Local Wave Climate Research Articles

Wave Power as Solution for Off-Grid Water Desalination Systems: Resource Characterization for Kilifi-Kenya

Freshwater scarcity is one of humanity’s reoccurring problems that hamper socio-economic development in many regions across the globe. In coastal areas, seawater can be desalinated through reverse osmosis (RO) and transformed into freshwater for human use. Desalination requires large amounts of energy, mostly in the form of a reliable electricity supply, which in many cases is supplied by diesel generators. The objective of this work is to analyze the wave power resource availability in Kilifi-Kenya and evaluate the possible use of wave power converter (WEC) to power desalination plants. A particular focus is given use of WECs developed by Uppsala University (UU-WEC). The results here presented were achieved using reanalysis—wave data revealed that the local wave climate has an approximate annual mean of 7 kW/m and mode of 5 kW/m. Significant wave height and wave mean period are within 0.8–2 m and 7–8 s respectively, with a predominant wave mean direction from southeast. The seasonal cycle appeared to be the most relevant for energy conversion, having the highest difference of 6 kW/m, in which April is the lowest (3.8 kW/m) and August is the peak (10.5 kW/m). In such mild wave climates, the UU–WEC and similar devices can be suitable for ocean energy harvesting for water desalination systems. Technically, with a capacity factor of 30% and energy consumption of 3 kWh/m3, a coastal community of about five thousand inhabitants can be provided of freshwater by only ten WECs with installed capacity of 20 kW.

Impact of Fixed-Bottom Offshore Wind Farms on the Surrounding Wave Field

In this paper, the effect of an Offshore Wind Farm (OWF) on the surrounding wave field is numerically investigated in frequency domain, using a BEM numerical model based on the potential flow theory. The analysis is performed for regular waves of various periods and incident wave directions and for irregular waves with variable peak period and significant wave height. Specific cases of regular and irregular waves are compared, revealing the differences between the regular wave model and the real sea state. By numerically simulating the incident wave and the scattering effects caused by the OWF, indications are provided regarding the impact of the OWF on the local wave climate.

Statistical wave climate projections for coastal impact assessments

AbstractGlobal multimodel wave climate projections are obtained at 1.0° × 1.0° scale from 30 Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5 (CMIP5) global circulation model (GCM) realizations. A semi‐supervised weather‐typing approach based on a characterization of the ocean wave generation areas and the historical wave information from the recent GOW2 database are used to train the statistical model. This framework is also applied to obtain high resolution projections of coastal wave climate and coastal impacts as port operability and coastal flooding. Regional projections are estimated using the collection of weather types at spacing of 1.0°. This assumption is feasible because the predictor is defined based on the wave generation area and the classification is guided by the local wave climate. The assessment of future changes in coastal impacts is based on direct downscaling of indicators defined by empirical formulations (total water level for coastal flooding and number of hours per year with overtopping for port operability). Global multimodel projections of the significant wave height and peak period are consistent with changes obtained in previous studies. Statistical confidence of expected changes is obtained due to the large number of GCMs to construct the ensemble. The proposed methodology is proved to be flexible to project wave climate at different spatial scales. Regional changes of additional variables as wave direction or other statistics can be estimated from the future empirical distribution with extreme values restricted to high percentiles (i.e., 95th, 99th percentiles). The statistical framework can also be applied to evaluate regional coastal impacts integrating changes in storminess and sea level rise.

On the relation between the direction of the wave energy flux and the orientation of equilibrium beaches

The Equilibrium beach planform concept has been widely used in recent years as an engineering tool for modeling shoreline changes, designing new beaches and for stability studies of existing ones. It defines the final shape of a beach on a scale of years, which is important for solving erosion problems and for the design of nourishment projects. Throughout the literature, the planform final shape, hereinafter denoted as the Static Equilibrium Beach Orientation (SEBO), is obtained based on the direction of the mean wave energy flux of whole waves impinging on the coast. This paper investigates the effect of beach sediment size and the Shape of the Directional Distribution (SDD) of the energy flux of the wave climate on the direction that dictates the (SEBO). The study employs field data from 32 beaches along the Spanish coast and available long-term databases of directional wave climates. Initiation of sediment motion due to wave action is taken into account in order to filter the directional wave climate to consider only waves that are capable of moving the sediment. The results indicate that the direction of the mean energy flux of filtered waves is more appropriate for the determination of the (SEBO) than that of whole waves. Additionally, the results confirm the importance of both the filtration process of the local directional wave climate and the usage of the whole directional spectra in stability studies and coastal engineering practice.

Multiscale climate emulator of multimodal wave spectra: MUSCLE-spectra

Characterization of wave climate by bulk wave parameters is insufficient for many coastal studies, including those focused on assessing coastal hazards and long-term wave climate influences on coastal evolution. This issue is particularly relevant for studies using statistical downscaling of atmospheric fields to local wave conditions, which are often multimodal in large ocean basins (e.g. the Pacific). Swell may be generated in vastly different wave generation regions, yielding complex wave spectra that are inadequately represented by a single set of bulk wave parameters. Furthermore, the relationship between atmospheric systems and local wave conditions is complicated by variations in arrival time of wave groups from different parts of the basin. Here, we address these two challenges by improving upon the spatiotemporal definition of the atmospheric predictor used in statistical downscaling of local wave climate. The improved methodology separates the local wave spectrum into “wave families,” defined by spectral peaks and discrete generation regions, and relates atmospheric conditions in distant regions of the ocean basin to local wave conditions by incorporating travel times computed from effective energy flux across the ocean basin. When applied to locations with multimodal wave spectra, including Southern California and Trujillo, Peru, the new methodology improves the ability of the statistical model to project significant wave height, peak period, and direction for each wave family, retaining more information from the full wave spectrum. This work is the base of statistical downscaling by weather types, which has recently been applied to coastal flooding and morphodynamic applications. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

The Influence of the Subtropical High-Pressure Ridge on the Western Australian Wave Climate

Wandres, M., Pattiaratchi, C., Wijeratne, E.M.S., Hetzel, Y., 2016. The influence of the subtropical high-pressure ridge on the Western Australian wave climate. In: Vila-Concejo, A.; Bruce, E.; Kennedy, D.M., and McCarroll, R.J. (eds.), Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium (Sydney, Australia). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue, No. 75, pp. 567–571. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.Understanding the wave climate of a region is critical for its coastal zone management. The southwest Western Australian (SWWA) wave climate is dominated by waves generated in the energetic and variable Southern Ocean (SO) storm belt. The latitudinal variability of the SO storm belt can be described by the position (latitude) of the subtropical high-pressure ridge (STRP). To gain an understanding in how the SO storm belt influences the SWWA wave climate, the relationship between the STRP and the waves was examined. Wave data from three directional wave buoys along the SWWA shelf were compared to the STRP. The seasonal and interannual variability of the STRP and the wave climate indicated a significant correlation between the STRP and the SWWA wave heights with the strongest relationship during winter. A northward shift of the STRP resulted in a northward shift of the SO storm belt which led to increased wave heights in SWWA whereas a southward shift of the STRP resulted in decreased wave heights. The close relationship between the STRP and the local wave climate, suggests it could be used to estimate future wave climates in SWWA.

A Multimodal Wave Spectrum–Based Approach for Statistical Downscaling of Local Wave Climate

AbstractCharacterization of wave climate by bulk wave parameters is insufficient for many coastal studies, including those focused on assessing coastal hazards and long-term wave climate influences on coastal evolution. This issue is particularly relevant for studies using statistical downscaling of atmospheric fields to local wave conditions, which are often multimodal in large ocean basins (e.g., Pacific Ocean). Swell may be generated in vastly different wave generation regions, yielding complex wave spectra that are inadequately represented by a single set of bulk wave parameters. Furthermore, the relationship between atmospheric systems and local wave conditions is complicated by variations in arrival time of wave groups from different parts of the basin. Here, this study addresses these two challenges by improving upon the spatiotemporal definition of the atmospheric predictor used in the statistical downscaling of local wave climate. The improved methodology separates the local wave spectrum into “wave families,” defined by spectral peaks and discrete generation regions, and relates atmospheric conditions in distant regions of the ocean basin to local wave conditions by incorporating travel times computed from effective energy flux across the ocean basin. When applied to locations with multimodal wave spectra, including Southern California and Trujillo, Peru, the new methodology improves the ability of the statistical model to project significant wave height, peak period, and direction for each wave family, retaining more information from the full wave spectrum. This work is the base of statistical downscaling by weather types, which has recently been applied to coastal flooding and morphodynamic applications.

Potential wave energy production by different wave energy converters around Sicily

The performance of several Wave Energy Converter devices is evaluated at three sites located on the west side of Sicily. To select the most energetic site, the average potential wave energy along the coasts of Sicily is evaluated by adopting a third-generation spectral wave propagation model using as boundary conditions the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts operational archive wave and wind data. The most energetic sites are on the western side of Sicily. In the three hotspots identified, the mean energy flux is within the range of 5.33–7.52 kW/m. The analysis shows that all considered devices have a low capacity factor in their original configurations (2.19%–5.12%). The main causes of the poor results in terms of energy production are related to the fact that such devices are optimized for high-energy waves. A resizing of the devices on the basis of the local wave climate showed that a capacity factor that exceeds 30% could be obtained.

Beach morphologies induced by breakwaters with different orientations

A desired outcome in the construction of a detached emerged breakwater is the formation of an accretionary salient in its lee to augment the beach, improve beach amenity and provide an additional buffer from storm waves. The extent to which this salient forms and its morphology are strongly controlled by the breakwater geometry with respect to the original shoreline, sediment availability, and local wave climate. The purpose of this paper is to identify how breakwater geometry and orientation of gaps between individual breakwaters alter the direction of waves entering the gaps and change the asymmetry of the salients. Four distinct breakwater sites along the Emilia-Romagna coastline in Northern Italy were chosen for a detailed field and desktop study comprising three-dimensional topographic and bathymetric surveys, sediment sampling, LiDAR flights and historical shoreline mapping. The orientations of the shorelines at these four sites range over 43°, resulting in different exposures to the dominant waves. The oblique orientations of the gaps between individual breakwater segments at three of the four sites effectively create a “gap window” between breakwaters favoring the exposure of short-period waves from the north and diminishing the effect of longer waves from the dominant east. Salients can be symmetrical despite an acute angle of approach of the dominant deep water waves where refraction is enhanced by offshore topography and breakwaters are parallel to the shore. Waves approaching normal to the gap window undergo less diffraction due to their shorter length relative to the gap window width and undergo less attenuation by breaking and bottom friction if they are locally generated and have short periods. Greater breaking-wave energy on the gap-facing slope of the salient can create shoreline and morphological asymmetry. The implication is that breakwater orientations can be designed or altered to selectively dampen or facilitate wave energy to enhance sediment transport in a desired direction, provided that breakwaters are not too far offshore and sediment availability is not restricted to affect salient formation. Adjusting exposure via gap orientation can create morphologies that cannot be inferred from process-dominant conditions.

A weather-type statistical downscaling framework for ocean wave climate

Wave climate characterization at different time scales (long-term historical periods, seasonal prediction, and future projections) is required for a broad number of marine activities. Wave reanalysis databases have become a valuable source of information covering time periods of decades. A weather-type approach is proposed to statistically downscale multivariate wave climate over different time scales from the reanalysis long-term period. The model calibration is performed using historical data of predictor (sea level pressure) and predictand (sea-state parameters) from reanalysis databases. The storm activity responsible for the predominant swell composition of the local wave climate is included in the predictor definition. N-days sea level pressure fields are used as predictor. K-means algorithm with a postorganization in a bidimensional lattice is used to obtain weather patterns. Multivariate hourly sea states are associated with each pattern. The model is applied at two locations on the east coast of the North Atlantic Ocean. The validation proves the model skill to reproduce the seasonal and interannual variability of monthly sea-state parameters. Moreover, the projection of wave climate onto weather types provides a multivariate wave climate characterization with a physically interpretable linkage with atmospheric forcings. The statistical model is applied to reconstruct wave climate in the last twentieth century, to hindcast the last winter, and to project wave climate under climate change scenarios. The statistical approach has been demonstrated to be a useful tool to analyze wave climate at different time scales.

NEW ANALYTICAL APPROACHES FOR THE ASSESSMENT OF SHORELINE EVOLUTION IN THE VICINITY OF COASTAL STRUCTURES.

In this study new analytical schemes are presented for the assessment of the shoreline evolution in the vicinity of a newly constructed coastal defence on the beach of Borth in Wales. The innovation introduced in this study is that the analytical schemes which were used exceed the usual purpose of analytical modelling to describe simplified cases of beach change. Therefore, the new complex coastal defence system, recorded data of the local wave climate and a river-mouth which acts a source of sediment discharge could be used as input data for the assessment of the shoreline evolution. Initially, the coastal defence system was represented by a single impermeable groyne. The subsequent shoreline change was described mathematically by a relative partial differential equation (diffusion equation). The analytical solution to this equation was produced by using Laplace transforms, and the evaluation of this solution was executed with a Heaviside technique which allowed an arbitrary sequence of wave incidents to be taken into account. Then, the coastal defence scheme was represented by 2 groynes and artificial beach nourishment. The analytical solution to the relative partial differential equation describing the shoreline evolution was produced with the use of Fourier cosine transforms. Results for both simulations demonstrate the capability of the introduced analytical methods to deal with complicated situations but also their constraints

Modeling Coastal Salinity in Quasi 2D and 3D Using a DUALEM-421 and Inversion Software.

Rising sea levels, owing to climate change, are a threat to fresh water coastal aquifers. This is because saline intrusions are caused by increases and intensification of medium-large scale influences including sea level rise, wave climate, tidal cycles, and shifts in beach morphology. Methods are therefore required to understand the dynamics of these interactions. While traditional borehole and galvanic contact resistivity (GCR) techniques have been successful they are time-consuming. Alternatively, frequency-domain electromagnetic (FEM) induction is potentially useful as physical contact with the ground is not required. A DUALEM-421 and EM4Soil inversion software package are used to develop a quasi two- (2D) and quasi three-dimensional (3D) electromagnetic conductivity images (EMCI) across Long Reef Beach located north of Sydney Harbour, New South Wales, Australia. The quasi 2D models discern: the dry sand (<10 mS/m) associated with the incipient dune; sand with fresh water (10 to 20 mS/m); mixing of fresh and saline water (20 to 500 mS/m), and; saline sand of varying moisture (more than 500 mS/m). The quasi 3D EMCIs generated for low and high tides suggest that daily tidal cycles do not have a significant effect on local groundwater salinity. Instead, the saline intrusion is most likely influenced by medium-large scale drivers including local wave climate and morphology along this wave-dominated beach. Further research is required to elucidate the influence of spring-neap tidal cycles, contrasting beach morphological states and sea level rise.

ESTELA: a method for evaluating the source and travel time of the wave energy reaching a local area

The description of wave climate at a local scale is of paramount importance for offshore and coastal engineering applications. Conditions influencing wave characteristics at a specific location cannot, however, be fully understood by studying only local information. It is necessary to take into account the dynamics of the ocean surface over a large ‘upstream’ wave generation area. The goal of this work is to provide a methodology to easily characterize the area of influence of any particular ocean location worldwide. Moreover, the developed method is able to characterize the wave energy and travel time in that area. The method is based on a global scale analysis using both geographically and physically based criteria. The geographic criteria rely on the assumption that deep water waves travel along great circle paths. This limits the area of influence by neglecting energy that cannot reach a target point, as its path is blocked by land. The individual spectral partitions from a global wave reanalysis are used to reconstruct the spectral information and apply the physically based criteria. The criteria are based on the selection of the fraction of energy that travels towards the target point for each analysed grid point. The method has been tested on several locations worldwide. Results provide maps that inform about the relative importance of different oceanic areas to the local wave climate at any target point. This information cannot be inferred from local parameters and agrees with information from other approaches. The methodology may be useful in a number of applications, such as statistical downscaling, storm tracking and grid definition in numerical modelling.

A method for finding the optimal predictor indices for local wave climate conditions

In this study, a method to obtain local wave predictor indices that take into account the wave generation process is described and applied to several locations. The method is based on a statistical model that relates significant wave height with an atmospheric predictor, defined by sea level pressure fields. The predictor is composed of a local and a regional part, representing the sea and the swell wave components, respectively. The spatial domain of the predictor is determined using the Evaluation of Source and Travel-time of wave Energy reaching a Local Area (ESTELA) method. The regional component of the predictor includes the recent historical atmospheric conditions responsible for the swell wave component at the target point. The regional predictor component has a historical temporal coverage (n-days) different to the local predictor component (daily coverage). Principal component analysis is applied to the daily predictor in order to detect the dominant variability patterns and their temporal coefficients. Multivariate regression model, fitted at daily scale for different n-days of the regional predictor, determines the optimum historical coverage. The monthly wave predictor indices are selected applying a regression model using the monthly values of the principal components of the daily predictor, with the optimum temporal coverage for the regional predictor. The daily predictor can be used in wave climate projections, while the monthly predictor can help to understand wave climate variability or long-term coastal morphodynamic anomalies.

An Integrated Approach to Assess Wave Exposure in Coastal Areas for Vulnerability Analysis

Assessing the vulnerability to storm surges requires amongst other things to identify the degree of coastal exposure to active waves. This paper proposes an integrated analytical approach that involves: 1) the degree of coastal exposure to different wave directions of incidence, 2) the extent of human structures at risk, and 3) the maximum wave height determination for each identified direction based on local wave climate analysis. It contributes to the development of a method for assessing vulnerability of existing built coastal assets to storm surge damages. Results provide a diagnostic of constructions’ vulnerability, which is essential for adaptation and mitigation planning. This approach was applied to beaches of Santa Catarina Island on the Brazilian southern coast. The northeast wave direction endangers most of the area due to the existing occupation pattern close to the sea toward that quadrant. Extreme events are more frequently associated with south and southeast wave directions. Integrating all variables, northeast wave direction was confirmed as the most dangerous in the area, followed by southern, eastern and southeastern directions, respectively. These results differ from usual estimations that tend to consider the most frequent wave directions and higher intensities, without considering the potentially affected developed surfaces.

Observaciones del espectro de oleaje direccional en el Pacífico colombiano

En este estudio se presenta el análisis de datos de oleaje recopilados, en el Pacífico Colombiano, por la Dirección General Marítima de Colombia desde el año 2009 hasta el presente. Estos datos constan de espectros bidimensionales (dirección y frecuencia) del oleaje, registrados por boyas del tipo Triaxys. La red de observación está constituida por cuatro boyas dispuestas a lo largo de la costa Pacífica Colombiana, en las localidades de Tumaco, Gorgona, Buenaventura, y Solano. Las boyas se encuentran ancladas cerca del borde de la plataforma continental, donde la profundidad es de alrededor de 130m. Para el análisis se cuenta además con datos de viento de estaciones meteorológicas cercanas a las boyas, y también datos de viento del modelo del Centro Europeo para el Pronóstico del Tiempo a Corto Plazo (ECMWF, por sus siglas en Inglés). El análisis de los datos de olas se aborda con énfasis en los parámetros del espectro y los diferentes sistemas de oleaje que conforman el clima local del oleaje. Los resultados permiten apreciar claramente cuatro sistemas de oleaje, dos de ellos con procedencias del Sur-occidente y los otros dos procedentes del Nor-occidente. Los pares con direcciones similares se diferencian entre si por sus frecuencias pico, dos de ellos alrededor de 0.07Hz y los otros dos alrededor de 0.16Hz. Se detecta además la presencia de un quinto sistema procedente del Sur-occidente con muy bajas frecuencias. Sin embargo su rango de frecuencia es muy cercano al del límite inferior de registro del instrumento, por esta razón su error asociado podría ser alto. De las estadísticas generales se puede inferir que las condiciones de viento y de oleaje en la zona varían entre bajas y moderadas, con alturas significativas de ola del orden de 1m, y vientos del orden de 3m/s. Sin embargo, algunos eventos específicos pueden superar velocidades del viento de 10m/s, y alturas de ola de más de 2m con periodos promedio sobre los 15s.

Wave electricity production in Italian offshore: A preliminary investigation

In this paper the feasibility of wave energy exploitation off the Italian coasts is investigated. At this aim, the energy production and the performance characteristics of three of the most promising and documented wave energy converters (AquaBuOY, Pelamis and Wave Dragon) are estimated for two of the most energetic Italian locations. The sites are Alghero, on the western coast of Sardinia and Mazara del Vallo, on the Sicily Strait and they have respectively an average annual wave power of 10.3 kW/m and 4 kW/m, and an available annual wave energy of 90 MWh/m and 35 MWh/m.The energy production of the hypothetical wave farms is calculated based on the performance matrices of the wave energy converters (WECs) and on 21 years of wave buoy records, covering the period from 1990 to 2011. The estimated capacity factors are low (between 4% and 9%) compared to the ones obtained for the same wave energy converters in other locations and are affected by a strong seasonal variability. This indicates that the considered WECs are oversized with respect to the local wave climate and that a more efficient energy conversion would be obtained if they were downscaled according to the typical wave height and period of the study sites. As a consequence of the optimization of the device scale, at Alghero the deployment of 1:2.5 AquaBuOY, Pelamis or Wave Dragon devices would result in capacity factors around 20% and in a quite constant energy production throughout the year. In fact, the size reduction of the wave energy converters allows to capture the energy of the small waves which would otherwise be lost with the original WECs.The results of the present work suggest that deploying classic wave energy converters in Italian seas would not be cost effective but if the devices could accommodate a proper downscaling, their performance in energy conversion would become economically attractive also for some Italian locations.

Seeking harmony in coastal development for small islands: Exploring multifunctional artificial reefs for São Miguel Island, the Azores

The Azores is a remote archipelago rich in biodiversity, geodiversity and cultural heritage located in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean. It comprises nine volcanic Small Islands (SIs) scattered over 600km and are vulnerable to coastal hazards due to limited land availability and ocean exposure. To mitigate and adapt to hazards and human occupation, traditional hard-engineering structures have been used. However, these structures have negative impacts on natural coastal character and amenity value and with growing environmental awareness, soft-engineering solutions designed to work with natural processes, such as multifunctional artificial reefs (MFARs), are globally becoming more appealing. MFARs are offshore submerged structures which provide coastal protection while enhancing marine and recreational amenities such as surfing, diving and beach widening. This paper determines “optimal” MFAR multifunctional design criteria based on current progress and assessment of nine international MFARs installed to-date. It subsequently explores MFAR feasibility in São Miguel Island, the biggest and most populated Azorean Island with the largest surfing population. An assessment of surf breaks was undertaken, including coastal processes and retreat rates, and MFAR site selection, criteria and rationale are discussed. By considering site-specific parameters such as local bathymetry, wave climate, tides, coastal processes and marine environment alongside tourism potential and surf culture, São Roque reef was selected as a potential MFAR to provide both coastal protection and surfing amenity.

Coupled economic‐coastline modeling with suckers and free riders

AbstractShoreline erosion is a natural trend along most sandy coastlines. Humans often respond to shoreline erosion with beach nourishment to maintain coastal property values. Locally extending the shoreline through nourishment alters alongshore sediment transport and changes shoreline dynamics in adjacent coastal regions. If left unmanaged, sandy coastlines can have spatially complex or simple patterns of erosion due to the relationship of large‐scale morphology and the local wave climate. Using a numerical model that simulates spatially decentralized and locally optimal nourishment decisions characteristic of much of U.S. East Coast beach management, we find that human erosion intervention does not simply reflect the alongshore erosion pattern. Spatial interactions generate feedbacks in economic and physical variables that lead to widespread emergence of “free riders” and “suckers” with subsequent inequality in the alongshore distribution of property value. Along cuspate coastlines, such as those found along the U.S. Southeast Coast, these long‐term property value differences span an order of magnitude. Results imply that spatially decentralized management of nourishment can lead to property values that are divorced from spatial erosion signals; this management approach is unlikely to be optimal.

Optimization of Nearshore Dredge Pit Design to Reduce Impacts on Adjacent Beaches

ABSTRACT Benedet, L.; Finkl, C.W., and Dobrochinski, J.P.H., 2013. Optimization of nearshore dredge pit design to reduce impacts on adjacent beaches. The magnitude of the effects of nearshore dredge pits on adjacent beaches depends on a range of parameters, including seabed geomorphology, local wave climate, sediment supply, and pit design characteristics (e.g. distance offshore, depth of cut, cross-shore and alongshore extents, shape of pit). Delft3D, a morphological model developed by Deltares, was used to investigate relationships between dredge pit design parameters and impacts on adjacent beaches. The purpose of this study was to identify design parameters that affected the magnitude of dredge pit effects on adjacent beaches. An ancillary purpose was to develop a scientific basis for dredge pit design recommendations for beach restoration and other sediment needs of coastal infrastructure projects. Dredge pit design sensitivity tests were conducted using Delft3D. A schematic model was constructed usi...