Male Climbers Research Articles

Injury Trends in Rock Climbers: Evaluation of a Case Series of 911 Injuries Between 2009 and 2012

Rock climbing is a widely performed sport. This prospective single-institution study evaluated the demographics of climbing-related injuries to improve our comprehension of current injury characteristics. During a 4-year period, 836 patients with a total of 911 independent climbing injuries were prospectively evaluated using a standard questionnaire and examination protocol. Of all injuries, 833 were on the upper extremities, 58 on the lower. Seventeen injuries were Union International des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) grade 1 injuries, 881 were grade 2, and 13 were grade 3. No higher UIAA graded injuries occurred. Overall, 380 were acute injuries (359 were seen in clinic, 21 were seen through the emergency department), and 531 were overstrain injuries (all seen in clinic). Finger injuries accounted for 52% of all injuries, the shoulder being the second most frequent location. Pulley injuries were the most frequent finger injuries. Of 20 injured young climbers under the age of 15 years, 14 had an epiphyseal fracture (all epiphyseal fractures: mean age 14 years, range 12 to 15 years). Male climbers were significantly older (P < .05), had more climbing years (P < .05), and were climbing at a higher climbing level (P < .01). Older, more experienced climbers had significantly more overstrain injuries than acute injuries (P < .05). When comparing this study with our previous study from 1998 to 2001, there are some notable differences. Although pulley injuries are still the most common climbing injury, there are now more A4 pulley injuries than A2. Shoulder injuries are becoming more common, as are epiphyseal fractures among young climbers. It is important to understand current patterns of climbing injuries so that health providers can target interventions appropriately.

Analysis of Climbing Postures and Movements in Sport Climbing for Realistic 3D Climbing Animations

Recently, sport climbing has become popular throughout the world. Sport climbing is an extreme sport where people climb an artificial wall with various artificial holds using their hands and feet. Technique training related to using hands and feet is necessary for novice climbers, hence we need effective training contents. The purpose of this research is to analyze postures and movements in sport climbing using Microsoft Kinect for realistic 3D climbing animations. A professional male climber participated in this research in order to obtain good movements for the animations. We divided a climbing cycle into four phase and analyzed each phase. The posture and movement data in sport climbing which are analyzed through this research will be used to make realistic 3D character animation.

Summer Climbing Incidents Occurring on Fujisan’s North Face from 1989 to 2008

Few studies exist on climbing-related incidents at Fujisan, although it is Japan's highest peak at 3776 m, and attracts dense crowds of summer climbers. A retrospective review was thus conducted to analyze the types of incidents and the demographics of climbers involved. Police reports of summer climbing incidents occurring along the Yoshida trail on Fujisan's north face from 1989 to 2008 were reviewed. Variables assessed included climber age, sex, experience, gear, altitude of incident, and whether the incident occurred during ascent or descent, as well as the cause and severity of any associated injury. A total of 155 incident reports were assessed, including 28 deaths mostly attributable to cardiac events occurring among male climbers during ascent. The majority of nonfatal incidents occurred during descent and most involved tripping. More than half of all incidents were reported at the 8th step (approximately 3000 m). The frequent appearance of male climbers without experience or adequate footwear reflects Fujisan's summer demographics, yet the injury rate appears higher among older climbers more than 50 years of age. There were also 28 noninjury incidents attributed to acute mountain sickness or fatigue. This retrospective review describes the demographics of summer climbing incidents on Fujisan's north face. Additionally, limitations to the current method of incident reporting were identified. More comprehensive recordkeeping would increase understanding of injuries and illness, which could improve resource allocation and reduce the risk of fatalities from out-of-hospital cardiac events.

Differences in Energy Expenditure and Health-related Fitness Characteristics of Male and Female Youth Rock Climbers

Differences in Energy Expenditure and Health-related Fitness Characteristics of Male and Female Youth Rock Climbers

The Relationship between Climbing Ability and Physiological Responses to Rock Climbing

Aim. The aim of this study was to examine the relationship between submaximal and maximal physiological responses to rock climbing for climbers of differing abilities. Methods. Twenty-six male climbers performed a submaximal climbing test on a known circuit at 90° (vertical) and 105° (15° overhanging) inclination and speed 25 movements·min−1. A maximal test was undertaken on a similar circuit at the same speed with inclination increasing by 10° for each successive 3 min stage. Results. Mean oxygen consumption and heart rate (HR) increased with wall inclination and climbers reached a mean (±SD) peak of 40.3 ± 3.5 mL·kg−1 ·min−1 during the maximal test. Self-reported climbing ability was negatively correlated with and HR during the submaximal test at 90° (, r = −0.82; HR, and r = −0.66) and at 105° (, r = −0.84; HR, and r = −0.78) suggesting an increased exercise economy for climbers with a higher ability level. Conclusion. Findings from this study indicate that there is a relationship between wall inclination and the physiological demand of a climb. However, the increased technical ability and fitness of higher level climbers appears to an extent to offset the increased demand through improved exercise economy which in turn leads to an increased time to exhaustion and an improvement in performance.

‘You don't understand us!’ An inside perspective on adventure climbing

This paper presents a specific (insider) perspective of a small group of experienced male Scottish adventure climbers and explores through in-depth semi-structured interviews their attitudes, strategies and justifications associated with potentially high-risk climbing situations. Attention is paid to how participants feel that they are represented and viewed by others (outsiders) who do not participate in mountaineering and climbing activities. Climbers identify the significance of media, commercial and social representations of them as risk takers. The analysis explores risk as being socially constructed, with the associated assumptions being embedded in particular discourses. Climbers present themselves as rational managers of risk and provide examples of their risk-management strategies, with such characterizations being central to their identity as climbers.

Zervikale Belastung während des Sicherns – der Einfluss verschiedener Sicherungstechniken auf die Mobilität der Halswirbelsäule

BackgroundAlways carefully watching the climber, the belayer has to keep a position for a long time, which is damaging to the cervical spine. This often causes stiffness in the neck, which leads to cervical restrictions of motion. 3 types of belaying, the habitual belaying, the “CU glasses” and the “coordinated head position”, have been examined relating to their ability to avoid muscular tensions. Materials and methodsThe mobility of the cervical spine of 30 male and female climbers has been measured with an inclinometer immediately before and after defined belaying of 10 min. The subjects have been distributed to the 3 types of belaying at random. Additional the subjects had to answer questions concerning their personal feelings and a pain-rating-scale. ResultsWithin the group with habitual belaying, significant limitations in the mobility of the cervical spine in each direction could be determined, connected with strong pain after defined belaying. While using the “CU glasses” or “coordinated head posture”, no restrictions in movement (for each direction p>.05) has been noticed. Subjects that belayed with the “coordinated head posture” complained about backache because of the unfamiliar, active posture. ConclusionsDepending on the actual climbing-situation, the belayer should use either the „CU glasses“ or the „coordinated head posture“, in order to avoid muscular tension in the neck. Level of evidenceIIa

전문가용 클라이밍 팬츠의 활동 기능성 수요특성 연구

Abstract This study aimed to identify professional climbers’demand for movement functionality in pants worn for rock climbing and ice climbing. Data were collected through in-depth interviews with 12 professional climbers using a semi-constructed questionnaire. The respondents were instructor-level experts whose climbing ability ranged from 5.9 to 5.14 on the Yosemite Decimal System rating scale. The research findings were as follows. Experts wore different climbing pants depending on the type of climbing. For example, they mostly wore high-stretch, second layer pants for rock climbing, while layering first layer, second layer, and third layer pants for ice climbing. There were gender differences regarding the parts of the body in which climbers reported the most discomfort when wearing climbing pants; male climbers most commonly responded ‘knees’, ‘inner thighs’ and ‘hips’ while their female counterparts most commonly responded ‘inner thighs’, ‘exposed back and waist’ and ‘hips’ in that order. Differences were found between rock climbing and ice climbing in terms of wear and tear on pants, preferred fabric properties, and length of pants. Wear and tear was found mainly on the hips and knees of rock climbing pants and on the inner lower hem of ice climbing pants. Listed in the order of preference, the most preferred fabric properties were elasticity, light weight, and durability for rock climbing pants and elasticity, insulation, and protection against water and wind for ice climbing pants. Regarding the length of rock climbing pants, respondents preferred ankle-length pants and cropped pants that did not cover the feet. For ice climbing pants, respondents favored heel-length pants that prevented pieces of ice from entering the clothing. Men showed a high level of preference for ergonomically cut climbing pants. Respondents said the waistband on climbing pants should be simplified so as not to adversely affect climbing maneuvers. Keywords: climbing pants(클라이밍 팬츠), rock climbing(암벽 등반), ice climbing(빙벽 등반), activity function(활동 기능성)

Periodic Breathing, Arterial Oxyhemoglobin Saturation, and Heart Rate during Sleep at High Altitude

The aim of this study was to investigate the effects of acclimatization to high altitude on periodic breathing (PB), arterial oxygen saturation (Sao(2)), and heart rate (HR). Nine male elite climbers, age 24-52 years underwent overnight cardiorespiratory monitoring at sea level and at Everest North Base Camp (5180 m), during the first (BC1) and the tenth (BC2) nights. PB was commonplace in all subjects at high altitude. PB cycle duration increased (p<0.0001) from BC1 (21.7±1.9 s) to BC2 (26.7±2.1 s). Mean Sao(2) from BC1 to BC2, significantly increased during wakefulness (77.4±3.4% vs. 82.5±2.8%; p<0.001) and during sleep regular breathing (73.3±3.8% vs. 77.8±2.9%; p=0.022). During PB, mean higher Sao(2) was 75.3±3.6% at BC1 and 82.4±2.9% at BC2 (p<0.001); mean lower Sao(2) was 68.2±4.0% at BC1 and 74.5±4.3% at BC2 (p<0.01). During PB, mean higher HR was 72.4±8.8 b/min at BC1 and 63.3±6.0 b/min at BC2 (p<0.0002); mean lower HR were 53.6±7.5% at BC1 and 43.6±7.3% at BC2 (p<0.0001). The mean Sao(2) during PB compared with Sao(2) at night without PB was unchanged. Acclimatization to high altitude resulted in an overall increase in Sao(2) along with an increase in the PB cycle duration and a decrease in HR.

Surgical Cricothyrotomy in the Wilderness: A Case Report

Although the surgical cricothyrotomy procedure is used on combat casualties in the most challenging environments, we are unaware of any published report in the United States of surgical cricothyrotomy performed in a wilderness recreational setting. We describe a 31-year-old male rock climber who fell 24.4 m (80 feet), sustaining serious injuries and requiring rescue from the base of the cliff by a cave/cliff rescue team. Ultimately, a surgical cricothyrotomy proved necessary because of ongoing oropharyngeal bleeding, facial fractures creating an unstable airway, and the need to place the patient in the litter. The patient survived a prolonged and arduous evacuation. This report presents the management of the patient during the rescue and the challenges faced by the rescue team physician and others that led to the decision to perform an improvised surgical cricothyrotomy.

Die isolierte Ruptur der distalen Biceps-femoris-Sehne beim Sportkletterer: eine seltene Verletzung

An isolated rupture of the distal tendon of the biceps femoris muscle without a direct trauma is an extremely rare injury. To date only a few case reports have been described in the literature. For sport climbers such an injury has never been described before. We report about a 41-year-old male sport climber complaining of such an injury after indoor rock-climbing. Unlike the previously described reports, the rupture occured during a phase of maximum static tension, without acceleration or movement of the knee joint. History and clinical characteristics, sonography and magnetic resonance imaging confirm the diagnosis and should always be performed to exclude other injuries. Early operative treatment with anatomic refixation of the ruptured tendon is necessary to restore function, although there are differences in the type of postoperative treatment.

Efficacy of pre‐ascent climbing route visual inspection in indoor sport climbing

Pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection (route preview) has been suggested as a key climbing performance parameter although its role has never been verified experimentally. We examined the efficacy of this perceptual-cognitive skill on indoor sport climbing performance. Twenty-nine male climbers, divided into intermediate, advanced and expert climbing level groups, climbed two indoor sport routes matching their climbing level and, where applicable, routes below their climbing level. At each level, one route was climbed with a preview, where participants benefited from a 3-min pre-ascent climbing route visual inspection. Performance was assessed in terms of output (route completion) and form (number and duration of moves and stops). Route preview did not influence the output performance. Climbers using visual inspection were no more likely to finish the ascent than those without the option of using visual inspection. Conversely, route preview did influence form performance; climbers made fewer, and shorter stops during their ascent following a preview of the route. Form performances differences remained when baseline ability levels were taken into account, although for shorter duration of stops only with expert climbers benefiting most from route preview. The ability to visually inspect a climb before its ascent may represent an essential component of performance optimization.

Climbing-specific finger flexor performance and forearm muscle oxygenation in elite male and female sport climbers

Climbing performance relies to a great extent on the performance of the finger flexor muscles. Only a few studies investigated this performance in top class climbers and only one study compared gender-specific differences. This study investigated the climbing-specific finger flexor strength and endurance and related muscular oxygenation in 12 elite female and male climbers and 12 non-climbers. After the assessment of maximum voluntary finger flexor contraction (MVC), two isometric finger flexor endurance tests were performed at 40% MVC until exhaustion. A continuous isometric test was followed by an intermittent isometric test (10s contraction, 3s rest). Changes in oxygenation of finger flexor muscles were recorded using near infrared spectroscopy. MVC and strength-to-weight ratio were greater in climbers than non-climbers (P=0.003; P<0.001) and greater in men than women (P<0.001; P=0.002). Time to task failure for the intermittent test and the force-time integrals for the continuous and the intermittent test were also significantly greater in climbers (P=0.030; P=0.027; P=0.005). During the intermittent test, re-oxygenation of the working muscles was faster in climbers (P<0.05) without gender-specific differences. Close correlations were demonstrated between the best on-sight climbing performance and strength-to-weight ratio (r (2)=0.946, P<0.001) only in female climbers. The superior intermittent finger flexor endurance of climbers over non-climbers may be explained by the faster re-oxygenation of the finger flexor muscles during the short rest phases.

Acute Mountain Sickness and Retinal Evaluation by Optical Coherence Tomography

Acute mountain sickness (AMS), the commonest form of altitude illness, might represent early-stage high altitude cerebral edema (HACE). Optical coherence tomography (OCT) was used to evaluate optic nerve head (ONH) consequences following a sojourn to extreme altitude. This prospective study included 4 high-altitude expeditions in Himalayas. Twenty-four eyes of 12 healthy male climbers underwent baseline and postexpedition complete ophthalmic evaluation, including OCT to measure the peripapillary retinal nerve fiber layer (RNFL) thickness, ONH parameters, and macular thickness and volume. Lake Louise Scoring (LLS) self-report questionnaire was used to estimate AMS severity. All mountaineers experienced symptoms of AMS (LLS: 5.1±1.1, range 4.0-7.0). Average peripapillary RNFL thickness showed a significant increase in postexpedition examination (94±23 µm, 47-115), compared with baseline values (89±19 µm, range 45-114) (p=0.034). Superior (p=0.036) and temporal (p=0.010) quadrants also showed an increased RNFL thickness following exposure to high altitude. Vertical integrated rim area (VIRA) was significantly higher in postexpedition examination (0.71±0.43 mm(3), 0.14-1.50) than in baseline examination (0.51±0.26 mm(3), 0.11-1.00) (p=0.002). Horizontal integrated rim width was significantly higher in postexpedition examination (1.90±0.32 mm(2), range 1.37-2.34) than in baseline examination (1.77±0.27 mm(2), 1.27-2.08) (p=0.004). There was no correlation between LLS and OCT parameters (p>0.05). In climbers with AMS, OCT was able to detect subtle increases in the peripapillary RNFL thickness and in some ONH measurements, even in absence of HACE and papilledema. These changes might be a sensitive parameter in physiologic acclimatization and in the pathogenesis of AMS.

Reporting climbing grades and grouping categories for rock climbing

Rock climbing is an increasingly popular adventure sport with a growing research base. To date the growth of research and reporting styles has been somewhat haphazard and as a consequence comparison between studies can be problematic. The aim of this paper was to make suggestions about a number of changes that could be made to improve the consistency in reporting between studies. Included with this paper are two new tables, one each for male and female climbers. These provide comparative grading scales for use in reporting for future studies. These tables also provide a suggested framework for grouping climbers according to their ability. Using the tables researchers could group the climbers in their study by a category name (lower grade, intermediate, advanced, elite or higher elite climber) or by a number (level 1-5). In addition, the authors make recommendations about climber characteristics that could usefully be reported in future to assist comparison between studies. It would be helpful to readers if the self-reported, highest lead climbs (on-sight and redpoint) could be reported for a climbing group, along with the types of climbing regularly undertaken.

Somatic Profile of Competitive Sport Climbers

Since rock climbing grows in popularity, the number of the respective scientific reports increases. However, those concerning anthropometric profile of elite climbers are scarce and inconsistent, thus the aim of the study was to describe the anthropometric characteristics of competitive sport climbers. Male rock climbers (n = 21) aged 17 – 29 years took part in the study; their climbing ability ranged from 6b to 8c in the French scale. Body height, body mass, arm span, length and girths of both extremities, shoulder and pelvis widths, as well as thickness of 5 skinfolds were determined. From these, body mass index (BMI), body fat content and selected anthropometric indices were calculated. Data collected for climbers were compared with those of untrained students (n = 165) of Warsaw Technical University. Although no between-group differences were found for body height, body mass, BMI or body fat content, the climbers exhibited significantly (p<0.001) lower pelvis-to-shoulder ratio, longer lower extremities (p<0.05), and greater arm length and arm span (p<0.001) compared to untrained students. The results of this study do not support the view that climbers are small in stature and of low body mass. It seems that the core of the issue is not in body size but rather in specific body proportions and this may be of great importance in selecting subjects to competitive sport climbing.

Inspiring College Students to Reach New Heights: Assessing Physical and Social Environments at a University Climbing Wall and Effects on Participant Satisfaction

Since the Appalachian State University (ASU) Outdoor Program's (OP) climbing wall opened in 2006, climbing wall managers have logged over 100,000 participations. As the program's most popular offering, the climbing wall has been identified as a gateway activity to other OP offerings. However, climbers routinely report dissatisfaction with the physical and social environments at the ASU climbing facility (A. Miller, personal communication, February 18, 2010). These complaints have included women who felt unwanted and uncomfortable at the climbing wall due to male climbers' attitudes, novice climbers who felt self-conscious around advanced climbers, and climbers who could not find enough easy routes and problems to keep them interested. The researchers' goal was to answer the following questions: How do the physical and social environments impact user satisfaction and feelings of acceptance? Is there a correlation between gender and dissatisfaction with the climbing wall environment? What can be done to increase participant satisfaction at the climbing wall?

Bilateral Absence of the A3 Pulleys in a Rock Climber

The patient was an 18-year-old male rock climber who was referred to a hand surgeon with a chief complaint of worsening pain in the proximal phalanx of his right middle finger. Past surgical history for the patient included surgical reconstruction of the A2 and A3 pulleys of the left middle finger 2 years prior, following a finger injury that occurred while rock climbing. While the A2 pulley was ruptured, the A3 pulley was absent and replaced by loose fibrous connective tissue. Magnetic resonance imaging was ordered, which demonstrated findings consistent with an absent A3 pulley of the right middle finger. Intraoperatively, these findings were confirmed and surgical reconstruction was performed. J Orthop Sports Phys Ther 2011;41(5):366. doi:10.2519/jospt.2011.0411

Hormone responses to a continuous bout of rock climbing in men

Rock climbing is rapidly increasing in popularity as a recreational activity and as a competitive sport. Few studies have tested acute physiological responses to climbing, and no studies to date have tested hormone responses to a climbing-based workout. This study aimed to measure testosterone (T), growth hormone (GH), and cortisol (C) responses to continuous vertical climbing in young male rock climbers. Ten male rock climbers, aged between 21 and 30 years, climbed laps on a submaximal 55' climbing route for 30 min, or until exhaustion, whichever came first. Heart rate (HR) was recorded after every lap. Blood samples were collected by venipuncture before (Pre), immediately post (IP), and 15 min after the climbing exercise (P15) to assess blood lactate and plasma GH, T, and C. Subjects climbed 24.9 ± 1.9 min and 507.5 ± 82.5 feet. Peak HR was 182.1 ± 2.3 bpm, and lactate (Pre: 2.9 ± 0.6 mmol/dL, IP: 11.1 ± 1.0 mmol/dL) significantly (P < 0.05) increased from Pre to IP. T concentrations significantly (P < 0.05) increased from Pre (6.04 ± 0.31 ng/mL) to IP (7.39 ± 0.40 ng/mL) and returned to baseline at P15 (6.23 ± 0.33 ng/mL). Cortisol levels did not significantly change during the protocol. GH significantly (P < 0.01) increased from Pre (0.63 ± 0.17 ng/mL) to IP (19.89 ± 4.53 ng/mL) and remained elevated at P15 (15.03 ± 3.89 ng/mL). An acute, short-term bout of high-intensity continuous climbing was an effective exercise stimulus for elevating plasma testosterone and growth hormone levels in young males.

Comparisons of Bone Mineral Density and Bone Quality in Adult Rock Climbers, Resistance-Trained Men, and Untrained Men

The nature of muscular contractions and episodes of impact loading during technical rock climbing are often varied and complex, and the resulting effects on bone health are unclear. The purpose of this study was to compare total body, lumbar spine, proximal femur, and forearm areal bone mineral density (aBMD) and tibia and forearm bone quality in male rock climbers (RC) (n = 15), resistance trained men (RT) (n = 16), and untrained male controls (CTR) (n = 16). Total body, anteroposterior (AP) lumbar spine, proximal femur, and forearm aBMD and body composition were measured using dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA) (Lunar Prodigy, v. 10.50.086; GE Healthcare, Waukesha, Wisconsin, U.S.A.). Volumetric BMD (vBMD), bone content, bone area, and muscle cross-sectional area (MCSA) of the tibia and forearm were measured using pQCT (peripheral quantitative computed tomography; Stratec XCT 3000, Pforzheim, Germany). No significant group differences were seen in bone-free lean body mass. CTR had significantly (p < 0.05) greater body fat % than RC and RT and significantly (p < 0.05) greater fat mass than RC. Lumbar spine and femoral neck aBMD were significantly (p < 0.05) greater in RT compared to both RC and CTR. RC had significantly (p < 0.05) lower aBMD at the 33% radius site than CTR. Forearm MCSA was significantly (p < 0.05) lower in CTR than in the other groups. No significant differences were seen between groups for vBMD or bone area of the tibia and forearm. In conclusion, resistance-trained men had higher bone density at the central skeletal sites than rock climbers; however, bone quality variables of the peripheral limbs were similar in rock climber and resistance-trained groups.