Pattern Pieces Research Articles

Evaluating women's jacket sleeves designs for sustainable fashion and textile waste reduction

Finding the most efficient marker planning method is crucial to reduce cut-and-sew waste. Small adjustments to the design and pattern can help reduce the amount of fabric waste, since marking loss happens during the cutting process because of spaces and unusable sections between pattern pieces and the curved pattern edges. Existing research mainly concentrates on optimising the consumption of textile material without taking into account the design, aesthetics and functionality of the final product. On the other hand, they are mainly focused on optimizing the sleeves’ construction and in search of new design solutions, with gaps in quantitative and comparative analysis to reduce waste while producing women's jackets. This article aims to propose and explore constructive changes in women's jacket designs with 5 different types of sleeves, to assess the possibility of reducing cut-and-sew waste levels in the cutting process. There have been created 4 different marker plans for each type of sleeve to achieve the high-efficiency markers. It was found that the semi-raglan sleeve showed the marker efficiency with the best results (76.04%), followed by the raglan sleeve with 72.03% and 72.34% for the drop shoulder sleeve. Interestingly, for the raglan and semi-raglan sleeve variants, the marker efficiency is not affected by the specific geometric characteristics. The Principal Component Analysis (PCA) method was used to determine which pattern arrangement variant was most appropriate for the different sleeve types.

Automatic Digital Garment Initialization from Sewing Patterns

The rapid advancement of digital fashion and generative AI technology calls for an automated approach to transform digital sewing patterns into well-fitted garments on human avatars. When given a sewing pattern with its associated sewing relationships, the primary challenge is to establish an initial arrangement of sewing pieces that is free from folding and intersections. This setup enables a physics-based simulator to seamlessly stitch them into a digital garment, avoiding undesirable local minima. To achieve this, we harness AI classification, heuristics, and numerical optimization. This has led to the development of an innovative hybrid system that minimizes the need for user intervention in the initialization of garment pieces. The seeding process of our system involves the training of a classification network for selecting seed pieces, followed by solving an optimization problem to determine their positions and shapes. Subsequently, an iterative selection-arrangement procedure automates the selection of pattern pieces and employs a phased initialization approach to mitigate local minima associated with numerical optimization. Our experiments confirm the reliability, efficiency, and scalability of our system when handling intricate garments with multiple layers and numerous pieces. According to our findings, 68 percent of garments can be initialized with zero user intervention, while the remaining garments can be easily corrected through user operations.

A clothing pattern generating framework based on scanned human body model

PurposeAccurate and automatic clothing pattern making is very important in personalized clothing customization and virtual fitting room applications. Clothing pattern generating as well as virtual clothing simulation is an attractive research issue both in clothing industry and computer graphics.Design/methodology/approachPhysics-based method is an effective way to model dynamic process and generate realistic clothing animation. Due to conceptual simplicity and computational speed, mass-spring model is frequently used to simulate deformable and soft objects follow the natural physical rules. We present a physics-based clothing pattern generating framework by using scanned human body model. After giving a scanned human body model, first, we extract feature points, planes and curves on the 3D model by geometric analysis, and then, we construct a remeshed surface which has been formatted to connected quad meshes. Second, for each clothing piece in 3D, we construct a mass-spring model with same topological structures, and conduct a typical time integration algorithm to the mass-spring model. Finally, we get the convergent clothing pieces in 2D of all clothing parts, and we reconnected parts which are adjacent on 3D model to generate the basic clothing pattern.FindingsThe results show that the presented method is a feasible way for clothing pattern generating by use of scanned human body model.Originality/valueThe main contribution of this work is twofold: one is the geometric algorithm to scanned human body model, which is specially conducted for clothing pattern design to extract feature points, planes and curves. This is the crucial base for suit clothing pattern generating. Another is the physics-based pattern generating algorithm which flattens the 3D shape to 2D shape of cloth pattern pieces.

Flexible Design of Garment Styles to Support the Minimal Waste Concept in the Fashion Industry

Abstract Currently, the design of garment styles is weakly supporting the MWD concept. It is kept fixed during all its very changeable manufacturing process, thereby increasing pre- and post-consumer fabric wastes. To improve the situation the final values of construction parameters which influence fabric use efficiency should be determined for every unique production order only in the garment manufacturing process. Four garment styles were tested to see how light changes in their width and length influence fabric use efficiency. Even minimal reduction of these parameters can give noticeable fabric savings. Different values of these parameters create slightly different shapes of pattern pieces, and with it, give a huge number of new possibilities to create more efficient production markers. The authors found a way how to make the garment designing process more efficient, as well as, to create a “virtual bridge” between garment designing and the manufacturing phase. Both improvements could give serious benefits: reduced fabric use and product price, as well as, reduced pre- and post-consumer textile material wastes.

Military camouflage classification with Mask R-CNN algorithm

Camouflage, which is used as an art of hiding by living things in nature, started to be used in the military field in the 19th century with the widespread use of long-range firearms. When factors such as different nations, environment and climate are considered, we come across camouflages in various colors and patterns. Over time, the camouflage patterns adopted and used by countries or unions have become national identity. This study is on the classification and segmentation of camouflaged soldiers of 5 countries with deep learning. While the similarity of the camouflaged area with the background makes segmentation difficult, it becomes difficult to classify each camouflage pattern due to the cut of the fabric and the different locations of the pattern pieces on each soldier. There are different studies in the literature that are referred to as camouflage or pattern classification. The mentioned studies are in the form of segmentation of camouflaged object or classification of camouflaged objects of different types. Since the segmented and classified objects in this study are camouflaged soldiers, what is expected from the deep learning algorithm is to classify the objects mainly according to the camouflage pattern, not their outlines. In the study, 861 camouflaged soldier images were collected for 5 countries (Türkiye-Azerbaijan, USA, Russia, China, France) and polygonal labeling was made. Türkiye and Azerbaijan are considered a class as they have similar camouflages. For the solution of the problem, military camouflage classification was discussed with the Mask R-CNN algorithm, which is widely used today for object detection, segmentation and classification, and the importance of deep learning algorithms has been proven with such a difficult problem. The training resulted in 0.005219 classification loss and 0.03985 masking loss. The classification and segmentation success rate of the study is 95%.

Uticaj arhitekture u dizajnu odeće

This paper describes and state the relationship between architecture and fashion, as both disciplines respond to the culture and environment of individuals and societies. Very often fashion designers were inspired by architecture, but also architects were inspired from the fashion creations. Very often, designers in their fashion pieces reflect the architectural constructions. The aim of this work is architecture, an art that, like fashion, is the fruit of creativity. More precise, the architecture is used as inspiration for creating two fashion models. The basic construction of a dress is used and then with use of modeling, the pattern pieces are created. With these models women's fashion is bring closer to and shows the connection with architecture. At the end we get the conclusion that both, the fashion and architecture, in the past and in the future, remain two arts that are connected through creativity, inspiration, technology and human imagination.

The Benefits of using Computerized system over Manual System in Apparel Production

Bangladesh's clothing industry is the backbone of the country's economy. One of the most crucial first phases in the apparel industry is to create and develop garment patterns based on the anticipated apparel's specifications, and then to plan the marker and cut the fabric according to the pattern pieces. These can be done manually or with the use of Computer Aided Design (CAD) and Computer Aided Manufacturing (CAM) software (CAM). The garment business has been transformed by computer-aided design (CAD) and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM). Because fabric costs account for a large portion of the cost of garment manufacture, it is critical to properly utilize the fabric and reduce the percentage of fabric waste (percent). Additionally, minimizing production time will reduce lead time even more. Although CAD/CAM is expensive, it has a number of economic and technological advantages over other methods. GUB JOURNAL OF SCIENCE AND ENGINEERING, Vol 8, Dec 2021 P 36-40

Research regarding new sustainable methods of garment pattern drafting

Based on the present need for change in the garment industry, multiple solutions for waste reducing have been established. It has become common to associate fashion with pollution, and this association has its roots in the statistic data that constantly raise red flags regarding the negative impact that our everyday textiles have over the planet. The following paper has been developed under the strict rules that the zero waste pattern drafting has, keeping in mind the design and product finishing matters. Further possible issues have been taken into account whilst defining and shaping the pattern pieces, aiming to obtain a product that is framed by proper aesthetics, fit, zero waste drafting technique and quality finishing. The way in which the waste management can be kept under control from the pattern drafting step is the key to gaining a sustainable clothing item. Apart from the fabric scraps, the time and energy needed for sampling can also be optimized, by using the virtual prototyping opportunity. These two crucial elements, combined, led to garments that can last in time. The nexus of the garment manufacturing techniques that have increased in popularity lately has been elaborated in the following paper, following the process accordingly, shaping into a number of digital clothing items. The method used can be successfully implemented by clothing manufacturers that wish to adopt a healthy and non pollutive process.

Computational pattern making from 3D garment models

We propose a method for computing a sewing pattern of a given 3D garment model. Our algorithm segments an input 3D garment shape into patches and computes their 2D parameterization, resulting in pattern pieces that can be cut out of fabric and sewn together to manufacture the garment. Unlike the general state-of-the-art approaches for surface cutting and flattening, our method explicitly targets garment fabrication. It accounts for the unique properties and constraints of tailoring, such as seam symmetry, the usage of darts, fabric grain alignment, and a flattening distortion measure that models woven fabric deformation, respecting its anisotropic behavior. We bootstrap a recent patch layout approach developed for quadrilateral remeshing and adapt it to the purpose of computational pattern making, ensuring that the deformation of each pattern piece stays within prescribed bounds of cloth stress. While our algorithm can automatically produce the sewing patterns, it is fast enough to admit user input to creatively iterate on the pattern design. Our method can take several target poses of the 3D garment into account and integrate them into the sewing pattern design. We demonstrate results on both skintight and loose garments, showcasing the versatile application possibilities of our approach.

Investigation of the visual appearance of different skirt styles and materials during the fitting simulation with Lectra Modaris

This paper examines the influence of different fabric types and material properties on the visual appearance of three types of skirt styles using numerical simulation. The purpose of the simulation is to present and analyze the appearance of virtual garments, create the best-fitting pattern pieces, and choose the appropriate fabric type based on the multiple clothing styles to achieve the intended design. The results show that when the type of fabric changes without changing the clothing style and on the other hand the style changes without changing the type of material, the appearance of the garment changes and the effect can be clearly seen with the 3d comparison result. These changes should be taken into account when choosing the right fabric for different styles.

RESEARCH REGARDING NEW SUSTAINABLE METHODS OF GARMENT PATTERN DRAFTING

Based on the present need for change in the garment industry, multiple solutions for waste reducing have been established. It has become common to associate fashion with pollution, and this association has its roots in the statistical data that constantly raise red flags regarding the negative impact that our everyday textiles have over the planet. The following paper has been developed under the strict rules that the zero waste pattern drafting has, keeping in mind the design and product finishing matters. Further possible issues have been taken into account whilst defining and shaping the pattern pieces, aiming to obtain a product that is framed by proper aesthetics, fit, zero waste drafting technique and quality finishing. The way in which the waste management can be kept under control from the pattern drafting step is the key to gaining a sustainable clothing item. Apart from the fabric scraps, the time and energy needed for sampling can also be optimized, by using the virtual prototyping opportunity. These two crucial elements, combined, led to garments that can last in time. The nexus of the garment manufacturing techniques that have increased in popularity lately has been elaborated in the following paper, following the process accordingly, shaping into a number of digital clothing items. The method used can be successfully implemented by clothing manufacturers that wish to adopt a healthy and non pollutive process.

A Pattern Making Approach to Improving Zero-Waste Fashion Design

Whilst zero-waste fashion with creative pattern making is shaping sustainable fashion, excessive pattern pieces, complicated workmanship, and limited fashion styles are continuing to trouble designers. As a means of addressing the problem, the key attributes of clothing style, body dimensions, and textile performance are the basis for this research. This article proposes a zero-waste pattern making approach comprising three techniques: One-piece Manipulation (OM), Segmentation and Reconstruction (SR), and Fabric Elasticity Application (FEA). On the basis of body dimensions, different garments could be designed by manipulating the excess fabric on garments with the application of fitting devices, embellishments, and three-dimensional forms. With regard to this approach’s workflow, zero-waste garment practices were designed in the three techniques, illustrating that the approach built both an effective and efficient framework for subsequent zero-waste design. This systematic approach makes contributions to support zero-waste design in various garment constructions and simultaneously reflects the principle of zero-waste fashion.

Detection of hard exudate using retinal optical coherence tomography (OCT) images

To distinguish DR retinal one device is utilized called Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT). So to break down hard exudates (HEs) and their antecedents in patients with diabetic retinopathy (DR) by utilizing Optical Coherence Tomography (OCT) pictures is fundamental. Hard Exudates (HEs) are one kind of principle sign of DR. It is the back shaft of an eye with macular edema. Modified acknowledgment of HE from the retinal picture is a critical development for the area of DR. HE is an essential in the eye for those having diabetes. This Hard Exudates can provoke visual weakness if not managed before all else stages. This errand is a piece of the whole pattern of perceiving the hard exudates in their starting stages. Concentrate fundamental features which can help us in the recognizable proof of the HE. Therefore, HE area is indispensable for clinical discoveries. Consequently, HE location is vital for clinical finding.

A Picasso paper collage of 1913\u201314: assessment of fragility and sensitivity to light

The construction and present condition of Picasso’s Bottle of Vieux Marc, Glass, Guitar and Newspaper 1913, in the Tate collection since 1961, are described. Technical examination, materials analysis and microfading have been carried out on both the support and the collage elements, which include handmade paper, two elements made from broderie anglaise pattern pieces ironed onto paper, damaged water-resistant flock wallpaper and old newsprint. These indicate that the collage is not poorly constructed, but is sensitive to light as was expected, especially the support, pattern pieces and wallpaper. Based on the microfading, the current display recommendation for light exposure is 12 months in 4 years, which is half the exposure recommended for typical works on paper at Tate, at 50–80 lx without ultraviolet light.

3D interactive garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing based on constrained contour lines

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to propose an interactive 2D–3D garment parametric pattern-making and linkage editing scheme that integrates clothing design, simulation and interaction to design 3D garments and 2D patterns. The proposed scheme has the potential to satisfy the individual needs of fashion industry, such as precise fit evaluation of the garment, interactive style editing with ease allowance and constrained contour lines in fashion design.Design/methodology/approachThe authors first construct a parametric pattern-making model for flat pattern design corresponding to the body dimensions. Then, the designing 2D patterns are stitched on a virtual 3D mannequin by performing a virtual try-on. If the customer is unsatisfied after the virtual try-on, the adjustable parameters (appearance parameters and fit parameters) can be adjusted using the 2D–3D linkage editing with hierarchical constrained contour lines, and the fit evaluation tool interactively provides the feedback.FindingsThe authors observed that the usability and efficiency of the existing garment pattern-making method simplifies the garment pattern-making process. The authors utilize an interactive garment parametric flat pattern-making model to generate an individualized garment flat pattern that effectively adjust and realize the local editing of the garment pattern-making. The 2D–3D linkage editing is then employed, which alters the size and shape of garment pattern for a precise human model fit of the 3D garment using hierarchical constrained contour lines. Various instances have validated the effectiveness of the proposed scheme, which can increase the reusability of the existing garment styles and improve the efficiency of fashion design.Research limitations/implicationsFirst, the authors do not consider the garment pattern-making design of sophisticated styles. Second, the authors do not directly consider complex garment shapes such as wrinkles, folds, multi-layer models and fabric physical properties.Originality/valueThe authors propose a pattern adjustment scheme that uses the 3D virtual try-on technology to avoid repetitions of reality-based fit tests and garment sample making in the designing process of clothing products. The proposed scheme provides interactive selections of garment patterns and sizes and renders modification tools for 3D garment designing and 2D garment pattern-making. The authors present the 2D–3D interactive linkage editing scheme for a custom-fit garment pattern based on the hierarchical constraint contour lines. The spatial relationship among the human body, pattern pieces and 3D garment model is adequately expressed, and the final design result of the garment pattern is obtained by constraint solving. Meanwhile, the tightness tension of different parts of the 3D garment is analyzed, and the fit and comfort of the garment are quantitatively evaluated.

Visual performance improvement analytics of predictive model for unbalanced panel data

An unbalanced panel is a dataset in which at least one subject is not observed some times. Moreover, each subject is recorded with irregular periods and intervals. Therefore, only short trend pattern pieces exist in the data. When applying existing prediction techniques, it is challenging to create a prediction model that reflects individual subject patterns. Also, uncertainties in the predicted results emerge since the overall trend of the data is unknown. In this paper, we present a Bayesian network to predict the future trends of subjects from the unbalanced panel data. We also present a new approach to estimate the predicted intervals of the predicted results. Moreover, we propose a visual analytics system that enables us to build a prediction model from unbalanced panel data. The visual analytics system also supports performance improvement in the already designed prediction model. We evaluate the effectiveness of our system while building a predictive model according to various data patterns.

Marker za krojenje navlake avionskog sedišta

A cut marker shows how pattern pieces should be cut from one or several layers of fabric and it has a direct impact on fabric consumption. In the confection industry besides clothes, items are made for other purposes. In this paper, an analysis of the making a cut marker for aircraft seat cover is made as well as a description of the materials needed. Aircraft seat cover is made from multilayer (laminated) materials and natural leather. Process of making the cut marker of headrest cover, the backrest cover and the legrest cover is especially considered in this paper. The cost of the material for the production of the aircraft seat cover is calculated with the help of the cut marker. The manufactured aircraft seat cover should be of top quality, which is an imperative today due to the serious competition in the market.

조선 후기 당의(唐衣)의 금장식 문양에 관한 연구

This study examined 24 pieces of gold ornament patterns on dang-ui(唐衣) relics worn by the royal women of the Joseon period in ceremonies from the late 18th to early 20th centuries. Observation of the relics shows that most of the gold ornaments on the dang-ui were based on the ‘subokhwamun(壽福花紋)’, which has ‘subok(壽福)’ characters with treasure patterns and flower patterns placed in a check pattern. Four types of subokhwamun were produced based on form and method. First, the ‘geumsubokja jig-geum’ dang-ui, which added silk with supplementary gold wefts only on the subok characters while weaving the base fabric used for dang-ui into the subokhwamun. There is also a ‘jig-geum’ dang-ui that renders the tongsu-seuran pattern by imprinting the pattern used on the subokhwamun base fabric to the shoulders and arms as well as the end of the front and rear hem. Even though the clothes can be in the same form, gold imprints can be used to express different patterns. The dang-ui recorded as ‘geumsubokja’ refers to the dang-ui with gold-imprinted subok characters, and ‘bu-geum’ dang-ui refers to dang-ui with gold-imprinted tongsu-seuran pattern. Another dang-ui, distinguished by the silk with supplementary gold wefts, works in tandem with the base weave to depict a pattern, the composition or shape of the pattern was made to follow the trends of the time while the arrangement method remained relatively conservative. On the other hand, the gold-imprinted dang-ui has seen more diverse and free changes to its patterns due to its technical trait of completing the pattern after the completion of the clothes.

Optimized single-shot power-spectrum imaging method for objects with complex structure hidden by opaque scattering media

The single-shot coherent power-spectrum imaging method has the potential to improve the algorithm speed for obtaining images of objects hidden by opaque scattering media under coherent illumination. In order to extend the single-shot coherent power-spectrum imaging method for real-time imaging of hidden objects with complex structures and large non-sparsity, we propose an optimized method. By applying strengthened Fourier-domain constraints with nonlinear modulus and corresponding necessary optimized algorithm to the method, the experimental results demonstrate that, with only one piece of power-spectrum pattern obtained by a camera separated by scattering media from the object with complex structures, our imaging method can quickly reconstruct the clear object image with low error rate. Furthermore, the success rate and the resuming time of the image reconstruction process for complex objects hidden by scattering media had been much improved, which make the method prospective for wide application range of real-time coherent scattering imaging of practical objects.

Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) to tackle over sixty billion square metres of fabric wastage during mass production of apparel

This paper for the first time demonstrates the application of the concept of Zero-Waste Pattern Cutting (ZWPC) into mass production of apparel to tackle over 60 billion square metres of scarp fabrics being produced by the fashion industry annually. A strategic framework for implementing ZWPC for multiple sizes of clothing was first developed, then applied and tested on two styles of garments in multiple sizes. Digital pattern cutting and marker making techniques were used to design and cut pattern pieces of different sizes of garments for same style. Physical prototypes were made, and wearer trials were done to check the fit of clothing. It was found that over 98% of fabric utilisation was achieved for both styles, while in traditional industrial practice over 85% is considered impossible. This indicates that the strategic framework for implementing ZWPC in mass production of clothing is effective to result in a much cleaner production. This leads to the development of a ZWPC paradigm for the apparel industry and a novel apparel design process. This framework can be further improved by testing with many different styles of garments being manufactured by the fashion industry today. This will bring a huge practical implication to the apparel industry by offering a leaner and cleaner production strategy.