Rio de Janeiro, many Brazilians and foreigners agree, is a monumental city. The capital of until 1960, Rio has both an illustrious history and natural splendor. Steep granite hills, some of them populated by the city's poor, share space with modern high-rise buildings. The crescent-shaped beaches of the wealthy South Zone continue to draw tourists from as far away as Europe and the United States, despite international reports of violent street crime. When I arrived there in the last weeks of 1990, I felt a tingling sense of achievement. Even poor migrants, whose reasons for leaving the impoverished countryside are anything but abstract, are drawn to Rio partly by its glamour. The allure of Rio de Janeiro may be an effect produced less by its startling topography and breathtaking vistas than by what tourist brochures are apt to call its spirit. The magic of Rio is constructed, really, from a collectively imagined and ideologically managed enchantment. Accepted within everyday discourses throughout as something of a metonymic enactment of national culture and character, Rio is portrayed as exuberantly spontaneous, racially mixed, egalitarian in its ethos (if not in its objective structures), free spirited and casual, and, during certain days of the year especially, just a little bit shameless. As is the case with all such national showcases, the magic of Rio is simultaneously produced within and directed toward both local and transnational contexts. Rio's claim to represent the most appealing and uniquely Brazilian aspects of national culture is based largely on the city's performance of the pre-Lenten festival of carnaval. Brazilian anthropologist Roberto DaMatta captured the symbolic resonance and national significance of the festival when he wrote, was not that invented Caraval; on the contrary, it was Carnaval that invented Brazil (1984:245). The carioca, or Rio, carnaval is based on samba, a musical genre and dance style of remarkable tenacity and hegemonic reach. This article focuses on the historical development of, and contemporary discourses about, Rio's samba-driven caraval and its relationship to national representation and politics. With racial politics I do not refer to more explicit
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