to a better antioxidant action. Therefore, the extract from P. spruceanum leaves is a promising candidate for sunscreen development.

Clinical study of Asian skin changes after application of a sunscreen formulation containing grape seed extract.

Asian skin undergoing chronological aging, accumulates signs of photoaging mediated by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Although sunscreens are effective in preventing signs of photoaging, polyphenol-rich extracts, for example, grape seed extract (GSE) can provide additional protection through the broad spectrum of biological activities. To access the effectiveness of a sunscreen formulation containing GSE as an important cosmetic ingredient for the improvement of age-related changes in Asian skin using noninvasive evaluation techniques. Noninvasive methods were used to assess changes in the biophysical properties corresponding to aging signs including melanin and erythema indices, color parameters of the CIE L*a*b* system, elasticity, and hydration of the forearm skin before and after applying the sunscreen with GSE. In addition, to confirm the effectiveness of the tested product, we compared it with benchmark sunscreen, and a cream base containing either GSE or UV filters. Twice-daily application of sunscreen containing 3% GSE significantly reduced the level of melanin and erythema and improved overall skin tone. The hydration was drastically increased after 3h of wearing formulation and was maintained relatively high for 5h. Skin elasticity parameters, including Young's modulus, retraction time, and viscoelasticity, improved in participants of all age categories (35-59years). Moreover, sunscreen with GSE, as acclaimed by participants, improved overall skin appearance. The balancing potential of GSE on the skin, combined with the photoprotective properties of UV filters demonstrated an added value as an anti-aging agent and proved efficacy for both photo- and chronologically-aged Asian skin.

Phytocomplex of a Standardized Extract from Red Orange (Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck) against Photoaging.

Excessive exposure to solar radiation is associated with several deleterious effects on human skin. These effects vary from the occasional simple sunburn to conditions resulting from chronic exposure such as skin aging and cancers. Secondary metabolites from the plant kingdom, including phenolic compounds, show relevant photoprotective activities. In this study, we evaluated the potential photoprotective activity of a phytocomplex derived from three varieties of red orange (Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck). We used an in vitro model of skin photoaging on two human cell lines, evaluating the protective effects of the phytocomplex in the pathways involved in the response to damage induced by UVA-B. The antioxidant capacity of the extract was determined at the same time as evaluating its influence on the cellular redox state (ROS levels and total thiol groups). In addition, the potential protective action against DNA damage induced by UVA-B and the effects on mRNA and protein expression of collagen, elastin, MMP1, and MMP9 were investigated, including some inflammatory markers (TNF-α, IL-6, and total and phospho NFkB) by ELISA. The obtained results highlight the capacity of the extract to protect cells both from oxidative stress—preserving RSH (p < 0.05) content and reducing ROS (p < 0.01) levels—and from UVA-B-induced DNA damage. Furthermore, the phytocomplex is able to counteract harmful effects through the significant downregulation of proinflammatory markers (p < 0.05) and MMPs (p < 0.05) and by promoting the remodeling of the extracellular matrix through collagen and elastin expression. This allows the conclusion that red orange extract, with its strong antioxidant and photoprotective properties, represents a safe and effective option to prevent photoaging caused by UVA-B exposure.

Photoprotective Potential, Cytotoxicity, and UPLC-QTOF/MS Analysis on Bioactive Solvent Fractions of Moringa concanensis Nimmo Bark.

Moringa concanensis Nimmo (Moringaceae) belongs to the same family of M. oleifera (miracle tree) and is a medicinal plant traditionally used by Indians to treat various ailments related to diabetes, tumours, inflammation, and blood pressure. Despite its versatility, the photoprotective properties of the plant remain unclear. This study revealed the UV-protective properties of its methanol bark extract and respective subfractions, chloroform, hexane, and ethyl acetate through total phenolic and flavonoid content (TPC & TFC), antioxidant (DPPH), sun protecting factor (SPF) value, and UV absorption spectra analysis. This study also investigated on the inhibitory effect of the tested samples on collagenases and elastase, which are well-known for their role in the skin. The cytotoxic and H2O2 scavenging properties of M. concanensis in 3T3-L1 cells were explored. Finally, the phytochemical profiling of the active fraction was conducted through UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis. Among the tested fractions, the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis showed the highest TPC (30.92 ± 0.71 mg GAE/DW), TFC (29.05 ± 0.09 mg QE/DW), and antioxidant properties (IC50-6.616 ± 1.90 μgml−1). Additionally, chloroform fraction demonstrated the highest SPF value, 10.46 at 200 μgml−1, compared to the other tested fractions. All the fractions showed a broad absorption spectrum covering both UVA and UVB ranges. The chloroform fraction of M. concanensis also showed collagenase (50%) and elastase (IC50-2.95 ± 1.23 μgml−1) inhibition properties similar to the positive control. Cytotoxic results revealed that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis prevented the H2O2-induced oxidative damage in 3T3-L1 cells even at lower concentrations (1.56 μgml−1). UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis tentatively identified the presence of bioactive flavonoids and phenolics such as astragalin, quercetin, isoquercetin, and caffeic acid in the active fraction of M. concanensis bark. Overall, it is suggested that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis bark has the potency to be used as an active ingredient in sunscreen products.

Shinorine and porphyra-334 isolated from laver (Porphyra dentata) inhibit adipogenesis in 3T3-L1 cells.

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) such as shinorine and porphyra-334 from Porphyra spp. are bioactive compounds with strong photoprotective and antioxidant properties. In this study, the anti-adipogenic effect of shinorine and porphyra-334 was examined in vitro utilizing 3T3-L1 preadipocytes. Shinorine and porphyra-334 were extracted from laver (Porphyra dentata) 50% methanolic (MeOH) extract of and their structures were elucidated by MS and NMR spectroscopy. Both compounds had no cytotoxic effect in 3T3-L1 cells (< 200μg/mL) and inhibited the accumulation of lipid droplets in 3T3-L1 mature adipocytes in a dose-dependent manner (0.1 and 1.0μM). Interestingly, both compounds had also significantly reduced the expression of adipogenic-related genes such as peroxisome proliferator-activated receptor γ2 (PPARγ2), CCAAT/enhancer-binding protein α (C/EBPα), adiponectin, and leptin in 3T3-L1 cells. The findings suggest that shinorine and porphyra-334 have the potential to inhibit adipogenesis in 3T3-L1 preadipocytes.

Efficient Extraction of Total Polyphenols from Apple and Investigation of Its SPF Properties.

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the sun protection factor (SPF) of cosmetic emulsions with the addition of hydroalcoholic apple extract. First, the total polyphenolic content, the antioxidant activity and SPF properties of the extracts obtained by sonication and refluxing were evaluated. The two extraction methods were improved using the central composite design. For cosmetic emulsion that contained a different concentration of apple extract (10–40%), a SPF value between 0.51 and 0.90 was obtained. The most efficient apple extract was obtained by reflux using 50% ethanol and a 60 min extraction time. The concentrated extract was incorporated in a cosmetic emulsion whose SPF maximum was 0.90. Accordingly, due to photoprotective properties, the apple extract can be a candidate for use in cosmetic formulations.

Prospecting In Vitro Antioxidant and Photoprotective Properties of Rosmarinic Acid in a Sunscreen System Developed by QbD Containing Octyl p-Methoxycinnamate and Bemotrizinol

Progressively growing diagnoses of skin cancer trigger public health concerns about excessive sun exposure, awareness of the deleterious effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on the skin, and the proper use of sunscreens. Studies show that bioactive molecules, such as rosmarinic acid (RA), may potentiate the photoprotective and antioxidant activity of topical formulations. This research presents the application of the concepts of quality by design (QbD) to evaluate the critical parameters of quality and the development of an optimized cosmetic formulation with RA by means of an understanding of product design space. Samples were developed using design of experiments (DoE) and they were evaluated for in vitro antioxidant activity and photoprotective efficacy, as well as for photostability through artificial irradiation. We were able to achieve the RA performance regarding antioxidant and SPF properties through in vitro experiments. We obtained the equations for predicting the in vitro antioxidant activity and SPF. Considering our sunscreen system, developed with octyl p-methoxycinnamate and bemotrizinol, the presence of RA increased its antioxidant capacity; however, the in vitro SPF was reduced when both UV filters were used. The development of multifunctional sunscreens is of utmost importance; moreover, there is a need for the rational development of formulations that ensure representative statistical tests of the effects and interactions among the components of a formulation on the desired critical quality attributes, including efficacy.