Clothing Manufacturing Research Articles

The perspective of citizens and the media concerning the responsibility of corporations

PurposeIn the public debate, companies are confronted with conflicting expectations regarding their responsibility. An inconsistent understanding of the responsibility of corporations may affect the acceptance of corporate actions. The purpose of this study is to take this observation as a starting point and to analyze corporate responsibility assessments of different actors.Design/methodology/approachIn the course of two online surveys conducted by a polling institute at the end of January 2017, 1,003 German citizens were asked about their expectations concerning the responsibility of corporations. One survey was mainly focused on clothing manufacturers, the other one on banks. Moreover, a content analysis of nationwide German quality newspapers aims at showing the media perspective. By using an extensive combination of keywords, 1069 articles were analyzed for the period from 1 January to 31 December 2016. The coding revealed 345 relevant articles containing 717 responsibility-related judgments.FindingsOverall, the systematic comparison of both perspectives show differences between societal perspectives and therefore presents an explanation for conflicting expectations concerning the responsibility of corporations.Research limitations/implicationsThe measurement of judgments on responsibility is a complex endeavor. Findings may be limited due to an extensive coding process and a restricted comparability of the two surveys and the content analysis. Moreover, findings are focused on clothing manufacturers and banks only.Originality/valueA focus on responsibility assessments delivers a deeper understanding of different perspectives concerning the responsibility of corporations in the public debate.

Effects of two-step heat treatment on the structure of cotton-derived activated carbon fibres

Activated carbon fibre (ACF), a novel material, has attracted considerable research attention. The pore structures found on the surfaces of ACFs are strongly related to their functionality. Herein, ACF was prepared via a two-step thermal treatment of cotton. The diameters and width distributions of thus-prepared ACFs were characterised using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). SEM analysis also revealed that the pore structures on the surfaces of the cotton-derived ACFs were activated by carbon dioxide. Successful adsorption functionality of these ACFs was characterised using a methylene blue (MB) solution. The effects of the two-step thermal treatment and potential applications of this methodology are also discussed. The proposed method can be used on other fibre products or industrial waste materials generated during the manufacture of cloth and fibres, and the generated ACFs can be used for energy-storage applications.

Medieval Clothing and Textiles ed. by Monica L. Wright, Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker

Reviewed by: Medieval Clothing and Textiles ed. by Monica L. Wright, Robin Netherton and Gale R. Owen-Crocker Julie Hotchin Wright, Monica L., Robin Netherton, and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, eds, Medieval Clothing and Textiles, Volume 15, Woodbridge, The Boydell Press, 2019; hardback; pp. xiii, 195; 36 b/w illustrations, 3 colour plates; R.R.P. US$70.00, £40.00; ISBN 9781783274123. For fifteen years Medieval Clothing and Textiles has provided a forum for interdisciplinary research into ‘the fabric of the medieval world’ (p. xi). The seven articles in this issue exhibit the excellent scholarship for which the series is known. The contributors are concerned with various aspects of the manufacture, materiality, use, and cultural meanings of cloth and clothing. They examine evidence from the early to the late Middle Ages, extending from Scandinavia to southern Europe. This volume marks a transition for the series, with Monica Wright assuming the role as lead editor of this issue while founding editors Robin Netherton and Gale Owen-Crocker step back from steering this influential series. Gale Owen-Crocker, who has been a driving force in textile studies for nearly five decades, opens the volume with a succinct and characteristically perceptive survey of the state of the field. Presenting an overview of textile studies [End Page 256] for researchers new to the field, she considers methodological and interpretive challenges in the analysis of material textile artefacts, textual evidence, and discusses recent theoretically informed approaches such as object biographies. The footnotes are replete with references to databases, repositories, sources, and other research guides, all of which are introduced with informed commentary to orient readers to the key resources for medieval textile studies. Researchers new to the field will find much of value here, and the article is ideally suited to teaching. Two articles engage with questions about the materiality of textiles and how it influences the cultural meanings of cloth and clothing. Working from the critical insight that material resonances matter for metaphor, Maren Clegg Hyer examines the interplay between interlace designs in Anglo-Saxon textiles and literature as expressed in the metaphor of ‘wordweaving’. Her analysis of Latin and vernacular poetry demonstrates how authors drew on the familiar, recognizable patterns of textile and manuscript interlace design to create ‘experientially resonant’ poetic metaphors particular to their historical place and context. In the other article to examine textile artefacts, Tina Anderlini undertakes a comprehensive analysis of medallion silks. Drawing on surviving fragments, textual, visual, and material evidence, she demonstrates the importance of these luxury fabrics for display in religious settings. She also shows how these textiles influenced other aspects of material culture, examining wall painting, sculpture, and mosaics to demonstrate how the roundel design of these silks served as a ‘source of inspiration for other arts and a strong sign of sanctity, honour, power, and wealth’ (p. 136). An unusual depiction of weaving cloth is the focus of Joanne W. Anderson’s study of a painted Annunciation scene in a church in South Tyrol. Focusing on the depictions of the Virgin weaving and an unfinished heraldic textile on her loom, Anderson deftly contextualizes the imagery to show how it expresses the devotional and social identities of the patrons. She concludes that material processes of cloth production also serve as a metaphor for creation, ‘of both things and life in the making’ (p. 159). A theme taken up by several contributors is how clothing signifies identity, denotes personal change, and mediates social relations. Through an intertextual analysis of the depiction of attire and changes of dress in The Niebelungenlied and the Völsunga Saga, Elizabeth M. Swedo argues that clothing was a ‘versatile and powerful signifier’ (p. 54). She distinguishes aesthetic preferences for types of clothing in the two traditions, arguing that ‘fictive clothing’, especially that which served as the vehicle for narrative action, needed to resonate with the cultural expectations and social experience of the audience. The material and cultural importance of cloth and clothing in elite households is the subject of Hugh Thomas’s finely grained study of the use of textiles at the court of John I of England. Drawing on household accounts such as close rolls, this study models approaches to...

Інтеграція виробників одягу та взуття у глобальні ланцюги доданої вартості: міжнародний досвід

Інтеграція виробників одягу та взуття у глобальні ланцюги доданої вартості: міжнародний досвід

Basic techniques for painting fabrics

The article discusses the basic techniques of painting fabrics. Today's fabric painting techniques are traditional techniques rethought and redesigned in accordance with the dictates of the time, greatly simplified and enriched at the same time. A huge variety of colors and accessories allow even beginners to paint for the manufacture of clothing and interior. Moving from simple to complex, you can master various techniques and learn how to combine them correctly to achieve maximum decorative effect.

Internet of Things and Blockchain Technology in Apparel Manufacturing Supply Chain Data Management

Abstract The rapid changes in textile and clothing industry's operational environment in which apparel businesses are collaborating with their suppliers and customers have recognized interoperability of information systems as an important factor. The need to address this challenge becomes vital in the context of new paradigms such as the Internet of Things (IoT), and its ability to capture realtime information from different parts of textile and cloth manufacturing value chain by using Radio Frequency Identification (RFID) tags and sensors-based data communication networks. In this process, enterprise information system architecture plays an important role in storing, processing, and distributing data. Despite contributing to the rapid development of IoT applications, the current IoT-centric architecture has led to a myriad of isolated data silos. This paper presents a blockchain-based architecture for the IoT applications, which brings distributed data management to support transactions services within a multi-party apparel business supply chain network.

Entrepreneurial Ecosystem Assessment in the Surgical Cotton Gauze and Bandage Cloth Cluster

Creating a sustainable entrepreneurial environment is vital for the success of cluster development. Surgical cotton and Bandage Cloth manufacturing is the traditional business for the people at Chatrapatti, Tamil Nadu, India. This cluster has more than 100 micro enterprises providing employment and contributing significantly to export. This research aims to assess the entrepreneurial ecosystem at Chatrapatti. A structured questionnaire is framed and collected from the 55 entrepreneurs at Chatrapatti and the result reveals that 92 percent of the entrepreneurs started sole proprietorship type of business without any business family background. 70 percent of them are degree or diploma holders, the majority of them are in the age category of 25 and above without prior industry experience from the same industry. The result reveals that capital, labor and raw material availability are the most influential factor to venture into the bandage cloth manufacturing business. Desire to make money, fear of unemployment and passion for self-employment are the highly motivating factors for starting the business. The entrepreneurs’ skill assessment reveals that the entrepreneurs have good ability in fundraising and estimating the cash flows for the business. They have good negotiating and communication skill but lack the strategy for promoting the product using the social media and website for reaching the global market. Research result highlighted that the entrepreneurs are having good networking with supplier, and good ability in inventory management. Factor analysis revealed that the friends and family support, network, the success of friends in business are the highly motivating factors for starting the business. The entrepreneurs felt that the municipality compliance regarding the pollution control highly affects their business and need support from government to implement recycling technologies and supportive funding for implementing

Computer aided design of knitted and woven fabrics and virtual garment simulation

Pattern cutting, sizing and fit are major issues for the clothing brands. All fashion companies are interested on how the product will fit their target customers and this involves making samples that eventually will not look or fit as per the desired design. 3D technology solutions are truly the best to deal with the existing needs of clothing manufacturers in order to diminish the costs and time of the sampling process, to improve the quality and reduce the rejects. In this study, the authors used automation techniques like computer pattern design, computer aided fabric production and 3D Simulation software. Two different fabrics (woven and knitted) were designed and produced. Then their material properties which have to be known by the 3D simulation were determined by official and in-house standards. Finally, 3D visualizations of dresses were created by using pattern and material data of the fabrics. By this study we were able to explain the product development route, from fabric design to garment prototype by using computers, for the companies willing to benefit from the advantages of computer aided design and manufacture.

Je viens d’Alep, itinéraire d’un réfugié ordinaire

Je viens d’Alep, itinéraire d’un réfugié ordinaire

Do Corporations Communicate What the General Public Expects? Investigating the Gap between Corporate Self-image and Public Perceptions of Corporate Responsibility

ABSTRACTThe present article uses a multi-method approach to compare two perspectives on the responsibility of corporations: the public image and the corporate self-image. Responsibility is understood as a social construct that depends on who attributes it. This also means that people can have very different perceptions of the responsibility of corporations, all of which may not be covered by typical Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) communication. Moreover, corporate legitimacy can be at risk if these perspectives drift too far apart. This article presents a public survey (N = 1,003) that was conducted in Germany, as well as a content analysis of responsibility judgments (N = 498) communicated by selected German corporations. The multi-method study uses the example of the clothing and banking industries. Results show differences between the self- and public images, particularly when it comes to the prioritization of responsibility fields. The people surveyed emphasize legal responsibility objects much more than the analyzed corporations. In addition, the self-image communicated by the researched clothing manufacturers deviates more from their public image than the self-image communicated by the banks. The findings suggest that corporations, especially from the clothing industry, should take stronger evaluation, communication monitoring and stakeholder dialogues into account.

Ven. schena / schina

Abstract The term schena / schina ‘measure of length in use in the field of cloth trade’ mainly appears in Venetian sources. The meaning derives from the special terminology of cloth manufacturing, where schena / schina refer to the centre of the surface of the cloth and to its central vertical fold. So far the etymology has not yet been explicitly and convincingly explained. In consideration of the material history of cloth production, the respective terminology, the equivalents in other languages and the forms of the word (schena, schina, schiena, ischiena), however, there is no doubt that the Venetian group has the same origin as It. schiena ‘back’.

Fabrics for Thermal Protective Clothing

The questions of the choice of fabrics for the manufacture of thermal protective clothing are highlighted, the results of a study of the resistance of fireproof and heat-resistant fabrics of various compositions to high temperatures are presented.

Branding: A Prosthesis of Identity

This article investigates the prosthesis of identity through the process of branding. It examines cross-cultural manifestations of this phenomena from sixth millennium BCE Syria to twelfth century Japan and Britain. From the Neolithic Era, humanity has sort to extend their identities using pictorial signs that were characteristically simple. Designed to be distinctive and instantly recognisable, the totemic symbols served to signal the origin of the bearer. Subsequently, the development of branding coincided with periods of increased in mobility both in respect to geography and social strata. This includes fifth millennium Mesopotamia, nineteenth century Britain, and America during the 1920s. There are fewer articles of greater influence on contemporary culture than A Theory of Human Motivation written by Abraham Maslow in 1943. Nearly seventy-five years later, his theories about the societal need for “belongingness” and “esteem” remain a mainstay of advertising campaigns (Maslow). Although the principles are used to sell a broad range of products from shampoo to breakfast cereal they are epitomised by apparel. This is with refence to garments and accessories bearing corporation logos. Whereas other purchased items, imbued with abstract products, are intended for personal consumption the public display of these symbols may be interpreted as a form of signalling. The intention of the wearers is to literally seek the fulfilment of the aforementioned social needs.

Assessing the Sustainment of a Lean Implementation Using System Dynamics Modeling

The adoption of the lean approach has yet to extend to the majority of manufacturers in developing countries where traditional work practices are dominant and cultural resistance to change is high. This research consists of a case study about lean implementation at a clothing manufacturer in a developing country. Production wastes are identified and appropriate lean techniques, namely Total Productive Maintenance, Kanban and Supermarket Pull, are identified to eliminate or reduce them. The potential impacts on the manufacturing system are first assessed using a system dynamics model. The modeling results showed a “getting worse before getting better” behavior as work-in-process increased in the short-term, before a net reduction of 34% on average was achieved over the first 3 months. This result was replicated by a similar trend in the actual lean implementation on the factory floor, showing the usefulness of SD modeling for supporting the sustainability of lean interventions where short-term drawbacks can be deceptive when compared to the long-term benefits of lean.

Розробка сучасного одягу для людей з інвалідністю

Improvement of the process of clothing development for people with different types of disabilities, due to the algorithm of the sequence of designing and manufacturing of products, schemes of solutions for the improvement of sewing products, taking into account special requirements for design, materials and technology for the manufacture of adaptive clothing.

Дизайн-проектування одягу для занять йогою. Повідомлення 2

The purpose of the work is to improve the design and manufacture of cloth for practicing yoga for take into account of studying the materials properties. Methods. The methodological basis of the work is the principle of consistency. The experimental studies of air permeability, hygroscopicity and tensile properties of knitted fabrics have been carried out with evaluate the properties of textile materials. Standardized and original methods and equipment has been chosen as research tools.

Features of tailoring women's clothing to the peasants of the Poltava province of the XIX - early XX centuries: as a significant contribution to the study of everyday life

In the process of historical, cultural development in Ukraine, in each region there were characteristic traditions of making women's clothes, kind, cut, ornamental motive, composition, color scale, specific technique of execution.
 Traditional costume has always been a vivid, visually fixed manifestation of nationality, identity of folk culture and is one of the most significant contributions to the study of everyday life. Over the years, he has changed, perceived the external influence, but despite all the accumulated significant ethno-cultural information, which testifies to the experience of the Ukrainian people, the idea of ​​the world, criteria of behavior, aesthetic tastes, regional features and cultural motives.
 The article is devoted to the study of the traditional system of Poltava, the manufacture and design of the main rural women's clothing of the Poltava province XIX - early XX century.

Chitosan incorporation for antibacterial property improvement of jute-cotton blended denim fabric

Jute-cotton blended denim is a new diversified product for the fashion and clothing sector. Chitosan was incorporated in this blend in order to improve its antimicrobial property. The incorporation of chitosan to the blended apparel was confirmed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Two microorganisms were used to create individual bacterial medium; one is the gram-positive Staphylococcus aureus and the other is the gram-negative Escherichia coli. Qualitative and quantitative assessments were carried out to evaluate antimicrobial property of chitosan, where the results appeared in favour of chitosan’s significant efficacy as an antimicrobial agent against both before-mentioned microorganisms. Because of low cost, easy application techniques and eco-friendly strategy; the success of this research will boost confidence of clothing product developers and manufacturers to use this blend as a fashionable fabric-material irrespective of climatic areas, gender or ages, that will vastly help to flourish massive scale business of major jute producing countries like Bangladesh and India.

Synthesis of a Highly Chained Polymeric Connecting in the Structure of a Multilayered Package for Garments

When using lightweight fabrics of costume-dress assortment for manufacture of clothes, the most challenging problem is to correlate changes in properties of shell fabric and fusible interlining during its transformation from flat to volumetric state. Developed the reinforced interlining materials capable of forming in conjunction with the shell fabric composites, possessing optimum shaping characteristics. They are easily shaped, and after a final wet-heat treatment they obtain required rigidity and elasticity values, thus ensuring that volumetric shape of a garment will be preserved in the process of wearing it by a user. The technology realizes original methods of selecting precision values for elastic-deformation properties in the laminate of shell fabric and an interlining by forming in a duplicating cloth 3D self-organizing structures of a reinforcing polymer-fibrous composite. It was proved that there is a chemical interaction between acrylate copolymers and polyamide adhesive, discretely distributed on the surface of interlinings. This ensures the formation of a three-dimensional reinforcing structures of a unique bristle-like shape, encrusting the surface of the fibers and penetrating into their nanoporous system. The required values for elastic-deformation properties of polymer-fibrous composite materials for various kinds of textile carriers can be found by changing topology of applying polymeric modifiers and conditions of copolymerization. A wide range of variation in elastic-deformation properties makes it possible to adapt quickly the assortment of interlining materials to the individual customer requirements taking into consideration the purpose of the manufactured clothing and characteristics of the shell materials.

매리골드 천연염색을 활용한 장옷 모티브의 신생아복 디자인 개발

This study is to design newborn clothing, which is safe for the less immune and sensitive skin of newborn babies and has functionality and aesthetics, using natural dyes of Marigold(Tagetes patula L.). The motive of design is Jang-ot, which is one of traditional costumes, and by reinterpreting the morphological features of Jang-ot’s Geodeulji(cuffs) in a modern way, a hand cover of newborn clothing was designed to prevent scars when babies scratch their faces or bodies. For this study, based on previous studies and experiments, the best condition was obtained to make cotton have the highest dyeing quality and colorfastness of Marigold(Tagetes patula L.), and it was applied to the manufacturing of newborn clothing with the motive of Jang-ot. After extracting Marigold dyes, thin linen cotton and 40s cotton were dyed with light yellow, which was not treated with mordant, deep yellow that was post-treated with AI mordant and deep green that was post-treated with Fe mordant. The design results are as follows. Design 1 with the motive of quilted Jang-ot is equipped with white Geodeulji in the end of the sleeves to recognize pollution and clean easily. Also, the armpit parts have small triangle gussets to improve the decorative effect. Design 2 with the motive of double-layered Jang-ot to gather clothes. By applying the form of the double string found in the relics to the fabric that was naturally dyed with Marigold. Design 3 with the motive of double-layered Jang-ot, dual-Seop(overlapped cloth of the garment in the center) consisting of two pieces; the fabric that was naturally dyed with Marigold used in the bodice pattern, and the fabric that was post-treated with AI mordant were used to express the dual-Seop of the relics. Design 4 with the motive of quilted Jang-ot, strings and knotted buttons were sewed on the Marigold-dyed fabric and the fabric that was post-treated with Fe mordant.