OMEWHAT unexpectedly, I found myself in Salzburg at the end of June. I had heard of the charms of this town, of the three most beautiful in the world, knew of the festival which in late years has been an annual event, and had known musicians who had studied in the summer courses at the Mozarteum Academy. As a musician, I naturally intended to visit the spots associated with the name of Mozartto pay my respects, so to speak, and to then find a suitable place where I could get some much-needed rest. True, I had a vague notion of returning for the festival, or at least a part of it, and possibly visiting Bayreuth or Munich for a similar purpose. In other words, I had somewhat precipitately gone to Europe with no well defined plan, and for this I am eternally grateful, since the net result was that I stayed in Salzburg most of the time for the entire summer. You, no doubt, gather that I like 'Salzburg. The fact is, I do, and further, I was totally unprepared for what I found there. I doubt if anyone can give an adequate idea of the place, but I may be able to convey some of the reasons why it held me so effectively. To begin, although the place is overrun with visitors during the festival and is the point of departure for numerous trips and excursions among the mountains and lakes of the Salzkammergut and the Tyrol, it still remains unspoiled, its natural self. It has that peculiar restful quality which encourages one to take time. However, one does not become inactive in its atmosphere, rather leisurely active, and is soon surprised to find it possible to do so many things without hurry-a godsend to an American. It is the festival town par excellence. Not all towns are worthy of festivals. Small ones are likely to be too insignificant in color and atmosphere, and to lack the necessary facilities for accommodating visitors comfortably. Large cities are likely to have too many distractions even though they have the necessary accommodations. Salzburg seems to have the best of the advantages of both the large and small place: excellent hotels, pensions, restaurants, and coffee houses, in addition to an atmosphere that conduces to contentment and relaxation for the complete enjoyment of the remarkably fine performances that go to make up the festival. Here, also, is found among the townspeople, what almost amounts to a genius for the true festive spirit which is so important. 0