Novice Climbers Research Articles

Utility of video analysis and expert modelling for technique development in novice sport climbers: A randomized controlled study

Sport climbing is a multifaceted sport that also requires appropriate techniques to optimize movements. As augmented feedback is known to facilitate motor learning, we investigated the utility of adding video analysis and expert modelling to standardized verbal feedback for the acquisition of three climbing-specific techniques (drop knee, heel hook and high step). Twenty-six novice climbers (12 women) completed two testing sessions before and after a training intervention that consisted of three coached climbing sessions targeting the three techniques. Participants were randomly assigned to a control group, which solely received standardized verbal feedback or an experimental group that additionally received standardized video analysis and expert modelling using the Dartfish tablet application. Video recordings were subsequently evaluated by two climbing experts on a 7-point scale. The expert scores were higher in the experimental than in the control group for the high step (causal total effect (CTE) 0.38, 95% confidence interval (CI) [0.06, 0.68]). Improvements for the drop knee (CTE = 0.12, 95% CI [−0.24, 0.48]) and heel hook (CTE = −0.05, 95% CI [−0.42, 0.31]) were similar in both groups. For the drop knee, we, however, observed a positive causal direct effect (CDE = 0.38, 95% CI [0.07, 0.68]), which was comparable to that observed for the high step but also a negative causal mediator effect via the perceived difficulty (CME = −0.26, 95% CI [−0.51, −0.04]). Compared to verbal feedback solely, the addition of video analysis and expert modelling might facilitate the acquisition of certain climbing techniques, such as high step, in novice climbers.

PERANCANGAN ALAT DAN SISTEM PEMANTAUAN PENDAKI GUNUNG BERBASIS INTERNET OF THINGS (IOT)

Climbing generally refers to a long journey and usually takes a small path leading to a higher place such as the top of a mountain. When climbing, sometimes novice climbers do not know the basics of climbing, resulting in unwanted events such as the wrong way, so there needs to be a system for monitoring the position of climbers from the guard post. This system, helps managers to monitor the whereabouts of climbers from the start to the location that climbers want to visit where the position data is processed by the Lora Module and displayed on the OLED and the application website as a monitoring system. This tool is in the form of a Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) bracelet and (RFID) Reader to detect climbers, every climber who registers to climb will be given a Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) bracelet. on the tools that have been provided, so that the manager knows the climbers are already at the post through the monitoring website. The results of this study are in the form of a tool product in the form of a bracelet which is scanned in an RFID Reader then the data will be sent via a wireless network to a web server/web application on the coast guard post, the test results obtained that the tool can be read properly and the process of sending data to the web application takes about 2 seconds.

PERANCANGAN APLIKASI JALUR PENDAKIAN DAN MONITORING PENDAKI GUNUNG UNGARAN BERBASIS GLOBAL POSITIONING SYSTEM (GPS)

Ungaran Mountain has a height of 2050 meters above sea level, this mountain is suitable for beginner climbers who want to know more about climbing hobbies, Ungaran climbers themselves only take about 3-5 hours, depending on the speed of walking, the climbing route is also quite light and very suitable for heating before starting to climb higher mountains. Thus many novice climbers who want to try to climb and conquer Mount Ungaran, armed with minimal experience of mountain climbing, the risks they face are even greater, ranging from getting lost, being hypothermic to death while climbing. To make it easier for Ungaran mountain climbers who are dominated by novice climbers in this study, the Ungaran Mountaineering Track and Monitoring Application Based on the Global Positioning System (GPS) on the Android System "which was built to make it easier for Ungaran mountain climbers to access information provided by Ungaran mountain climbers. needed to climb Mount Ungaran, and it is also useful for the team at base camp to monitor climbers who climb..

Construction of Validity and Reliability of an Observational Instrument to Assess the Technical Execution in Lead Climbing

Background: The speed world record (WR) performance is an achievement achieved by athletes in the competitive rock-climbing category, where the athlete must complete the climbing route on a standard artificial climbing wall with a height of 15m in the shortest possible time. Purpose: This study aimed to construct and validate an observational instrument to assess technical execution in lead climbing. The instrument developed can be used to assess progress to achieve the important aspects of climbing movement methods. Design / methodology / approach: Importantly, the construction of its validity and reliability was conducted in four stages. The first stage was a literature review on the construction of the observational instrument. In the second stage, the instrument's construction was established. The content validity coefficient was determined in the third stage using Aiken's V and 7 experts with various qualifications, including the level of understanding, appropriateness of the words, and the relevance of the statement with a grading scale of 0-10. The instrument's internal validity was calculated using 20 climbers and was quantitatively tested using the product-moment correlation. In the fourth stage, instrument reliability was determined using Cronbach's Alpha reliability test. Results showed that the observational instrument has content validity with optimal internal value as well as satisfactory reliability. Conclusion: Observational instruments were valid and reliable; therefore, they can be used to assess technical execution for novice climbers in lead climbing. It allows instructors, coaches, and teachers to assess the technical execution of novice climbers specifically in lead climbing.

Physiological and psychological differences between novices and advanced boulderers

Introduction: Rock climbing, especially bouldering, has increasingly become a mainstream sport. However, there has been little research comparing physiological and psychological traits of advanced and novice climbers. Methods: Thirty-two climbers (14 advanced (ADV), 18 novice (NOV) took part in this study. Anthropometric, body composition, flexibility, force, and psychological measurements were performed. MANOVA and post-hoc t-tests were used to compare between groups. Results: ADV climbed harder than NOV (V scale – 7.5 ± 1.6 vs 4.4 ± 1.2, p < 0.05). ADV were found to have significantly lower body fat percentage (12.3 ± 6.7 vs 17.5 ± 6.8%, p < 0.05), and higher grip strength relative to body weight (normal grip relative to body weight – 76.2 ± 14.1 vs. 63.1 ± 16.8% right hand, 74.7 ± 13.9 vs 58.9 ± 12.2% left hand, p < 0.05, Pinch grip relative to body weight – 0.4 ± .09 vs 0.3 ± .05%, p < 0.05), and maximum rate of force development as a percentage of body weight during a pull-up (.86 ± .38 vs .37 ± .30%, p < 0.01). Discussion: Advanced climbers have a significantly better power to weight ratio, giving them a better ability to generate explosive movements. It may be beneficial for novice climbers to train to increase their power to weight ratio, whether by increasing upper body power, decreasing fat mass, or increasing the grip to weight ratio.

Time course changes in hand grip strength performance and hand position sense in climbing

The aim of the present study was to determine the time course changes in hand grip strength performance and hand position sense in novice climbers after one bout of two minutes continuing climbing on an artificial vertical wall. In addition, the rate of perceived fatigue of the participant felt right after the trial was recorded. Sixty five novice climbers aged 20 to 22 years (age 20.50± 0.65 years), were randomly assigned into two training groups with different tests protocols, the Grip strength test group (n=23), versus Joint position sense test group (n=14), and two control groups (n=14 each). The training protocol included one bout of two minutes continuing climbing on an artificial wall for both training groups whereas the control groups did not receive any kind of training during the study. Subjects were pre and post-tested for the selected variables. Statistical analysis showed that the grip strength was significantly decreased only for the training group F(6,216) = 30.460, p < .0005, partial η2 = .489. Similarly, the rate of perceived exertion changed significant F(2,563, 41,001) = 24.397, p < .0005, partial η2 = 0.604, with the training group to be more tired than the control after two minutes continuing climbing. Also, the wrist position sense of training group significantly deteriorated at post-test with F(3,78)=2,977, p<.05, partial η2 = .103. In conclusion, the performance of novice climbers is affected by hand grip strength performance and joint position sense of the hand. In addition it was required almost ten minutes of rest for partial recovery. These variables can be addressed through training design giving attention to those physical abilities.

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A Comparison of Upper Body Strength between Rock Climbing and Resistance Trained Men

Studies have shown that advanced rock climbers have greater upper body strength than that of novice climbers or non-climbers. The purpose of this study was to compare upper body strength between rock climbing and resistance trained men. Fifteen resistance trained men (age 25.28 ± 2.26 yrs; height 177.45 ± 4.08 cm; mass 85.17 ± 10.23 kg; body fat 10.13 ± 5.40%) and 15 rock climbing men (age 23.25 ± 2.23 yrs; height 175.57 ± 8.03 cm; mass 66.66 ± 9.40 kg; body fat 6.86 ± 3.82%) volunteered to participate. Rock climbing (RC) men had been climbing for at least two years, 2–3 times a week, able to climb at least a boulder rating of V4–5 and had no current injuries. Resistance trained (RT) men had been total body strength training for at least two years, 2–3 times a week with no current injuries. Each participant performed pull-ups to failure, grip strength, and pinch strength. RT were significantly older and heavier than RC. RC performed significantly more pull-ups (19.31 ± 4.31) than RT (15.64 ± 4.82). RC had greater relative pinch strength (R 0.27 ± 0.10 kg/kg; L 0.24 ± 0.07 kg/kg) than RT (R 0.19 ± 0.04 kg/kg; L 0.16 ± 0.05 kg/kg) and greater relative grip strength (R 0.70 ± 0.10 kg/kg; L 0.65 ± 0.12 kg/kg) than RT (R 0.57 ± 0.14 kg/kg; L 0.56 ± 0.15 kg/kg). Overall, RC men demonstrated greater performance in tests involving relative strength when compared to RT men. Rock climbing can promote increased upper body strength even in the absence of traditional resistance training.

Analysis of Climbing Postures and Movements in Sport Climbing for Realistic 3D Climbing Animations

Recently, sport climbing has become popular throughout the world. Sport climbing is an extreme sport where people climb an artificial wall with various artificial holds using their hands and feet. Technique training related to using hands and feet is necessary for novice climbers, hence we need effective training contents. The purpose of this research is to analyze postures and movements in sport climbing using Microsoft Kinect for realistic 3D climbing animations. A professional male climber participated in this research in order to obtain good movements for the animations. We divided a climbing cycle into four phase and analyzed each phase. The posture and movement data in sport climbing which are analyzed through this research will be used to make realistic 3D character animation.

The effect of climbing ability and slope inclination on vertical foot loading using a novel force sensor instrumentation system.

The aim of the study was to assess the effects of climbing ability and slope inclination on vertical loading both in terms the forces involved and physiological responses. Five novice and six intermediate female climbers completed a climbing route at three slope inclinations (85°, 90°, and 98°). The vertical loading during the climb was assessed by force-time integral using a Novel Pedar-X insole and physiological responses via oxygen uptake and heart rate. The novice climbers had a significantly lower (p < 0.05) vertical loading on foot holds and higher oxygen uptake and heart rate compared to intermediate climbers. A significant negative correlation was identified between the force-time integral and oxygen uptake (R = −0.72), and with heart rate (R = −0.64), respectively. The time-force integral decreased across the ascents with increasing slope inclination (p < 0.001). The results indicate that more advanced ability climbers make greater use of foot holds, with associated lowering in physiological response (oxygen uptake and heart rate) across all slope inclinations.

Water Turnover and Core Temperature on Mount Rainier

Hydration is an important logistical consideration for persons performing in austere environments because water demands must be balanced with the burden of carrying water. Seven novice climbers participated in a study to determine the hydration kinetics and core temperatures associated with a successful summit of Mount Rainier. Ingestible radio-equipped thermometer capsules were swallowed to monitor core temperature, and an oral dose of deuterium (0.12 ± 0.02 g·kg⁻¹ body weight) was administered to determine hydration kinetics. Mean core temperature throughout the 5.5-hour climb to Camp Muir (3000 m) was 37.6 ± 0.3°C. Water turnover was 95.0 ± 17.5 mL·kg⁻¹·24 h⁻¹ over the duration of the 43-hour study. There was a trend for reduced body mass from before (75.9 ± 13.0 kg) to after (74.8 ± 12.5 kg) the climb (P = .06), and urine specific gravity increased from before (1.013 ± 0.002) to after (1.022 ± 0.006) the climb (P = .004). Hydration demands of climbing Mount Rainier are highly elevated despite modest fluctuations in core temperature. Participants experienced hypohydration but were able to maintain sufficient hydration to successfully summit Mount Rainier and return home safely.

Inspiring College Students to Reach New Heights: Assessing Physical and Social Environments at a University Climbing Wall and Effects on Participant Satisfaction

Since the Appalachian State University (ASU) Outdoor Program's (OP) climbing wall opened in 2006, climbing wall managers have logged over 100,000 participations. As the program's most popular offering, the climbing wall has been identified as a gateway activity to other OP offerings. However, climbers routinely report dissatisfaction with the physical and social environments at the ASU climbing facility (A. Miller, personal communication, February 18, 2010). These complaints have included women who felt unwanted and uncomfortable at the climbing wall due to male climbers' attitudes, novice climbers who felt self-conscious around advanced climbers, and climbers who could not find enough easy routes and problems to keep them interested. The researchers' goal was to answer the following questions: How do the physical and social environments impact user satisfaction and feelings of acceptance? Is there a correlation between gender and dissatisfaction with the climbing wall environment? What can be done to increase participant satisfaction at the climbing wall?

The Effect of Indoor Rock Climbing on Strength, Endurance, and Flexibility Characteristics in Novice Climbers

The Effect of Indoor Rock Climbing on Strength, Endurance, and Flexibility Characteristics in Novice Climbers

Effects of Indoor Rock Climbing on Muscular Strength, Endurance, and Flexibility Characteristics of Novice Climbers

Effects of Indoor Rock Climbing on Muscular Strength, Endurance, and Flexibility Characteristics of Novice Climbers

Onsite Coping in Novice Climbers as a Function of Hardiness and Self-efficacy

The present study investigated the coping strategies used by novice climbers as a function of hardiness and self-efficacy Thirty physical education university students participated in a two-week climbing training program. Hardiness was assessed before the initiation of the training program, self-efficacy prior to the post-training climbing assessment, and coping strategies after the post-training climbing assessment. Two-way MANOVA revealed significant effects of hardiness on ‘cognitive engagement’ and ‘effort increase’, and a significant interaction between hardiness and self-efficacy on ‘behavioural disengagement’. The results of the study suggest that the coping approach should be further examined as a function of both individual and situational characteristics.

Anxiety–performance relationships in climbing: a process-oriented approach

Abstract Objectives : Two experiments were conducted to investigate manifestations of anxiety at the subjective, physiological, and behavioural level of analysis. Design : In Experiment 1 we investigated the manifestations of state anxiety at the first two levels by comparing low- and high-anxiety conditions during climbing. In Experiment 2 we explored behavioural differences under these conditions. Methods : We manipulated anxiety by using a climbing wall with routes defined at different heights (low and high). Participants were 13 and 17 novice climbers in Experiments 1 and 2, respectively (ages 19–30 years). We measured self-reported state anxiety, heart rate (Experiments 1 and 2), blood lactate concentration and muscle fatigue (Experiment 1), and climbing time and fluency of movements (Experiment 2). Results : At the level of subjective experience we found that when novices climbed a route high on a climbing wall they reported significantly more anxiety than when they traversed an identical route low on the climbing wall. At the physiological level, they exhibited significantly higher heart rates, more muscle fatigue, and higher blood lactate concentrations. The results of Experiment 2 showed that state anxiety also affected participants’ movement behaviour, which was evidenced by an increased geometric index of entropy and by longer climbing times. Conclusions : Results indicated that anxiety indeed manifested itself at three levels. A possible explanation for the effects of anxiety that is also found in the literature is that a temporary regress may occur to a movement execution that is associated with earlier stages of motor learning.