Fashion Phenomenon Research Articles

Indonesian local second-hand clothing: mindful consumption with stimulus-organism-response (SOR) model

The high demand for the fashion industry currently results in the emergence of the fast fashion phenomenon, prompting consumers to spend more money on unnecessary clothing. This leads to excessive clothing production, which impacts pollution, waste, and emissions. The phenomenon of excessive fashion consumption and production can be mitigated by utilizing second-hand clothing products. Purchasing second-hand clothing products can be classified as part of mindful consumption behavior. The aim of this study is to examine the direct and indirect effects of Electronic Word of Mouth on mindful consumption behavior in the context of local second-hand clothing purchases. Additionally, this study also tests the mediating effects of consumer engagement and environmental attitudes. This research is quantitative in nature, employing data collection through questionnaires from local second-hand clothing consumers within the active workforce demographic (aged 18–59) in Indonesia, yielding 205 respondents. The data analysis technique used is structural equation modeling-partial least square (SEM-PLS). The research findings indicate a significant positive direct influence of Electronic Word of Mouth on environmental attitudes, consumer engagement, and mindful consumption behavior. Moreover, there is a notable positive direct influence between consumer engagement and mindful consumption behavior, while no significant influence is found in the relationship between environmental attitudes and mindful consumption behavior. Furthermore, the study confirms the mediating effect of consumer engagement between Electronic Word of Mouth and mindful consumption behavior but does not support a significant mediating effect of environmental attitudes on local second-hand clothing mindful consumption behavior.

The spread of Chinese fashion and Chinoiseries in Bohemia

The aim of this article is to introduce the phenomenon of Chinese fashion or Chinamode in the 18th century Kingdom of Bohemia, and – in line with the theme of this issue of Cornova – to explain how it moved first into, and then across the territory. Without attempting a thorough analysis of the subject, which would be beyond the scope of a short essay, my investigation centred on interior furnishing and wall decorations in particular: three diverse case studies are provided. The polarity between Chinoiseries and authentic imports from East Asia is also looked at. In conclusion, I try to delineate the phases of Chinese fashion in Bohemia, and present their characteristics.

Inai Cultural Dialectics: Indigenous Knowledge of Natural Dyes among the Iban Dayak as a Response to the Phenomenon of Fast Fashion

Inai Cultural Dialectics: Indigenous Knowledge of Natural Dyes among the Iban Dayak as a Response to the Phenomenon of Fast Fashion

The Way of the Detail in Japanese Design

When considering the growing interest in the ideas of internationalisation and globalisation, the phrase ‘Japanese Design’ has always captured the inspirational pulse of designers. This paradoxical world of Japan provides the impetus for vast and varied design outcomes. These outcomes range from the traditional design of tearooms, to the youth fashion phenomena in Harajuku. Design in Japan demonstrates a controlled approach to the subtle nuances that express the design spectrum between excess and austerity. This paper explores the idea of the intricacy of Japanese design as not only being a clear expression of their masterful handling of material and form, but also a demonstration of the amalgamation of cultural paradigms displayed in these various design outcomes. This is no more clearly expressed than in the examination of details used within Japanese design, in particular, the details in traditional Japanese architecture. The methodology involved with this research is mainly focussed on literature reviews of text and journal articles, as well as, review of appropriate exhibitions. But the original journey began years ago with my own education and exposure to the ideas of Japanese design and architecture. Numerous travel tours and design tours to Japan helped to reinforce the connection and unfold their paradoxical world.

Transformasi Pakaian Tradisional di Universitas Jember: Pengaruh Budaya Luar Terhadap Pakaian Tradisional

This research explores changes in fashion styles among Jember University students in the digital era, which are influenced by social media, digital platforms and international cultural migration. Traditional clothing styles have undergone significant changes due to the influence of foreign cultures in design and materials. Students, as active users of social media and the internet, are the main targets of this change, often exposed to the latest fashion trends and campus events that demand a fashionable appearance. Interviews with two FISIP students at the University of Jember revealed that social media greatly influences the way they dress, reflecting Jean Baudrillard's theory about consumer society. According to Baudrillard, consumption not only fulfills basic needs but also functions as a symbol of identity and social status. Jember University students follow fashion trends to express themselves and demonstrate social affiliation, despite facing challenges such as financial management and disrupted academic priorities. This research uses a case study-based qualitative approach, with semi-structured interviews and field observations to obtain in-depth data. Thematic analysis was carried out to identify main themes such as economic conditions, the influence of fashion trends, and the role of social media. This research shows that changes in student fashion styles are not only a fashion phenomenon, but also reflect broader social and cultural dynamics in the digital era. Baudrillard's theory provides a foundation for understanding how symbolic consumption and the influence of social media influence college students' clothing style choices, as well as their impact on their cultural and socio-economic identities.

The Phenomenon of Fast Fashion on Environmental Pollution from The Perspective of Al-Qur'an

The fast fashion phenomenon has become the second most controversial pollution industry in the world after the petroleum industry. Researchers want to instill the values of religiosity and environmental balance to answer the phenomenon of fast fashion and its impact in the Qur'an. The research method used is qualitative research with a type of literature through an analytical descriptive approach and maudhu'i method, through two data sources, namely primary sources in the form of the Qur'an, and secondary sources derived from several studies of tafsir books, journals, and scientific videos about this phenomenon. The researcher concludes that the phenomenon of fast fashion according to the Qur'an is included in unjust behavior that can de-stabilize the earth (Hud verse 116). This phenomenon arises because of the excessive attitude of humans in obeying their lust for fashion (Al-A'raf verse 31 and Al-Mu'minun verse 71). Basically, humans have been given the mind to think about cause and effect (Al-Jatsiyah verse 13). Because, the impact of the fast fashion phenomenon on environmental pollution according to the Qur'an includes the cause of destruction on earth (Yunus 40), pollution of land and sea (Ar-Rum verse 41), irregular industry that makes the environment a mess (Al-Baqarah verse 205), and includes deviant and useless actions (Al-A'raf verse 56).

The Phenomenon of Fast Fashion on Environmental Pollution from The Perspective of Al-Qur'an

The fast fashion phenomenon has become the second most controversial pollution industry in the world after the petroleum industry. Researchers want to instill the values of religiosity and environmental balance to answer the phenomenon of fast fashion and its impact in the Qur'an. The research method used is qualitative research with a type of literature through an analytical descriptive approach and maudhu'i method, through two data sources, namely primary sources in the form of the Qur'an, and secondary sources derived from several studies of tafsir books, journals, and scientific videos about this phenomenon. The researcher concludes that the phenomenon of fast fashion according to the Qur'an is included in unjust behavior that can de-stabilize the earth (Hud verse 116). This phenomenon arises because of the excessive attitude of humans in obeying their lust for fashion (Al-A'raf verse 31 and Al-Mu'minun verse 71). Basically, humans have been given the mind to think about cause and effect (Al-Jatsiyah verse 13). Because, the impact of the fast fashion phenomenon on environmental pollution according to the Qur'an includes the cause of destruction on earth (Yunus 40), pollution of land and sea (Ar-Rum verse 41), irregular industry that makes the environment a mess (Al-Baqarah verse 205), and includes deviant and useless actions (Al-A'raf verse 56).

A Study of the English Translation of Chinese Buzzwords from the Perspective of Functional Equivalence Theory

As the internet and social media develop further, there are numerous buzzwords used by the citizens, which are the fashion phenomena in China. As inter-cultural communication between China and other countries becomes deeper and frequent, an increasing number of foreigners have good command of Chinese culture. As a result, as the cultural bridge between the source and the target receptors, Chinese-English (CE) words translation become increasingly important, playing an obvious role in facilitating our communications. This study aims to apply the functional equivalence theory to the English translation in translating Chinese buzzwords so as to translate the original texts accurately. Four main methods including lexical equivalence, syntactic equivalence, discourse equivalence and stylistic equivalence are applied to have the C-E translation. The result is that lexical and syntactic equivalence are widely applied in the translation practice, which conveys the implicated cultural meanings correctly and feasibly. Furthermore, the methods of discourse equivalence and the stylistic equivalence can also be used to elaborate the implicit meaning as close as the target language. This study examines the translation practice under the guidance of Nida’s theory, providing the proper strategies for interpreters.

Wearable Clothing Drop Box Design Using Persuasive Design Approach

The phenomenon of fast fashion (the trend of dressing in a short period of just six months to two years) is a trend that occurs today. This trend raises the problem of stacking clothes. Clothes that are not reused should be used and distributed to others in need or known as the recycling concept. This study aims to design a drop box that can collect and distribute suitable clothes by using Persuasive Design approach. Dropbox is used to improve the concept of sustainability of clothing products. The initial stage of the study was an interview to explore the target of user behaviour in using clothes and explore the inhibiting factors experienced by users due to confusion in distributing their used clothes. Affective design approach is chosen by applying tunnelling, reduction and conditioning technology methods. Dropbox design built in a physical and digital display of the product. The product evaluation process using Usability Testing with the results obtained an efficiency rate of 100%, an effectiveness of 90.625%, and a System Usability Score (SUS) of 83.44, showing that the prototype has good usability. In the persuasive aspect, namely effectiveness, quality, and capability, average values of 5.75, 6.125, and 5.958 were obtained. Improvement recommendations are made based on the results of evaluation by respondents, namely make a clear information at drop box product and display improvement.

‘Let us play a game of decadence…’

The article polemizes with V. Milchina’s paper that focused on the discussion of the problem of decadence and/or decay in French and Russian intellectual cultures. The author examines several texts that feature the general cultural concept of decay in its meaning of decadence as used in literature in close relation to the concepts of modernity and nihilism. Based on his reconstruction of C. Baudelaire’s polemic with the French writer Barbey d,Aurevilly, S. Fokin concludes that, thanks to their literary dispute, the French word décadence developed a new literary, political, psychological, social, and, most importantly, modern (in reference to modernity) sense, which separates this lexeme from its earlier historical and general cultural meaning of decay. Following an overview of Nietzsche’s latter reaction to Baudelaire’s work, the author emphasizes the concept of ‘the consciousness of decadence,’ which is supposed to reveal the problematic nature of the use of décadence as the name of a literary movement. It refers to a matter more substantial, but also fleeting, transient, and ephemeral — in other words, modern, and therefore, a phenomenon of literary fashion.

Mitigating Pollution at the Source and Textile Waste Minimization in Poland: Findings from In-House Research

Currently, since the fast fashion phenomenon has existed, the number of new collections appearing in chains and online stores has increased from four to about fifty per year, thus the amount of clothing bought by one person per year is on average 16 kilograms, and as a result, the amount of clothing thrown away by Poles themselves is approximately 2.5 million tons of waste per year. From 1996 to 2012, the amount of clothing purchased per capita increased globally by 40%. In the years 2000–2014 it was 60% more. The problem needs to be solved because it causes a lot of damage to the environment and pollutes the environment a lot. All we need to do is extend the life cycle of clothes by 10% and we will save as much as three million tons of CO2 and 150 million liters of water per year. The aim of the article is to analyze two closely related areas: customers' awareness of the impact of clothing production on the environment and their attitude towards reusing unwanted clothing, and solutions implemented by e-shops in the fashion industry in the area of consumer returns management. The analysis used the results of secondary research and the author's own periodic research from 2017-2023.

Organizational fashion and trend setting in the hospitality industry

PurposeThis study aims to use organizational fashion to underscore a novel phenomenon in which products, services and practices fade in and out of the tourism/hospitality setting within a specific time frame. Drawing from the fashion theoretical strands in organization research, this paper studies how fashion has been conceptualized, operationalized and then diffused among tourism/hospitality enterprises.Design/methodology/approachA qualitative case design was used. A total of 37 semistructured in-depth interviews with executives of innovative tourism/hospitality companies (e.g. restaurants, hotels, theme parks and travel agencies) were conducted. This paper focuses on the organizational fashion phenomenon in which organizational trendsetters with creative, “hot” products/services have emerged prominently in the marketplace.FindingsThis inquiry illustrates a social phenomenon concerning the organizational fashion setting process by integrating existing production practices among different organizational suppliers in the hospitality sector. Different cases in the study show that fashion consists of a series of hybrid, paradoxical processes. These include conceptualization (conventionalization vs novelty, and personalization vs conformity), operationalization (bundling vs unbundling, and learning vs relearning) and diffusion (framing vs co-framing, and adaptation vs alteration).Research limitations/implicationsThroughout the three continuous processes, service design and identity development for consumption, as well as value creation and knowledge transformation for production, are carried out according to the decision of what is “hot” and what is “out” at a particular time. In essence, fashion helps to explain why hospitality institutions imitate specific innovations to take advantage of popular trends in the consumer market, as well as how such trends vanish eventually.Originality/valueThis research contributes the insight that organizations use fashion as a managerial initiative to translate their organizational goals and improvise nascent products and services. The fashion processes can be triggered by microlevel individual organizations and are spread through a series of social interactions to become macrolevel phenomena in a recurring manner.

Analysis of Roland Barthes' Semiotic Theory as an Approach to Assessing Urban Fashion

Semiotics is a technique of studying the workings and functions of signs. The researcher analyzes Roland Barthes' semiotic approach which develops the ideas of one of the semioticians, Ferdinand de Saussure, and tries to apply the study of signs more broadly. The focus of this research is to find the meaning of a fashion phenomenon, namely urban fashion. Over time, the urban word developed as a person's lifestyle, so that the urban word was associated with fashion. In this study, the method used is qualitative. Carrying out a qualitative method system, researchers can analyze an image or photograph with Barthes' semiotic approach developed from Saussure, namely denotation, connotation and myth.

Этапы становления индустрии западноевропейской моды: исторический анализ

The article presents the results of the analytical study of the stages of formation and development of West Eu-ropean fashion industry. The authors define the time frame for the emergence of the social phenomenon of fashion and the corresponding industry. In the chronological sequence with reference to historical sources the main changes in society that led to the formation of the fashion industry are considered: the improvement of tools of labor, the growth of commodity handicraft production, the formation of workshops, the development of urban culture, manufactory production, technical revolution, the emergence of high fashion, the issue of glossy magazines, the formation of light industry, the intensification of production. The main conclusions of the study are the following: firstly, the fashion industry is formed as a Western European phenomenon; secondly, histori-cally, there are two main types of goods of the fashion industry – designed for the elite, high society and mass products oriented to consumers of the middle and lower classes; thirdly, the fashion industry becomes part of industrial production in the XX century, obeying the requirements of mass production.

Fashion for Folklore and Ethnic Design as a Stimulator of Creativity in Business

The basic feature of fashion is changeability, foreign to traditional societies. Its phenomenon is associated with modernity and the dynamics of civilizational changes. It shapes a community of diversity, satisfies the human need for convergence and individuality at the same time. Fashionable trends are present today in various areas of social, cultural, business (dress code) and even scientific life. For marketing specialists, fashion is a useful economic and market tool. The aim of the article is an attempt to describe and interpret the phenomenon of fashion for folk, ethnic design and aesthetics, used in a creative way in business in the context of activities in the field of folklore. In the course of the research procedure, non-reactive methods were used literature analysis with the elements of a case study as well as internet query.

ANALISIS STRATEGI PENGEMBANGAN BISNIS DENGAN PENDEKATAN BUSINESS MODEL CANVAS DAN SWOT

The phenomenon of fast fashion makes people highly consumptive in order to keep up with the current trend, but this behavior is environmentally unfriendly. One of the efforts to reduce the impact of fast fashion is reselling used clothes. The objective of this research is to identify the strength, weakness, opportunity, and threat of a business that are going to be sued to create a business plan. This qualitative research was conducted to grip certain understanding about the application of Business Model Canvas (BMC) and SWOT Analysis at Secondhand.jbg. the instrument of analysis is the Business Model Canvas (BMC), while SWOT analysis was used to identify the company’s internal and external conditions. Following the discovery of the internal and external factors, SWOT was employed to do to matching. The data of this research was acquired from interviews, observation, and documentation at the research site, i.e. Secondhand.jbg’s store. This study finds that the company needs to remake its business model using the Future Business Model Canvas. In the run, the shop is advised to run its business plan to develop its entire functional aspects in order to face the competition.

The Impact of Fast Fashion on Marine Plastic Pollution

While widespread internet use has increased the convenience of shopping, it has also changed the shopping behavior of the public. Fast fashion is a term used to describe the mass production of cheap, trendy clothing that is designed to be worn for a short time and then disposed of. A fashion trend cycle is the period during which a trend circulates and retains popularity. In this paper, we aim to provide an overview of the phenomenon of fast fashion and its negative effect on waterways. We describe the issue in today’s society and how it contributes to the pollution of waterways during its production and daily wear. This is a global issue, but it is especially prevalent in Asia where large quantities of cheap clothing are produced. Next, we highlight how this issue has been perceived by different groups, including business communities, policy makers, and consumers. Finally, we offer two potential solutions to the issue, proposing a policy to regulate the manufacturing processes of fast fashion brands and lowering the demand for fast fashion by encouraging the public to engage in sustainable fashion.

Communication Features of Sustainable Fashion on Instagram: Use of the Hashtag #sustainablefashion

Scientific research indicates that perceptions of sustainable fashion are diverse and influenced by regional, cultural, and industry-specific attitudes and behaviours. Recent studies highlight the growing impact of social media on individual knowledge, attitudes, and behaviours, particularly Instagram’s role in promoting sustainable fashion values and encouraging appropriate consumer behaviour. The article presents a study aimed at identifying the contexts of sustainable fashion communication on Instagram in Lithuania, highlighting the key actors of the sustainable fashion ecosystem, the subject matter of the communication and the specifics of its presentation. The study found that Instagram in Lithuania is dominated by the concept of sustainable fashion, and the majority of accounts communicating sustainable fashion are commercial entities. The study also revealed that opinion leaders are not actively involved in the communication of sustainable fashion, most accounts using the hashtag have a small number of followers, and the content they publish does not expand on the topic of sustainability, but only mentions it. The posts that do dive deeper into the topic of sustainability show a multifaceted perception of the phenomenon of sustainable fashion and the issues surrounding it, determined by the different perspectives of the actors involved in the communication.

АКТИВІЗАЦІЯ РОЗВИТКУ УСВІДОМЛЕНОГО СПОЖИВАННЯ В КОНТЕКСТІ СОЦІАЛЬНО-ЕТИЧНОГО МАРКЕТИНГУ

The study is devoted to the analysis of the essence of conscious consumption, its level in Ukraine and the world, and the analysis of the determinants of the development of the concept of conscious fashion in the context of social and ethical marketing. In the economic complex of developed countries, on the one hand, the fashion industry occupies a significant share in consumer spending, employment, and the volume of direct investments, and on the other hand, it is in second place in terms of harmful effects and environmental pollution. The environmental and social aspects of the fashion industry force businesses to follow the trends of conscious fashion, the purpose of which is to be responsible for the environment and make thoughtful purchases. Authors describe the basic principles of the concept of responsible consumption and production. A worthy alternative to mindless and uncontrolled consumption is customization, which is developing as the opposite of globalization and depersonalization of individuality. In addition, sites that offer a mutual exchange of used clothing are growing in popularity around the world. Sustainable fashion is a concept that implies a more holistic approach to fashion, a slower pace of production and consumption. The article defines the conceptual foundations of the modern phenomenon of sustainable fashion and characterized the main segments of the sustainable fashion market. Conscious fashion in Ukraine is still far from developed, due to the lack of certified production recognized by international standards, but in Ukraine there is a large practice of realizing the concept of conscious consumption through platforms for the sale and exchange of old things. Authors emphasize that an important direction of conscious consumption is the wider implementation of alternative sources of raw materials, and the strengthening of the concept of conscious consumption is greatly facilitated by social media, which are becoming indispensable marketing tools for sharing brand stories, creating communities and selling/buying fashion goods. An important aspect of social and ethical marketing in the fashion industry is that the concept of sustainable fashion is supported by government initiatives around the world that are certainly changing the landscape of the industry. It is important that social and ethical marketing becomes the norm of activity on the market, and not just an innovative direction. Modern marketing communications should be aimed not only at maximizing profits, but also at promoting the education of a responsible consumerism. In turn, an educated and conscious consumer will be an active player of the market and will stimulate producers to social and ethical responsibility.

"ЛІНГВІСТИКА МОДИ": ТРЕНДОВІ НАЦІОНАЛЬНО МАРКОВАНІ МЕТАФОРИ (НА МАТЕРІАЛІ МОВИ ГАЗЕТИ)

The socio-psycho-linguistic phenomenon of fashion draws considerable linguists’ attention: one can trace the methodological foundations of this phenomenon study being dynamically developed, the formation of a corresponding metalanguage, as well as the formation of research aspects and domains, which makes it possible to justify the emergence of "fashion linguistics" as a new linguistic direction. One of the tasks of "fashion linguistics" is the study of trendy metaphors in the media style as the most popular in today’s discursive space. The newspaper language is considered to be the source that attests to the distinctiveness of the Ukrainian language progress, demonstrates its development peculiarities, as well as its corresponding trend changes. In recent years, the journalistic style has changed, which is related to extralinguistic factors – democratization of society, Russia’s invasion, increasing the Ukrainian language prestige, Ukrainian culture and history presentation, etc. The newspaper images is based on a metaphor, which is skillfully modeled by speakers, realizing various formulas, including traditional and innovative, trendy ones. One can currently view the renewal of the Ukrainian metaphor fund, which generally expands the scope of national metaphors given the specificty of Ukrainians’ mentality, the precedent expressions manifestation, as well as precedent situations for the successful creation of a language game, original meanings modeling. In journalistic style texts, we fix the fashion for so-called phytonyms, created in accordance with the Ukrainian natural philosophy principles, such as: "pumpkin metaphor", "garlic metaphor", "bean metaphor". Thus, Ukrainian media discourse demonstrates a fashion for national, a fashion for language creativity, which is embodied in Ukrainian linguistic culture. The perspective of the research is in tracking and studying the so-called fashion trends in language, in particular fashionable metaphors, in the possibilities of creating a national fund of metaphors, as well as in paying attention to the development of the terminology of fashion linguistics.