Opposite Wind Directions Research Articles

On effect of wave breaking on short wind waves

The paper presents an attempt to estimate short wave generation by wave breaking. A breaking wave crest disturbs the surface and generates sub‐surface turbulence. The locally disturbed area further disperses and feeds short wave energy to the surroundings. The total short wave energy results from summing up the effect of wave breaking events randomly distributed over the sea surface. The rate of short wave generation is determined by the frequency of wavebreaking events per unit area. The source of short wave energy is isotropic, thus it generates waves at cross and opposite wind directions. The model qualitatively reproduces observed directional property of short wind wave spectra and mean square slope.

Some Remarkable Wind-Faceted Pebbles from near the Mouth of the Umhlangakulu River, Southern Natal, South Africa

original pebble shape, studies were made of angular material shed from a limestone outcrop upon the beach near the Ure River, Marlborough, New Zealand (King, 1936a). Here only two opposite wind directions along the beach could be effective for sandblasting. Material was studied at all stages from freshly shed fragments to superbly faceted dreikanter and pyramidalgeschiebe. The conclusion was reached that, with angular material, original shape exercised considerable control over the final form as-