조선 후기 당의(唐衣)의 금장식 문양에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study examined 24 pieces of gold ornament patterns on dang-ui(唐衣) relics worn by the royal women of the Joseon period in ceremonies from the late 18th to early 20th centuries. Observation of the relics shows that most of the gold ornaments on the dang-ui were based on the ‘subokhwamun(壽福花紋)’, which has ‘subok(壽福)’ characters with treasure patterns and flower patterns placed in a check pattern. Four types of subokhwamun were produced based on form and method. First, the ‘geumsubokja jig-geum’ dang-ui, which added silk with supplementary gold wefts only on the subok characters while weaving the base fabric used for dang-ui into the subokhwamun. There is also a ‘jig-geum’ dang-ui that renders the tongsu-seuran pattern by imprinting the pattern used on the subokhwamun base fabric to the shoulders and arms as well as the end of the front and rear hem. Even though the clothes can be in the same form, gold imprints can be used to express different patterns. The dang-ui recorded as ‘geumsubokja’ refers to the dang-ui with gold-imprinted subok characters, and ‘bu-geum’ dang-ui refers to dang-ui with gold-imprinted tongsu-seuran pattern. Another dang-ui, distinguished by the silk with supplementary gold wefts, works in tandem with the base weave to depict a pattern, the composition or shape of the pattern was made to follow the trends of the time while the arrangement method remained relatively conservative. On the other hand, the gold-imprinted dang-ui has seen more diverse and free changes to its patterns due to its technical trait of completing the pattern after the completion of the clothes.