Oregon Places Clarence A.Oster The P Ranch House Fire AnEyewitness Account IOHN William (Peter) French was twenty-three years old when he arrived in eastern Oregon in 1872 with sixMexican vaqueros, a Chinese cook, and twelve hundred head of cattle. Dr. Hugh J. Glenn, a California wheat baron, sent French to the Harney Basin to establish a cattle ranch. Glenn financed the initial operation, and he and French eventually became partners in the French-Glenn Livestock Company.1 French was a dynamic and complex individual, small in stature but large in ambition and drive. A wiry five-feet-five-inches tall, he never weighed more than 135pounds. He had dark hair, with brilliant gray eyes set in a large head. By all accounts, he was a shrewd businessman and an industrious and skilled cattleman.2 A tireless worker himself, French expected much from his employees. "He was not a drinking man and did not approve of gambling," his biographer, Giles French, explained, but he "liked to dance and women liked to dance with him."3 French settled in the Blitzen Valley, where he eventually created a massive operation based at the P Ranch. He claimed or purchased land, established a large cattle herd, and built fences and a system of dams and canals to channel the water of the marshy lowlands. By the 1880s, the French-Glenn operation controlled more than a hundred thousand acres of land and owned around forty-five thousand head of cattle.4 By the 1880s and 1890s, conflicts over land and water rights had developed between large cattlemen and smaller farmers who claimed 284 OHQ vol. 106, no. 2 ? 200$ Oregon Historical Society QHS neg.,OrHi 56187(detail) ?- '.?.V .-v -. " . . . - ,-. -y - ? - . r %*;: : * The Harney Basin, shown here in 1939, supported a number of large cattle ranching operations in the late nineteenth century, including Peter French's French-Glenn Livestock Company. Oster, P Ranch House Fire 285 OHS neg.,OrHi 4277 Peter French and some of his crew eating dinner in the 1890s. French is leaning on the tailgate. homesteads in theHarney Basin. French had initiallymaintained friendly relations with homesteaders, sometimes hiring them, offering them beef when they needed food, and buying them out if they failed, reportedly at a fairprice. As he continued to aggressively seek control of land, however, animosity toward him grew. In addition to buying out homesteaders, French also acquired land bymanipulating the Swamp Land Act, direct ing his employees and others to establish homestead claims that he could then purchase, and fencing land in the public domain.5 In 1894, French filed a lawsuit to evict homesteaders who had settled on land he claimed around Malheur Lake, which served to escalate the hostility. Finally, in 1897, a homesteader named Ed Oliver shot and killed French.6 At the time of French's death, the P Ranch ran some seventy miles from the foothills of Steens Mountain to the south edge l. ofMalheur Lake. French's partners had little expertise or inter est in the cattle industry, and after French's death, the income from the P 286 OHQ vol. 106, no. 2 Ranch dwindled. Eventually the ranch was sold, but the land continued to be used for livestock production. The ranch was located along the Pacific Flyway and the lands within the meander lines ofMalheur, Mud, and Harney lakes were already a national bird refuge. InMay 1935, the federal government, interested in making the land into a bird sanctuary, purchased nearly sixty-five thousand acres of the former P Ranch from the Eastern Oregon Livestock Company. Additional small tracts of land were added to create theMalheur National Wildlife Refuge, one of the largestwildlife sanctuaries in theUnited States. The P Ranch land purchase included Peter French's home at the ranch headquarters, which was located near the southern end of the refuge, about amile east of Frenchglen.7 Different stories exist about the construction of the P Ranch house. One holds that French wanted tohave a nice home for his socialite bride, Ella Glenn, his partner's daughter. Royal Jackson and JenniferLee, who compiled an inventory of historic properties inHarney County, claim that the house was patterned after one of theGlenn...
Read full abstract