Original Fabric Research Articles

Photothermal and superhydrophobic composite coatings with sandwich and interlocking structure for effective anti-icing and de-icing

The accumulation of ice has brought so many troubles to our daily life and production. To achieve more efficient and environmentally friendly anti-icing and de-icing, combining active and passive methods is an effective strategy for ice prevention and removal. In this study, low-cost and widely available black carbon (BC) and versatile biomimetic adhesion polydopamine (PDA) were selected as photothermal conversion ingredient. Utilizing a simple stirring process and interfacial polymerization, the superhydrophobic photothermal fabric with sandwich structure was obtained. The presence of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and BC/PDA mixed intermediate layer allows for more efficient absorption of solar radiation, facilitating rapid heat conduction and accumulation. Under about 1 Sun illumination, the coatings can reach a maximum surface temperature of 95.6 ± 2 °C. Moreover, the exceptional hydrophobicity of the coatings can help minimize the pollutants' adhesion, decrease the nucleation sites and prolong the time before ice formation. As a result, the coating exhibited a freezing time of 2.8 times slower than that of the original fabric. Under 1 Sun illumination, it took about 53 s for sliding off the surface. The de-icing time is one-eighth of that of the bare substrate. More importantly, the coating also exhibited excellent mechanical, chemical and cycling stability, making it promising for practical de-icing applications.

A Review of the Mineralogy, Petrography, and Geochemistry of Serpentinite from Calabria Regions (Southern Italy): Problem or Georesource?

Serpentinite rocks testify to the ocean-floor metamorphism that took place and transformed the original mineralogy and fabric of previous ultramafic rocks. Due to their tectonic and petrological importance, in recent decades, there has been increasing interest in serpentinites. From the economic point of view, it is worth noting that, due to their beauty and attractiveness, serpentinite rocks have been exploited and traded as building and ornamental stones since prehistorical times worldwide. In this work, we provide a comprehensive report of the petrographic, mineralogical, petrophysical, and geochemical features of the serpentinites cropping out in the northern sector of the Calabria–Peloritani Orogen (Italy), where the historical quarries are located. Since these serpentinite rocks have been traded for a long time and employed as an excellent building material, their detailed knowledge may provide a useful tool to understand their behavior when they are employed as building materials, to predict their performances upon emplacement in monuments, and to plan correct restoration by considering the provenance of the lithotypes employed. Moreover, comprehensive characterization is also particularly important because it has been reported that serpentinites from Calabria may contain asbestiform and other fibrous minerals, as testified by the occurrence of chrysotile, tremolite, and actinolite asbestos located within the veins, which could lead to health problems due to asbestos fiber exposure. Finally, serpentinite may be considered as an important potential CO2 sequestration sink.

Releases of microplastics and chemicals from nonwoven polyester fabric-based polyurethane synthetic leather by photoaging

The nonwoven PET fabrics are chemically, mechanically and thermally treated fiber aggregate without weaving, knitting or braiding, which could be used as a base to make polyurethane (PU) synthetic leather through a series of processing. Our research systematically compared the photoaging behaviors of pure non-woven PET base fabric (NPET-P) and PU synthetic leather (nonwoven PET-base fabrics with PU coating, NPET-U), and their possibilities for microplastic fibers (MPFs) generation and chemical transformation in water. NPET-U was photoaged to a higher oxidation degree with higher O/C ratios and more distinct changes in chemical structures. The amount of MPFs released from NPET-U (1.98 × 107 g/fibers) was significantly lower than that from NPET-P (4.76 × 107 g/fibers) after 360 h light irradiation (p value <0.05) with a slower degradation rate and delayed MPFs release. The lengths and diameters of released MPFs from NPET-U varied within a smaller range than that from NPET-P exposed to UV light irradiation. Natural sunlight aging of fabrics for 365 days was found to be equivalent to approximately 85.3–127.2 h UV aging in the laboratory, which indicated the lab accelerated experiments was extraordinarily intense to simulate natural sunlight aging. Furthermore, abundant calcium and sulfur-contained chemicals were detected in original fabrics and the leachate of 360 h light-aged fabrics using the inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometer (ICP-OES). The organic components of the leachate were separated according to their molecular weight with the changes of dissolved organic carbon (DOC), dissolved organic nitrogen (DON), and the UV response over aging time. UV stimulation aggravated the role of plastic polymers as disinfection by-product (DBP) precursors. Nevertheless, although NPET-U could produce more nitrogen-contained chemicals, it had similar formation potentials of nitrogen-containing DBPs as NPET-P. The discussion lucubrated the potential risks of the production of MPFs and chemical release in the leachate with regard to combined plastic pollution.

Construction of a durable superhydrophobic flame-retardant coating on the PET fabrics

In order to meet the increasing demand for fire prevention and pollution prevention of polyester fiber fabrics (PET) in different scenes, it is imperative to develop surface coatings with superhydrophobic and flame retardant properties. However, how to realize all these functions at the same time is still a big challenge. In this work, fluorinated PDMS was obtained through the cross-linking reaction between fluorosilane and PDMS, which was evenly mixed with the combustion product of silicone rubber (mainly composed of SiO2) and ammonium polyphosphate (APP), and the mixed coating was deposited on the surface of PET fabrics by spraying method to construct a superhydrophobic flame-retardant coating. The coated fabrics shows good superhydrophobicity (water contact angle is 155.61 ± 1.42°, sliding angle is 3.2 ± 0.4°) and self-cleaning performance. In particular, the prepared coated fabrics also has excellent mechanical durability, and it still does not lose its superhydrophobicity after 10 abrasive paper rubbing cycles, 60 min washing and even 300 bending and twisting cycles. In addition, compared with the original fabrics, the coating shows excellent flame retardant performance, which can realize self-extinguishing within 10 s in vertical combustion experiment.

Design of a new clean and comfortable temperature-sensitive polyethylene-based copolymer textile

With the rapid development of science and technology, compared with traditional textiles, which provide basic functions such as shelter from the body and cold, intelligent textiles can create a more comfortable and safe environment for people, improve work efficiency and meet people’s demand for diversified functions. At present, polypropylene material has the characteristics of temperature sensitivity, washing resistance, friction resistance, good whiteness and softness, and is widely used in textile, clothing and other industries. In this paper, The temperature sensitivity of cross-linked cotton fabric was characterized by measuring and analyzing the equilibrium swelling ratio, wetting time and surface contact angle. The temperature at which polymer properties suddenly change is 35°C, and the initial wetting time of cross-linked cotton fabric is longer than that of original cotton fabric. When the temperature exceeds 150°C, it loses its temperature sensitivity, resulting in the cross-linked cotton fabric being insensitive to temperature. The most suitable polymer concentration is 1%–8%. According to the DSC curve of P(MEO2MA-co-EGMA360) in the range of 60°C–20°C, the glass transition temperature (Tg) was determined. There is an obvious endothermic peak on the DSC curve near −26°C, which indicates that the glass transition temperature of P(MEO2MA-co-EGMA360) is −26°C, and P (MEO2MA-EGMA360). It is in a viscous state at room temperature. The air permeability and moisture permeability of cross-linked cotton fabric can be adjusted by changing the temperature, and the wearing comfort of the fabric can be improved. The test results of fabric wearability show that after crosslinking reaction, the washing fastness and rubbing fastness of fabric are within acceptable range, while whiteness, softness and mechanical properties are not affected. Considering comprehensively, when the polymer concentration is 8%, the drying temperature is 130°C and the drying time is 2 min, the finished fabric has the best indexes. This is mainly due to the spontaneous “self-adjustment” of aggregation morphology between the hydrogen bonding between polymer and water molecules and the hydrophobic interaction between molecules themselves in order to maintain a delicate dynamic balance, thus reaching a new thermodynamic equilibrium state. When the temperature exceeds the transition temperature, the surface of P(MEO2MA-co-EGMA360) film changes from a dense film structure to a porous structure, so that the air and moisture permeability can be adjusted and the wearing comfort of the fabric can be improved.

Improving the Dyeing Properties of Peanut Skin Extracts to Flax Fabrics by Chitosan Pretreatment

ABSTRACT Using chitosan as pretreatment agent, the dyeing properties of peanut skin extracts (PSE) to flax fabrics were improved. Flax fabrics have excellent comfort property and are loved by many people. However, flax is different to dye, especially with natural dye. In this research, chitosan was used to pretreat flax fabrics and PSE was used to dye the pretreated flax fabric. The optimal conditions of the chitosan pretreatment and dyeing conditions of PSE were investigated according to the K/S value of the dyed flax fabrics. Comparing the original flax fabric, the chitosan pretreated flax fabric significantly improved the absorption to PSE, and the dyed fabrics had an increased K/S value from 0.9 to 3.9, and had good color fastnesses. The main chemical constitution in PSE such as catechin, chitosan, and cellulose of flax fabrics may form hydrogen bond and ionic bond. Chitosan pretreated and dyed flax fabrics had a stronger ability to UV resistance and scavenging free radicals. The fluorescence intensity of the dyed flax fabrics was improved while it was decreased after chitosan pretreatment. Chitosan pretreatment combined PSE dyeing can be used to develop functional flax textiles without using metallic mordants.

Development of digitized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis

The aim of this study is to develop digitalized evaluation methods for fabric shrinkage and damage using image analysis. To develop the shrinkage assessment method, 81 grid dots (nine horizontal lines and nine vertical lines) are introduced into the test fabric. This allows the shrinkage to be verified based on the change in distance between neighboring dots, which not only presents the shrinkage in the warp and weft directions, but also the area shrinkage and skewness. The developed evaluation method yields a value that differs from the actual measured value by less than 1 mm, which confirms its significance. To develop a damage evaluation method using the Original Danish MA test fabric, the change in area caused by loosening threads in five holes is evaluated. The area change in the developed method and the number of loosened threads in the conventional method has a high correlation. Comparing the number of dots in the Poka-Dot test fabric before and after washing enables one to distinguish incorrectly created dots during the manufacturing process and to accurately measure the number of missing dots such that the result is similar to the actual measurement. The accuracy and reproducibility of the developed measurement method are confirmed using various verification such as error rate, washing cycle, and washing time. Digitizing the evaluation method can contribute to the digital transformation of apparel quality evaluation by reducing labor and errors between evaluators.

Diagenesis and reservoir quality of Neoproterozoic dolomitized microbialites following multi-stage diagenetic fluid activity: a case study of the Sinian Dengying Formation, China

Neoproterozoic marine microbialites have been targets for exploration and hydrocarbon reservoir development. The original depositional fabric and diagenesis control the pore systems of microbialites, leading to the complicated origin of microbialite reservoirs. This study aimed to reveal the origin of microbialite reservoirs following multi-stage diagenetic fluid activity in the fourth Member of the Dengying Formation in the central Sichuan Basin in southwestern China. The fourth Member of the Sinian Dengying Formation developed dolomitized microbialites, mainly including stromatolites, laminates, and thrombolites. Based on the background of tectonic movement, petrology and geochemistry examinations were executed to analyze the origin of the microbialite reservoir. Based on the cathodoluminescence and the homogenization temperature of the brine inclusions, it is credible that there were four stages of diagenetic fluid activities in the burial diagenesis. In the first stage, the microbialite reservoir was charged by oil in the Silurian period, with evidence from residual asphalt around the pores. In the second stage, dolomite precipitated to incompletely fill the pore spaces. In the third stage, the silica-rich diagenetic fluid with high temperature resulted in the precipitation of authigenic quartz. In the last stage, the oil charged again during the Triassic period, followed by siliceous filling, with residual asphalt filling the pore spaces. There were two stages of subaerial emergence, which occurred in two episodes of the Sinian-Early Cambrian Tongwan movement. The evidence for the two tectonic events includes two phases of dolomites with meteoric water origin, two cycles of V, Sr, and Na element profiles, two instances of negative excursion δ18O isotope, and two cavity layers. By comparison, the karstification of reservoirs in the Tongwan III episode could generate a higher quality of reservoir than that in the Tongwan II episode. As a result, the quality of the microbialite reservoir from the fourth Member of the Dengying Formation was mainly improved by the subaerial exposure in the Tongwan III episode and then was partly destroyed by the siliceous filling. The identification of multi-staged diagenetic fluid charging can illustrate the evolution of the reservoir quality of Neoproterozoic microbialites.

A Generative Urban Space Design Method Based on Shape Grammar and Urban Induction Patterns

This paper focuses on how to solve the demand of how to quickly explore more urban space design and layout in terms of the conservation and reuse of historical blocks under computer-aided design technology. Referring to urban inductive patterns, the author establishes an urban space design grammar of historical districts based on shape grammar and pattern language. It forms a complete generative urban space design method involving morphological analysis, rule-making, and scheme generation. Furthermore, taking the typical Russian-style historical block along the Chinese Eastern Railway—the historical district in front of Anda Station as an application example—this paper completed the generative urban space design process of block redevelopment and environmental reconstruction, which, using computer-aided technology, was under the premise of protecting the original historic block fabric. The final two group results of the experimental plot and the other plots of the historical district show that this method can quickly and accurately generate lots of urban space design schemes that meet the designers’ pre-thinking, and these schemes can be modified by real-time calculation and interactive operation.

3D characterization of localized shear failure in loess subject to triaxial loading

The reduction of shear strength of loess slopes is generally driven by localized failure in loess that lowers the trigger thresholds of major landslide geohazards in these materials. Shear failure is initially manifested as discontinuous microscale fractures that progressively develop into macroscale rupture surfaces. In this study, the development of localized shear failure in Malan loess is investigated through an approach combining laboratory triaxial shear test and X-ray micro-computed tomography (μ-CT). The spatial distribution and morphological evolution of fractures associated with the shear failure plane are observed at different loading stages in a non-destructive manner. It is found that, with ongoing strain, the number and persistence of multiple undulating fracture surfaces gradually increase after peak strength condition are reached until a single, dominant shear failure plane is formed. Most fracture surfaces are oblique to the major principal stress direction forming a shear band of finite thickness. Within this band it is possible to observe zones where varying strain magnitude is accommodated by a network of fracture surfaces. The effect of strain accumulation and local shear failure on the sample's macroporosity was determined by performing calculations on the CT images of each loading stage. Whereas the bulk sample underwent a reduction in macroporosity as a result of the triaxial compression, movement along undulating fracture surfaces results in the opening (and closing) of apertures with ongoing shear strain within a shear band of finite thickness. The overall result is an increase in macroporosity in this shear band with an estimated thickness of approximately 5 mm. Image analysis also allows characterization of changes in the 3D macropore network of the original loess fabric. Macropore network can be disconnected, dislocated and even destroyed when affected by shear failure development. These morphological variations of macropores serve as benchmarks that indicate the early initiation and expanding range of local shear failure and also allow the evaluation of the effect of local shear failure on seepage characteristics. The results of this study could provide important insights into multi-scale modelling of mechanical behaviour of loess.

Effect of Recycling PET Fabric and Bottle Grade on r-PET Fiber Structure.

PET knitted fabric was melted and cooled by hot pressing at 250 °C to obtain a compacted sheet. Only white PET fabric (WF_PET) was used to study the recycling process by compression and grinding to powder and then melt spinning at different take-up speeds compared to PET bottle grade (BO_PET). PET knitted fabric had good fiber formability and was better suited for melt spinning of recycled PET (r-PET) fibers than the bottle grade. Thermal and mechanical properties of r-PET fibers improved in terms of crystallinity and tensile strength with increasing take-up speed (500 to 1500 m/min). Fading and color changes from the original fabric were relatively small compared with PET bottle grade. Results indicated that fiber structure and properties can be used as a guideline for improving and developing r-PET fibers from textile waste.

Jerusalem urban landscape fragmentation: from a city of peace into a city of pieces

During the past century, the city of Jerusalem expanded from 1 km2 (the walled city) to reach more than 126 km2 in 2005 and 164 km2 recently. The city presents an open book in urban planning practice, starting with the Ottoman time through the British Mandate (i.e. British rule in Palestine from 1917 to 1948, starting after the defeat of Ottoman rule in the area) and ending with the Israeli occupation. Planners during different regimes added several layers to the original fabric in attempts to transform the city into a ‘modern’ mosaic/collage. In this study, historical plans were analysed and sequential plans were gathered and stratified in order to show how the urban context was deformed and fragmented through unilateral planning.

Shape-stabilized composite phase change material for thermal insulation of cotton fabrics with sandwich structure

Disodium phosphate dodecahydrate was hybrid with n-octadecane as the phase change material (PCM) by reversed-phase emulsification. The cellulose sponge obtained based on cellulose nanocrystals was used as the support material to fabricate a shape-stable composite phase change material (CPCM) through impregnation. It was laminated with cotton fabric to obtain a sandwich structure thermal insulation fabric. An infrared spectrometer, scanning electron microscope, differential thermal scanning calorimeter, and other equipment were used to characterize the morphology, chemical groups, and latent heat properties of CPCMs and thermal insulation fabrics. The results displayed that the cellulose sponge had a porosity of 99.03%, a density of 0.012 g/cm3, and could withstand 1900 times its weight. When the mass proportion of PCM in the composite system was 67.5%, its latent heat energy was 84.44 J/g, which also revealed optimal shape stability. Compared to the original fabric, the thermal insulation efficiency of the sandwich structured fabric was increased by 17.7%∼18.2%, and the photothermal conversion rate reached 25.88%, with good application performance.

Enhancement UV-resistance and hydrophobic of cotton fabrics through membrane formation by cationic colored nanospheres

In order to satisfy the demand for more textile taking properties, UV resistance and hydrophobic functionalization have become the focus of research in the field of textile modification. We herein report a simple method to prepare hydrophobic and UV-resistant multifunctional colored cotton fabrics by the self-curing technique of cationic polyethyleneimine dye polymer (CPNP(R218)) nanospheres. First, cationic CPNP(R218) nanospheres with homogeneous particle size and good dispersion stability were synthesized, which can be directly introduced to the eco-friendly cotton fiber dyeing. Polymer membranes on the surface of cotton were formulated through self-curing of the CPNP(R218) nanospheres during the dyeing process, and its surface morphology and elements were characterized. The cotton fabric dyed CPNP(R218) nanospheres have good color properties along with good hydrophobicity, showing a static water contact angle (WCA) of 138.4°. In addition, the ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) value of the dyed cotton was 3.5 times higher than the original cotton fabric, due to the polymer film blocking the penetration of UV radiation. Therefore, the method of self-curing film formation by dye polymer nanospheres has great significance for the construction of multifunctional colored cotton fabrics.

Radiation syntheses of modified poly (lactic acid) fabrics with hydrophilic and antibacterial properties

In this research, the antimicrobial agent (sliver nanoparticles) (AgNPs) and bio-based poly(vinylpyrrolidone) (PVP) were introduced on the poly (lactic acid) (PLA) fabrics by γ-ray induced simultaneous grafting and reduction. The morphology and the AgNPs distribution of the modified PLA fabrics were investigated by scanning electron microscopy (SEM). The interaction of PLA fabrics, AgNPs and PVP was tested by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS). It was indicated that AgNPs were coordinated with oxygen and nitrogen atoms of pyrrole rings, which was facilitated to be anchored firmly on PLA fabrics. The mechanical, hydrophilic and antibacterial properties of the modified PLA fabrics were also investigated. The modified PLA fabric (PLA-g-PVP-Ag-2) shown the similar mechanical strength to that of pure PLA. Besides, with the lower loadings of AgNPs, PLA-g-PVP-Ag-2 exhibited greatly enhanced hydrophilicity and antibacterial performance. The water wetting time was 19.3 s (the original PLA fabric was >90 s) and the antibacterial rate against S. aureus was >99 %.

Soluble and colorless polyimide coated cotton fabric with attractive multifunction: Warmth retention, breathable, antifouling, UV and acid resistance

The coating is an economical and convenient approach for textiles to realize multi-functionalization and broaden their applications in various fields. Polyimide (PI) is an excellent functional coating material with great thermal insulation, ultraviolet resistance, and chemical resistance; however, its coating process requires high cyclization temperature, and its inherent dark color makes it unsuitable for the preparation of functional textiles. In this study, soluble and colorless PI was successfully developed to coat onto cotton fabric via a one-step solution process, thereby effectively avoiding disrupting the substrate fabric's mechanical and color properties in the conventional two-step process. Attractively, this composite coated fabric combined various excellent properties of PI, such as high thermal resistance, water and stain resistance, UV resistance, acid resistance, etc. Especially, the warmth property of PI coated cotton fabric could improve by 3–5 folds as compared to the original cotton fabric and the PI coated cotton fabric simultaneously retained excellent air permeability. This coating method fully integrated the advantages of PI into the fabric, showing great promise for preparing multifunctional fabric in a scalable, economical, and facile way.

Construction of durable and original color constancy photochromic cotton fabrics by a facile esterification strategy

Cotton-based photochromic textiles have emerged as a representative smart textile, yet constrained by the complicated process, deep original color and limited durability in practical applications. Here, spiropyran (SP) with a simple carboxy linking group was directly covalently immobilized onto cotton fabric through a facile and effective esterification strategy. Benefit from the simple structure, this modification process does not affect the basic properties and color of the fabric. In addition, the SP-cotton fabrics exhibited excellent reversible photochromic properties from colorless to violet and allowed to print exquisite patterns with long-distance control by switching light resource and photomasks. Moreover, the stable ester covalent bond endowed these SP-cotton fabrics with appropriate washing fastness and photo fatigue resistance. This study not only added value to cotton, but also paved a rational and general approach for the construction of durable and original color constancy photochromic textiles, providing a potential candidate for brand protection, anti-counterfeiting, and fashion textiles. • A novel photochromic fabric was prepared by directly covalently immobilizing spiropyran (SP) contained carboxy linking group. • A simple and extensible immobilized strategy was proposed for constructing original color constancy photochromic textiles. • SP cotton with photochromic performance from colorless to violet and allowed to print patterns with long-distance control.

Effect of polydopamine deposition on wool fibers on the construction of melanin

AbstractThe use of dopamine to synthesize melanin as a natural dye on fabrics has the disadvantages of complicated processing, long processing time, and high cost. This study simplifies the processing conditions of the oxidative polymerization of dopamine and develops wool fabric melanin coatings with different finishing effects by adjusting the reaction time. The results of computer color matching, ultraviolet (UV) protection properties, and color fastness indicated that the treated wool fibers were effectively dyed, and they achieved UV resistance properties comparable to those realized in other studies in a relatively short time. The degree of lightness (L) and UV protection factor of the treated fabric reached up to 13.3 and 80+, respectively. Samples W/PDA 60 and W/PDA 120 absorbed more than 95% of the UV light. The color fastness was greater than Grade 4. The Fourier infrared spectrum and X‐ray diffraction studies revealed that the chemical and crystalline structures of the wool fiber did not change significantly after the treatment. The breaking strength of samples W/PDA 60 and W/PDA 120 was about 50% higher than that of the original wool fabric. This efficient and simple method provides a feasible and promising solution for the color deepening and UV finishing of high value‐added wool products. It can be a potential choice for upgrading the printing and dyeing industries from the perspective of ecological protection.

Ühe sitsijaki lugu: koopia õmblemine umbsest Kihnu jakist / The story of a chintz jacket: making a copy of a Kihnu pullover (umbne) jacket

The article is an extension of the author’s MA thesis, “Cotton jackets in the tradition of wearing folk costumes in the mainland and islands of West Estonia at the end of the 19th century and the in the first half of the 20th century” (2022). The process of making a replica of a special umbne chintz jacket found in Kihnu was initiated during the author’s field work on the island. The owner of the jacket donated it to Kihnu Museum. As the original item was in a wretched condition, having been stuck between the logs of a wall as insulation material, the Kihnu Museum ordered a copy of it from the author of the present article. This process was supported by carrying out an inventory of the rest of the Kihnu chintz jackets, 14 items, from the same time period. The article addresses the problems that occurred over the course of making the patterns, choosing the material, and sewing the jacket. Alternatives are discussed and choices are explained.&#x0D; Typical Kihnu chintz jackets are simple in cut. Side and shoulder seams are shifted towards the back. Sleeve cuts consist of two details: sleeves are slightly bow-shaped and shortened in order to allow hassle-free performance of physical work. The lower-back edge of the jacket is elongated and arched, creating a tail (händ) that covers the back when the wearer bends over. As a rule, Kihnu chintz jackets have a buttoned front placket. The jacket under discussion is different as it has no buttoned opening in the front and the placket is located on a shoulder. No other similar jackets have been preserved, but there are oral recounts of making such items during the period of 1935–1945.&#x0D; Patterns were taken from the original jacket, but as its sleeves were heavily damaged, their patterns had to be re-created and modified according to the measures of the original jacket. In order to test out the feasibility of the pattern, two test jackets were sewn.&#x0D; As paisley-patterned fabric similar to the original was not available commercially, the author created a digital fabric pattern herself and ordered it to be printed on a suitable material. The original fabric was photographed and its pattern was digitally re-created. Cleaning and combining the elements of the pattern into a seamless surface was time-consuming work, but the final result was worth it.&#x0D; The experience in sewing the test jackets provided the author with the necessary confidence to cut up the valuable specially-produced fabric. The length of the machine stitches and the original black colour of the thread closely follow the original, as does the sequence of joining and finishing the details. A major difference from the original lies in the finishing of the hems and decorative collar folds, as the wide, white selvedge of the printed fabric could not be used in the same way Kihnu women would have used their fabrics when finishing the edges of the garment. The author also made the textile covered buttons herself.&#x0D; The replica of the jacket turned out well and it can be seen in the Kihnu Museum now.&#x0D; Keywords: chintz jacket, Kihnu, traditional costume, replica, reconstruction

“What Really Happened?”: The Life and Death of Olivia Coombs

“What Really Happened?”: The Life and Death of Olivia Coombs