Stratum Corneum Lipids Research Articles

Mechanisms of the Drug Penetration Enhancer Propylene Glycol Interacting with Skin Lipid Membranes.

Very few drugs have the necessary physicochemical properties to cross the skin's main permeability barrier, the stratum corneum (SC), in sufficient amounts. Propylene glycol (PG) is a chemical penetration enhancer that could be included in topical formulations in order to overcome the barrier properties of the skin and facilitate the transport of drugs across it. Experiments have demonstrated that PG increases the mobility and disorder of SC lipids and may extract cholesterol from the SC, but little is known about the molecular mechanisms of drug permeation enhancement by PG. In this work, we have performed molecular dynamics (MD) simulations to investigate the molecular-level effects of PG on the structure and properties of model SC lipid bilayers. The model bilayers were simulated in the presence of PG concentrations over the range of 0-100% w/w PG, using both an all-atom and a united atom force field. PG was found to localize in the hydrophilic headgroup regions at the bilayer interface, to occupy the lipid-water hydrogen-bonding sites, and to slightly increase lipid tail disorder in a concentration-dependent manner. We showed with MD simulation that PG enhances the permeation of small molecules such as water by interacting with the bilayer interface; the results of our study may be used to guide the design of formulations for transdermal drug delivery with enhanced skin permeation, as well as topical formulations and cosmetic products.

Microbiome and lipidomic analysis reveal the interplay between skin bacteria and lipids in a cohort study.

Human skin acts as a protective barrier between the body and the external environment. Skin microbiome and intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum (SC) are essential for maintaining skin barrier function. However, the interplay between skin bacteria and the lipids is not fully understood. In this study, we characterized the skin microbiome and SC lipid profiles from the forearm and face in a cohort of 57 healthy participants. 16S rRNA gene sequencing showed the skin microbial composition is significantly different between body locations and genders. Female forearm samples have the highest microbial diversity. The relative abundance of Staphylococcus hominis, Micrococcus luteus, Corynebacterium tuberculostearicum, Finegoldia magna, and Moraxellaceae sp. are significantly higher in the forearm than the face. The predictive functional analysis of 16S rRNA gene sequencing by Phylogenetic Investigation of Communities by Reconstruction of Unobserved States (PICRUSt2) and ANCOM-BC showed different bacterial metabolic pathway profiles between body locations or genders, and identified 271 differential pathways, including arginine and polyamine biosynthesis, chorismate biosynthesis pathways, which are more abundant in the female forearm, and sulfur oxidation pathway, which is more abundant in the male face. The SC lipid profiles differ between the body locations as well. Total free fatty acids (FFA), cholesterol sulfate and sphingosine are more abundant in the face. Dihydro-/6-hydroxy/phyto-ceramides are more abundant in the forearm. The correlation analysis of 16S rRNA gene sequencing and lipids revealed novel interplay between the bacteria and skin lipids. Shannon entropy and S. hominis negatively correlated with FFA, cholesterol sulfate and sphingosine; while positively correlated with dihydro-/6-hydroxy/phyto-ceramides. The correlation of predictive pathway profiles and lipids identified pathways involved in amino acids metabolism, carbohydrates degradation, aromatic compounds metabolism and fatty acid degradation metabolism are positively correlated with dihydro-/6-hydroxy/phyto-ceramides and negatively correlated with FFA, cholesterol sulfate and sphingosine. This study provides insights on the potential correlation between skin microbiome and lipids.

Unraveling UVB effects: Catalase activity and molecular alterations in the stratum corneum

AimUltraviolet B (UVB) radiation can compromise the functionality of the skin barrier through various mechanisms. We hypothesize that UVB induce photochemical alterations in the components of the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum (SC), and modulate its antioxidative defense mechanisms. Catalase is a well-known antioxidative enzyme found in the SC where it acts to scavenge reactive oxygen species. However, a detailed characterization of acute UVB exposure on the activity of native catalase in the SC is lacking. Moreover, the effects of UVB irradiation on the molecular dynamics and organization of the SC keratin and lipid components remain unclear. Thus, the aim of this work is to characterize consequences of UVB exposure on the structural and antioxidative properties of catalase, as well as on the molecular and global properties of the SC matrix surrounding the enzyme. ExperimentsThe effect of UVB irradiation on the catalase function is investigated by chronoamperometry with a skin covered oxygen electrode, which probes the activity of native catalase in the SC matrix. Circular dichroism is used to explore changes of the catalase secondary structure, and gel electrophoresis is used to detect fragmentation of the enzyme following the UVB exposure. UVB induced alterations of the SC molecular dynamics and structural features of the SC barrier, as well as its water sorption behavior, are investigated by a complementary set of techniques, including natural abundance 13C polarization transfer solid-state NMR, wide-angle X-ray diffraction, Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and dynamic vapor sorption microbalance. FindingsThe findings show that UVB exposure impairs the antioxidative function of catalase by deactivating both native catalase in the SC matrix and lyophilized catalase. However, UVB radiation does not alter the secondary structure of the catalase nor induce any observable enzyme fragmentation, which otherwise could explain deactivation of its function. NMR measurements on SC samples show a subtle increase in the molecular mobility of the terminal segments of the SC lipids, accompanied by a decrease in the mobility of lipid chain trans-gauche conformers after high doses of UVB exposure. At the same time, the NMR data suggest increased rigidity of the polypeptide backbone of the keratin filaments, while the molecular mobility of amino acid residues in random coil domains of keratin remain unaffected by UVB irradiation. The FTIR data show a consistent decrease in absorbance associated with lipid bond vibrations, relative to the main protein bands. Collectively, the NMR and FTIR data suggest a small modification in the composition of fluid and solid phases of the SC lipid and protein components after UVB exposure, unrelated to the hydration capacity of the SC tissue. To conclude, UVB deactivation of catalase is anticipated to elevate oxidative stress of the SC, which, when coupled with subtle changes in the molecular characteristics of the SC, may compromise the overall skin health and elevate the likelihood of developing skin disorders.

Construction and Properties of O/W Liquid Crystal Nanoemulsion.

Liquid crystal emulsion is a new type of emulsion, in which the emulsifier molecules are located at the oil/water (O/W) interface and form a long-range ordered and short-range disordered lamellar liquid crystal. The lamellar liquid crystal formed by the emulsifier is similar to the skin stratum corneum lipid structure, which enables it to have a broad application prospect in the fields of cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, etc. In this work, a liquid crystal nanoemulsion was obtained by passing a liquid crystal emulsion stabilized by hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterol combination through a microfluidizer. The microstructure of the prepared liquid crystal nanoemulsion was investigated experimentally by dynamic light scattering, transmission electron microscopy, and small-angle X-ray scattering. The results have shown that the nanoemulsion inherited the liquid crystal emulsion property, namely, the long-range ordered and short-range disordered lamellar structure still existed at the oil/water interface even though they underwent extrusion, friction, and acceleration. At the same time, the underlying mechanisms of the existence of lamellar liquid crystal between the oil phase and the water phase for the nanoemulsion were explored theoretically by molecular dynamics simulations. The simulation results elucidated that the hydrogenated lecithin and phytosterol combination improved the flexibility of the bilayer structure composed of emulsifiers. The bilayers were the basic structure units of lamellar liquid crystals, and thus, the improved flexibility of bilayers provided insurance for the existence of lamellar liquid crystals with larger curvature around the oil droplets. In addition, the applicable properties of liquid crystal nanoemulsion were studied, and the results have shown that the liquid crystal nanoemulsion presented better slow-release and moisturizing properties than traditional nanoemulsions due to the existence of multilayers between oil and water phases. This work not only provides necessary information for the development and effective application of liquid crystal emulsions but also is helpful for in-depth understanding the inner properties of lamellar liquid crystal at molecular level.

Development of a novel human stratum corneum mimetic phospholipid ­vesicle-based permeation assay models for in vitro permeation studies

Objectives To develop and evaluate a novel human stratum corneum (SC) mimetic phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay (PVPASC) model for in vitro permeation studies. Significance Due to the increasing restrictions on the use of human and animal skins, artificial skin models have attracted substantial interest in pharmaceuticals and cosmetic industries. In this study, a modified PVPASC model containing both SC lipids and proteins was developed. Methods The PVPASC model was optimized by altering the lipid composition and adding keratin in the formulation of large liposomes. The barrier properties were monitored by measuring the electrical resistance (ER) and permeability of Rhodamine B (RB). The modified PVPASC model was characterized in terms of the surface topography, solvent influence and storage stability. The permeation studies of the active components in Compound Nanxing Zhitong Plaster (CNZP) were performed to examine the capability of PVPASC in the application of skin penetration. Results The ER and P app values of RB obtained from the optimized PVPASC model indicated a similar barrier property to porcine ear skin. Scanning electron microscope analysis demonstrated a mimic ‘brick-and-mortar’ structure. The PVPASC model can be stored for three weeks at −20 °C, and withstand the presence of different receptor medium for 24 h. The permeation studies of the active components demonstrated a good correlation (r 2 = 0.9136) of P app values between the drugs’ permeation through the PVPASC model and porcine ear skin. Conclusion Keratin contained composite phospholipid vesicle-based permeation assay models have been proven to be potential skin tools in topical/transdermal permeation studies.

A Stratum corneum lipid model as a platform for biophysical profiling of bioactive chemical interactions at the skin level

Stratum Corneum (SC), the outermost layer of mammalian skin, provides the first and most challenging barrier to skin permeation of cosmetic and pharmaceutical compounds. SC barrier function relies primarily on the complex structure and organization of the intercellular lipid matrix. This matrix consists mainly of ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA), and cholesterol (Chol) in an equimolar ratio, forming a multilamellar structure with short- and long-periodicity phases. Along with permeation studies, it becomes paramount the molecular investigation of the interaction between the lipid matrix and the compounds, towards a comprehensive picture of their biophysical impact, including lipid packing impairment, which can result in skin damage, and in consequences for their permeation and mechanism of action. In this study, a lipid-based model (CER[EOS]:CER[AP]:Chol:FFA) was developed to accurately resemble the barrier properties of the intercellular lipid matrix. In a monolayer assembly, this SC lipid model was characterized and applied as an in vitro platform to explore interactions with model compounds – caffeine and testosterone – following OECD recommendations. The SC model successfully mimicked different barrier properties of the SC’s lipid matrix, and its interactions with the model compounds were discussed closely aligned with existing data, including in vitro permeation studies using human and animal membranes. This SC model can be a step forward towards the development of new in vitro platforms for investigating the skin barrier function and the interactions with external molecules. Moreover, the composition of these platforms can be easily modified to mimic impaired lipid matrices to study different skin conditions, providing valuable insights for both cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

Considering Phytosphingosine-Based Ceramide Formulations for Atopic Skin Care

This review provides an overview of the structural and functional features of key phytosphingosine-based ceramides (CERs), notably CER[EOP], CER[NP], and CER[AP], and their role in atopic skin health. Herein, we discuss how these indispensable stratum corneum (SC) lipids maintain skin barrier homeostasis and contribute to the skin’s barrier function in terms of its cohesiveness and resilience. We also consider the usefulness of CER[EOP], CER[NP], and CER[AP] in preserving skin hydration and protecting and/or repairing dry, itchy, or sensitive skin. Next, we explore how and to what extent an imbalance or inadequate amounts of CER[EOP], CER[NP], and CER[AP] contribute to the hallmark characteristics of atopic skin diseases like eczema. Furthermore, we discuss the importance of complementary SC resident lipids such as cholesterol (CHOL) and free fatty acids (FFAs), which are crucial for optimal CER function. Studies have shown that delivering topical CERs in balanced and optimal combination with CHOL and FFAs—while supporting and boosting the endogenous biosynthesis of CERs using ingredients such as niacinamide and lactic acid—helps relieve symptoms of atopic diseases to provide some measure of relief. Finally, we look at some emerging ingredients that can complement the science of CERs in healthy and diseased skin.

Stratum Corneum Lipids in Non-Lesional Atopic and Healthy Skin following Moisturizer Application: A Randomized Clinical Experiment.

It is an international standard to recommend patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) to use moisturizers; however, little is known about their effect on lipids in the stratum corneum (SC). In this randomized clinical experiment of 30 Caucasian participants (15 with AD and 15 healthy controls), the superficial SC lipid profile was assessed through tape stripping non-lesional skin following treatment thrice daily for seven days with a moisturizer, and subsequently compared with untreated skin. No discernible disparity in superficial SC lipid quantity was evident between the AD group and the control group. However, the SC lipid composition diverged significantly, with the AD group exhibiting diminished levels of long-chain EO CERs (p = 0.024) and elevated levels of short-chain C34 CERs (p = 0.025) compared to healthy skin. Moisturizer application significantly reduced the total SC lipids and all lipid subgroups in both groups. Within the AD group, a non-significant inclination towards an augmentation in EO CERs (p = 0.053) and reduction in C34 CERs (p = 0.073) was observed. The recent identification of distinctions in SC lipid composition between AD and healthy skin was substantiated by our findings. Topical moisturizer application, despite reducing overall total lipids, indicated a potential tendency towards a healthier lipid constitution in AD skin.

Lipids in the American Alligator stratum corneum provide insights into the evolution of vertebrate skin

In terrestrial vertebrates, the outermost layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), provides a durable and flexible interface with the environment and is comprised of corneocytes embedded in lipids. However, the morphology and lipid composition of the SC varies throughout evolutionary history. Because crocodilians and birds phylogenetically bracket the Archosaurian clade, lipid composition in crocodilian SC may be compared with that of birds and other vertebrates to make inferences about broader phylogenetic patterns within Archosaurs while highlighting adaptations in vertebrate skin. We identified and quantified lipid classes in the SC of the American Alligator (Alligator mississippiensis) from three skin regions varying in mobility. Our results find similarities in lipid composition between alligator and avian SC, including a high percentage of cerebrosides, a polar lipid previously found only in the SC of birds and bats. Furthermore, polar lipids were more abundant in the most mobile region of the SC. Because polar lipids bind with water to increase skin hydration and therefore its pliability under physical stress, we hypothesize that selection for lipids in Archosaurian SC was driven by the unique distribution of proteins in the SC of this clade, and cerebrosides may have served as pre-adaptations for flight.

The Development and Characterization of Novel Ionic Liquids Based on Mono- and Dicarboxylates with Meglumine for Drug Solubilizers and Skin Permeation Enhancers.

In this study, we synthesized a family of novel ionic liquids (ILs) with meglumine (MGM) as cations and tartaric acid (TA), azelaic acid (AA), geranic acid (GA), and capric acid (CPA) as anions, using pharmaceutical additives via simple acid-base neutralization reactions. The successful synthesis was validated by attenuated total reflection-Fourier transform infrared (ATR-FTIR) and powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD). Thermal analysis using differential scanning calorimetry confirmed the glass transition temperature of MGM-ILs to be within the range of -43.4 °C--13.8 °C. We investigated the solubilization of 15 drugs with varying pKa and partition coefficient (log P) values using these ILs and performed a comparative analysis. Furthermore, we present MGM-IL as a new skin permeation enhancer for the drug model flurbiprofen (FRP). We confirmed that AA/MGM-IL improves the skin permeation of FRP through hairless mouse skin. Moreover, AA/MGM-IL enhanced drug skin permeability by affecting keratin rather than stratum corneum lipids, as confirmed by ATR-FTIR. To conclude, MGM-ILs exhibited potential as drug solubilizer and skin permeation enhancers of drugs.

Future onset of food allergy without eczema early in life has unique stratum corneum lipid signature

Future onset of food allergy without eczema early in life has unique stratum corneum lipid signature

Permeation of actives in the stratum corneum lipid matrix

Permeation of actives in the stratum corneum lipid matrix

Umbilical therapy for promoting transdermal delivery of topical formulations: Enhanced effect and underlying mechanism

Umbilical paste therapy is a promising method to promote transdermal drug delivery of topical formulations. This work investigated the effect and mechanism of transdermal drug delivery through the umbilical skin. The transdermal permeation studies showed the phenomenon of higher cumulative penetration and faster penetration rates for drug through the umbilical skin compared with non-umbilical skin, namely umbilical pro-permeability. This special transdermal permeability of drugs is influenced by their molecular weight, logP value, ability to form hydrogen bonds, and molecular volume. The underlying mechanism of umbilical pro-permeability was elucidated from unique structure and regulation the effect of drugs on microcirculation in the umbilical skin. Mechanistic studies revealed that this phenomenon was not only associated with the structural and physiological properties of the skin but also to the interactions between drugs and different skin layers. The umbilical pro-permeation is attributed to the thinner stratum corneum layer, differences in stratum corneum lipid composition and keratin structure, and lower levels of intercellular tight junction proteins in the viable epidermis and dermis layer of the skin. Our research indicated that umbilical paste therapy enhanced the transdermal delivery and absorption of drugs by stimulating local blood flow through mast cell activation. Surprisingly, skin temperature modulation and calcitonin gene-related peptide and substance P levels did not appear to significantly affect this process. In conclusion, umbilical drug administration, as a straightforward and non-invasive approach to enhance transdermal drug delivery, presents novel concepts for continued investigation and practical implementation of transdermal drug delivery systems.

Comparison between ammonium formate and ammonium fluoride in the analysis of stratum corneum lipids by reversed phase chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry

Lipids are key constituents of the barrier function in the human stratum corneum (SC), which is the outermost layer of the epidermis and amenable to non-invasive sampling by tape stripping. The three major lipid classes in the SC, i.e., ceramides, fatty acids, and cholesterol, present equimolar concentration. Liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (LCMS) is elective in profiling lipids in the SC in both positive and negative ion modes. Nevertheless, the latter one allows for the simultaneous detection of the three major epidermal components of the SC. Determination of ceramides in the SC poses analytical challenges due to their wide range of structures and concentrations especially in the case of limited sample amounts. Ammonium formate is a commonly used modifier added to the mobile phase to assist ionization. However, it introduces uncertainty in the identification of ceramides when operating in negative ion mode, even with high resolution MS. We tested the advantages of using fluoride in the lipid profiling of SC and unambiguous identification of ceramides subclasses. The use of fluoride enhanced the ionization of ceramides, regardless the specific substructure, solved misidentification issues, and was successfully applied to the simultaneous detection of all three lipid classes in the human SC.

Permeability of Dermatological Solutes through the Short Periodicity Phase of Human Stratum Corneum Lipid Bilayers.

Determining the permeability of drug-like solutes through the densely packed and heterogeneous stratum corneum lipid layer presents a significant challenge. In this study, we employed umbrella sampling with a periodic weighing function applied to the center of mass of the lipid bilayers. Precise umbrella sampling was conducted with an interframe distance of 0.5 Å, spanning from the bilayer center to the water phase, and each frame was simulated for at least 20 ns. Autocorrelation functions, potential of mean force (PMF), and diffusivity profiles were analyzed for six solutes (testosterone, benzene, caffeine, ethanol, mannitol, and histidine). The results revealed that autocorrelations were dependent solely on the medium, whether water or lipid phase. Diffusivity and PMF profiles along the reaction coordinate were influenced by the hydrophilicity of the solute rather than its size. For hydrophobic solutes, the PMF curves exhibited a minimum at the bilayer center, while for hydrophilic solutes, the PMFs peaked at the bilayer center and lipid tails (where the lipid tails are not interacting with the cholesterol). Diffusivity curves were low at the bilayer center and water phase, with peaks observed at the headgroup or the boundary between fatty acid and cholesterol (1 nm from the bilayer center). The quantitative findings presented in this work hold significance for pharmacists and drug designers.

Unraveling the Molecular Mechanisms of Alcohol-Mediated Skin Permeation Enhancement: Insights from Molecular Dynamics Simulations.

The application of alcohols as permeation enhancers in pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations has attracted considerable attention, owing to their skin permeation-enhancing effect. Nonetheless, the elucidation of the fundamental mechanisms underlying the skin permeation-enhancing effect remains elusive. In this study, molecular dynamics (MD) simulations were employed to investigate the effect of 1,2-propanediol (1,2-PDO), 1,2-butanediol (1,2-BDO), and ethanol (EtOH) on the stratum corneum (SC) model membrane. The results showed that the effect of alcohols on the SC model membrane displayed a concentration-dependent nature. The alcohols can interact with SC lipids and exhibit a remarkable ability to selectively extract free fatty acid (FFA) molecules from the SC model membrane and make the SC looser. Meanwhile, 1,2-BDO and EtOH can penetrate into SC lipid bilayers at higher concentrations, leading to the formation of continuous hydrophilic defects in SC. The FFA extraction and the formation of continuous hydrophilic defects induced ceramide (CER) tail chains to become more disordered and fluid and also weakened the hydrogen bonding (H-bonding) network among SC lipids. Both the FFA extraction and the continuous hydrophilic defect formation endowed alcohols with the permeation-enhancing effect. The constrained simulations revealed that the free energy barriers decreased for the permeation of the hydrophilic model molecule (COL) across the SC model membranes containing alcohols, particularly for 1,2-BDO and EtOH. The possible permeation-enhancing mechanisms of alcohols were proposed correspondingly. This work not only provided a deep understanding of the transdermal permeation-enhancing behavior of alcohols at the molecular level but also provided necessary reference information for designing effective transdermal drug delivery systems in applications.

The implications of lipid mobility, drug-enhancers (surfactants)-skin interaction, and TRPV1 activation on licorice flavonoid permeability.

Licorice flavonoids (LFs) are derived from perennial herb licorice and have been attaining a considerable interest in cosmetic and skin ailment treatments. However, some LFs compounds exhibited poor permeation and retention capability, which restricted their application. In this paper, we systematically investigated and compared the enhancement efficacy and mechanisms of different penetration enhancers (surfactants) with distinct lipophilicity or "heat and cool" characteristics on ten LFs compounds. Herein, the aim was to unveil how seven different enhancers modified the stratum corneum (SC) surface and influence the drug-enhancers-skin interaction, and to relate these effects to permeation enhancing effects of ten LFs compounds. The enhancing efficacy was evaluated by enhancement ratio (ER)permeation, ERretention, and ERcom, which was conducted on the porcine skin. It was summarized that heat capsaicin (CaP) and lipophilic Plurol® Oleique CC 497 (POCC) caused the most significance of SC lipid fluidity, SC water loss, and surface structure alterations, thereby resulting in a higher permeation enhancing effects than other enhancers. CaP could completely occupied drug-skin interaction sites in the SC, while POCC only occupied most drug-skin interactions. Moreover, the enhancing efficacy of both POCC and CaP was dependent on the log P values of LFs. For impervious LFs with low drug solubility, enhancing their drug solubility could help them permeate into the SC. For high-permeation LFs, their permeation was inhibited ascribed to the strong drug-enhancer-skin strength in the SC. More importantly, drug-surfactant-skin energy possessed a good negative correlation with the LFs permeation amount for most LFs molecules. Additionally, the activation of transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) could enhance LFs permeation by CaP. The study provided novel insights for drug permeation enhancement from the viewpoint of molecular pharmaceutics, as well as the scientific utilization of different enhancers in topical or transdermal formulations.

Time-Dependent Differences in the Effects of Oleic Acid and Oleyl Alcohol on the Human Skin Barrier.

Oleic acid and oleyl alcohol are commonly used permeation and penetration enhancers to facilitate topical drug delivery. Here, we aimed to better understand the mechanism of their enhancing effects in terms of their interactions with the human skin barrier using diclofenac diethylamine (DIC-DEA), a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug for topical pain management. Oleic acid promoted DIC-DEA permeation through ex vivo human skin more rapidly than oleyl alcohol (both applied at 0.75%) due to fluidization of stratum corneum lipids as revealed by infrared spectroscopy. After 12 h, the effect of these enhancers on DIC-DEA permeation leveled off, fluidization was no longer evident, and skin permeabilization was mainly due to the formation of fluid enhancer-rich domains. Contrary to oleyl alcohol, oleic acid adversely affected two indicators of the skin barrier integrity, transepidermal water loss and skin electrical impedance. The content of oleyl alcohol in the stratum corneum was lower than that of oleic acid (even 12 h after the enhancers were removed from the skin surface), but it caused higher DIC-DEA retention in both epidermis and dermis compared to oleic acid. The effects of oleyl alcohol and oleic acid on DIC-DEA permeation and retention in the skin were similar after a single and repeated application (4 doses every 12 h). Thus, oleyl alcohol offers several advantages over oleic acid for topical drug delivery.

Trajectory of stratum corneum lipid subclasses in the first year of life and associations with atopic dermatitis: A prospective cohort study

AbstractBackgroundTrajectories of stratum corneum (SC) lipid subclasses and their associations with infant atopic dermatitis (AD) are unclear. This study aimed to quantify the trajectories of 15 SC subclasses and carbon chain lengths and their associations with AD within 12 months.MethodsIn total, 213 newborns were enrolled at birth with nonlesional skin samples collected from the inner forearm at birth, 42 days, 3, 6, and 12 months, respectively. Lesional skin samples were collected from 120 AD patients at clinic with the disease onset within the first year of life. Mass spectrometry was applied to assess relative contents of 12 ceramide (CER), three free fatty acid (FFA) subclasses, and average carbon chain length (CCL). AD incident within 1 year old was diagnosed by dermatologists according to UK criteria.ResultsSixty‐four (30.0%) cases of ADs occurred in the cohort. All SC lipid subclasses and CCLs, but EOP varied significantly during the first year. AD infants showed lower NP but higher NS, NH, AP, hydroxy FFA, and CCL of FFAs compared with nonaffected infants. After normalization by age, the differences remained and were more pronounced in lesional skin of clinical AD infants compared with non‐ADs. NS, NH, and CCL of FFAs in lesional skin of AD infants showed positive and significant correlations with the levels of transepidermal water loss at 3 month; some evidence supports a negative correlation for NP.ConclusionsWe provide an overview of developmental trajectories of 15 CER and FFA subclasses across the first year of healthy infants and a link between the imbalance of some subclasses with the development of AD.

Solvent and Crystallization Effects on the Dermal Absorption of Hydrophilic and Lipophilic Compounds

This study probes the mechanisms by which volatile solvents (water, ethanol) and a nonionic surfactant (Triton X-100) influence the skin permeation of dissolved solutes following deposition of small doses onto unoccluded human skin. A secondary objective was to sharpen guidelines for the use of these and other simple solvent systems for dermal safety testing of cosmetic ingredients at finite doses. Four solutes were studied – niacinamide, caffeine, testosterone and geraniol – at doses close to that estimated to saturate the upper layers of the stratum corneum. Methods included tensiometry, visualization of spreading on skin, polarized light microscopy and in vitro permeation testing using radiolabeled solutes. Ethanol, aqueous ethanol and dilute aqueous Triton solutions all yielded surface tensions below 36 mN/m, allowing them to spread easily on the skin, unlike water (72.4 mN/m) which did not spread. Deposition onto skin of niacinamide (32 μg·cm−2) or caffeine (3.2 μg·cm−2) from water and ethanol led to crystalline deposits on the skin surface, whereas the same amounts applied from aqueous ethanol and 2 % Triton did not. Skin permeation of these compounds was inversely correlated to the extent of crystallization. A separate study with caffeine showed the absence of a dose-related skin permeability increase with Triton. Permeation of testosterone (8.2 μg·cm−2) was modestly increased when dosed from aqueous ethanol versus ethanol. Permeation of geraniol (2.9 μg·cm−2) followed the order aqueous ethanol > water ∼ 2 % Triton >> ethanol and was inversely correlated with evaporative loss. We conclude that, under the conditions tested, aqueous ethanol and Triton serve primarily as deposition aids and do not substantially disrupt stratum corneum lipids. Implications for the design of in vitro skin permeability tests are discussed.